# My 55G Journal!



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK, I've got the 55G set up and running. Had to wait on the canister filter so I'm running the Aqua-Tech 30-60 filter. Am going to try and keep up with the cycle and keep a log of photos as I go. In the photo below the red arrow indicates the shrimp prawn in the stocking for the "fishless" cycle technique. The water looks blue due to being cloudy and my cameras white balance being off. I've added API Stress Zyme to help jump start the cycle too. I also added Seachums Flourish for the small swords I've got planted. I will add the Flourish and Stress Zyme as per directions. I will keep a log on the water test results as I go too.

Water test Results - Day 2

PH = 7.6
Hard PH = 8.2
Ammonia = almost .25 ppm
Nitrite = 0 ppm
Nitrate = 0 ppm


----------



## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

Nice start. I can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## rjwwrx (Sep 30, 2011)

I like the hardscape, nice job with the rocks.


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

x2

love the river rocks.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

My one suggestion at this stage would be to narrow in on one of the pH tests, not using both. Otherwise, this can get complicated. The one to use is the one that is closest to your tap water pH. Confirm the probable pH with your water supply people, and use the test that corresponds in range.

When testing pH of tap water, always allow the CO2 to outgas for a more accurate reading. This is done by letting a glass of water sit out overnight, or you can put some tap water in a jar (say 1/4 full, not much) with a lid and shake it vigorously. This causes to CO2 to dissipate out of the water and the pH test will be closer.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Thanks Byron! Will do!


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

UPDATE: No one told me that doing the fishless cycle with shrimp thing was going to STINK! LOL Oh man! Pheeeew!!!


----------



## BobtheSnail (Oct 6, 2011)

Lol congrats on the tank! I look forward to watching it!


----------



## Tazman (Jan 15, 2012)

Alternate method would be to get some pure ammonia solution found at many hardware stores. You want stuff with NO surfactants in.

It ultimately will give you more beneficial bacteria and will be less smelly than using a shrimp / prawn..decaying anything for that matter 

Aquascape looks great by the way.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Thanks for the compliments guys! I am considering the pure ammonia deal, bc this stuff really is starting to stick up the living room!

I also left a glass of tap water out over night and will do a PH test on it this evening.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

55G - Day 4 of Cycle~

HRPH = 8.0
PH = 7.6
Ammonia = 1.0 ppm
Nitrite = 0 ppm
Nitrate = 0 ppm

Tap water left out over night PH = 7.6


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> 55G - Day 4 of Cycle~
> 
> HRPH = 8.0
> PH = 7.6
> ...


Which test kit read 7.6 for tap water overnight?


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

I don't follow Byron??? I use the API water test kit for testing...


----------



## wannalearn (Jan 22, 2011)

what byron is saying is that you dont use the ph test kit, and the high range ph.. the results wont add up, that is why your getting one at 7.6 and one at 8.. what he was trying to tell you is, get ahold of your city/county water supply, and ask them your ph level, and use the corresponding test kit.. not both..


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

ah! I'll do that today then! Thanks guys!


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK guys after giving me the run around and 4 phone calls later I get hold of a guy who can only tell me what the PH level of my tap water is at the WELL. He says it's right at 8.0 or just above. My tap PH after sitting in a glass over night is 7.6. Where do I go from here? TIA!

Steve


----------



## MinaMinaMina (Aug 28, 2011)

Which test did you use on the the glass of tap water, the High Range pH or regular pH?


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Yes, we need to know that. Since the source water seems to be around 8, and the high range test gives that number, you should be using the high range for all tests from now on.

When the pH is above the range of a test kit, such as being higher than the highest range on the basic test kit in this case, any pH above that number will be that number. Example, if you are using a test kit with a range of 6.6 to 7.6 and the pH of the water being tested is 8, 8.6, or 9, the test will show it as 7.6 because that is as high as the range goes. But using a high range test kit with say a range of 7.5 to 9 will show the correct pH within that range. This works in reverse too, for low pH.

So if you used the high range test on the source water and it is 8, and you used this same test for the tank, the result should tell you the tank pH accurately.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK, I'm sorry if it's taking me some time to get this stuff down. I used the reg PH test on the tap, I have another glass that sat out all last night I can go and run the high PH test on it. The guy said it is 8.0 or just a bit higher at the well but said that it would be different at my tap bc of chlorine etc added by the city water dept? Sooo, do I use the high PH for all my tanks or the reg PH given this info? And thanks again for this ACTIVE forum with great ACTIVE members!

