# Do you quarantine?



## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

Still gathering data on quarantining. I'd like to know if you quarantine new fish and for how long. 

This is a multiple choice poll. 
If you choose yes, please also select one of the bottom 2 options indicating why you do. 

Feel free to discuss below. 


For me, my answer would be -
No, I don't but have had at least one disease outbreak w/addition of new fish. 

It was ich, and it was most likely from a store that is not my usual LFS, but it was an outbreak nonetheless. Of course I can't be sure as the new additions weren't those that were affected by the ich. 
(Is that usual, or is there a chance the ich was brought on by stress?)

I just got a 10 gallon kit setup with heater and all at Petco for $34. Pretty darn cheap, and I can use it for a fry tank in the future too.


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

magpie said:


> Still gathering data on quarantining.
> 
> I'd like to know if you quarantine new fish and for how long.


A new fish should be quarantined for at least a week in a cycled tank with you other new fish. This guarantees that your fish are healthy when you put them into the permanent tank and will also allow them to get used to your water parameters. This will also allow the fish to calm down after the stressful netting and moving.

Yes you will have to move the fish after the quarantine but it wont be long or far.

That is what I suggest. Many people use their hospital tanks as their quarantine tanks. 

Some species such as Dwarf Gourami that have a known hereditary defect should be kept in quarantine for up to a month to ensure the safety of your OTHER community fish.


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

Follow up question - if the fish come through the quarantine healthy and disease-free, could I scoop them say in a bowl instead of netting them again? If there are no issues, I wonder if adding the water from that tank is a problem?


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

magpie said:


> Follow up question - if the fish come through the quarantine healthy and disease-free, could I scoop them say in a bowl instead of netting them again? If there are no issues, I wonder if adding the water from that tank is a problem?


If the tank is cycled...and you don't have a problem of possibly cross contaminating that would be fine....although wouldn't it be harder to use the bowl to catch the fish? 

That really comes down to you at that point. I always net my fish. I dunno...

I have personally quarantined new fish to a one tank for almost a week or two. The only fish I wont be able to quarantine is my next fish which is going to be a BOlivian Ram because I am not using my hospital tank as a fry tank :/.


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

It might be harder! I just hate the thought of netting them a couple of times in fairly quick succession... but maybe it doesn't really matter.


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## Tazman (Jan 15, 2012)

Best practice if the tank and QT tank are the same water parameters and no medication has been used,is to net them and get them in the display tank as soon as the QT period is over....adding them to the tank with the lights off and at night may help to acclimate better if the tank is already stocked.

Quarantine should last 3-4 weeks as it can take that long for diseases to show up sometimes, shorter time and you risk contaminating the main display tank if the fish has an illness which has not shown up yet.


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

Thanks, yes, I normally add new fish with lights off all day until the following day, no matter what time of day I add them.


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

magpie said:


> Thanks, yes, I normally add new fish with lights off all day until the following day, no matter what time of day I add them.


I have never done this before. turning the lights off when I add fish. Great suggestion. I shall do this when adding my new Ram.

Thanks to the both of you for the information.


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

Yes, I think it helps both because the fish is less stressed in the dark environment, but also the other fish can't see it as well so are less likely to bother it, even if they're just curious and not aggressive. 

It's hard, though, because you want to see them better! But for the good of the fish I restrain myself.


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## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

I've never quarantined before, but I would like to start. It's been mainly because of lack of space, but I'm sure I set up a ten gallon QT tank. Any advice?


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

Jayy said:


> I've never quarantined before, but I would like to start. It's been mainly because of lack of space, but I'm sure I set up a ten gallon QT tank. Any advice?


Plants....nice lovely plants lol.


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## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

Termato said:


> Plants....nice lovely plants lol.


Do they help in the progress?


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

Jayy said:


> Do they help in the progress?


They provide algae as extra food for the fish (the extra algae that will grow on their leaves...not problematic if you keep the lights on normally). Plants are good for cover from light. The plants will also help soak up any extra ammonia created from the stressed fish. The fish will be extra stressed from being moved so it will secrete more ammonia. I just find plants to be a beneficial addition to every tank in all possible ways. The plants will also help decompose the waste produced by the fish. All in all...good choice IMO.


