# Suggestions for stocking 55g tank?



## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi, I'm new to this forum and im seeking advice for my 29g tank. i also have a few questions which i'd like to address in this thread while im at it. 

1. I plan to have cacomba plants in the tank, Once they root themselves how to I clean the tank/change water?

2. For filtration I'm looking at buying the Emperor Power Filter 280 ( Emperor 280 Power Filter) What do ya'll think of this, i am going to be upgrading to a 50g tank within the next 6-8 months. I have read reviews of this being quite loud, any opinions? This aquarium will be in my bedroom so I'd like something quiet, If ya'll know of a quiet filter that can get the job done let me know!!

3. As stated in the first part of this post, I am looking for a stock list for fish. I'd like something bright and eye catching. I was thinking of having some cichlids but im not familiar with them so im kinda hesitant. Once I get the 50g tank I'd like to have some schooling fish, maybe some black neon tetras, neon tetras, along with a few decent sized fish (3"-4") 

Thats it for now. please let me know some answers


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## aunt kymmie (Jun 2, 2008)

Hi Andrew, welcome to the forum! I love a planted tank but with most cichlids you won't be able to do that as they will tear them up. I love the dwarf cichlids (rams to be exact) and they don't touch my plants. In a 29gl you have alot of options for schooling fish. Do you know the ph of the water you'll be using? I use straight tap and it's 7.8. Ph will determine which fish will do best as far as your natural water parameters. 
I also have cabomba in my tank. When doing water changes you move the gravel vac around them. 
Can't comment on the filters as I'm only familiar with the noise mine make. If my tank was in my bedroom I'd never sleep with the noise they make!


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## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

Welcome to the forum!
Yes, The Emperor is a great filter, but a little noise. If you are looking for a good quite filter, you may want to consider an aqua clear.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

for fish im thinking about some neon tetras or something of that sort. a schooling fish. would neon tetras and black neon tetras get along? im going to make it a planted tank but with enough room for them to swim, any input is appreciated as im new to the matching thing. I've always just had guppies and neon tetras, lol


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

A few updates. I've decided to go with a planted tank and schooling fish.. My fiance bought me the Emperor 280 and I tested her out for about 5 minutes. I don't have the aquarium in place or setup but I just couldnt resist testing out the Emperor!! Let me tell you it was pretty darn quiet! I was very happy with the noise level of it. Now I will have to wait and see how it does as far as filtering and what not. I'm gonna start working on the tank sometime this coming week. I've decided on Cardinal and Neon tetras with some green corys. a medium sized driftwood as the focal point for the aquascaping and alot of plants! updates coming soon so stay posted


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Congrats on your new tank. The Emperor 280 will be plenty of filtration for your tank. I would encourage you to research information on setting up a new tank either here, or by googling elsewhere. Specifically the Nitrification process that needs to happen before placing fish in the new aquarium. I would also encourage you to purchase a Quality test kit that uses drops of liquid rather than the test strips that are not all that accurate. The test strips will give you a ball park idea of water parameters ,but the API Freshwater Master Kit is the choice of many and will last longer than the strips. With the test ,you can determine what pH value your water that comes from your tap is. This will help you determine what fish will do best in your water.For example.. Cardinal Tetras, need soft rather warm water, with pH values of no higer than 6.8 in order for them to thrive. The Neons would also adapt to the soft water but need cooler temperatures than the cardinals would appreciate. I recommend researching the fish that interest you, and once you determine what your water is like ,then you will be able to stock fish best suited to that enviornment. Fish that are uncomfortable ,become stessed and often this leads to sickness. Not something one want's to subject themselves ,or the fish to if possible to avoid. Folks here will be happy to help you set up your tank properly with the least amount of frustration or fish losses.;-)


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

In addition to previous post.. Were it me, (and it ain't) I would get the planted tank established with proper plant substrate. Gravel can work as well but will require some fetilizers or nutrients to be added on consistent basis. I would perhaps start with some easy low to moderate light plants unless you decide to go with cO2 and upgrade the lighting from that which usually comes with new tank kits. By getting the plants established, the fish will feel more comfortable(cardinals.neons) and the water parameters will be easier to maintain. All kind of creatures and micro organisims begin to appear in planted tanks many of which fish enjoy snacking on and you have the added benefit of plants being excellent at filtering the water by using up considerable waste from fish for growth.
Sadly, My brief dabbling in the planted tank world has been dissapointing but we have a few members here who are quite accomplished in that area and they too would be willing to help. Good Luck and don't be afraid to ask questions.;-)


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Thanks for the help and information. Yeah I plan on letting my fish tank cycle for atleast 1 whole week before anthing is added to it. for substrate im gonna go with Aqua Soil Amazon I. As plants I'm going with cabomba, dwarf baby tears, and a few other small plants.


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## NC Frank (Aug 24, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Thanks for the help and information. Yeah I plan on letting my fish tank cycle for atleast 1 whole week before anthing is added to it. for substrate im gonna go with Aqua Soil Amazon I. As plants I'm going with cabomba, dwarf baby tears, and a few other small plants.


Proper cycling will take much longer than a week. The best advice that anybody can give people new to the hobby is to properly cycle your tank and to properly maintain your tank (filer maintenance, scheduled water changes, scheduled surface gravel cleaning, constant water parameter tests, etc.)


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Cabomba is not the easy plant to keep alive and healthy. Being a stem plant, it is a fast grower which means it needs more light and nutrients than slower-growing plants such as most of the rooted plants. What type of light do you have on this tank? Be specific--assuming it's fluorescent, how many tubes, what length, and what type and wattage (this is indicated at one end of the tube). I can offer suggestions once I know this.

If you intend on having a planted tank, the plants will cycle the tank immediately for you. I can explain this further as well.

Byron.


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## Guppyluver4ever (May 19, 2009)

THATS SO FUNNY, I HAVE GUPPIES AND NEON TETRAS, and a few other livebearers but... ANyway i think stick with what you know best, get some black neons, neon tetras, some guppies and if you want some platies, swordtails, mollies. Just keep in mind to try and stick to all males, or you'll have a school of TINY fry of all species ;-)


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## NC Frank (Aug 24, 2009)

Byron said:


> If you intend on having a planted tank, the plants will cycle the tank immediately for you. I can explain this further as well.
> 
> Byron.


I have seen you say this before and I certainly defer to your experience as while I have kept fish for my entire life I only recently delved into planted tanks... I have had planted tanks that experienced mild to mid range cases of new tank syndrome. Unless he is seeding or introducing some bacteria wouldn't the initial ammonia spike be too much for a planted tank to handle?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

NC Frank said:


> I have seen you say this before and I certainly defer to your experience as while I have kept fish for my entire life I only recently delved into planted tanks... I have had planted tanks that experienced mild to mid range cases of new tank syndrome. Unless he is seeding or introducing some bacteria wouldn't the initial ammonia spike be too much for a planted tank to handle?


First, there have to be a lot of plants. I don't mean a thick jungle, but a couple of plants in a 29g tank won't do it. Second, only add a few fish on day one and then add more after a few days. If it is also possible to seed the tank with bacteria, I would do so as an extra, so to speak. I have set up several aquaria this way and there is never anything above zero for ammonia and nitrite, from the first day. Now, I can't say whether this is all due to the plants, or the bacteria [and I have used biological supplements for this, Seachem's Stability most recently, plus bacteria on the plant leaves and wood moved from existing tanks], or both.

In her book, _Ecology of the Planted Aquarium, _Diana Walstad mentions that she always sets up a new aquarium by planting it and adding fish the first day, and never has a "cycle" or new tank syndrome. This has certainly been my experience. I used to attribute it to the biological supplements, but after more recently reading Ms. Walstad I believe the plants are doing the major job. I can't cite the book, but here's a link to an article that is largely excerpted from her book:
Aqua Botanic - Plants and biological filtration

From my own experience, in 1998 I had reason to thoroughly clean my 115g setup due to an unknown toxic substance that was determined to be leeching from one or two pieces of wood and had over a few weeks been slowly killing the fish. I moved the 90 lethargic stressed-out fish to my spare 33g tank and drained the 115g, thoroughly cleaned the gravel in hot, hot tap water (killing any bacteria to be sure), washing the plant leaves as best I could, and completely replacing the filter media (no bacteria there). I filled the tank, planted it, and moved the fish back in. All in one day. I dosed the tank with Cycle. Not one fish loss, no ammonia, no nitrite...I thought at the time the Cycle was doing it, but now I realize it may have been more the plants.

In early July I set up my (empty) 115g. Fresh gravel, new filter and media. I filled the tank on day one, moved over the plants and some wood from the existing 90g, and moved all 112 fish the next day. I used "Stability" as a back-up. Again, no ammonia, no nitrite, no fish losses. Later that week, I did the same with the 90g/70g.

As Ms. Walstad mentions, in a planted tank the plants are performing much greater biological filtration than the bacteria, because the plants are quicker at grabbing the ammonium (from ammonia and nitrite) than are the bacteria. And in acidic water, such as I have out of my tap, nitrosomonas bacteria are said to be inhibited in their growth, and at a pH of 6 or lower they stop completely. Back in 1998 when I did the emergency re-set of the 115g, I had tap water at pH 5.5, so it is quite possible that there could have been very little if any bacteria handling the ammonia/ammonium in that re-set tank even with a biological supplement. Plants are nature's filters, and they certanly seem to know how to do it.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi Guys, a little update. I bought a peice of wood from petco today, It is the "Zoo Med Natural Mopani Wood" medium size. Im planning to use Amazon I For my substrate, being that I have heard quite a few good things about it. I want to start out with some of the easier plants to take care of (any recommendations are appreciated) and a few schooling fish, would 9-11 be overstocking the 29g tank? I've always known the rull of thumb is 1inch for 1g. my mopani wood is currently soaking in water, which I will be changing daily for about a week, or as long as needed to complete the leeching process. Sorry if i am kind of needy right now, i've never had anything of this magnitude before.. just 10g aquariums with guppies and neon tetras.. also, is it ok to put a female betta in the aquarium with the neons? i have one in a 1.7g hex aquarium and i'd like to have her in my 29g if possible.. Also what do I put in the extra media cartridge for the emperor 280? carbon i'd assume? thanks fellas, also directing me to any links for plant care and info for newbs would be much appreciated. thanks ff readers


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I'm not sure what im going to use for lighting, and also im assuming i need an air pump and stone correct? I've seen reviews of mopani wood being very bad about tannin leeching for a long time, some said even up to a year?!? one person said to let it sit in boiling hot water atleast 3-4 times and it would drastically reduce the leeching process throughout.. what air pump would ya'll go with, isaw one at petsmart that was an aquaclear for 30g aquariums.


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

You can't really rely on that rule. There are many factors. And it depends on what kinda of fish. Larger schooling fish, such as Australian Rainbows, you couldn't do that many because they average to be 4". Something such as Neon Teras, or hatchet fish, now problem 9 to 11 works. You could also try 6 or so hatchet fish, and 6 or so Neon Tetras. Both come from the same water ways, thus will have similar water requirements.

There are many factors that affect the bioload you can put. If you have a larger than needed filter, and do weekly water changes and have a planted tank (as you do), you can fit a few more fish do to the increase filtration, both mechanical and natural (plants). 

And yes, let the wood sit in warm/boiling water for a week or two, and then most should be leeched. The tanins are actually not harmful to the fish, in fact, it occurs naturally in the Amazon.

And don't apologize for being needy. We've all been there, and its better that your asking questions. Shows you actually care about the hobby, and thats what we are about.
Also, looking forward to seeing this tank progress, make sure you take your time and get the information before you act. Which is what you are doing by being here. Saves time, and more importantly, money. =)


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

andrewr2488 said:


> Hi Guys, a little update. I bought a peice of wood from petco today, It is the "Zoo Med Natural Mopani Wood" medium size. Im planning to use Amazon I For my substrate, being that I have heard quite a few good things about it. I want to start out with some of the easier plants to take care of (any recommendations are appreciated) and a few schooling fish, would 9-11 be overstocking the 29g tank? I've always known the rull of thumb is 1inch for 1g. my mopani wood is currently soaking in water, which I will be changing daily for about a week, or as long as needed to complete the leeching process. Sorry if i am kind of needy right now, i've never had anything of this magnitude before.. just 10g aquariums with guppies and neon tetras.. also, is it ok to put a female betta in the aquarium with the neons? i have one in a 1.7g hex aquarium and i'd like to have her in my 29g if possible.. Also what do I put in the extra media cartridge for the emperor 280? carbon i'd assume? thanks fellas, also directing me to any links for plant care and info for newbs would be much appreciated. thanks ff readers


Rather than carbon in the extra media cartridge, I would (were it me),, Consider biological media such as ceramic rings,Eheim Ehfisubstrat Pro,or Eheim Ehfilav. All are good at providing extra biological filtration by creating more surface area for bacteria to colonize. They also do a fair job of trapping suspended particulates.
Carbon, in my view should be avoided. It is very good at removing unwanted substances from the water but it will also remove a fair share of nutrients needed by the plants for growth.
I would not add a air stone or pump that would drive off precious Co2 through surface agitation and I would see that the water level in the aquarium was such that the water returning from your filter is below the surface of the water.
Byron perhaps can explain the aspects regarding Co2 much better than I but I believe most planted tank folks would agree with me that without Co2 injection, You want to avoid surface agitation as much as is possible. Opinions vary.
You may wish to consider not using carbon at aoll with the filter but rather using some filter floss cut to fit the opening in the filter or by slitting the blue Rite Size E cartridge open and dumping out the carbon. I believe plants would do much better without the use of carbon or at least they did for me during my brief planted tank expieriments.
I began with plants like Valisneria,Java fern attached to wood with thread,Anubia ,Water sprite, Crypt,and Amazon Sword (not Brazilian). Were it me, (and it ain't) I would have at least three inches of Substrate for rooted plants. Hope some of this helps.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I second the advice from both Arkamaic and 1077.

Filtration in a planted tank should be limited to mechanical to clear the water. The plants do the cleaning aspect of filtration better than any filter we can use. Not using carbon and such materials in the mechanical filter does this, because as 1077 mentioned these substances are chemical filtration that alter the water chemistry by removing needed nutrients or adding stuff that shouldn't be there because it inhibits the plants. And the less movement, particularly at the surface, the better. CO2 comes from the fish (and certain biological processes in the aquarium) and it is not in abundance so you don't want to drive it out of the aquarum by creating fast water flows and surface disturbance; this creates gas exchange at the surface, where CO2 is expelled and oxygen is pulled n to the water. But the plants take in CO2 and expel oxygen during photosynthesis, and far more oxygen is produced by plants than could otherwise be matched. So we let them get on with their job.

You will need good lighting, the single most important aspect of a planted tank. Full spectrum (rated around 6500K) is the best. We can discuss specific tubes when you're ready. What light fixture do you have? There are some options, and your choice will determine what type of tubes you can have (T5 or the regular, one or two tubes).