Steve


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

so this is simply a way of determining WHICH PH test I should be using right, according to my water supply? Am I getting this now? This is not so much about what my PH is in the tank (this thread I'm talking about) but what test I should be using to get the RIGHT PH of my tanks? Right? Right...?? LOL

going to do a HR PH test on the glass of water right now, BRB with results!

OK here we are: a solid 8.0 on the HR PH. The API HR PH test ranges from 7.4 to 8.8 so I guess it's safe to say my tap is 8.0 PH right? 

So my next question is do I try and maintain this PH level in my tank from this point on? Or I'm thinking I adjust according to the fish species requirements right? I haven't decided on what fish yet for the 55G so I'd be better off maintenance wise to keep fish that tolerate that particular 8.0 PH level correct? Man there is SO MUCH MORE to this fish keeping than when I was younger, but I have to say I LOVE IT! Makes it much more interesting if you ask me!

And I'm sorry I just didn't get what you guys were trying to get out of me. I get it now! Thanks again Byron!

Steve


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> so this is simply a way of determining WHICH PH test I should be using right, according to my water supply? Am I getting this now? This is not so much about what my PH is in the tank (this thread I'm talking about) but what test I should be using to get the RIGHT PH of my tanks? Right? Right...?? LOL
> 
> going to do a HR PH test on the glass of water right now, BRB with results!
> 
> Steve


Yes. As I indicated earlier, using the "wrong" test will not give accurate results. And the "correct" test is the one that matches the tap water. If you test the tap water with both tests, they will be different; the one closest to what the water supply fellow said is the pH will be the test to use on the tank.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Funk growing on the shrimp sock, normal?


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK guys couldn't take it anymore. The smell is all over the house! And it's really that bad! Chunked the "funk" and am getting a bottle of pure ammonia this afternoon and will continue in that direction!


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> OK guys couldn't take it anymore. The smell is all over the house! And it's really that bad! Chunked the "funk" and am getting a bottle of pure ammonia this afternoon and will continue in that direction!


Are you planning on having live plants? If you are, you can avoid all this stuff and just plant the tank and add some fish. I'll explain if asked. I have set up dozens of new tanks and I never "cycle" because I have a lot of plants.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Yes Byron I have 5 small swords planted already. I got 2 water sprites in today and have them still in pots sitting on the bottom of the tank and also some wisteria floating on top right now. This week I have a dozen or more vals coming in the mail for the tank too. I did read up on the planted tank in the sticky notes. Maybe that's an easier way to go for me? I bought the ammonia but haven't added any to the tank yet. I'll hold off until I hear back from you. I'm in no rush, just want to do it right.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> Yes Byron I have 5 small swords planted already. I got 2 water sprites in today and have them still in pots sitting on the bottom of the tank and also some wisteria floating on top right now. This week I have a dozen or more vals coming in the mail for the tank too. I did read up on the planted tank in the sticky notes. Maybe that's an easier way to go for me? I bought the ammonia but haven't added any to the tank yet. I'll hold off until I hear back from you. I'm in no rush, just want to do it right.


First thing, I would not add pure ammonia to a tank with live plants. Ammonia is highly toxic to all life, be it plant or fish/animal. I'm not suggesting the level would get that high, but in my view it is best avoided.

It is so easy to set up a new tank that is planted. Just have lots of plants, including fast growing species. And Vallisneria, swords are in that category. Even better are floating plants. True floating plants like those in the profiles, but also many stem plants can be used floating and work equally well for this.

I would do a major water change to get rid of the ammonia/shrimp issue, add the new plants (dechlorinate the new water as you likely have some bacteria establishing). Then add a few fish. As this is your first time, go easy; the hardier fish but something you want, not a "cycling" fish or anything. I don't know what fish you intend for this tank, so I can't suggest which or how many at this point.

I reset my 115g last summer, and with new substrate and new filter media, I had all 95 fish back in the tank the next day. But I knew i had sufficient plants, plus I used much of the old wood which would have bacteria on it. Go slow and this will not fail.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK sounds like a plan! I will do the water change tomorrow and add the plants mentioned. I also just purchased 10 dwarf sag plants and java fern to add too. I'm in no rush for the fish just yet. I'm leaning towards the cichlids but don't they eat plants? Oh and no ammonia added nor will I at this point! One more thing, I think I "might" have too much suibstrate? It's right at 2 inches, maybe a tad more> Is that too deep?