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## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

Termato said:


> They provide algae as extra food for the fish (the extra algae that will grow on their leaves...not problematic if you keep the lights on normally). Plants are good for cover from light. The plants will also help soak up any extra ammonia created from the stressed fish. The fish will be extra stressed from being moved so it will secrete more ammonia. I just find plants to be a beneficial addition to every tank in all possible ways. The plants will also help decompose the waste produced by the fish. All in all...good choice IMO.


 Okay I'm doing all planted tanks anyway. Would it be better bare bottom or with substrate?


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

I was told to do bare-bottom so that you can see how the poop looks.

Because of that, I was thinking of doing fake plants for the water column, but then use some floating plants from my large tank. They'd help fish feel more secure, and help with possible ammonia. 

But I dunno...


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

Jayy said:


> Okay I'm doing all planted tanks anyway. Would it be better bare bottom or with substrate?


IMO I would say 100% go Substrate.

Sand is best if you don't want to go the mother nature route of soil. 

Sand Gravel works GREAT too. they are small enough pebbles that it is not a problem.

If you don't want sand...go gravel...although sand is harder to clean it is better for bacteria. 

All my tanks are gravel or small gravel. I don't like dealing with sand. Maybe if I get a bigger tank in the future I will def do that. Gravel is just easier for me to maintain now because I don't have as much time. 

The type substrate comes down more to a personal opinion and needs, but I do recommend you use some kind of substrate.



magpie said:


> I was told to do bare-bottom so that you can see how the poop looks.
> 
> Because of that, I was thinking of doing fake plants for the water column, but then use some floating plants from my large tank. They'd help fish feel more secure, and help with possible ammonia.
> 
> But I dunno...


You can use white sand for this. Works great. Black Sand works well too. Any color that isn't brown.


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## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

Termato said:


> IMO I would say 100% go Substrate.
> 
> Sand is best if you don't want to go the mother nature route of soil.
> 
> ...


Ok, I've worked with sand before, I like it. I want to use it in all or most of my tanks. I'm currently using it in my 55 planted.


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

But with some diseases, they get white stringy poop, so I think you'd miss that with white sand... 

I agree, I really like the sand-type gravel where it is very fine, and I use that. But that's for my larger tank. I've read time and time again to go without substrate for Q tanks... but would love to hear your reasoning for substrate in one. Or is it just to hold plants down? If you want live plants in a Q tank, you could always do java fern or anubias tied with thread to rocks or other decor...


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

magpie said:


> But with some diseases, they get white stringy poop, so I think you'd miss that with white sand...
> 
> I agree, I really like the sand-type gravel where it is very fine, and I use that. But that's for my larger tank. I've read time and time again to go without substrate for Q tanks... but would love to hear your reasoning for substrate in one. Or is it just to hold plants down? If you want live plants in a Q tank, you could always do java fern or anubias tied with thread to rocks or other decor...


Good point. You could always try black then. That always makes colors pop instead of making your tank look super bright.

You can also use floating plants if you go bare bottom.

The main reason I suggested substrate was for the plants. Also dark substrate provide a dimmer environment creating a more relaxed area for the fish. Without a substrate light reflects off of glass. With white sand...well its even worse...this is another main reason. These are the only two main plusses I can think of. With a bright new environment...fish can be stressed. Dimmer substrate will help this. ESPECIALLY black.

The substrate will give you more option on what plants you can have as well.

---




Byron said:


> *A Basic Approach to the Natural Planted Aquarium—Part One*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/aquarium-plants/basic-approach-natural-planted-aquarium-part-34861/


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## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

Hey guys, just wanted to add a little tip about QT. Always make sure the tank fits the fish. I'm going to be adding another goldfish to my school and will need to QT it because I don't have a reliable dealer anywhere near, but I can't use a regular 10 gal tank simply because it's very hard to keep a goldfish in one (swimming room, waste, ect). I have secured a 30 gal tub to use. It will be large enough to easily hold a goldfish for the extended period of quarantine. This doesn't apply to small schooling fish that could normally be housed in a 10 gal, but for something like the larger cichlids or catfish, this is going to have a large effect on the fish. Too small of an environment will stress the fish. And we all know stress = disease. 

You guys have already made wonderful points about plants and cover, but I wouldn't use live plants as a lot of medications affect live plants, too. Fake plants provide the same cover, but without the worry of having to remove them if medications are need to be used.


