# True Perc Acclimation



## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

Hey all, been a while since I've been on, busy with work and school starting up... glad to be back tho =)

So last night, picked up a Maroon Clown, and Coral Beauty for my 90 Gal, and a True Percula for my 12 Gal nano. The Beauty and Maroon in the 90 went fine, they started exploring a little after about 15 min in the tank.

The Perc on the otherhand, is kinda worrying me. When I put him in, he was calm, checked out his tank a little and kept doing that till I went to bed about 20 min later.

Woke up this morning, and the little guy is on crack. He continuously swims laps around the tank, up and down. I tried feeding him some mysis shrimp, and he ignored and kept going at it. I have never acclimated a clown other than the Maroon I mentioned..

So should I be worried? or just give him some time and see if he slows down finally?

Thanks!


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

No. This is a very bad sign. Test for pH immediately. If this is not the issue, test for ammonia. I will check back quickly.


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

At work right now. I'll have the GF run tests for ammonia and nitrates.. pickin up a new PH tester on the way home. Thanks for the reply.


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

OK, so..

Ammonia = .25

Nitrates = 20

I dont know why they are that high, last week they tested good. Well.. looks like a water change. Thinks its still needed to do a Ph test? Or is this the culprit?


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

I would want to do a full range of tests to get my arms around this situation. pH and alkalinity could be critical in this discussion as well. For ammonia to spike after adding a single fish makes me question the maturity of the aquarium. How long as the 12 gallon nano been set up? What equipment, etc?


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

As of now, its been about 8 months. Bought it off a guy on craiglist fully setup and stocked. Came with a Yellowtail Damsel and an Ocellaris. Moved the Damsel due to obvious reasons, and about 3 weeks ago I found the clown dried up on the floor. All I added to the tank was a cleaner shrimp about 2 weeks after purchase. All levels had been fine till now.

Equipment:
BioCube Protein Skimmer, Aqueon Heater, A non-factory light hood.

Livestock:
(1) True Perc, (1) Cleaner Shrimp, 3 small Kenya Trees (sprouted off a 5 inch tree that I moved to the parent's 90 gallon to help ensure I had enough room for the clown), zoos with about 12 heads, watermelon mushroom with about 5 heads/polyps, another mushroom type with about 6 heads/polyps, and a green candy cane, Blue legged hermit, and a turbo snail.

The numbers were fine even after the first clown jumped out, tested afterward to see if there were any problems. I haven't added anything except the shrimp and clown. 

As for the status, I did a 1.5 gallon water change upon arriving home. Ammonia back to 0ppm, nitrates down to about 5-7 ish. Nitrites 0, ph 8.3.

The fish has mellowed way out since this morning. Still acting up a little, but is usually relaxing by my candy canes. He also ate when I fed him this evening, unlike last night and this morning. 

Also, it seems as tho as he/she is always against the glass, every so often something will float by and hell bite at it.. is it possible it wants another clown?


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

Fish often press against the glass when stressed. This is not unusual. Adding another clown clown would be very high risk in a small aquarium.

It sounds like things are settling down to normal. That your fish ate is a very big positive. I suspect that your ammonia will drop back to zero today or tomorrow. If I had to form a theory, I would say that your alkalinity is low, allowing for the pH to bounce overnight to a lower level than normal, causing stress on a newly introduced fish. 

A lot of hobbyists do not realize that pH is not a fixed number. There is a pH range that occurs every day, based on the light cycle, with the pH being at its lowest point immediately prior to turning on the lights. This can be even more enhanced in a small aquarium with bright lights. Testing for alkalinity will help you control the pH swing. You adjust alkalinity with a buffer. You add buffers based on the calcium test results, adding either a carbonate buffer or calcium chloride, to balance the major salt ions that make up saltwater. Every marine hobbyist needs to be testing for alkalinity and calcium weekly for the purpose of maintaining a stable environment that resembles the natural ionic balance of the ocean. You did not post an alkalinity result, so I am guessing that this is not part of your routine.


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

No, its not, at least till now. Will pick up some more test solution on the way home. Probably just pick up another API master reef kit.

Are there any buffers that you would recommend??

Thanks for all the help so far with this situation too, Pasfur.


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

I personally use Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH and Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Chloride. You need both, because the entire buffer system depends on the relationship of calcium to the other buffering ions. 

I aim to keep my alkalinity at 8-12 dkh and Calcium at 400-460ppm.


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## Arkamaic (May 28, 2009)

Ok, well great news. Clown has finally hosted on the mushrooms in the center of my tank. =D movements are much smoother, and well as slower. It's awesome that it hosted. my last one didn't.

And perfect. Thats what the LFS recommended as well. So I got it, and plan on aiming towards those numbers there. =D


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