Steve


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> OK sounds like a plan! I will do the water change tomorrow and add the plants mentioned. I also just purchased 10 dwarf sag plants and java fern to add too. I'm in no rush for the fish just yet. I'm leaning towards the cichlids but don't they eat plants? Oh and no ammonia added nor will I at this point! One more thing, I think I "might" have too much suibstrate? It's right at 2 inches, maybe a tad more> Is that too deep?
> 
> Steve


Two inches is fine. You can push some of it a bit deeper in the back where larger-root plants will naturally be, and leave maybe an inch along the front. Rock and wood can be used to create these "terraces." Is it gravel or sand? Either will work, just asking.

Which cichlids? Many will not eat plants. Larger ones may uproot some.


----------



## AbbeysDad (Mar 28, 2011)

I don't wanna be a kill joy here, but the hoods like a lot like mine that 'feature' 1, 18", 15w florescent bulb in each of the two hoods. If so, this would likely be insufficient to support many rooted plant types.???


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

No kill joy here! It's all a learning process for me! What bulbs do you recommend? And Byron, it's a gravel substrate.


----------



## AbbeysDad (Mar 28, 2011)

PonyMan said:


> No kill joy here! It's all a learning process for me! What bulbs do you recommend? And Byron, it's a gravel substrate.


Do you have just two 18" florescent tubes and what is the wattage and kelvin rating?


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Found it! I knew I read a sticky note somewhere here about lighting! I'm going to see about getting two 18" T12 bulbs today. I can't afford the $100.00 bulbs I've seen advertised.


----------



## AbbeysDad (Mar 28, 2011)

PonyMan said:


> Found it! I knew I read a sticky note somewhere here about lighting! I'm going to see about getting two 18" T12 bulbs today. I can't afford the $100.00 bulbs I've seen advertised.


So you have T12's ? - mine came with 18" F15/T8 bulbs.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

I can't find T12 bulbs anywhere! Do you have to order these online or something?


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> I can't find T12 bulbs anywhere! Do you have to order these online or something?


T8 are better than T12. But before we go into that, what fixture do you have? AD was correct earlier, so let's sort this out. Giove us the tank size (length) and the length of the fluorescent tubes. [ I'm assuming there are two of them.] Then we can consider tubes or other options.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

No, mine came with the same you have, I thought I could put in the T12s? No??

Sorry just getting these threads guys. I have exatly what AbbysDad has, the 18" T8 15Watts. My bulbs read "Eclipse F15T8 Natural daylight". So to upgrade bulbs I need different fixtures or is there another bulb that's better for the fixtures I have now?


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

P.S. on a side note: can I tie java fern to large rocks also instead of driftwood?


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

Going from a T8 to a T12 will usually NOT work, not fit, and would be going backwards. The bigger T12 bulb is less efficient and actually produces less light, watt for watt. I would stick to the T8.

To upgrade you would be going to a double tube, or T5, both of which would require custom mods or a new fixture.


im trying to think. I have a 4 foot strip light with 2 24" bulbs in it, i believe they are F17T8. Thats not much more power than your F15T8s and I have 2 humongus Echinodorus sword plants, rotala wallichii, hornwort, red crypt, and a ton of java fern.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> No, mine came with the same you have, I thought I could put in the T12s? No??
> 
> Sorry just getting these threads guys. I have exatly what AbbysDad has, the 18" T8 15Watts. My bulbs read "Eclipse F15T8 Natural daylight". So to upgrade bulbs I need different fixtures or is there another bulb that's better for the fixtures I have now?


To summarize: This is a 4-foot 55g tank (standard 55), with a fixture holding two 18-inch regular (T8) tubes. This will give you low to moderate light. The "moderate" may be quite low. When I had a 55g, it had one 48-inch T8 (or back then it was T12) tube and I managed to grow basic swords and floating plants. But a 48-inch T8 is more light than two 18-inch T8 tubes.