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## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

thekoimaiden said:


> Hey guys, just wanted to add a little tip about QT. Always make sure the tank fits the fish. I'm going to be adding another goldfish to my school and will need to QT it because I don't have a reliable dealer anywhere near, but I can't use a regular 10 gal tank simply because it's very hard to keep a goldfish in one (swimming room, waste, ect). I have secured a 30 gal tub to use. It will be large enough to easily hold a goldfish for the extended period of quarantine. This doesn't apply to small schooling fish that could normally be housed in a 10 gal, but for something like the larger cichlids or catfish, this is going to have a large effect on the fish. Too small of an environment will stress the fish. And we all know stress = disease.
> 
> You guys have already made wonderful points about plants and cover, but I wouldn't use live plants as a lot of medications affect live plants, too. Fake plants provide the same cover, but without the worry of having to remove them if medications are need to be used.


I keep small fish, soo 10gal is fine for me. Good point on the meds, I'll go fake for the QT tank.


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## Adamson (Feb 5, 2012)

I keep additional filters on my main tanks so I can move one to my hospital when I get new fish or need to medicate one.


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## Geomancer (Aug 23, 2010)

Well... reading comments here are some things to consider.

1) In regards to substrate and bacteria ... you won't have any (much). You will likely not quarantine fish long enough for any substrate to get colonized by the beneficial bacteria (This takes 4-8 weeks remember). When not in use, the QT will be empty and cleaned. Any bacteria gained will be lost. Cleaning the tank after use, particularly if medications were used, will be much more difficult with substrate.

2) Plants. If you have a main display tank with plants ... you already have a source of them, so taking cuttings and putting them in the QT isn't going to cost you anything, and if meds need to be used and they affect the plants no big deal, you just toss them in the trash when done.

In addition, floating and stem plants, which are the fast growing types and thus remove the most ammonia, don't need a substrate. You can use plant weights to keep stem plants upright and prevent them from floating around if you like.

3) The most important thing about a QT tank is filtration. Since it sits empty there is no bacteria at all, you really need to avoid the ammonia/nitrite spikes as much as possible as with any new tank. Seeding from an established tank is a must. In another thread it was discussed that you should keep a sponge filter within the main tank (dosen't have to be running) at all times so that it is fully colonized and ready to go in a QT. You can use other filter media as well if you use a different filter on the QT. If medications are required in the QT, deep clean the filter media or dispose of it then place it in the main tank to be re-colonized (remember, it will take a couple weeks to recolonize).

If no meds are needed in the QT, you can just move the filter media right back into the main tank so it is ready to go for the next time.

Live plants, of course, also help particularly fast growing types.


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## jeaninel (Aug 24, 2007)

Yes, I always QT new fish for at least 3-4 weeks. I've kept fish for over 15 years and had always just added new fish right to my tank. But I started QTing a few years ago when I had some Congo tetra bring in columnaris and I lost 2 Congos and some of the other fish got sick but recovered. It's much easier to catch any potential problems and treat it in a smaller tank rather than in your larger display, especially if you have to treat with an antibiotic... which can get kind of expensive to treat a large tank.


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## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

substrate may make cleaning poop up more difficult and some diseases may have an easier time reproducing in them. go bare bottom in a QT / hospital tank. this will also make any un-eaten food easier to siphon out. which a QT is a perfect time to watch eating patterns, visible health and appearances ( how does it swim, how does it eat, lathargic, swimming sideways and so on.. ) 
try using a few joint pieces of PVC in your QT. the are very easy to clean if need be but provide good cover for stressed fish. buy an extra net or two strickly for QT use, always make sure to use this net on this tank only. it may also be a good idea to buy some clear tubing at the hardware store while getting a few pieces of PVC to use as your siphon to use only for your QT. this is to help prevent any cross contaminations ( sp? ) 
a small hang on filter or sponge filter thats been seeded from the display is the way to go. a few fake plastic plants wouldnt hurt but real ones may be killed from certain medicines. a heater dedicated to the QT is another must. 
i would suggest using the QT for at minimum a month but more like 2+ months to be completely effective. i know for saltwater disease can come in undetected on fish gills and not show up for atleast a few weeks. i dont see why that couldnt also apply to a freshwater fish. i suppose this can also depend species and where it was located from( the local breeder prob. wont have [m]any fish diseases compared to a wild caught specimen from across the globe, and i still would QT either way )


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## magpie (Nov 7, 2011)

Thanks for the input, all!


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## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

Yea I was just doing some more research about the substrate and i now agree I think it is best to go with out substrate for quarantine.


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## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

Ok, for a QT tank, no substrate or real plants and a very good filter.


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