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I will take pictures of all of the things i have so far, and get ya'lls opinions, and yes arkamaic i do enjoy and care about this hobby, i dont want fish dying for no reason. i believe taking your time and doing things right is the ONLY way to do things, i'm that way about all things in my life. Byron, I'm not sure what fixture i have, its a single bulb fixture but i'll look into it.. this aquarium was originally used to house my 3 baby res but they were released into my cousins new stock pond. i bought the complete package at petsmart, its the 29g Top Fin kit. i scrapped the 30g topfin filter in favor of the emperor 280. I bought the api master test kit, but i forgot it at my gf house which is 30 miles away lol. im gettin it tomorrow from her. thanks for ya'lls help, i appreciate ya'lls time!


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> I will take pictures of all of the things i have so far, and get ya'lls opinions, and yes arkamaic i do enjoy and care about this hobby, i dont want fish dying for no reason. i believe taking your time and doing things right is the ONLY way to do things, i'm that way about all things in my life. Byron, I'm not sure what fixture i have, its a single bulb fixture but i'll look into it.. this aquarium was originally used to house my 3 baby res but they were released into my cousins new stock pond. i bought the complete package at petsmart, its the 29g Top Fin kit. i scrapped the 30g topfin filter in favor of the emperor 280. I bought the api master test kit, but i forgot it at my gf house which is 30 miles away lol. im gettin it tomorrow from her. thanks for ya'lls help, i appreciate ya'lls time!


Sounds like its fluorescent with one tube. That is OK. You'll need to know if it's regular (T8 or T12) or T5; the new tube will be whichever and they won't fit alternatively. B.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

hey guys, i found a 50g aquarium with a wooden stand, its 75bucks on craigslist, should i get it? i called about it and im gonna check it out tommorow. i'd really like to have the bigger aquarium but im not sure if its going to effect the difficulty of the aquarium plans, i know it will be more expensive ( more substrate, more water, bigger filter, lights, ect) but im up for that part. i am confident that with ya'lls continued help i will have no problems


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

If it looks good, and you're up for it, go for it. Got any pics of it ATM?? It really shouldn't change the plans much, if at all.

I wish I had a bigger FW tank, I got a 16 gallon, which I'm starting to get back into. (got into the salt water realm of the hobby  ) It gives you more stocking options, plus more options for your aquascaping as well. It'l just take more of your time during your scheduled maintenance (as you know =))


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

yeah, my gf bought me the emperor 280 filter the other day as previously posted, if i get the 50g im gonna return it for the emperor 400. might go back and get another peice of small mopani to consume more space of the larger aquarium. what do you recommend for the filter media? one of you said just to empty the e size cartridge and use the blue part of the filter with no carbon? ill be making a trip to a few different pet stores on friday so im making a list of things needed.


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## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

For my emperor 400, I have bought filter media from Dr Fosters, they come with clam shell frames. The frames are great for putting together your own media. Aquarium Filter Media: Drs. Foster & Smith Bio3 Emperor 280 and 400 Filter Cartridges

Sometimes I buy the bonded blue pads to fill the clam shell frame, you can find that for cheap in bulk on Ebay. I also use Polly fill batting from Walmart. You can buy queen size batting at Walmart and it last a long time. If you go that route, buy the cheap stuff with no chemicals added. (not flame retardant)


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

twistersmom- So you just trim the batting to the size needed, And simply clamp it in between the clam shell frame? Nothing in between there? Not questioning, Just making sure i am not missing anything. I can go to wal mart tomorrow and pick up some batting if thats the case, then order the frame. On the website you linked me to can you get 2 frames? Because the 400 takes 2 filter cartridges right, One on each side?

Byron- I'm more than likely buying the 50g tank tomorrow if everything looks good on it, Im not exactly sure if it does or doesn't come with the lighting and top. if not, what would you suggest?

Arkamaic- Yeah if everything does check out good, I'm def. going to be getting the 50g setup. I'm going with Eco-Complete Substrate. I believe I read somewhere on the forum that theres a website that has a calculator that tells you how much susbrate you'd need to buy. I do have pictures of my current things. My 29g, the 280 Filter, And Mopani.. If i get the 50 im going to go look into antother small peice of mopani for added decor, since its a 50g im planning to take more time to learn about things. When putting that much money into something, I want it to be correct on the first attempt.



I'm hooked on the cardinal tetra look. what else could I introduce into my 50g aquarium. I've decided on a "theme, african river." Ya'll have already pre-warned me that cichlids would bother with my plants, so what else is out there that can co-exist with cardinal tetras?


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

Do you mean and Amazon based theme? As Cardinals are from the Amazon Basin.

But as for good fish to company them, hatchetfish are pretty cool. Corydoras are always nice too, there are many types of these, some pretty, and some not so much, IMO. There are other types of tetras as well, such as rummy nose tetras.You could possibly try a pair of Blue Rams, tho, some caution may be needed when placing them with smaller tetras, they are known to eat them, but cardinals should be OK. The Rams are a cichlid, but known as a "New-World" Cichlid, meaning they are smaller (rams grow to about 2"-3"), and less aggressive towards non-cichlids.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

ok, I think for now im going to stick with about 7 cardinal tetras.. i love schooling fish, maybe adding 1 or 2 of the smaller cichlids wouldnt be bad after about a month of having the tank established.


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## jeaninel (Aug 24, 2007)

I have a Emperor 280 on my 37 gallon. I do the same as Twistersmom and use quilt batting from Walmart in the clamshell frame. It comes in a roll and I just cut it to size and put a couple layers in the clamshell. It lasts quite awhile. Just rinse it in tank water when it gets dirty and when it get really dirty just cut some new pieces. I also use a foam sponge in the filter. It's for a Rena Filstar cannister filter but fits nicely into the Emperor slot. So I have the sponge first, then the clamshell with the batting, then, of course, the biowheel. Here's a link for the sponge: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals FilStar Foam 30


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## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

andrewr2488 said:


> twistersmom- So you just trim the batting to the size needed, And simply clamp it in between the clam shell frame? Nothing in between there? Not questioning, Just making sure i am not missing anything. I can go to wal mart tomorrow and pick up some batting if thats the case, then order the frame. On the website you linked me to can you get 2 frames? Because the 400 takes 2 filter cartridges right, One on each.


Thats how I do it.
I think if you buy the large size box, it comes with two frames. Think the small boxes only come with one frame. Its been a while since I have ordered any, so you may want to call Fosters to make sure.

The media kit will come with some sponges that fit in side the clam shell. I use mine for extra bio support and only clean them in removed tank water. I do not run carbon, so I use 4 clam shell frames in the Emperor.

If you do not want buy 4 frames, jeaninel sponge would work well.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> twistersmom- So you just trim the batting to the size needed, And simply clamp it in between the clam shell frame? Nothing in between there? Not questioning, Just making sure i am not missing anything. I can go to wal mart tomorrow and pick up some batting if thats the case, then order the frame. On the website you linked me to can you get 2 frames? Because the 400 takes 2 filter cartridges right, One on each side?
> 
> Byron- I'm more than likely buying the 50g tank tomorrow if everything looks good on it, Im not exactly sure if it does or doesn't come with the lighting and top. if not, what would you suggest?
> 
> ...


First comment on filters. Assuming this will be a planted tank (cardinals and similar fish should always be in planted aquaria and you've mentioned eco-complete substrate) and assuming you intend to exchange your filter, I would strongly recommend a canister filter. In a planted tank you want minimal water movement, and canisters are better for controlling the water movement/current, as well as providing compartments for media if that should be required. Also, in planted aquaria, the only media you need is stuff that removes particulate matter from the water column, especially pads. No carbon or other chemical media. Plants clean the water; the filter simply moves it around and clears it.

To the light, on a 50g you should aim for either one tube T5 HO fluorescent or two tubes regular fluorescent. Any fixture will basically work, decide which you want because the tubes are not interchangeable. Tank hoods almost never come with suitable lighting, so a better option is for a glass cover and light fixture. As for tubes, with one tube the Life-Glo 2 full spectrum 6700K is the best for plant growth (high in the blue and red) and appearance (green to balance for a natural colour of fish and plants). Comparable tubes are probably available, but I'm not sure about T5. If you go with the dual-tube regular, Life-Glo 2 or Zoo Med's Ultra Sun 6700K or Phillips Daylight Deluxe 6500K are comparable.

One comment on the eco-complete; no problem, but it is expensive (more than regular gravel) and not necessary. I won't get into all this now, but regular small-grain gravel that is neutral/dark in colour works best for plants and the type of fish you are considering.

Arkamaic has responded to the fish question. With cardinals I'm assuming you will have soft slightly acidic water [cardinals do not last in hard water] and good companions are any of the dwarf cichlids from SA (Apistogramma species, Dicrossus species, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi or M. altispinosa). M. ramirezi must have warm water (above 80F) and cardinals do well with that. This will limit other companion fish; many of the Corydoras do not fare well in warm water, C. sterbai is one species that does tolerate warmth, but most are healthier at 77-78F and that is too cold for the Blue Ram. The Bolivian Ram is fine, very adaptable to differing water parameters provided they are stable. Countless species of characins would work with cardinals and dwarf cichlids. On the latter, a trio (one male, two females) works best with the Apistogramma species. Males establish territories, and these can be defined by bogwood, rock or plants.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Ay Yi Yi... I went to day and swapped the 280 out for the 400.. should I swap them yet again for a better filter? i was thinking about a rena external filter. would the 400 work assuming i did what twistersmom said with the batting? I got my test kit from the gf's house today, im going to test out my water now, but im going to have two peices of mopani wood in the aquarium, a medium and small peice. how much will that effect the pH of my water. also will i need to add any drops of the water treatment or anything? i saw a CO2 machiine at petco, it was 34 bucks, should i need to buy that? ill let ya'll know about the water in a few minutes.

My Readings:
pH - 7.6
NH3/NH4+ (Ammonia) - 0.50
NO2- (Nitrite) - 0 ppm (mgL)
NO3- (Nitrate) - 0ppm (mgL)

These results were all done from the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. I used my regular tap water from the kitchen sink. This testing kit is fun, its like being back in hs lol. Now that I have posted that ya'll will probably be able to better diagnose my situation as far as what fish would be best for my water, what plants, and ect. Thanks, I really appreciate you guys helping out a newb to the hobby. :-D

EDIT: One more question!! The new aquarium I bought was previously used as a saltwater aquarium, it has some white build-up on the sides ( hardwater i'd assume??) whats the best way to remove that? I've tried CLR with a small kitchen scrub brush and it did work to a point. I did that on my 29g tank, But there was still a slightly visible "stain" so I'm not sure as to how I'd remove it completely, I've though about CLR and a scotch brite pad? maybe one of those metal sponge type things would do a better job, then finish it off with the scotch pad. Ideas anyone?


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

I would recommend keeping neon tetras rather than cardinal tetras considering the pH you posted from tapwater? I would also recommend a full function water conditioner such as PRIME to be added to new water that you add to the aquarium whenever water changes are performed. In my view, the effects of driftwood at lowering the ph are slow to negligible due to water changes that will need to be performed on regular basis to ensure the health of the fish. Over time.(months) the natural chemistry in aquariums will tend to lower alkalinity and ph level may become closer to neutral than what you have now. Driftwood will help ,but in my view the results are negligible in that regard ,for any appreciable lowering of the pH in most tanks with alkaline water as opposed to soft water.
Until recently ,I ran an Emperor 280 on a 29 gal tank with sand substrate and live plants such as crypt,java fern,and anubia without issues. I kept the water level just above the plastic trim around the top of the tank so that the water 's surface was disturbed as little as possible considering the filter I had. I also utilized root tabs monthly.
Byron is much more expierienced with planted tanks and judging from photos of his tanks, I would follow his advice closely with regards to filtration if plants are your main focus. Once the plants are established,,then we can further discuss fish for your particular tank.
Too many people in my view want the planted tank and fish nearly overnight and in my expierience,,they often become frustrated when one or the other doesn't quite go the way they think it should.Were it me.(and it ain't) I would train all my efforts on getting the plants established while also researching the fish that I was interested in . The plants,once eastablished,, will make stocking the tank much less stressful for both you and the fish. opinions vary.
P.S. After you have srubbed the white residue as best you can, fill the tank with water and see if the slight remaining stain from residue is visible. Often times it isn't. I would not use any metal srubbing material on the tanks glass.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I fully agree with what 1077 has advised and suggested.

On your question of CO2 machines, this again depends upon your goal for the planted tank in the end. I have never used CO2 and have no intention of every trying it, simply because I have the look I want without it; I have healthy, thriving plants, and there are a few species I kow I cannot grow so I don't try. Adding CO2 does also mean adding much more light and nutrients to balance. All of this costs money, to set up and to run. Four times the light power over the course of a year is significant. But of course, there are other considerations besides money in the end, I only mention it because I see no need to spend more than what is necessary.

Several types of filters will work; I only suggested canister because that is in my view the best for a planted tank, reasons for which I explained previously. In a healthy planted tank you do not need mega-filtration. There are planted tank authorities who suggest no filtration. I like some water movement--this will occur in any aquarium with heated water and fish, filter or no filter, but a filter does increase it and stabilize it--but that plus mechanical filtration (trapping particulate matter in the water) is the sole purpose of my filter.

The test results on your tap water indicate ammonia is present (common in many areas) so 1077's suggestion to go with Prime as your water conditioner is good. As for the pH, this is slightly basic (alkaline) and I would suspect your hardness is moderate; pH is often connected to hardness (though not always, as in my own tap water) and the amount of carbonate hardness acts as a buffer for the pH. This means that it will not be easy to adjust your pH down, should you think of trying; do not under any circumstance use the chemical mixes designed to adjust pH. The buffer in the water will act contrary and the pH will fluctuate up and down which is far worse than stable pH. Choose your fish to match your water. We can discuss this more later.