The tubes you have now are likely fine as far as their spectrum, and probably about the best for the fixture. Plants will be limited to low and low/moderate light types. Do you want to stay with this, or upgrade to a new fixture? As you have what's there now, you can go with it and see; it may do fine, and if not you could consider changing. This would mean a new light fixture (taking one or two 48-inch tubes) plus a new glass cover. I'm assuming the current light fixtures are part of a tank hood.

Byron.


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

PonyMan said:


> P.S. on a side note: can I tie java fern to large rocks also instead of driftwood?


aye.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK I will just stick with what lighting I have and see where that goes. It is the standard 48" 55G Byron. I've drained the tank down to about 8 inches of water or so above the substrate and have been planting (farming? LOL) all day. Added a nice large java fern and did attach it to a rock, thanks beetlebz! I guess it will attach itself sooner or later. Added a few more amazon swords. Planted the water sprite in the substrate and have some floating too. I have about 12 plus italian vals and about 10 dwarf sag on the way. Should be in about mid next week and will plant those and fill the tank back up and start from there! Oh and even added a very nice anubias as a bonus that I hadn't planned on buying. Attached it to a rock also, as I have no wood in the tank. Thanks for all the help walking me through this guys. I'll keep everyone posted again when I get the other plants coming in planted and the tank filled once again!

Steve


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Update: Just purchased the canister filter I've been wanting to get. SunSun 370GPH with the UV light. Should be plenty for the 55Gs needs. Still waiting on a few more plants to come in and will plant them, then refill the tank and hook up the new canister filter and will be up and running. Will post more photos as I progress!

Steve


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Also found a decent deal on a 48 inch overhead light fixture with 2 T5 bulbs, 1 T5 54W 10000K lamp and 1 T5 54W Actinic lamp. What is an Actinic lamp?? Would this suit my needs for the 55G?


----------



## Maxillius (Sep 27, 2011)

PonyMan said:


> Also found a decent deal on a 48 inch overhead light fixture with 2 T5 bulbs, 1 T5 54W 10000K lamp and 1 T5 54W Actinic lamp. What is an Actinic lamp?? Would this suit my needs for the 55G?


this type of lamp is for salt water aquariums where the blue light from 10 k and actinic make its look good
I would recommend keeping the 10 k and changing the actinic to a 6000-7000 k bulb like life-glo
or any bulb in the range, plants will grow with 10 k light but will do better and look better with the addition of a 6500 k bulb!


----------



## rjwwrx (Sep 30, 2011)

I would be careful with adding two t5 ho bulbs to your tank unless you plan to add co2. You could have problems balancing nutrients with that much light. maybe go for a dual t8 fixture instead.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK thanks for the info guys! I'm wanting one of those lamp fixtures that go across the entire tank and remove the stock hood etc. I didn't see any T8s like that so thought the T5 better, but don't want to unbalance the tank. I'll remember to stick with T8s no matter which way I go with the lights! I'm going to get this thing set the way I want sooner or later! LOL


----------



## rjwwrx (Sep 30, 2011)

Guess it depends on what you have available locally but to get a dual t8 fixture you'll probably need to shop on line. I know drfostersmith.com carries one. Or if you want to save some $$$ you can go with a 48" shop light. I recently did this over my 55g and couldn't be happier with the results.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Yes, a dual T5 fixture will be too much. And you cannot use T8 tubes in a T5, or vice-versa, so the fixture has to be for regular T8 tubes. Also, with two T5 tube fixtures, usually both tubes have to be on, you can't only use one, unless they are switched separately. One T5 tube would be OK, but not both. You should be able to return the fixture if you got it.

It is interesting that most of the technical advances in this hobby are geared to salt water, and no where moreso than in the lighting. Getting brighter light with fewer tubes is how the T5's came along, developed for reef setups. But for those of us with freshwater, this is too much light.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Thanks Byron. I'm going to slow down and stick with what I have for now. Just thought I had a sweet deal with the T5s, not knowing they would be more powerful causing me to have to add more of everything else just to keep up with the lights. I just bought some bio balls and some more ceramic bio media for the canister filter I have coming. Still have plants I'm waiting on to get here too: pennywort, amazon frogbit, italian vals and the dwarf sag. Right now I have 5 amazon swords, 2 watersprite, 1 java fern and 1 anubias already planted in the tank. All together I think that'll do me for a while til the tank cycles through. I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me! I'll post pics when I get it set up with everything. Still thinking about what fish to add but am in no hurry for that part right now.

