# What's the right size Quarantine Tank



## shaggylawson (Dec 28, 2009)

I do not currently have a QT and now that my main tank is just about right I can focus on a QT. I do not have a lot of room to have another large tank, so what is the minimum size QT I can get away with?


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## wake49 (Jul 2, 2008)

I use a 20 tall, but I think that a 29 gallon would have been a better option...


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

I guess the answer is the biggest tank you have space for. If you can only do a 10 gallon, then a 10 gallon is ok. But I completely agree, I would do everything possible to use a 20 gallon. My Q is a 38.


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## shaggylawson (Dec 28, 2009)

I assume that the QT is basically the same as the main tank meaning all the same rules apply such as LR, BS, sand, skimmer, etc. except on a smaller scale, correct? Is it better to take water from the main tank to fill the QT tank (or at least some of it 5 or 10 gal) since it is already cycled or do I just start from scratch?


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## wake49 (Jul 2, 2008)

Start from scratch. And no Live Rock, no Live Sand. I go bare-bottom, with a few pieces of PVC pipe (a 4" coupling and a 3" elbow). I have a HOB filter with an activated carbon pad, and a small in tank UV Sterilizer. Standard flourescent light and that's it.


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## shaggylawson (Dec 28, 2009)

wake49 said:


> Start from scratch. And no Live Rock, no Live Sand. I go bare-bottom, with a few pieces of PVC pipe (a 4" coupling and a 3" elbow). I have a HOB filter with an activated carbon pad, and a small in tank UV Sterilizer. Standard flourescent light and that's it.


Ok, maybe I have the wrong idea as to what a QT actually is. I just thought it was basically another tank that is used to hold new fish or deseased fish until they are ready to add to the main tank. Which means the tank needs LR and sand to help cycle and maintain the water. Is that correct? Based on what you saying I invision a tank with nothing but water and equipment. I'm not sure what the PVC is for or connecting to. Do you have a pic of your QT that you can share that will give me a better idea?


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## wake49 (Jul 2, 2008)

I will have to take a pic when I get home tonight. 

The PVC is just thrown in there, as a place for inhabitants to hide.

No need for Live Rock and Live Sand as you don't want anything in the tank except the fish you are QT'ing. You run your QT just like a freshwater system, bare-bottomed.


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

Wake and I have the same idea for a Q tank. The only thing I generally do differently at all is to use a sponge filter with an air pump. The sponge can be placed inside your display for a week or so to help it colonize with bacteria. The water is not what cycles. Cycling refers to the process of beneficial bacteria colonizing your live rock and sand, enabling fish waste to be processed. The sponge filter will accomplish the same thing on a SHORT TERM basis. Sponge filters have the negative aspect of Nitrate production, but this is not relevant in Q because you will do a very large water change after each fish is finished in Q.

Sponge filters:
Filter Max III Sponge Pre-Filters | Sponge Aquarium Filters | Filters | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com

You attach the sponge filter to a power head. The Maxi Jet should work fine.
Maxi-Jet 400 PH Powerhead - 106 gph | Power Heads | Water Pumps & Power Heads | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com

Another alternative is to use an air drive sponge filter. If you already have an air pump, this would be the less expensive option:
Hydro III Sponge Filter | Sponge Aquarium Filters | Filters | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com

A hang on filter for water movement and carbon filtration would also be a nice addition. For that matter, you can attach the sponge to the intake of the hang on. Almost any idea works. You just need a place for water to flow across any material that allows bacteria to attach. 

Don't waste a lot of money on this Brad. I probably have a tote full of this type of equipment in my garage that you are welcome to invade.


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## shaggylawson (Dec 28, 2009)

Wake don't worry about taking pics I was just on a different page about what a QT was. It sounds like it is easier than I was thinking. I only have one of those all-in-one 8 or 5 gallon bowfront tanks that has the built in light and filter in the lid with a small heater. So I guess I will need to go get a 10 gal or 20 gal tank and start from there. Mark I will eventually need to take the Emperor off my main tank so maybe I just wait until then to get the QT running and use the Emperor for that.


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

That would work. It would really be great for a 20 gallon. And the biowheels will already by cycled!


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## shaggylawson (Dec 28, 2009)

Since the ideal is to empty the water each time a fish has left the QT and to not have any items like sand or rock, etc. to harbor the disease, then I assume it would be necessary to replace the sponge or filter each time as well correct?


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

shaggylawson said:


> Since the ideal is to empty the water each time a fish has left the QT and to not have any items like sand or rock, etc. to harbor the disease, then I assume it would be necessary to replace the sponge or filter each time as well correct?


Not at all. In fact, you want to keep the sponge filter (or biowheel) in place because it is cycled and carries your beneficial bacteria that will break down the ammonia. Replacing it would require a new cycle.

You don't need to completely sterilize the Q. If the fish shows no signs of disease and you have no reason to suspect infection or parasites to be present in the Q, then just do a large water change to keep nitrates low and adjust salinity.

When I first add a fish to Q I keep the salinity at 1.016. After 2 weeks I begin to slowly raise the salinity until it reaches 1.024, matching the display. Then I move the fish to the display, usually after 4 weeks. At this point I do a large water change on the Q, lowering the salinity back to 1.016. I have never found this to be harmful to the filtration. FYI, a lower salinity is said to be less stressful for the fish over the short term and harmful to parasites. You just have to watch alkalinity a little closer.

If a fish dies in Q, then I run my UV for a week or 2 without other fish in the Q. My theory is that this should kill most harmful pathogens, not having a host and being exposed to UV.


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