Many of the available plants will do fine in basic water. The light is the single most important thing, I explained about that previously, but if you have any specific questions before buying a fixture or tubes I'll do what I can to advise. My recommendation is to get the equipment working (light, filter, heater) and decide what "look" you want, both from the plants and the probable fish you'll keep. Once that is planned out, realizing there will likely be some changes later, get the plants and plant them, along with the wood you have. Lastly, begin adding the fish, a few at a time; plants will do the cycling if they are sufficient in number and healthy.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Ok guys more updates, and I took pictures of everything in my setup (tank, stand, 400 filter, test kit, ect.) First some more questions as always.. what plants, and how many of each would be good for starting out? i plan on starting the aquascaping in about a week. also i believe byron, you said i could just use natural colored gravel, how many inches of gravel should be on the bottom? 2-3 inches fine or do the plants need more than that for complete rooting? how would it be if i got 6-7 neon tetras, 3 ram cichlids, and would black neon tetras do well in my water? i'm going to start researching, but i am going to take ya'lls advice and just go planted only for 2-3 weeks then slowly add fish. I Measured the top of the aquarium from left to right and it came out to 47 1/2 inches, 12 3/4 inches from front to back. i need help with my hood. Now onto my pictures 

Tank

















Stand

















Test Kit









Emperor 400

































Other Misc


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

How would the Apistogrammas or Peocilocharax weitzmani do in my water/tank? I'm looking to add some color to the aquarium besides just having the neon tetras.. I'm still adding boiling water to my 2 peices of mopani wood. the way I'm doing that is by putting each peice of wood into a container, until just now i had the medium wood in a 5g bucket, and the small wood in a very small ice chest and would just pour boiling hot water over them, but now they both are in one 5g bucket and im still just pouring the water over them until completely submerged.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Apistogramma Cacatuoides or (cockatoo) Could work with the ph you posted and the Bolivian ram is another option.Not sure about how they would get along. Tetras could work as well, neons,black.
Probably not the german blue or gold rams ,or the Peocilocharax Weitzman. They need soft acidic water.
As Byron has suggested ,and I agree, Three to four inches of substrate with perhaps deeper substrate in the back for taller rooted plants , and no less than two inches towards the front. Keep in mind,,.plant substrates contain minerals that plants can use while plain gravel will often times require root tabs and regular dosing of nutrients at least until such time as the waste from fish can contribute to that which the plan'ts utilize. Were it me,, I would start with a plant substrate but I only say that cause my previous attempts at palnted tanks require me to give the plant's the best chance from the outset. It sometimes takes a while for gravel to become rich enough with nutrients to support less hardy plants. I am near certain that my aggressive gravel vaccuming wasn't helping my efforts . 
I am thinking that the filter you have may require glass tops on the tank as opposed to a hood and many hoods don't allow for much in the way of upgrading the lights but some do.
Again ,I would heed Byron's suggestions and advice on nearly all aspects and if you have PATIENCE,things will be far more enjoyable. To rush things,only invites problems that seem to have snowball effect.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I'm expanding a bit on what 1077 has mentioned. A glass cover with a light fixture works best in my view. The measurements indicate this is a standard 55g tank, 4 feet length, so glass covers are available to fit and a light fixture 48-inches long will work. The glass cover sits inside the frame on that little lip that runs around, there will be two panes for each side, the front pane will slide back for feeding. As you have that good brace in the centre (my 4-foot tanks do not) the glass covers will be two sets, one for each opening, so measure those when you go to buy the covers. The light fixture then sits across the whole thing on the top of the main tank frame; I like to have the fixture just back of centre, so I can open the glass panes fully at the front. The light seems to be good from that position.

This arrangement allows you the option of a single or dual-tube fixture. Whichever, you'll want it full length, and the tubes are standard 48-inch tubes (actually 47 inches, but called 48). If you looked at my Aquariums photos, you can achieve that sort of plant growth and appearance with either a single T5 HO tube fixture or a double-tube regular fluorescent fixture. The T5 tubes are considerably more intense (bright) so one is sufficient. The benefit of two tubes is being able to have two different types of tubes. For example, on my larger tanks I have one full spectrum Life-Glo 2 tube 6700K and one tube that is slightly stronger in the blue (the light plants most need). My 115g and 90g are a bit deeper than the 55g so this is also better from that aspect. It's really up to you. Whichever, the Life-Glo 2 tubes are in my view the best.

When I had a 55g I also used hang-on filters (before I understood canisters) and placed it at one end on the back. This creates a flow from end to end which simulates a natural stream, and for the fish and plants you'll have is more natural and effective.

I use regular aquarium gravel wth root fertilizer sticks next to the largest swords because they are heavy feeders. You can put a layer of enriched material under the gravel; I did once, but saw no difference so I've never bothered again as it is additional expense and the root sticks work fine; you also have to be careful stirring up enriched substrates. Mulm does build up in the gravel, that is what you want, as there is a complex biological process with all sorts of bacteria working in the substrate in connection with the plant roots. Choose a natural dark colour gravel; most of the fish we maintain in such setups come from flooded forest, quiet streams and ponds that have very dark substrates (mud, leaf litter, sometimes dark or buff sand) so the natural darker shades look better and set off the colours of the fish and plants. The smallest grain size gravel works best, both for the plant roots and maintenance. As 1077 said, 2-4 inches of gravel, less in front where the plants have shallow roots (groundcover plants) or open space, and deeper towards the sides and back for the larger plants with more extensive root systems. As I mentioned, there is a lot of biological activity occurring in the substrate, and some plants, especially swords and crypts, have extensive root systems. The roots of some of the larger swords in my 115g and 90g tanks reach out for 10-12 inches.

A comment on Poecilocharax weitzmani. I have a group of these in my 90g, and have had them previously. They are not easy fish. First, live food is almost mandatory, although they will learn to accept frozen bloodworms. I've had my present shoal since early March this year, and only 2 or 3 of the 7 will even look at flakes and seem to spit out more than they consume when they do; all eat frozen bloodworms, but I made sure they would (in the store) before I bought them. UInless you want to get into raising live food, or have a nearby store that carries live food like worms and brine shrimp, I would wait before venturing into this beautiful fish. When I had these fish back in 1997/8 I bought live worms every week, and after some months managed to get the fish to accept frozen bloodworms. But they are very fussy eaters. And, they must have very soft, acidic water. Hardness at 0 to 1 dGH and pH no higher than 6. Simiolar to cardinal tetras, and in fact P. weitzmani is sometimes caught with cardinals as they share some of the same habitat. The pH of the native water is never above 5.5 and frequently around 4.5, and the main reason aquarists can't seem to keep cardinals alive for more than a couple years is the water; provided with water like their habitat, cardinals will live more than 10 years. But I digress. The common ram (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) is very similar in requirements, and again, as others have frequently mentioned, not longlived when not provided with what they require in the way of water parameters. Some of the SA dwarf cichlids occur in slightly basic (alkaline) water, and you can research which ones or I can provide some suggestions later. 1077 mentioned a couple. The males of all species establish territories and arranging wood and lants to provide these helps in "keeping the peace" between them; a 4-foot tank give you opportunity for 2 or 3 such pairs.

Mopani wood takes a while to leech out the tannins, but these ar not harmful (quite the opposite as they are natural to acidic water fish) so even in the aquarium the tinted water will not hurt the fish or plants, and will clear in time. But you are wise to soak/boil it to get out as much as you can.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Yeah I got suckered into buying ANOTHER piece of Mopani, just because I'm planning to have quite a few schooling fish. Would any other tetra work with my water besides neon? I was thinking of glo-lite tetra, or black neon tetras? I went to petco today and I was looking for that "PRIME" stuff and failed to find it. would they carry it or do I need to look at an aquarium store for that? Oh, and it sucks I found an awesome deal on TWO rena xp3 canister filters, brand new on craigslist... 150 for both of them!! its so tempting! I love aquariums, its alot of fun planning them and then getting to relax and look at what you've created. I plan on having only this aquarium for about a year, and then I'm going to do another aquarium in my extra bedroom but it will be a marine aquarium. My Fiance and I are expecting right now and the marine aquarium I'm planning would be something similar to the nemo aquarium. I know its kinda corny in a way, but my nephew LOVES that movie and I'm sure my son/ daughter (We are not sure if its a boy or girl yet) will love it too. back to my amazon aquarium, can you show me what type of substrate your talking about (color, size) i have some in the bag thats kinda got mixed colors, like a tannish brown, with a darker brown, and a medium brown. each pebble is about the size of a thumbtack.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

For an aquarium top, Is this what ya'll were referring to? Of the two pictures I like the one on the right which I assume is the acrylic one? It seems alot easier with just the finger hole and being that I can just cut it to my needs

I measured the lip part where the top would rest and its 46.75"x11.25". Should I just buy the one thats 48x12?


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I've been browsing the net and found this for a lighting fixture, what do ya'll think

Double-Tube Lighting Fixture


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> For an aquarium top, Is this what ya'll were referring to? Of the two pictures I like the one on the right which I assume is the acrylic one? It seems alot easier with just the finger hole and being that I can just cut it to my needs
> 
> I measured the lip part where the top would rest and its 46.75"x11.25". Should I just buy the one thats 48x12?


No photo with this, but I can respond anyway. No, the 48-inch will not work. As I mentioned, you have a brace in the centre, and the glass/acrylic cover has to sit down inside the frame on both sides, so you will get two covers in effect, one for each side; measure the individual sides (measure both; although the brace should be centered, make no assumptions...). Glass covers normally come with a narrow strip of plastic for the rear pane that can be cut out for filter, heater, etc.

Byron.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Yeah I got suckered into buying ANOTHER piece of Mopani, just because I'm planning to have quite a few schooling fish. Would any other tetra work with my water besides neon? I was thinking of glo-lite tetra, or black neon tetras? I went to petco today and I was looking for that "PRIME" stuff and failed to find it. would they carry it or do I need to look at an aquarium store for that? Oh, and it sucks I found an awesome deal on TWO rena xp3 canister filters, brand new on craigslist... 150 for both of them!! its so tempting! I love aquariums, its alot of fun planning them and then getting to relax and look at what you've created. I plan on having only this aquarium for about a year, and then I'm going to do another aquarium in my extra bedroom but it will be a marine aquarium. My Fiance and I are expecting right now and the marine aquarium I'm planning would be something similar to the nemo aquarium. I know its kinda corny in a way, but my nephew LOVES that movie and I'm sure my son/ daughter (We are not sure if its a boy or girl yet) will love it too. back to my amazon aquarium, can you show me what type of substrate your talking about (color, size) i have some in the bag thats kinda got mixed colors, like a tannish brown, with a darker brown, and a medium brown. each pebble is about the size of a thumbtack.


If you have amonia in your tap water, Prime is a good conditioner, or another brand but make sure it detoxifies chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Some do not. Prime is reputable. Most fish stores now carry Seachem products, they make Prime.

Several tetyra species will work in your water. Glowlights and black neons, Pristella, Black Phantoms, some of the red Hyphessobrycon species...quite a few can be adapted to slightly basic/alkaline water with a pH around 7.6.

Marine tanks ar a very different ballgame from freshwater.

Byron.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> I've been browsing the net and found this for a lighting fixture, what do ya'll think
> 
> Double-Tube Lighting Fixture


This is a good fixture, in my opinion. I bought two of these in July (my old ones gave out after 12 years). The tubes that come with them are terrible light and quite useless, just take them out and buy good tubes. I previously recommended Life-Glo 2 as the best, or Zoo Med's Ultra-Sun or Phillips Daylight Deluxe. All come in 48-inch length to fit this fixture.

Byron.


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## Zoo Maniac (Sep 11, 2009)

To answer your question, All tetras get along well, sometimes the form schools with mixed Species. I also have a 29 Gallon tank and it has two clown loaches (Best to get as babies), 4 Tiger Barbs (The smaller the size the better), and two albino cory cats that only grow up to two inches that follow my loaches. 

There is a combatibility Guide Located Here: 
Freshwater & Brackish Compatibility Chart


Edit: Sorry thought this was on the first page.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> For an aquarium top, Is this what ya'll were referring to? Of the two pictures I like the one on the right which I assume is the acrylic one? It seems alot easier with just the finger hole and being that I can just cut it to my needs
> 
> I measured the lip part where the top would rest and its 46.75"x11.25". Should I just buy the one thats 48x12?


Sorry Byron, Forgot to add the link haha... Ok I measured the two sides and this is what I got.
23x11.75

Would the 24x12 work, then do some small trimming to make it fit right or should I call them to let them know my measurements and see what they can do to match them? Here is the link.

Based on my water testing, Will I need any additives, earlier ya'll suggested using "PRIME"

As far as lighting, I'm going to order the above listed fixture, what two lights would you recommend for optimum growth. I also saw something called seachem flourish, any opinions?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Sorry Byron, Forgot to add the link haha... Ok I measured the two sides and this is what I got.
> 23x11.75
> 
> Would the 24x12 work, then do some small trimming to make it fit right or should I call them to let them know my measurements and see what they can do to match them? Here is the link.
> ...


1. Prime is a water conditioner, you use it when adding fresh tap water during the weekly partial water change (and obviously when you first fill the tank). It is the only water conditioner you need. For the weekly pwc, you add enough for the water you're adding, not for the whole tank; it will do no harm, but as it is not inexpensive no point in wasting it.

2. Cover: glass is not easy to "trim" if you're not a glass cutter and I don't know what the acrylic may be like to cut. If it were me, I would buy the cover from a reputable local fish store; it will be easier to return it if it doesn't fit. [Don't cut any openings until you're sure it does fit or they may not take it back.] The covers on the linked site appear to be quite specific to their tanks, and won't fit [unless you can cut them, but I wouldn't try]. I wold call 9or visit) the local store, tell them the type of tank and the measurements, see what they have.

3. Fluorescent tubes: You want full spectrum, around 6500K, 48-inch. There are three brands I have tried: Hagen/Nutrafin's Life-Glo 2, Zoo Med's Ultra Sun, and Phillips Daylight Deluxe. The first is the most expensive, the Zoo Med a bit less, and the Phillips the least expensive. All are at or near 6500K and are full spectrum. Tubes must be replaced every 12 months (both of them) because over time they quickly lose intensity to the point where they are not sufficient brightness for the plants (although they still "light" to our eyes).

4. Fertilizer: Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium is in my opinion one of the best liquid fertiolizers. Once a week (after the partial water change) at first; if after a few weeks the plant growth isn't good, twice a week. You have to experiment; the nutrients (fertilizer) have to be sufficient to balance the light and the CO2 from the fish. The light should be on for 8 hours minimum each day (use a timer, the same schedule is better for plants and fish). This can be extended a bit if the plants show signs of needing it. Everything has to balance, and the number of fish in the tank affects it as well, so it is something you just work out over a few weeks.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

These two aquariums are kinda my goal, more so the 2nd one, I like the way his substrate looks. 

















In this picture, What are the small plants in the front that have only 3-5 long narrow leaves? and is that Cabomba in the middle rear section?

This is also a aquaria that I like, but not what I'm going for ATM.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/Amaterske_akvarium.jpg

PLANTS: I'm planning on growing the following plants

Amazon Sword _(Echinodorus amazonicus)_
Dwarf Sagittaria _(Sagittaria subulata)_
Dwarf Anubias _(Anubias nana)_
Hornwort _(Ceratophyllum demersum) *Anchored*_
Dwarf Hygrophila _(Hygrophila polysperma)_
Stargrass _(Heteranthera Zosterfolia) *Possibly*_
Pygmy Chain Sword _(Echinodorus tenellus)_

*I'm Still searching plants so my list may change but thats basically my idea, I might weed out a few of the non amazonian plants.*

Please keep posted and continue with ya'lls helpful advice, This project of mine is moving along swimmingly due in a big part to ya'lls advice!! Everyones input is most def. appreciated and all the knowledge I've gained in the few weeks I've been on this site is amazing!! Keep the info coming!! :-D


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> These two aquariums are kinda my goal, more so the 2nd one, I like the way his substrate looks.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The main difference between the aquaria in these two photos is that the first requires CO2 diffusion and thus mega-light and daily fertilization to balance; the groundcover is very difficult to grow even with CO2 and heavy light intensity, as those who try it will attest. The second tank is along the lines we have been discussing.

The plant along the front is one of the pygmy chain swords, probably Echinodorus tenellus; the leaves appear narrower and shorter than another similar sword, E. quadricostatus. I have E. tenellus in my 90g and E. quadricostatus in my 115g.

The stem plant centre rear is not one of the Cabomba species; I'm not sure from the photo, but I would suggest either Myriophyllum aquaticum (milfoil) or Ceratophyllum demesum (Hornwort). I avoid both as they never do well in my tanks, probably insufficient light and CO2. When they fall apart they are very messy.