Steve


----------



## BobtheSnail (Oct 6, 2011)

Ooh, I love Amazon Frogbit! I'm planning on getting some soon as well 

Sorry, I just_ love_ how that stuff looks...

*Continues lurking*


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK got the 55G planted and up and running again. Not really satisfied with the layout but was tired of looking at the tank half full waiting on the plants. I'll add more plants as time passes to get it to a heavily planted stage. I don't consider this heavily planted. Going to let the tank cycle like it is, add fish and take it from there. The water isn't green, just looks it from the light coming through the green vals curled over on top. Got the canister filter hooked up and running too!


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Also Byron you mentioned that fish could possibly be added to a planted tank sooner than a non planted tank? How soon? I mean as soon as the water tests show good cycled water perimeters right? Just will happen sooner with live plants than without? I have 6 corys I'm wanting to add to the 55G but not sure what you meant when you said that. Can you explain that to me again? Thanks!


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> Also Byron you mentioned that fish could possibly be added to a planted tank sooner than a non planted tank? How soon? I mean as soon as the water tests show good cycled water perimeters right? Just will happen sooner with live plants than without? I have 6 corys I'm wanting to add to the 55G but not sure what you meant when you said that. Can you explain that to me again? Thanks!


You won't see any "cycle" with live plants. They simply grab all the ammonia/ammonium they can, and that is it. The nitrifying bacteria will establish but in smaller numbers and with our basic test kits you will not detect nitrite. Nitrate maybe, but I wouldn't expect it unless the tank is overloaded or it is in the source (tap) water.

You can add some fish now. What Cory species? Some are more sensitive.

I just redid my 29g Monday, when I finally got myself motivated to wash the new playsand.:| So new substrate, cleaned the sponge filters under the tap, filled the tank, planted the plants, then left it until Wednesday when I moved in the fish. And some pretty sensitive fish too. Wild caught Corydoras pygmaeus and Corydoras habrosus, Nannostomus rubrocaudatus, and Copella nigrofasciata. I have had all these in other tanks for several months. Now, I had those plants and several chunks of wood in existing tanks, so undoubtedly bacteria went over with all that. To someone doing this from scratch, I would just go easy on the first fish, few, out of caution.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

I've got 4 peppered corys and two shwartz(sp?) corys, I could add them now you think?


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> I've got 4 peppered corys and two shwartz(sp?) corys, I could add them now you think?


Yes, if you have a few hours before lights out. I prefer adding fish when they will still have a few hours of light (tank lights) to get used to the new digs.:lol:


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

yeup and they love it! The males are driving the female like when they were laying eggs about 2 weeks ago! I guess dey like it! LOL Thanks Byron


----------



## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

Byron said:


> I just redid my 29g Monday, when I finally got myself motivated to wash the new playsand.:| So new substrate, cleaned the sponge filters under the tap, filled the tank, planted the plants, then left it until Wednesday when I moved in the fish. And some pretty sensitive fish too. Wild caught Corydoras pygmaeus and Corydoras habrosus, Nannostomus rubrocaudatus, and Copella nigrofasciata. I have had all these in other tanks for several months. Now, I had those plants and several chunks of wood in existing tanks, so undoubtedly bacteria went over with all that. To someone doing this from scratch, I would just go easy on the first fish, few, out of caution.


I know what you mean Bryon, I just added more sand today. Cleaning it is no fun.


----------



## MinaMinaMina (Aug 28, 2011)

Am I the only one who likes washing sand? I must be a wingnut. :demented: Oh, wait- we already knew that.

Nice looking tank, PonyMan! I think you'll make some fishies pretty happy.


----------



## Jayy (Dec 23, 2009)

minaminamina said:


> am i the only one who likes washing sand? I must be a wingnut. :demented: Oh, wait- we already knew that.


lol


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Soooo tempting!

48 108W 2x54 Fluorescent T5 HO Aquarium Light Strip Hood Marine Reef Plant 6700K | eBay

and this one too...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-T5-HO-Aq...ltDomain_0&hash=item460118176f#ht_1460wt_1110


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> Soooo tempting!
> 
> 48 108W 2x54 Fluorescent T5 HO Aquarium Light Strip Hood Marine Reef Plant 6700K | eBay
> 
> ...


