# Hippo Tang w Ich



## ERDoclovesfish (Feb 6, 2009)

Noted small white spots on the body and eye of my Hippo Tang last week. The remainder of the fish did not exhibit similar signs. All fish are feeding well. 90 Gallon FOWLR w the following Parameters pH 8.3, DK 7.5, SG 1.021, Amm 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Ca 460. I removed him and placed him in a 10 gallon QT Tank and have been performing 20 Gallon water changes every other day for 5 days now. The Parameters in the QT Tank are pH 8.0, SG 1.012, Amm 0.25, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. The fish in the main tank (Maroon Clownfish, Yellow Tang and Dwarf Lionfish) still are wout signs of Parasite w stable water Parameters and hardy apetites. The white spots on the Hippo Tang are just about gone, However He appears Lethargic and isn't eating well. The QT Tank has a basic HOW filter, Air Pump and some PVC pipes for hiding (No substrate). All feeds in both tanks are placed in Garlic. Questions:

1. Was removing him the right thing to do?

2. Having a difficult time keeping the parameters in the QT Tank stable and the Hippo Tang which previously was acting fine now is lethargic. Should I assume the parasite is in the main tank despite the remaining fish not exhibiting signs?

3. If yes to 2, would it be better to reintroduce the Tang into the main tank given more stable water parameters? (That's assuming the parasite is already in the main tank).

4. What works better, Hyposalinity or Copper? Can both be utilized?

5. Will Copper destroy my Biologic Filter if I re-Introduce the Hippo Tang and go w Copper Therapy instead?

6. If yes to 5, would a product Like Bio-Spira allow me to Re-establish a Bio Filter once the fish are adequately treated?


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

Without a doubt, this is classic ich. Yes, your display tank has ich also. Luckily the other fish are resisting the disease. If you continue feeding with garlic in the display, you may never see ich appear on the fish. I would wait a minimum of 90 days prior to adding any fish to the display.

The quarantine tank has a big problem, which is the ammonia. You need to get this down immediately. I do not see moving the Hippo Tang back to the display as being an option. This is a horrible idea, regardless of the water parameters in the quarantine. I suggest trying to seed the quarantine with established bacteria from the display. I would do this by adding a handfull of sand from the display to the quarantine. In the meanwhile, until the ammonia drops, do daily water changes to keep ammonia in check.

I would suggest raising the temperature to 84F, increase water movement to aid in oxygenation of the water, and lowering salinity to 1.013 gradually over the next few days. I would not treat a Tang with copper.

Quick answers to a complicated topic. Good luck!!


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## ERDoclovesfish (Feb 6, 2009)

Is it a problem that the parasite exists in the main tank? Any merit in treating the main tank even if no fish within are exhibiting signs of Ich?


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

I would not treat the main tank. I think it would be a huge mistake to do so, given that no fish are showing signs. In small cases such as this, healthy fish will have a nice slime coat which is enough to resist the disease. Unfortunately, Tangs do not have a slime coat, which makes them extremely prone to ich outbreaks.


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## ERDoclovesfish (Feb 6, 2009)

Thanks. One more question (Actually 3). 1. The spots are gone and the fish seems more energetic. How long without Signs until I can re-introduce him into the main tank? 2. I treated w hyposalinity (SG 1.010). When should I slowly start raising the SG? 3. Can Cooper be used in conjunction w hyposalinity?


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