You can see even in this photo (not the best quality) how the dark substrate sets off the varied colours of the lants; the colourful shoaling fish in such an aquarium would sparkle. I prefer this sort of substrate to what I have now, though I'm not ready to change just yet.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Ok, I'm still soaking and boiling the mopani, its water is starting to look better, but I still have alot of things to buy before I can start making the gears turn. I've been contemplating fish also.

Emerald Green Cory (4)
Panda Cory (2-3)
Neon Tetra (7-8)
Black Neon Tetra (5-6)
If that is all I have room for thats all I'll get, But If those do good and I do have room for more I'm looking to get a few cichlids as well," non violent" of course


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Ok, I'm still soaking and boiling the mopani, its water is starting to look better, but I still have alot of things to buy before I can start making the gears turn. I've been contemplating fish also.
> 
> Emerald Green Cory (4)
> Panda Cory (2-3)
> ...


Your 50/55g has room for these and more--but not all at once or the beginning. Corydoras should preferably be in groups of minimum 3 of a species; while they will socialize with mixed species, given the opportunity they do prefer their own and are less stressed when they have 3+. The "emerald green" could either be Corydoras aeneus or Brochis splendens, a closely related genus to Corydoras. Photos below for info, C. aenus top photo, B. splendens lower; the Brochis gets much larger, 4+ inches, the C. aeneus 2 inches, so the Brochis has a bit more impact on the bioload, something to consider.

C. panda do not always settle in, especially to new tanks. Give the tank 3+ months after its biologically established and pandas will fare better. Same goes for any of the dwarf cichlids (which is what you'd be considering in such a setup). They are sensitive to water parameters and quality. Some also have higher temperature needs; not all "tropical fish' can co-exist in the same temperature range so this is something to check when researching fish.

Characins (any of the tetras) are always better in groups of minimum 6 but more where space is available. Seven or so of both neons and black neons would be fine. There are plenty of colourful tetras, research them before you buy "what's available". You could have small groups of several species in your tank.

Byron.


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## WisFish (Dec 16, 2008)

Get the glass top that matches the tank manufacturer. It's probably All-glass or perfecto. If you get the all-glass version, get the one designed for twin tubes. It has a larger back glass panel to accommodate the wider twin tube light fixture. If you get the standard fixture, the front and back glass panels are the same size. This means you won't be able to open the front section to access the tank. Here's the twin tubes version of the glass hood:

Aquarium Hoods & Canopies: All-Glass Twin-Tube Versa-Tops


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

+


Byron said:


> Your 50/55g has room for these and more--but not all at once or the beginning. Corydoras should preferably be in groups of minimum 3 of a species; while they will socialize with mixed species, given the opportunity they do prefer their own and are less stressed when they have 3+. The "emerald green" could either be Corydoras aeneus or Brochis splendens, a closely related genus to Corydoras. Photos below for info, C. aenus top photo, B. splendens lower; the Brochis gets much larger, 4+ inches, the C. aeneus 2 inches, so the Brochis has a bit more impact on the bioload, something to consider.
> 
> C. panda do not always settle in, especially to new tanks. Give the tank 3+ months after its biologically established and pandas will fare better. Same goes for any of the dwarf cichlids (which is what you'd be considering in such a setup). They are sensitive to water parameters and quality. Some also have higher temperature needs; not all "tropical fish' can co-exist in the same temperature range so this is something to check when researching fish.
> 
> ...


Out of the two, I'm not sure which it is, but i know at petco it says emerald green cory. Would 6 or 7 be too many of the green cory if i didnt add panda cory? I think I'm gonna get the tank planted, let it sit for about 2-3 weeks, add the corys only, let them settle in for atleast a week then get the tetras. if i add 8 neons and 6 of either black neons or glolite tetra, how many dwarf cichlids could i add?
here is a picture of what i think a green cory looks like

\

Also, How is this for substrate (Color and size)


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> +
> 
> Out of the two, I'm not sure which it is, but i know at petco it says emerald green cory. Would 6 or 7 be too many of the green cory if i didnt add panda cory? I think I'm gonna get the tank planted, let it sit for about 2-3 weeks, add the corys only, let them settle in for atleast a week then get the tetras. if i add 8 neons and 6 of either black neons or glolite tetra, how many dwarf cichlids could i add?
> here is a picture of what i think a green cory looks like
> ...


The "cory" fish is a Brochis splendens. The dorsal fin has 12 rays; all three Brochis species have 10 or more rays in the dorsal, whereas all Corydoras species have no more than 7 rays. I have never cared for the Brochis, they are "big" in appearance, but that is just my preference; your tank is yours.

The gravel is a nice colour, natural earth looking, and wuld probably work OK, although I would suggest a smaller grain size, say 1-2 mm, both for plants and bottom fish like corys. It is also more expensive by the bag like this. The cheapest gravel is in bulk, some fish stores carry bulk gravel in natural and a dark colour, or maybe look at landscape or stone places. Just be sure it is inert gravel; gravel made of calcareus rock (limestone, dlomite, marble, coral) will leech mineral into the water, raising hardness and pH which is not what you want in planted tanks. In another thread yesterday someone mentioned "Peace River" brand gravel, which looked ideal to me. Here's a link to another site with lots of different gravels: River gravel - Shop sales, stores & prices at TheFind.com
Just make sure it is small grain size and inert.

Once the tank is planted (and I mean not a couple plants, but several) it needn't sit before you add some fish; just a few, preferably tetras. Corys do not always adjust to new tanks easily, and it would be less stress on them if the tank was matured for a few weeks--but you can't mature a tank with no fish in it, hence, add a group of tetras and then another, etc. The plants will handles the ammonia and nitrite.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

would this work or still too large or pebbles? 

Substrate for Freshwater Planted Aquariums: Seachem Flourite Planted Aquarium Substrate

Also found this

Estes Shallow Creek Pebbles Aquarium Gravel 25lb Case


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> would this work or still too large or pebbles?
> 
> Substrate for Freshwater Planted Aquariums: Seachem Flourite Planted Aquarium Substrate
> 
> ...


Although I've never used Flourite (I am not yet a fan of enriched substrates) it has a good recommendation among the planted tank crowd I believe. It is clay-enriched substrate, not plain gravel. The look is certainly nice, I've seen photos of aquarists tanks. Expensive though, compared to regular gravel.

The pebble stuff is larger grain, something I would avoid if you can. While plants will grow in all sorts of things, the small-grain gravel seems to be overall the best. It has worked for me for 12+ years, and most (if not all) of the planted tank experts recommend it as the best substrate. There is also the matter of bottom fish I think I mentioned, the smaller the grain the better.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

ok, where do you buy your gravel at? I'm going to look at the lfs tommorrow and see what i can find... any certain brands?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> ok, where do you buy your gravel at? I'm going to look at the lfs tommorrow and see what i can find... any certain brands?


Many fish stores carry bulk gravel, at least in the common "natural" buff/brown colour, and some have black/dark grey gravel in bulk. It is far cheaper. The smallest size, 2mm grains or therabouts. The bagged gravel is much more expensive, I have never used it except once when I wanted pure black and had no other means of getting any (back in the 1980's)--but the coating started to come off and the black gravel turned out to be blue in time. Natural gravels will not do this. Make sure it is inert, no calcareous stone stuff (coral, dolomite, limestone...) that will raise hardness and pH.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Thanks Byron, I read on the internet that if you buy pairs of different species of cichlids they're alot less likely to be confrontational. Also that if you have more than one peice of driftwood or something they can call theirs that it would also decrease confrontation. I've been doing my homework and I think in the next few weeks I'll be ready to start actually starting the aquarium. I'm going to go to the nearest fish store (40 miles away) to look for the gravel, glass tops, and maybe see about buying a double tube light fixture locally. also just to browse for more interesting things to add. I found out about a new species that was i think bred just this year, electron blue ram cichlid. I like them but i'm not sure they'd go good with the theme i have. also what do ya'll think about including this into my aquaria:










http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+6635+19749&pcatid=19749
I think it would add a unique touch, i like it but do ya'll think it would go along with my theme?? I'm sure it wouldnt make it look bad, Worst case i can just remove it.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Thanks Byron, I read on the internet that if you buy pairs of different species of cichlids they're alot less likely to be confrontational. Also that if you have more than one peice of driftwood or something they can call theirs that it would also decrease confrontation. I've been doing my homework and I think in the next few weeks I'll be ready to start actually starting the aquarium. I'm going to go to the nearest fish store (40 miles away) to look for the gravel, glass tops, and maybe see about buying a double tube light fixture locally. also just to browse for more interesting things to add. I found out about a new species that was i think bred just this year, electron blue ram cichlid. I like them but i'm not sure they'd go good with the theme i have. also what do ya'll think about including this into my aquaria:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


These "sand banks" look quite nice; I use a rock called "lace rock" (at least I think that's the common name, I got it back in the 1990's) to build terraces. Just make sure the gravel basically matches the rock, or at least the rock/wall whatever is all the same. Odds and ends in the way of types of rock and wood make an aquarium look "artificial" which is fine if that is what you want, but if you're leaning toward a "natural" look you want rock and wood that all matches, as it does in nature. And the gravel should fit the colour scheme. The above photo is matching, it looks natural, although in my view that particular gravel is too large a grain.

Assuming we're talking dwarf cichlids like rams, apistogramma, etc., yes the males are territorial and need space to establish their respective territory. Plants and wood or rock can break up the aquarium floor to provide individual areas and the males will pick one as their territory. Of course, there is a limit to this, only so many pairs can inhabit a tank. If your 50g is 4-feet in length I would say 3 pairs of dwarf cichlids would be workable; if 3-feet length, two pairs.

A caution on the blue rams. These are developed from the natural species Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, and a very sensitive fish to water parameters and quality. The water has to be slightly acidic, and warmer than the normal community aquarium so this limits other fish (some cannot tolerate prolonged warmer temperatures). Rams need it above 80F, preferably 82-84F, for long-term health. And if you do decide on these, let the tank become well established (3 months minimum) before adding them; they do much better in a matured tank where the water is stable. A better "ram" fish is the cousin, Mikrogeophagus altispinosa, commonly called the Bolivian Ram. It does well at normal community aquarium temperatures (77-79F) and will adapt to slightly acidic or slightly basic (alkaline) water. Getting a pair is not easy, this fish is difficult to sex when young/small. But it is a good small cichlid as a single fish in an aquarium with small shoaling fish like tetras and catfish. And in a 4-foot tank another one could be added; even if both were males they would have enough territorial space.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

well, I know my local petco sells gbr's so im thinking about getting them but if they dont go well with my water temps and ect ill try for one that meets the aquarium parameters.. I'm going to order that "sand bank" first, then tank it with me to the local fish stores and see what i can match up with it. I'm cancelling the glowlight and black neon tetras, i'm just going to buy 10-12 neon tetras, 4 bronze corys and 2-3 pairs of dwarf cichlids (of which match my parameters) and i'm wondering if clown loaches would get along with the tankmates.. Thanks for stickin around and helpin out byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I'm going to look on the internet and maybe order the bolivian rams, but could i have for example, 2 pairs of bolivians and one pair of gbr? I bought seachem prime yesterday, i'm going to call around about a 48" light fixture for the top, and 2 glass tops. i found some substrate at petsmart called Seachem Flourite. If i use that as my substrate i wont be buying the sand bank.. i might create my own raised surface with rocks from a hobby store.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

The german blue rams will not do well with the ph you posted of 7.6 in the long term. Some (many), have tried and the fish seldom last very long. They truly need soft acidic water with ph values not much above 6.8 with values closer to 6.0 being ideal. If you could find some that were locally raised in slightly harder water, then perhaps they might work but two pair of most any cichlids will be one pair too many in a 29 gal.
I realize you want to keep the fish that interest you ,but the fish should be comfortable in your water if they are to do well in the long term. By that I mean all of the fish should share similar water parameters with regard to temperatures and ph values which represent the alkalinity or acidity of your specific source water.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

i have a 55g long tank that i found on craigslist half way through the thread.. i bought that prime stuff ya'll said i'd need, and i have driftwood that i was thinking would slightly lower my pH level. but whatever is best for the fish is fine, ill get what my water allows me to get.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> well, I know my local petco sells gbr's so im thinking about getting them but if they dont go well with my water temps and ect ill try for one that meets the aquarium parameters.. I'm going to order that "sand bank" first, then tank it with me to the local fish stores and see what i can match up with it. I'm cancelling the glowlight and black neon tetras, i'm just going to buy 10-12 neon tetras, 4 bronze corys and 2-3 pairs of dwarf cichlids (of which match my parameters) and i'm wondering if clown loaches would get along with the tankmates.. Thanks for stickin around and helpin out byron.


I do not recommend clown loaches in a 29g tank, nor in the 50g long you mention in a subsequent post. These fish grow (when given adequate space to be healthy) up to 12 inches or more, and they are social fish that must be in a group to be "happy." Five or six of them in a 6-foot tank would be a site. There is a biotope display at the Vancouver Public Aquarium with these fish (and others from their native habitat streams) that is wonderful to behold, but the tank has several hundreds of gallons of water.

Keeping potentially-large fish in too small a tank causes internal growth problems that frequently lead to immune system deficiences in particular. The fish will develop health problems or be subjected to parasite attacks (clown loaches are notorious for ich and similar parasitic infestations anyway) far more than when they are in suitable quarters. It is probably a matter of the water quality as much or more than the actual tank size.

Byron.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> i have a 55g long tank that i found on craigslist half way through the thread.. i bought that prime stuff ya'll said i'd need, and i have driftwood that i was thinking would slightly lower my pH level. but whatever is best for the fish is fine, ill get what my water allows me to get.


This is a very sensible approach. It is not so easy to alter water chemistry. Re the driftwood, enough of it would affect the water slightly, probably lowering the pH by .2 at most, which is insignificant in this situation. Be careful with rocks you mentioned previously, any that are calcareous (limestone, dolomite, marble, coral, lava) will raise hardness and pH by leeching mineral (calcoium) into the water. It may be a little or more, but as the water is already on the basic (alkaline) side you don't want to be raising it further.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

yeah i looked at information on the clown loaches and i decided that they were a bad idea hehe.. Maybe i should do my research before i even consider any of the fish.. i've been looking up info on bolivians and they seem to be the perfect match for my water type.. im not going to use hobby rocks anymore. i plan on putting an object under the substrate to raise the flooring for the raised effect in the fron left hand side.. i saw that someone did it with panty hose.. ill see if i can find that thread.. other than what i have all i need is to buy my substrate, thoroughly clean the tank, buy the glass tops and lighting equipment and im basically done.. then just add plants, arrange everything, and give it about a week of sitting before i add any fish.. ill add tetras 1st, corys 2nd, and 2 or 3 pairs of bolivians last..


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> yeah i looked at information on the clown loaches and i decided that they were a bad idea hehe.. Maybe i should do my research before i even consider any of the fish.. i've been looking up info on bolivians and they seem to be the perfect match for my water type.. im not going to use hobby rocks anymore. i plan on putting an object under the substrate to raise the flooring for the raised effect in the fron left hand side.. i saw that someone did it with panty hose.. ill see if i can find that thread.. other than what i have all i need is to buy my substrate, thoroughly clean the tank, buy the glass tops and lighting equipment and im basically done.. then just add plants, arrange everything, and give it about a week of sitting before i add any fish.. ill add tetras 1st, corys 2nd, and 2 or 3 pairs of bolivians last..