Both of those would be far too much light over this tank. And you cannot have the tubes on individually, both have to be in and on for the unit to light. I do not recommend these for freshwater. T5 HO lighting was developed primarily for marine systems where more light is needed over reef tanks [one of these has the word "Marine" in it] with fewer tubes than was possible previously. We freshwater aquarists manage better with the standard T8 tubes. I tried this, and after a week took it back for a T8. The way my fish looked at me, I thought I could hear them begging me for sunglasses.:lol:


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

Yea that's why I'm staying away from them Byron. Also the only bulbs that I can find for the 48" are T12s. I'm finding that the T8s are smaller bulbs, not just in length but in circumference. Am I not finding the T8s in the larger sizes or is that just the way they come?


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

PonyMan said:


> Yea that's why I'm staying away from them Byron. Also the only bulbs that I can find for the 48" are T12s. I'm finding that the T8s are smaller bulbs, not just in length but in circumference. Am I not finding the T8s in the larger sizes or is that just the way they come?


"T" refers to the diameter of the tube, in eighths of an inch. So a T12 is 12/8 or 1.25 inches diameter, a T8 is 8/8 or 1 inch, a T5 is 5/8 inch, etc. I have also seen a T10 which I believe fits a T8 fixture. The T5 requires only a T5 fixture, and nothing else works in it either.

The T8 tubes are more energy efficient than the older T12. Always get T8 if you can. T8 and T12 (and likely T10) will all work in the newer T8 (standard) fixtures. I have one older fixture on one tank, and the T8 tubes work but they flicker for a few minutes before lighting. This I understand is due to the older ballast or something. I have used T12 and T8 tubes in my fixtures, depending what I buy. Most manufacturers are now making T8 and not T12. My older Phillips were T12, but the last ones I got at Home Depot were T8. Same tube, just more efficient. And the intensity does not decrease quite as fast with the T8 over T12.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

all the 48 inch daylight 6500K and even the sunlight 5000K bulbs in the Lowes store here are all T12s. So they make the T8s in 48 inch?


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

they do indeed. Actually, im considering rewiring my 55g tank light (uses 2 24" T8s) to use one long T8, because daylight 48" T8s are easier to get here than 24" daylight T8s, for some reason, but I havent checked my local lowes yet. If you cant find those bulbs, ask someone. They may be hiding, but im sure they can get you some.

Byron, if you have the old style twist lock fluorescent starters in your fixture, the starter needs to be replaced. The starter is supposed to redirect the current, so instead of the power being run through the length of the light, it runs it just from pin to pin on the end, which is why the ends fire up first. Once the gas is "preheated" the starter kicks out forcing the current to travel through the gas, the length of the tube. Excessive flickering usually indicates a failing starter, though if the starter hasnt been out in a long time, you can do damage to the sockets trying to force it. When my starters go, I replace the ballast with a new one. FWIW.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

beetlebz said:


> they do indeed. Actually, im considering rewiring my 55g tank light (uses 2 24" T8s) to use one long T8, because daylight 48" T8s are easier to get here than 24" daylight T8s, for some reason, but I havent checked my local lowes yet. If you cant find those bulbs, ask someone. They may be hiding, but im sure they can get you some.
> 
> Byron, if you have the old style twist lock fluorescent starters in your fixture, the starter needs to be replaced. The starter is supposed to redirect the current, so instead of the power being run through the length of the light, it runs it just from pin to pin on the end, which is why the ends fire up first. Once the gas is "preheated" the starter kicks out forcing the current to travel through the gas, the length of the tube. Excessive flickering usually indicates a failing starter, though if the starter hasnt been out in a long time, you can do damage to the sockets trying to force it. When my starters go, I replace the ballast with a new one. FWIW.


Thanks. I will simply replace the fixture when it does go, the glass under the light is broken off at one end a couple bits, and this was one of those complete plastic hoods. The T12 din't flicker, only the T8, although I'm going from memory. May be co-incidence of course.


----------



## PonyMan (Jan 13, 2012)

OK, so on a whim decided to just go with some easy mainenance fishys for the 55G! I'm satified with them. I bought 3 dalmation mollies and 3 cherry barbs. Only 3 cherry barbs bc that's all they had LOL! I plan on getting about 9 total for the tank. Photos below of the new fishys! Some of my Cory Cats too!


----------