Good plan with one change suggested: add the first tetras right after (same day) as the plants are all in. Use a water conditioner before adding fish, regardless of how long the water has been in the tank. Letting it sit without fish will do nothing that won't occur on day one with a few fish. The plants will need ammonium which they convert from the ammonia the fish produce; they also use nitrite. You will have no cycling issues with a good planting. Wait before adding the corys and bolivians, they are very sensitive to new conditions and even though the cycling won't be an issue it still takes time for the tank to settle biologically. And do a dose of Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive when the plants go in; once a week after that, in the amount indicated on the label. The reaction of the plants after a couple of weeks will indicate if a second weekly dose is required.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

do i still need flourish comprehensive if im using seachem flourite as my substrate?? what 2 bulbs will i need, i know you suggested 6700k life-glo 2, is there another that should be paired with it since im getting the double-tube design. would a rena xp3 be a more sufficient filtration system? I'm opting to get my money back on the emp 400 and snag a deal i found on craigslist, 2 brand new rena xp3 filter systems for 150 bucks.. they're 2 hours away from where i live but its worth the drive. is the canister type filter system any more difficult than the hang-on type? more high maintenance or anything?


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I found a lot of small grain gravels, here we go. BTW when searching its better to search for FINE gravel instead of small grain gravel.. lol



Support gravel water filter media and gravel water treatment media for bed support#


EA Hobby
This one looks like it might be calcareous..

Theres some more here 
Fine gravel - Shop sales, stores & prices at TheFind.com

quick question about PRIME, if i added it to my 10g empty aquarium would i be able to put a female betta in it right away or still have to wait


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

This one caught my eye the most of all of them.









http://www.animalworldnetwork.com/pebeworo10lb.html


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

I like the last photo for gravel.
Prime should be added to all water going into the aquarium. Betta could be added assuming filter and heater are present but water changes will be needed to keep ammonia levels from becoming too high until filter matures with bacteria. Fish produce ammonia through waste,(poop) and respiration. Add to that ,bits of food that may not be eaten, and ammonia levels can become dangerous. In my view,, daily or every other day testing and or water changes ,will be needed until the 10 gal matures, or (cycles). 
Is why those who keep bettas in small unfiltered tanks,kill their fish.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Heh.... I keep my betta in a 1.7g unfiltered hex aquarium...  but i do change the water regularly. i have a 30g top fin filter hang type filter, could that be used in the 10g betta aquarium? Yeah I'm probably gonna order the gravel i posted last.. isnt it 2 pounds per gallon? if so i'd need about 100 pounds. I should be setup within a weeks time.. this coming friday i will probably go get the tetras and plants. probably around halloween i would hope to be able to get the corys, and right before thanksgiving get the rams



I found a T5 Single Bulb Flourescent Fixture on eBay for 80 bucks, should i get it? this is the description






Features:
*SLEEK, AESTHETIC DESIGN, ENHANCES AQUARIUM*
*ADJUSTS FROM 46.75"- 64" FOR USE ON VARIOUS AQUARIUMS*
*1 X 54 W*​
​
​*​

HIGHLY POLISHED INTERNAL REFLECTOR 


COMPLETE WITH MULTIPLE INSTALLATION COMPONENTS
WATER RESISTANT END CAPS
T5 HO ELECTRONIC BALLAST
INTEGRATED HARDWARE FOR TANK MOUNT OR SUSPENDED INSTALLATIONS
FOR FRESH & SALTWATER USE​**THESE HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE T5 HO LIGHTING UNITS ARE LOADED WITH PERFORMANCE ENHANCING FEATURES TO ENSURE OPTIUM LIGHT LEVELS FOR EXCELLENT RESULTS IN ALL FRESHWATER AND SALTWATER AQUARIUMS. SPECIAL TANK MOUNT BRACKETS ALLOW VERTICAL ADJUSMENT OF THE LIGHT UNIT TO "FINE TUNE" LIGHT LEVELS AS WELL AS INTEGRATED HORIZONTAL BRACKETS TO ADAPT TO A VARIETY OF TANK LENGTHS. ALL GLO LIGHTING COMPONENTS HAVE BEEN ENGINEERED TO DELIVER SUPERIOR PERFORMANCE WITH A VARIETY OF FEATURES SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO SUPPORT A SUCCESSFUL AQUARIUM KEEPING EXPERIENCE.*​


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Sorry ,can't be of much help with the lighting, Byron would be the one to ask.
As for the ten gal for your betta,(bless you for providing proper tank) The filter rated for thirty gal may produce too much current for the Betta. My personal choice would be a sponge filter. Cheap,and only reqires a small air pump and some airline tubing.They have large surface area for bacteria to colonize and you simply squeeze em out in some old aquarium water once a week or every two weeks, and stick em back in. I like the HYDRO SPONGE and have four or five of the larger models in operation on my tanks.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> do i still need flourish comprehensive if im using seachem flourite as my substrate?? what 2 bulbs will i need, i know you suggested 6700k life-glo 2, is there another that should be paired with it since im getting the double-tube design. would a rena xp3 be a more sufficient filtration system? I'm opting to get my money back on the emp 400 and snag a deal i found on craigslist, 2 brand new rena xp3 filter systems for 150 bucks.. they're 2 hours away from where i live but its worth the drive. is the canister type filter system any more difficult than the hang-on type? more high maintenance or anything?


1. Flourite is a substrate additive, it is basically iron, little else in the way of nutrients (according to the info on the Seachem site). Plants require 17 nutrients in order to grow, and these must be balanced with each other. An excess of some nutrients has been shown to cause nutrient deficiency with respect to other nutrients, so it is very important to have all of the nutrients in balance. Some nutrients enter the aquarium through tap water, some through fish foods. But not all. Flourish Comprehensive Supplement is a balanced fertilizer that has all required nutrients in balance. Kent Freshwater appears to be similar, I used it years ago and had beautiful planted tanks just as now. And there are I believe some others that I have not used so won't recommend just in case. So to answer you, no, Flourite is not sufficient. This thread is getting so long I can't remember what may or may not have been covered, but I personally would not bother with the expense of substrate additives like Flourite. Since it is not complete, it is better to go with regular gravel and use fertilizer sticks for large plants that do better with root fertilization so they get everything they need.

2. To the light, Life-Glo 2 are good, Zoo Med's Ultra Sun is good, Phillips Daylight Deluxe is good. I have a mix of the first and third on my three aquaria that have two tubes; on single-tube tanks I use Life-glo 2, and two of these would also work on twin-tube tanks.

3. Rena XP3 is a good filter, I have one on my 115g. Seems a bit of overkill on a 55g tank though, but it does have a valve for decreasing the water flow (make sure the used ones do if you decide on them). You do not want a lot of water movement in a planted tank. I can cite you scientific studies proving that plants have more difficulty extracting the nutrients from the water with increased flow. Minimal to move the water through the filter pads for water clarity is sufficient. Canister filters are easy maintenance; the pads need rinsing once a month (depends upon the fishload, plants, debris in the water...) and that's it.

Byron.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> This one caught my eye the most of all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This looks very nice, but I can't tell the grain size and there is no indication on the linked site. I have some similar-looking gravel, I use it in amphibian tanks as it is bigger grain size than I like in planted aquaria. Can't tell if this one is small or large. I suggst you see what your local fish stores have in the way of bulk gravel, something dark/natural like this one or darker, brown/grey/black mix, it will be much, much less expensive.

B.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Heh.... I keep my betta in a 1.7g unfiltered hex aquarium...  but i do change the water regularly. i have a 30g top fin filter hang type filter, could that be used in the 10g betta aquarium? Yeah I'm probably gonna order the gravel i posted last.. isnt it 2 pounds per gallon? if so i'd need about 100 pounds. I should be setup within a weeks time.. this coming friday i will probably go get the tetras and plants. probably around halloween i would hope to be able to get the corys, and right before thanksgiving get the rams
> 
> 
> 
> ...


With only one tube this would work. I tried the twin-tube fixture (same 48-inch size, two tubes 54w each) on my 115g, it was far too much light, and as I thought one would be insufficient on that large a tank I went with the regular twin-tube fixture. But having seen these, I think one tube would be fine on a 55g 48-inch tank. The tube would be a Life-Glo 2 which comes in T5. T5 are special fixtures that will not take tubes other than the T5 type.

And I agree with 1077's subsequent response that a sponge filter is the best on small tanks.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Ok, They have the same light at petsmart for 126, or on ebay for 80+ shipping. thing is i went to ps and they didnt have it, you think theres a way they could order it from the store with out me paying shipping?? ill buy the life-glo t5 6500k bulb, correct byron? I've been struggling with the tank all day trying all kinds of things to clean the hard water build up.. any suggestions? So far i've tried CLR, Vinegar, Vinegar & water mixed, Vinegar and Baking Soda mixed, And Lemon Juice. Found something called spot-x which i am wanting to try out but some reviews said it slightly scratched their auto glass.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Ok, They have the same light at petsmart for 126, or on ebay for 80+ shipping. thing is i went to ps and they didnt have it, you think theres a way they could order it from the store with out me paying shipping?? ill buy the life-glo t5 6500k bulb, correct byron? I've been struggling with the tank all day trying all kinds of things to clean the hard water build up.. any suggestions? So far i've tried CLR, Vinegar, Vinegar & water mixed, Vinegar and Baking Soda mixed, And Lemon Juice. Found something called spot-x which i am wanting to try out but some reviews said it slightly scratched their auto glass.


If the store normally carries the product, I would think they could order it, and you would pay their normal price as if they had it (not shipping as they would cover this normally for their regular stock). Might take a while, sometimes stores take months to get new stock. The cheaper price plus shipping might still be less than their price. Your decision. And the T5 Life-Glo 2 tube in the correct size for the fixture will work fine. Nice light for planted tanks.

Be careful about scratching the glass. A razor blade (the old kind) can sometimes work, but easy to scratch.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Right now I'm trying something called Weimans glass cooking top cleaner. I read somewhere that it works wonders so im trying it out... I'll let ya'll know what happens! hopefully somehow i can get this crud off! I just realized my tank is 15 yrs old!! it says built nov 94... hopefully this build up isnt 15 yrs old or i might end up buying a new tank!


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Well, That didnt work.. I'm letting vinegar sit on the stains right now, I tried the wieman cleaner and it didnt do a darn thing.. I looked around on the net and found some API Cleaner.. I'm going to go to persmart and buy it tomorrow, and talk to them about ordering the t5 fixture. I called and they said they cant ship it to the store. The one on ebay you gotta pay shipping and even then he doesnt guarantee that it will be in one piece when it arrives, so you have to pay for shipping insurance. If it does end up broken apon arrival you gotta pay to ship it back! thats a last resort for me.. Things should be up and running here pretty soon. I'd say 2 more weeks and I'll have everything going straight. So i can add the tetras the same day as i add plants or should I wait like 24 hours? Also, I assume I'll need a heater??


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Well, That didnt work.. I'm letting vinegar sit on the stains right now, I tried the wieman cleaner and it didnt do a darn thing.. I looked around on the net and found some API Cleaner.. I'm going to go to persmart and buy it tomorrow, and talk to them about ordering the t5 fixture. I called and they said they cant ship it to the store. The one on ebay you gotta pay shipping and even then he doesnt guarantee that it will be in one piece when it arrives, so you have to pay for shipping insurance. If it does end up broken apon arrival you gotta pay to ship it back! thats a last resort for me.. Things should be up and running here pretty soon. I'd say 2 more weeks and I'll have everything going straight. So i can add the tetras the same day as i add plants or should I wait like 24 hours?


If the tank is heavily planted, you can add the tetras the same day. This is a 55g, so "heavily planted" means something like 10 plants like swords. As long as they are alive they'll do the job. I wouldn't push it with a lot of fish to start. B.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

yeah i plan on heavily planting it. 2-3 sword chains, 2 amazon swords, 1 anarchis, 1-2 java ferns, 1 narrow leaf temple, 2 Magenta Water Hedge. thats all for now.. i might grow anubias nana on a driftwood if theres room and need for it. ill wait a day or 2 to add any fish.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

How about corydoras sp. neon orange laser as my cory? i'm going to buy 5-6.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> How about corydoras sp. neon orange laser as my cory? i'm going to buy 5-6.


A beautiful Corydoras. Originally thought to be a local type of Corydoras aeneus, there is thinking now that they may actually be distinct species. The C. aeneus with about a dozen or so variants is found over much of South America and on Trinidad (which was of course once joined to the main continent). Such widespread distribution of the species, plus the wide variation among the variants found only in select rivers, makes many ichthyologists believe that some of the variants must be individual species, and a couple have been so described for some time. 

There are three (so far) of the "stripe" version, all from Peru and so far scientifically considered variants of C. aeneus: the green stripe, the golden stripe, and the red stripe. The fish in your photos appears to be the second, the golden stripe, and it has olive/yellowish fins as well as the brilliant golden-orange stripe.

My only caution would be to ensure the tank is matured biologically before adding these fish. I had some of them back when they first appeared in the trade, and found them to be sensitive to water parameters and quality. Of course, many of the Corydoras are, some more than others. This species (if it is a distinct species) used to be quite expensive as corys go; I haven't seen any of them locally for years.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

yes i found these on a internet website. 7 bucks a pop! which i dont think is too bad, they're a beautiful fish. I bought a 55g long tank and a stand for 50, 55, 75, and 80 gallon aquariums, both are top fin brand.. not sure how great that brand is? the tank was 135 and the stand was 165. the tank came with 2 lids that have single bulb flourescent fixtures with them, is that a suitable setup or do i need a 48" t5 or something. if possible i'd like to use what i have already... I found some small sized gravel at petco in a nice natural color. just to be assured, rule of thumb is usually 2 lbs of gravel per gallon? at petsmart it says 1.5 lbs but ill go with 120 lbs of gravel and chec k how deep it will lay. i know you said 2-3" for a planted tank. also what is the best way to clean the gravel so it doesnt cloud up my tank? gravel will probably be bought wednesday, Hopefully lol.. I guess around the end of november i could add the corys? then in december add the bolivians. I'm very excited about all this, everything i buy makes me that much more anxious!!! patience is a virtue though and i'm taking the neccessary steps to get everything right the first go around. as far as rams go would adding 3 pairs be too many? should i just have 3 males with their own territories?


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I have picked my fish stock list for now. 11-13 cardinal tetras, then later 6-7 golden or "orange laser" corys, and 3 bolivian rams. later i might add some more fish like maybe some hatchets but for now this list seems pretty solid.. I picked these because i researched their water preferences and they are all similar.

Bolivian Ram
Temp 72-79F
KH 0-10
pH 6.5-7.5

Cardinal Tetra
Temp 73-81F
KH 2-6
pH 5.5-7.5

Golden/Orange Stripe Cory
Temp 71-79
pH 6.5-7.5


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> yes i found these on a internet website. 7 bucks a pop! which i dont think is too bad, they're a beautiful fish. I bought a 55g long tank and a stand for 50, 55, 75, and 80 gallon aquariums, both are top fin brand.. not sure how great that brand is? the tank was 135 and the stand was 165. the tank came with 2 lids that have single bulb flourescent fixtures with them, is that a suitable setup or do i need a 48" t5 or something. if possible i'd like to use what i have already... I found some small sized gravel at petco in a nice natural color. just to be assured, rule of thumb is usually 2 lbs of gravel per gallon? at petsmart it says 1.5 lbs but ill go with 120 lbs of gravel and chec k how deep it will lay. i know you said 2-3" for a planted tank. also what is the best way to clean the gravel so it doesnt cloud up my tank? gravel will probably be bought wednesday, Hopefully lol.. I guess around the end of november i could add the corys? then in december add the bolivians. I'm very excited about all this, everything i buy makes me that much more anxious!!! patience is a virtue though and i'm taking the neccessary steps to get everything right the first go around. as far as rams go would adding 3 pairs be too many? should i just have 3 males with their own territories?


If this is a 4-foot 55g tank, a single tube 48-inch T5 or a double tube 48-inch regular fixture will work; I would lean to the latter because you can mix types of tubes to get slightly more blue in the mix, which is my preference and what I have on my three larger aquaria. A double T5 would be far too much light intensity for the plants and these fish you list, by far.

Seven dollars for those corys is a far cry from the $20+ I had to pay all those years ago, but then they were a novelty, first importation, etc. Nice fish.

Gravel, 2 pounds to the gallon will give you adequate and probably some spare--it's always good to have some spare gravel to add a cup or two here and there as will occur. Make sure it is the smallest grain aquarium gravel and dark [maybe we covered all this, can't remember, sorry, so many threads plus my advancing years:roll:]. Tedious work, cleaning gravel: place some in a bucket, in the utility room sink or outside (it gets messy and gravel down the drain is not fun), run water in, swish the gravel around, pour water out, repeat several times...you get the picture. The one chore with aquaria I do not like doing. First few buckets (gravel at the very bottom) can be a bit dirty, but the upper layer should be cleaned well. Arrange the wood, rocks, hard scaping stuff first, then fill the tank; set a large dish on the gravel to run the hose in, avoids disturbing and clouding it more than necessary. Then plant and let it sit overnight to ensure filter, heater working OK. Then add the first fish, use water conditioner then if not the previous day--I always wait for the conditioner in case I have to drain out the water and it is wasted.

Three pairs of rams is a lot, unless you can be certain they are true pairs; five or six males would be croweded in a 55g. I would probably go with 2-3 rams and try to get both sexes but in small fish that is not easy. I have one, I couldn't tell what it was when I got it last Oct, but now clearly a male and what a stunner. I'm going to try and track down another one, female if I can. In my five-foot 115g they will be fine males or a pair. They're quite hardy, if you come across them sooner, as long as the tank is running say a month, get them. The corys are probably the most sensitive in your list.

Are you going to have pH slightly acidic? Cardinals really do not fare as well in water above pH 7, most are still wild caught in NA, but in my experience the tank raised ones are more trouble. Most characin authorities mention low pH for cardinals, 6.5 the upper limit. Yes, I know, some probably have them "healthy" at 7.5 but this is not recommended. Hardness is the real issue, cardinals develop calcium blockage of the kidneys in hard water, and it might be some time before it takes them, but many can't maintain this fish beyond a couple of years, yet they will live more than 10 years in acidic water, so it is worth bearing in mind. The proof is in the pudding.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

My tap water is 7.4 pH but i will have 3 peices of driftwood, and i'm using prime water conditioner. Isnt there also a water supplement that API puts out to lower pH levels? on liveaquaria.com it says cardinals can be housed in water with pH levels any where from 5.5 to 7.5??? maybe thats pushing the edge a little bit? I'd also eventually liket o have 6-7 zebra danios. I found some gravel at PETCO that i really liked colorwise, and its decently small. I'll have to buy some flourish comprehensive also. Do i add the flourish the day i plant the tank? and you mentioned using root tabs or something of that sort. I'm going to search the internet and see which light fixture would be cheaper, a double tube flourescent or a single bulb t5. here is the gravel color, although it doesnt say the size it cant be but maybe a 1/4 inch each pebble..

















I was thinking about getting 3 of the Nutmeg color which is the top picture, and 1 bag of the pebble beach, which is the bottom picture and mixing them to get a more natural medium color..

15 bucks for 25 lbs. I'll probably buy 4 bags to get 100 lbs, and see how that does.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> My tap water is 7.4 pH but i will have 3 peices of driftwood, and i'm using prime water conditioner. Isnt there also a water supplement that API puts out to lower pH levels? on liveaquaria.com it says cardinals can be housed in water with pH levels any where from 5.5 to 7.5??? maybe thats pushing the edge a little bit? I'd also eventually liket o have 6-7 zebra danios. I found some gravel at PETCO that i really liked colorwise, and its decently small. I'll have to buy some flourish comprehensive also. Do i add the flourish the day i plant the tank? and you mentioned using root tabs or something of that sort. I'm going to search the internet and see which light fixture would be cheaper, a double tube flourescent or a single bulb t5. here is the gravel color, although it doesnt say the size it cant be but maybe a 1/4 inch each pebble..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The colours are quite natural, but I'd wonder about the grain size. Smallest grain gravel of 1-2mm is my preference. I have something very similar to what's pictured here I think, I use it in my amphibian tank, but I wouldn't put it in my planted aquaria. Have you checked out local fish stores, and landscaping places which often have bulk gravel? By comparison, you could do the whole tank for less than one bag. Provided of course you can find what you want.

Cardinals like many fish can exist in various water parameters. I prefer thinking long-term health of my fish and thus recommend that people select fish to suit their water. Using the chemicals to adjust water parameters is something I do not recommend, and you'll find many on here agree. The hardness of your water is going to buffer the pH and this means fluctuating water parameters which is even worse for the fish than steady if not within the preferred range. The best way to soften/acidify hard water is RO (reverse osmosis). Bogwood will lower pH by acidifying the water but it is minimal. A tank full of wood might lower by .2 or .3 and that is also subject to the buffering capacity and partial water changes will raise it again, etc.

Prime is a good water conditioner; it detoxifies ammonia, chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. It will not adjust hardness or pH. Do you know the hardness of your water? There is GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness), the latter is the pH buffering agent while the former generally indicates the level of calcium and magnesium. A KH of 2-6 (as recommended on the site you mentioned) is relatively soft water; I have 0 dKH and 0-1 dGH out of my tap, and I add dolomite to the filters to keep the tanks at 2 dGH (still 0 dKH). Cardinals thrive in this water hardness. Remember, that site is in the business of selling fish.

B.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

the pebbles arent too big.. probably 2-3mm? i can go to some fish stores and landscaping places before i end up buying the petco gravel. and i believe my pH is 7.4, how do i test kh and gh? is there an additional test kit i have to buy? i have the api freshwater master test kit.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Found this article about substrate sizes. now i know what the fine grain gravel looks like.

*Substrate Grain Size Makes a Difference.*

Since the secondary roots which significantly contribute to the health of the plant are extremely delicate, they are very susceptible to physical damage – to damage caused not only by the plant’s physical removal from the pet shop aquarium, but also by the shifting of large sized pebbles in the home aquarium substrate.
For this reason, I feel that the smaller the grain size of the aquarium gravel, the healthier the root system will be. Indeed, very fine gravel and sand shifts significantly less than does large grained gravel and pebbles.








Especially when using a gravel vacuum (by the way, you should gravel vac areas around plants only VERY gently), large grained substrate moves around a whole lot …even in the areas of the aquarium that are not being gravel vacuumed.
Imagine the damaged sustained by the secondary roots when pummeled and pulled by a 2 inch deep and tumbling layer of large pebbles! Now fathom the plant roots having to suffer this abuse on a continuous weekly or biweekly basis (and, even when you’re not gravel vacuuming your aquarium, large grained substrate does tend to shift)!
That said, how in the world can you expect the secondary roots to keep up with the sustained physical damage, and, consequently, why would you expect the roots to support a full foliage if you place the plant in large grained substrate?
The good news is that you can easily alleviate the above mentioned problem by simply using fine grained gravel, or even sand (intended for freshwater aquarium use), as opposed to bulky gravel or pebbles.
In fact, fine grained gravel not only provides your aquarium plant roots with a stable environment, but it also offers far more surface area for *biological filtration* and looks much nicer too.



I'll probably order this, its similar to eco complete but its cheaper and it comes by the gallon. 79.99 for 6 gallons worth. im ordering it in natural amazon

AquariumPlants.com's own: Freshwater Plant Substrate


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

This will work. Looks nice too. To answer your question on the hardness kit, yes, you can get one from API. They have three, one does GH only, one KH only, and one does both. The latter is best as you want to know the KH for the buffering aspect but the GH is good to know. To save money, your lfs would probably test your tap water for KH and GH. Once you know that, unless you do some sort of adjustment in the Aquarium (which I wouldn't recommend) you may never use the test kit again. I have one sitting on the shelf.

B.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Ok, I have read that alot of people do the cheaper alternative and buy lesco sms grey. I dont have a local dealer, closest store is 2 hrs away but its only about 15 dollars for 50 lbs! Others use shultz aquatic fertilizer? I was unable to find either one and i was wondering if scotts turf builder would work? this is the size


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I'm talking to a local landscaping store about ordering the lesco Soilmaster Select in Grey. If they cant get any of that then i'll order the 6 gallons worth of aquaticplant.com fert. but the sms is my first choice, for 50 lbs its around 16.50 so you can't beat it! i'm also wondering about using something API puts out for SA Cichlids.

*Amazon Extract*


Proprietary blend of humic acids, tannins and other beneficial organics. Developed to create ideal conditions for South American cichlids, such as discuss, angelfish, rams, oscars, flag cichlid and severum, it can also be used to improve coloration in fish that live in low pH (acidic) water conditions, such as tetras, barbs, gouramis, and killifish as well as in planted aquariums. Use weekly as most dissolved organics it contains oxidize in the aquarium. Amazon Extract™ Cichlid is a non tinting formula that does not alter pH and helps to create ideal water conditions to promote breeding and coloration.

Here is an article someone wrote about using Soilmaster Select as a substrate

Soilmaster Select Substrate - The Planted Tank


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I'm going to use Turface Pro League as my substrate. My local landscaping store can only get it in red... so im not sure about it but its a 90% chance ill use it.


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## southamericancichlidguy23 (Oct 22, 2009)

byron im gonna be doing some plants in the tank to maybe u can help me get the look i want 

http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/fishtanks.php thats look i want so bad


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

southamericancichlidguy23 said:


> byron im gonna be doing some plants in the tank to maybe u can help me get the look i want
> 
> http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/fishtanks.php thats look i want so bad


I clicked on the link and it took me to my own aquaria.:lol:

Nothing could be easier; fish have more problems than plants in my experience. But I suggest you start a new thread and we'll go from there. This current thread is Andrew's and it is long already.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I need to get some opinions on the turface proleague. i gotta get the order in by monday. I kinda dislike the red color but i can make it work. I was also wondering if i need to put a heat cable underneath the substrate? i have red that putting a layer of "peat" then topping with TPL a good way to go. i'm not sure really.. what type of heater would i need to buy? i am assuming ill need 150 watt heater but can anyone recommend a good brand


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> I need to get some opinions on the turface proleague. i gotta get the order in by monday. I kinda dislike the red color but i can make it work. I was also wondering if i need to put a heat cable underneath the substrate? i have red that putting a layer of "peat" then topping with TPL a good way to go. i'm not sure really.. what type of heater would i need to buy? i am assuming ill need 150 watt heater but can anyone recommend a good brand


Andrew, I hesitate to suggest substrates for others because it is your aquarium, not mine. All I can say is much what I have said:
(a) plants tend to grow better in small-grain gravel (1-2 mm grains);
(b) a dark or natural colour enhances the colours of the plants and fish, and looks "natural" if that is what you want; and
(c) enhanced substrates and substrate additives are not necessary (we're talking low-tech or "natural" aquariums), and individual root fertilizer tabs/sticks work fine with large plants that benefit from this.

As for heating cables, the plant authorities I have read do not recommend them as necessary. The purpose of a heating cable under the substrate is to ensure water movement through the substrate. With the gravel I recommend this is unnecessary as the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria levels in a healthy aquarium will create what is needed.

One must not forget that before we had CO2 diffusion and heating cables and whatever paraphernalia, aquarists maintained absolutely beautiful planted aquaria. I have myself never used these contraptions, and I have thriving plant growth. Manufacturers are there to make money. I prefer spending the money on some fish and plants, and I know they will be no less healthy and happy in the natural setup.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

ok thank you very much b. as for substrate color, i would like a more natural look but i do not feel like paying an arm and a leg for the eco or any similar product. aquariumplants.com substrate is the same thing as turface and soilmaster select. paying 70 bucks for a 5 gallon bucket of it when i can get 50# for 30 bucks, i think ill sacrifice the color. as for the peat i have researched a bit and they say a more controlled way to add peat is just to soak it in a bucket for a few days and add small amounts and test between. they say peat can lower my pH by about 0.5, so now comes the question. if i can sustain the pH level to be 6.5-6.8 would blue rams be a possibility? i'm gonna keep the temp at about 77F and i have updated my fish list to match my substrate.

Corydoras Sterbai
Black Skirt Tetra
Cardinal Tetra

Either of these rams
1 gbr
1 gold ram
OR
2 bolivians

I've still got to test my KH and GH. i went to petsmart and petco and couldnt find the test kits.
going with a marineland stealth heater, 200 watts


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> ok thank you very much b. as for substrate color, i would like a more natural look but i do not feel like paying an arm and a leg for the eco or any similar product. aquariumplants.com substrate is the same thing as turface and soilmaster select. paying 70 bucks for a 5 gallon bucket of it when i can get 50# for 30 bucks, i think ill sacrifice the color. as for the peat i have researched a bit and they say a more controlled way to add peat is just to soak it in a bucket for a few days and add small amounts and test between. they say peat can lower my pH by about 0.5, so now comes the question. if i can sustain the pH level to be 6.5-6.8 would blue rams be a possibility? i'm gonna keep the temp at about 77F and i have updated my fish list to match my substrate.
> 
> Corydoras Sterbai
> Black Skirt Tetra
> ...


Peat gives out over time, and depending upon the hardness of the water this varies. Before you ask, I've no idea how long this or that much will work, I've never used it. But you will have to keep buying or finding peat.

Realize that once you have a colour substrate, good or bad, you can't change it without pulling it out; point is, get what you want and spend the money to do it, or you won't be happy with the result if it doesn't quite measure up to what you'd like. Some things are worth the extra money. But as for Eco-complete and similar enriched substrates, they are expensive and I would never use them because there is no need. Plain gravel works just fine and it is cheaper in bulk. A root fert tab/stick next to the larger plants provides all the nutrients they need with the setup you're aiming for.

A temp of 77F is insufficient for the common (gold or blue) rams; over 80, preferably around 82. The cardinals and C. sterbai can manage with that, if you go this way. Bolivians are much more accomodating, normal temps (77-78 F) and the others are OK with that too. The black skirt tetra _Gymnocorymbus ternetzi_ is listed as 68-78 F. Interestingly, it comes from some of the same rivers as the C. sterbai and the Bolivian Ram.

B.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Could you give me an example of a tank that would be set up to house 1 blue ram, and 1 gold ram. I did actually find a lfs that carries blue rams and can probably get a hold of a gold ram. I'd like to have some sort of tetras, and some sort of corys. any other tank mates can be listed also. i'd like to get an example of the following if you dont mind

Ideal temp
Ideal pH
Ideal tankmates
Ideal plants
Any other Misc info you think I will need to make things comfortable for the inhabitants.

I like bolivian rams but imo the gbr and gold ram are alot nicer looking. I actually would rather have the gbr either way since i have no local source for getting bolivian rams. I can however get the gold and blue rams. I am getting very excited about the whole thing, I Hope to have things completed by then middle of november. I should have it atleast planted and running within two weeks. I hope mine turns out as amazing as yours Byron. If using root tabs, Is there a need for liquid ferts such as flourish comprehensive? I'm still very new and I'm trying to absorb all info I can.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Could you give me an example of a tank that would be set up to house 1 blue ram, and 1 gold ram. I did actually find a lfs that carries blue rams and can probably get a hold of a gold ram. I'd like to have some sort of tetras, and some sort of corys. any other tank mates can be listed also. i'd like to get an example of the following if you dont mind
> 
> Ideal temp
> Ideal pH
> ...


OK Andrew, here are my thoughts on your list. I am assuming this is for an aquarium to house a pair of common rams; these fish always do better in pairs (male and female), so first off I would get a pair of blue rams or gold rams. At the outset you mentioned a 29g tank, upgrading to a 50g shortly. If you're building the 29g now, I'd go with one pair of either ram. When you have the 50g, add a pair of the other ram. The males need room for a territory and that equates to linear space (length of the tank). Your plant arrangements, wood and rock will delineate the territories; this is always more successful with more than one pair of dwarf cichlid since the males will "recognize" the territorial boundaries.

Water temperature, minimum 80F, preferably 82F. The pH should be below 7, preferably around 6.0 but somewhere in the low to mid-6 range will work. But hardness is even more important. A general hardness of 2 to 3 dGH is about the best, with a carbonate hardness to match (2-3 dKH). This will allow the pH to drop naturally, so it is the hardness aspect that needs to be addressed and the pH will fall into place. As noted previously by myself and 1077, this can be achieved by RO, mixing distilled water with tap water, and peat filtration. I would look into the cost for a RO unit; over time it may balance out the cost of continually buying pure water. Rain water can be used, but there is always a risk that it may contain toxic substances and contaminants. But it is an option, depending upon where you live and how you collect it and filter it. Rain water is always soft and acidic.

Once you have the water parameters, add the plants. Any of the Echinodorus (swords) will work; for examples, see the photos of my two Amazonian tanks, the 115g and 90g, they are both full of Echinodorus species almost exclusively; quite a variety. Brazilian Pennywort although a stem plant grows well with lower light; I have it in my 115g along the rear wall near the sides. Floating plants are recommended for dwarf cichlids, it eases their natural skittishness. Although not geographically correct, Water Sprite (floating fern, Ceratopteris) works ideally; it is fast growing which means it performs very well as a water filter, and it will thrive in soft, acidic water. I have it on the surface in my 90g, while I am growing some Amazon Frogbit to replace it as a surface plant for more authenticity. Another good floating plant is Salvinia; it sort of resembles common duckweed but is much larger (though still very small) and a lovely silvery/metallic/green colour with small dangling roots. I really like this plant, but haven't yet managed to find any locally.

I hesitate to suggest fish to others, because you should have fish that you like in your aquarium. But as you've asked for possible tankmates to the rams, here goes. Cardinal tetras and rummynose tetras would be ideal, with identical water requirements, and in suitable water both these fish can sparkle like nothing else; and with floating plants to dim the light, they shine exceptionally, as it is so close to their natural habitat. There are two forms of the Cardinal, possibly two distinct species, the Brazilian and the Columbian, with a very slight difference in body shape and colouration. There are three "rummynose" species, the most common is the most colourful with more red on the head, the Hemigrammus bleheri that was discovered by and then named (by Gery) for the great explorer Heiko Bleher who happens to be a member of this forum. A similar fish to the cardinal is the green or false neon, Paracheirodon simulans, it remains smaller and the red is less intense but the neon stripe is spectacular, perfectly straight from the head to the caudal fin.

Other mid-water shoaling fish would include any of the pencilfish [the two Nannobrycon species swim at an oblique angle, the several Nannostomus species horizontal]; they can be more demanding, but so are rams in my view. And the pencils like the warmth, and require soft acidic water. Pencilfish are one of the families of characins, and tetras come from other characin families. For some lovely colour, there are several species of Hyphessobrycon that are various shades of deep red, almost brownish/red. The most beautiful may be the Roberts Tetra, formerly considered a hybrid of two other species but Gery determined this is a distinct species though to my knowledge it has not yet been scientifically described and named, so it is usually called Roberts or Robertsi Tetra. Similar in colouration and behaviour are Hyphessobrycon bentosi and H. bentosi rosaceus, the latter my personal favourite of the two for it's slightly more colourful. Similar in behaviour is the Black Phantom, Hyphessobrycon megalopteris; the males continually "challenge" one another but never with any injury. The red phantom is rarer. Another favourite of mine is Hemigrammus pulcher, sometimes called the Pretty Tetra, Wedge Tetra, or Garnet Tetra; similar to the common Head and Tail Light, but much more colourful and interesting in a thickly planted tank. This species tends to stay in the upper third of the aquarium which is good, as the rams and most of the other tetras I've mentioned prefer the lower half.

Another suggestion for upper level fish, actually surface fish, are the hatchetfish in the Carnegiella genus. These are the smaller hatchets, including the two marble species [C. strigata strigata and C. strigata fasciata] and the three silver species [C. marthae marthae, C. marthae schereri, C. myersi]. The marble hatchets are quite lovely. Hatchetfish is another fmaioy of characins; I would avoid the larger silver hatchets from the other two genera. The smaller species in Carnegiella are very social and interesting fish for the surface.

Bottom fish would be species of Corydoras that can tolerate warmer temperatures (some cannot). C. sterbai is one of these. Other catfish that remain small and inoffensive while being very different and fascinating are Farlowella (twig cat or stick cat) and the Whiptail cat, Rhineloricaria sp. Otocinclus in a group of minimum 3 will handle normal algae on the plant leaves (and elsewhere), but if you get Farlowella don't bother with Otos--the Farlowella are incredible algae eaters and one will handle the algae in a 50g easily. They do well in a group, I have three in my 90g. Corys must be in a group, minimum 3 of a species but in a 29g 4-5 would be fine, a few more in a 50g. You can check the species at Planet Catfish, a site full of good info on catfish: PlanetCatfish • the online home of aquarium catfishes You can mix species of corys (those that tolerate warmth of course) but I have found that minimum 3 of each species seems to keep them more settled.

I think this should give you some ideas to consider; search the fish through the knowledge base at Seriously Fish Knowledge Base - Seriously Fish to find photos and decide which you like; it is a good site with reliable information. The tetras, hatchets and pencils are all shoaling fish, so a group of minimum 6 of each species, whichever ones, is best; I always prefer odd numbers, no particular reason, so 7, 9 or 11 are what I aim for in shoaling fish.

Last on your question about fertilizers, with root tabs/sticks for the swords the liquid fertilizer can be less, once a week; with floating plants it is definitely needed as they have their roots in the water. I have root sticks for the big swords, and now use Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive once a week. This is one of the best general fertilizers; Kent Freshwater is another.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I believe that for now i am going to get bolivian rams.. i looked at the seriously fish knowledge base and blue ram need pH of 5-6.. i'm going to get into contact with my lfs and see if theres anything safe i can do to get my ph to that level. i love the look of the blue rams, and i would love to have them instead of the bolivian. i just want the fish which would be best for my water. for plants, if i buy this from live aquaria, would it be worth it?

Aquatic Plants for Freshwater Aquariums: Aquarium Plant Pack - Ultimate

I would be buying the one for a 55g setup. I'm going to look into plants from the amazon biotope only, but that package seems pretty cool either way.. I'm just getting way too excited, friday is payday and time to spend spend spend!


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> I believe that for now i am going to get bolivian rams.. i looked at the seriously fish knowledge base and blue ram need pH of 5-6.. i'm going to get into contact with my lfs and see if theres anything safe i can do to get my ph to that level. i love the look of the blue rams, and i would love to have them instead of the bolivian. i just want the fish which would be best for my water. for plants, if i buy this from live aquaria, would it be worth it?
> 
> Aquatic Plants for Freshwater Aquariums: Aquarium Plant Pack - Ultimate
> 
> I would be buying the one for a 55g setup. I'm going to look into plants from the amazon biotope only, but that package seems pretty cool either way.. I'm just getting way too excited, friday is payday and time to spend spend spend!


You pack your posts with too many questions/issues:shock:;-). Well, here goes...

On the pH adjustment, be very careful. Stores are notorious for suggesting the pH down chemicals (various name brands) and they are ineffective long-term and outright dangerous to the fish. If your water is 7.6 it is at that pH because the carbonate hardness buffers it; adding these pH adjusters will lower the pH immediately, then the buffer in the water will raise it back over a few hours, and then you add more... it's an almost endless cycle and the poor fish cannot cope with fluctuating pH levels to that extent. Each single degree in pH equates to a ten-fold reduction/increase in acidity of the water. That has a big effect on the internal workings of the fish, and at the least will stress them (making them susceptible to disease, etc because it weakens their immune system) or more likely kill them outright.

I think you're probably wise to go with the Bolivian ram now, build a nice display around them, and down the road you can decide on changing the water parameters by safe means, either RO water or rainwater (if it is safe to use) or peat. I would go with RO if it were me; it has an initial cost for the unit, but long-term it is very safe and reliable. If you want suggestions on the Bolivian Ram tankmates, just ask (oh dear:roll.

Now to the plants; I would not choose the "Ultimate" pack, which is the one you directly linked too; there are plants included that will be difficult in your situation. The "Deluxe" pack, of those they have, seems the best choice for your situation, except that some of these are not Amazonian plants. I didn't see any solely "Amazon" pack. Do you want a geographic aquarium (all plants and fish are from South America, specifically the Amazon basin for instance)? If so, these packs include non-Amazon plants. We can talk more of that if you like.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Sorry, I'm just trying to absorb as much info as I can since I am going to be heading to the LFS this weekend to pretty much buy everything to get it planted. Tuesday I will be starting my week off so I'll have plenty of time to get things situated. I am very interested in doing a strictly Amazon themed aquarium. But I'm basically trying to figure out which fish will inhabit my aquarium and then build the theme around their natural habitat. I'm set on Bolivian Rams for now, So the next question that I will ask you is... What other fish would accompany this fish in its natural habitat? I'm interested in getting things as close to natural as possible. I'm also interested in the plants that would naturally make the bolivian ram and its tank mates feel as comfortable as possible. I'm sorry if I'm bombarding you with questions but I am looking to get as much vital information as needed before purchasing any unnecessary items. Now that I'm thinking about it, Is the Emperor 400 going to be a good filter system for my setup? Eventually I plan on getting something like a Rena XP3. 

As for the pH issue, I'm planning to buy an RO unit within the next month or so.. For now I was planning to use Peat moss to keep the pH at an acceptable level for the blue rams just until I picked up my RO unit. Speaking of RO units, I'm lookin for one in the 200-300 dollar range, would one at that price be sufficient for my needs? I'm using it strictly for my aquarium. I have a friend who works for Eco Water and he said that the RO units which come from places such as Home Depot and other similar stores are trash. He's trying to get me a good deal on a really nice RO unit but I'd rather just get the one for two or three hundred dollars. 

As always, Thanks for your time and help Byron!


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Sorry, I'm just trying to absorb as much info as I can since I am going to be heading to the LFS this weekend to pretty much buy everything to get it planted. Tuesday I will be starting my week off so I'll have plenty of time to get things situated. I am very interested in doing a strictly Amazon themed aquarium. But I'm basically trying to figure out which fish will inhabit my aquarium and then build the theme around their natural habitat. I'm set on Bolivian Rams for now, So the next question that I will ask you is... What other fish would accompany this fish in its natural habitat? I'm interested in getting things as close to natural as possible. I'm also interested in the plants that would naturally make the bolivian ram and its tank mates feel as comfortable as possible. I'm sorry if I'm bombarding you with questions but I am looking to get as much vital information as needed before purchasing any unnecessary items. Now that I'm thinking about it, Is the Emperor 400 going to be a good filter system for my setup? Eventually I plan on getting something like a Rena XP3.
> 
> As for the pH issue, I'm planning to buy an RO unit within the next month or so.. For now I was planning to use Peat moss to keep the pH at an acceptable level for the blue rams just until I picked up my RO unit. Speaking of RO units, I'm lookin for one in the 200-300 dollar range, would one at that price be sufficient for my needs? I'm using it strictly for my aquarium. I have a friend who works for Eco Water and he said that the RO units which come from places such as Home Depot and other similar stores are trash. He's trying to get me a good deal on a really nice RO unit but I'd rather just get the one for two or three hundred dollars.
> 
> As always, Thanks for your time and help Byron!


You're most welcome. And ask away, and absorb what you can, just don't get overload.

To the Bolivian Ram, Mikrogeophagus altispinosus. This fish occurs in the Rio Mamore basin, part of the Rio Guapore system in SW Brazil. The Rio Guapore is one of the most heavily planted rivers in Amazonia, along with the Rio *****. Many rivers and streams have few if any plants, vegetation occurring as overhanging branches and roots, but in the rainy season for six months the rivers flood the surrounding forest for miles and it is then that the fish spawn amongst the plants. Echinodorus species (Amazon swords) are ideal, and some of them are usually available in good fish stores at least from time to time. E. bleheri is one of the most commonly available. With good nutrition it will get large, so probably three in your 55g would be nice, near the back/sides. The smaller E. amazonicus is almost identical except in size. The pygmy chain swords, E. tenellus or E. quadricostatus readily send out runners with daughter plants once established, and will carpet the substrate if you let them; these species are much lighter green than the two previously mentioned, a nice contrast. I have the latter species in my 115g, the foprmer in my 90g. Hydrocotyle leucocephala (Brazilian Pennywort) is an excellent stem plant as it does well in moderate light unlike some of the stem plants that readily lose their lower leaves as they grow; I have this in the corners of my 115g if you want to see what it looks like. It will also float on the surface, which is good for extra "security" to the fish.

As for tankmates, if you're going to be truly authentic there are several species of Corydoras occurring in the Rio Mamore. Corydoras sterbai, C. seussi, C. haraldschultzi, C. gossei, C. guapore, C. mamore, C. cervinus, C. *****, and several others. A group of 5 or more corys is highly recommended, same or different species; I have found that minimum 3 of each species when several species are mixed is best. Some of them prefer their own species, others shoal more with different species, all of them will usually shoal together some of the time. You could have a dozen or more corys in your 55g; I'd probably aim for 12-15 with 3, 4 or 5 of any one species, and this would depend upon your personal preference; some species are more interesting to different aquarists than others. C. sterbai seems to be a hit with everyone, it gets mentioned on this forum several times in cory discussions and is more readily available in stores. Getting hold of some of these species is not always easy, and there is a good corydoras site in Florida that other members have purchased fish from and been happy: Corys "R" Us - Aspidoras, Brochis, Corydoras, C-numbers, Scleromystax

Almost any of the characins will work in such an aquascape; being shoaling fish, they should be in groups of minimum 6 of each species, preferably more (I like 7-11 depending) of those you like. The Seriously Fish site has a very reliable knowledge base that includes information on the habitat origin of the species; here's a link to the section on tetras: Knowledge Base - Seriously Fish I always check the habitat of fish I acquire, mainly because I then have a better grasp of the water parameters and environmental factors that will ensure their health. As an example, fish from fast flowing streams (not the Rio Mamore) would obviously fare better with more water movement, and probably fewer if any plants, such as in the Rio Xingu. Streams with thick plant growth generally have slow water currents, and the fish and plants do better with minimal filtration.

Which brings me to your filter question. I have the Rena XP3 on my 115g and like it very much; you can adjust the flow. It is a fairly big filter for a 55g I think, but there are two smaller and one larger versions; I would choose the XP2 for your 55g. I have Eheims on my other tanks, for more than 12 years now. Good filters, reliable, very similar design and operation to the Rena series, but more expensive. When I needed a new filter in July I went with the Rena XP3. I'd buy it again. Less expensive than Eheim, and more readily available at least here where I live. And I like dealing with stores rather than online simply because it is easier to exchange things if there is a problem, getting media, etc. On the media, I use the Fluval media which is the same basic thing as Rena's but half the cost to buy.

I know nothing about available RO units as with my water I've never needed them. I know there are other members here that use them, I'm sure they'll have suggestions and advice.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Awesome, Awesome.. Ok, Now I've got an idea of whats what and can now start compiling the final draft of my list (plants, fish, lights and ect.) I will start now and probably be posting again later tonight with the list of plants and fish so I can get an opinion of how true to life my biotope is. Your very knowledgable and I'm always amazed at just how much you know! Genius... Thanks!


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Awesome, Awesome.. Ok, Now I've got an idea of whats what and can now start compiling the final draft of my list (plants, fish, lights and ect.) I will start now and probably be posting again later tonight with the list of plants and fish so I can get an opinion of how true to life my biotope is. Your very knowledgable and I'm always amazed at just how much you know! Genius... Thanks!


Scarcely up to that level :shock:, but thanks just the same. I sincerely do hope I'm being of some help. I will be offline after a bit, and probably not online tomorrow. I've already given you plant suggestions so you can start with that this weekend. It's fun setting up a new tank. Enjoy.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Here is my List of fish as of now

2 Bolivian Rams (Pairs if possible)
13 Neon Tetras
7 Black Neon Tetras
6 Silver Hatchetfish
4 C. Sterbai
5 C. Aeneus
6 Black Phantom Tetra

Hopefully thats not too large of a list, It will happen gradually over about 2-3 months time adding first the neon tetras, then the black phantoms, and so on as time goes.. Bolivians will probably come after black phantoms. Still working on my plant list, can you recommend a nice looking red plant to offset all the green?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Here is my List of fish as of now
> 
> 2 Bolivian Rams (Pairs if possible)
> 13 Neon Tetras
> ...


That fish collections will be fine in your 55g. Plant your tank first, as much as you can. Once planted reasonably heavily, fish can be added, not all at once, but certainly more than in a plantless-tank. I had 95 fish in my 115g the day after initially set up with no issues.

For red plants, there are red leaf swords, hybrids, that are more brownish/red than bright red, and provided light and nutrients are sufficient make a nice contrast; you can see a couple in my current 90g (flooded Amazon forest). There is also a stem plant that is very bright red, Alternanthera reineckii, that is not always easy. Red leaved plants in general require more light to do well, and I haven't tried this latter species for 20 years; I should probably give it a try in my present setup, as I had even less light all those years ago. These are native to SA which I believe is what you're after.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

My 50# Bag of Turface Pro League came in Friday. I'm going to rinse it and have it ready for wednesday when the tank setup begins.. Are there any other dwarf cichlids that would be compatible with the boli ram that would share the same water needs? I'm going to buy a light fixture tuesday and have it ready to plant wednesday hopefully. You said the regular filters that came with my emperor 400 are not going to be good for planted tanks since they contain carbon correct? someone said i could just order the clam shell frames and use a certain material for a filter. I'd like to pick at your brain a little more if you dont mind.

How many neon tetras can i add at once assuming the tank is pretty well planted, and how long after planting do i need to wait to add them?

Would a 200 watt heater be too much? I plan on buying a Marineland stealth heater


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> My 50# Bag of Turface Pro League came in Friday. I'm going to rinse it and have it ready for wednesday when the tank setup begins.. Are there any other dwarf cichlids that would be compatible with the boli ram that would share the same water needs? I'm going to buy a light fixture tuesday and have it ready to plant wednesday hopefully. You said the regular filters that came with my emperor 400 are not going to be good for planted tanks since they contain carbon correct? someone said i could just order the clam shell frames and use a certain material for a filter. I'd like to pick at your brain a little more if you dont mind.
> 
> How many neon tetras can i add at once assuming the tank is pretty well planted, and how long after planting do i need to wait to add them?
> 
> Would a 200 watt heater be too much? I plan on buying a Marineland stealth heater


On the dwarf cichlids, yes, I will root through my stuff and send you some suggestions probably tomorrow morning. There are several, just have to sort them out.

Don't know if the Emperor is good or bad, I just recommend removing the carbon in planted tanks. And you had mentioned upgrading, so I agreed the Rena XP2 would be a good choice. But the Emperor may work fine. In the 1980's I had smaller tanks (max was a 55g) with hang-on filters and liked them. The ones I had, had a filter return spout that could be directed rather than the water just falling into the tank, which allowed me to reduce the flow by aiming it along the rear wall. When I moved up to the 90g and 115g in the 1990's I was advised to go with canister for large planted tanks. There must be a pad or filter floss type material in the Emperor; that is the important part as it traps particles. You can always increase the filter floss, just don't have it so thick the water can't flow through.

I've no personal experience with the Marineland Stealth, maybe someone else here does. But a 200w is good, and in a 4-foot tank I would use two heaters, one at either end. Two 200w or two 150w. One should be positioned near the filter outflow (into the tank) so the water gets heated.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I'm debating returning the 400 for an xp2, the 400 is supposed to support up to a 90 gallon tank?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> I'm debating returning the 400 for an xp2, the 400 is supposed to support up to a 90 gallon tank?


If you can, and it were me, I would exchange. The nice benefit of a canister is being able to direct the water flow. Also, the Rena series has an adjustable flow rate which is a step better. The XP2 would work fine on your 55g.

Just my view, I have no reason to doubt the efficiency of the Emperor. I just prefer canisters on planted tanks.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

I'm going to try and find my receipt for the 400, and exchange it for the xp2.. If not i'll get the xp2 and sell the emp 400..

So far i have the following
50G tank
Stand with 80g Capacity
400 Filter to be replaced with xp2
Prime Conditioner
Turface Pro league (Red) Substrate
API Test Kit


I'll need the following
Flourish Comprehensive
48" Light Fixture (T5 or Dual Tube)
Light(s)
2 150w Marineland Stealth Heaters
Root Tabs
Filter Media??
Plants
GH/KH Test Kit
2 Hoods (Do I actually need these? I guess since some of my fish naturally jump I should have Hoods?)

I Feel as though I'm forgetting something...

What Filter media do you reccomend be placed in the 2 baskets? On YouTube I saw a video of the correct setup of a Rena xP3, I Believe it was actually a video made by Rena.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> I'm going to try and find my receipt for the 400, and exchange it for the xp2.. If not i'll get the xp2 and sell the emp 400..
> 
> So far i have the following
> 50G tank
> ...


There will be two or three media baskets (there are three on my XP3, probably only two on the XP2 which is plenty big enough). In the first (the first as the water passes through, the lowest basket in the filter housing) you put ceramic discs to gtrap the larger matter. In the basket above you can use the bacteria-colonizing media. Then there are the pads to filter out the smallest particulate matter.

If memory serves me, the Rena does not come with the media. I use the Fluval filter media in my Eheims and Rena filters because it is much the same thing and it is 1/3 the cost of Eheim and 1/2 the cost of Rena media. The Fluval ceramic discs are called "Pre Filter" and the biological media is called "BioMax". Here's a link to the site, they are the first and second items in the left column: Fluval Filter Media

The Rena does come with a black pad of carbon-like fine material that is intended to "polish" the water; I used it for one week then took it out (it loses its effectiveness, just as carbon and stuff do) and didn't replace it. Such things are not needed in a planted tank because they remove nutrients and interfere with the plants. In the same vein, one could argue that BioMAx is unnecessary; I do have it, but I will never replace it. I don't know if the black pad actually did anything to clearing the water or not, but as it was there... but not longterm.

You need some sort of complete cover, be it a hood with light fixtures or a glass cover with individual light fixtures sitting across the top on the tank frame. Fish do jump. Also, water evaporates but a glass cover keeps it mainly in the tank. And dirt and dust are kept out.

Sounds good Andrew. I haven't forgotten about the SA dwarf cichlids, been occupied lately but will post.

Byron.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Andrew, here are some possible SA dwarf cichlid species that should have no problems with your water parameters.

Apistogramma borellii
Apistogramma cacatuoides*
Apistogramma commbrae
Apistogramma eunotus*
Apistogramma hoignei
Apistogramma linkei*
Apistogramma trifasciata
Mikrogeophagus altispinosus*

I compiled this listing by researching the water parameters of the various streams and rivers where these particular species are known to live. All of these have been collected in water with a pH in the mid-7 range; the species notated with * also have the advantage of slightly harder water; the others have soft to very soft water notwithstanding the higher pH value. Some of them seem quite adaptable, such as A. eunotus that occurs in waters ranging in pH from 5.9 to 8 throughout the range covering the Rio Ucayali and upper Amazon basins; the pH of specific streams does not fluctuate between these extremes, but various streams within this extensive area have differing pH values.

You can search the individual species online for photos and further information. There may well be other newer species, as most of my cichlid reference books are not exactly recent. Some of these species will probably be next to impossible to find commercially; breeders are a good source, and can often be contacted through forums like this one or more specific cichlid forums or organizations like the American Cichlid Association. A fellow colleague and acquaintance of mine in Vancouver is Lee Newman, the Curator of Tropical Waters at the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre, and a noted authority on dwarf cichlids; when it comes time and you want to pursue this further, I may be able to ascertain a bit more from Mr. Newman; he has collected several dwarf cichlids in SA and spawned them in his home aquaria, and numerous articles by him are available online. Here's one on the Bolivian Ram:
The Cichlid Room Companion - Keeping and Breeding the Bolivian Ram, Microgeophagus altispinosa (Haseman, 1911)

Hope this is of some use to you.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Yes everything was very very helpful Byron. I read Mr. Newman's article and found it to be very helpful, and quite interesting. He stated he was able to add 4 M. Altispinosus to his 55g tank, Would having 2 M. Altispinosus, and 1 Apistogramma trifasciata be fine? I'd like to have a nice active tank. I'm going to buy a peice of black slate from my lfs thats about 3"x4" for added decor. I have a 2nd bag of Turface on the way. I'm going to ask some lfs if they have the hoods i need. Maybe i could just make some out of acrylic? if not i know one lfs can custom make aquarium products/accessories. I am very excited as i noticed one lfs listed they carry bolivian rams, i think 6 dollars each. I might make a small cave out of slate rock or something similar. One LFS in particular are very knowledgable so I'm going to try and pick at their brain for some layout ideas and what not. They have a beautiful African Cichlid aquarium, i think its a 75g maybe bigger, but its absolutely gorgeous!! Thanks for your help, I am buying some stuff to remodel my room so i am having to push back my aquarium by about 2 weeks lol. I'll keep you updated, I'm ordering a Single bulb 48" T5 light fixture tomorrow, would that be a correct one for my setup?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

andrewr2488 said:


> Yes everything was very very helpful Byron. I read Mr. Newman's article and found it to be very helpful, and quite interesting. He stated he was able to add 4 M. Altispinosus to his 55g tank, Would having 2 M. Altispinosus, and 1 Apistogramma trifasciata be fine? I'd like to have a nice active tank. I'm going to buy a piece of black slate from my lfs thats about 3"x4" for added decor. I have a 2nd bag of Turface on the way. I'm going to ask some lfs if they have the hoods i need. Maybe i could just make some out of acrylic? if not i know one lfs can custom make aquarium products/accessories. I am very excited as i noticed one lfs listed they carry bolivian rams, i think 6 dollars each. I might make a small cave out of slate rock or something similar. One LFS in particular are very knowledgable so I'm going to try and pick at their brain for some layout ideas and what not. They have a beautiful African Cichlid aquarium, i think its a 75g maybe bigger, but its absolutely gorgeous!! Thanks for your help, I am buying some stuff to remodel my room so i am having to push back my aquarium by about 2 weeks lol. I'll keep you updated, I'm ordering a Single bulb 48" T5 light fixture tomorrow, would that be a correct one for my setup?


Responding in reverse order...

Light tube is fine, make sure it is a full spectrum tube. In my experience, the Hagen Life-Glo 2 is the best single tube. Zoo Med make a similar but it's not available in T5.

I have glass covers on my tanks, bought from the fish store. They will fit down inside the frame, resting on that lip that runs around the inside of the tank frame. The the light fixture sits over the cover, the ends resting on the frame. The front glass panels slide back for feeding. These are not expensive and have worked well for me for 15 years, better than the plastic hoods. They also allow you more freedom to change lighting if you decide to in future. The glass must be taken off and cleaned every week (at the pwc) as water evaporates during the night and collects on the glass, then during the day the lights evaporate it from the glass, and minerals are left behind. Cleaning it weekly with just a towel will usually prevent mineral deposits from building up which not only block out the light but are very difficult to remove if they "burn" in.

Apistogramma species should not be maintained as single fish, always either a pair or a group, depending upon the species. A. trifasciata is one of the species that does better in a group of one male with 2-3 females. While this species can be maintained in slightly basic (alkaline) water, my reference notes that the fins develop much longer and the fish is generally in better overall health if the water is slightly acidic. I included it in the previous list because it is said to manage in basic water, but in fairness I point this out.

Mikrogeophagus altispinosus is one of the few (maybe the only) dwarf cichlid that fares quite well as single fish. I have had one in my 115g for more than a year now, and he (it wasn't clear at first, too small, but now he is clearly a male, and quite beautiful) is always out and about and seems very content. The tank is large enough that I am considering another one or maybe two, females if I can tell. Two M. altispinosus with a trio of Apistogramma (whichever species) would work fine in your 55g.

Byron.


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## andrewr2488 (Sep 20, 2009)

Heres a little update. Project has hit a slight deciding point. After seeing how amazing the African Cichlid tank at the LFS was, I've come to a stand still to give myself time to decide if i want to do a planted SA tank, or a African tank...


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## Angel079 (Feb 14, 2007)

See that's exactly how I had winded up with 6 tanks before...You start design/ set up 1...then see more cool ideas...so then you set up a second one...and so on....trust me even if you think you'll like these 2 different set up's now, if you HAD both of them, you'd find a 3rd one you'd love too


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