# ?? Nitrite out of control ??



## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Hi everyone, I posted a few days ago about my sad experience loosening all my fish and I thought I had tank back to stable. Well it's not . I did a 50% water change per advice given here , next day Nitrites were really high again, off the chart ! I did another water change yesterday , about 45% , 15g to a 36g tank. It's climbing again this morning. I picked up a liquid test kit , was using strips before to be sure I'm getting more accurate readings thanks for that advice. This is a new tank for me and I'm getting back into the hobby after a long time and trying to learn how to do it right for a community tank. Trying to understand this "cycle" and what to do and how long it lasts and how not to kill any more fish. Do I keep doing water changes ? Tap water is very hard and has high pH , no signs of ammonia, nitrate or nitrite. Is there a better conditioner I should try , almost out and need to pick up some today. Should I add some bacteria ? All help is much appreciated.


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*hi*

I would keep doing 25% wter change every day until nitrite and nitrate readings are 0. Hardness of water and ph are less of an immediate concern than nitrite, ammonia, and nitrate. I have very hard tapwater and never have had a problem because of it. I am very conservative aboutt water changes. Some people reccomend 50-75% water change daily. I never use artificial bacteria supplements, but I can't say that they don't work. Nitrites are produced by bacteria that process ammonia. A second type of bacteria process the nitrites into nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites will kill your fish fast. Nitrates( with an A) are much less dangerous, but are still harmful. Nitrites will continue to spike until you have a healthy population of those second-stage bacteria to process them. I would not add fish until nitrites are stable and very close to 0. Even after that, nitrates will usually build up in most tanks . I change 25% of the water in my tanks onxce per week to keep nitrates. down. Live plants will process some nitrates but usually not enough to prevent accumulation. So to boil it down- 25% water change every day till nitrites are 0, then 25% water change every week forever.


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## keepsmiling (May 19, 2013)

You will still need to feed the tank. A pinch of flake or pellets will do..every other day or so.The high nitrites are good. I would let it go on through until you see nitrates and no nitrites. Do a 50 percent water change and add no more than three fish within 24 hours.I am sorry you lost your fish. Next time, consider doing a fishless cycle or add beneficial bacteria. I recommend Dr. Tim's One and Only.


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> Hi everyone, I posted a few days ago about my sad experience loosening all my fish and I thought I had tank back to stable. Well it's not . I did a 50% water change per advice given here , next day Nitrites were really high again, off the chart ! I did another water change yesterday , about 45% , 15g to a 36g tank. It's climbing again this morning. I picked up a liquid test kit , was using strips before to be sure I'm getting more accurate readings thanks for that advice. This is a new tank for me and I'm getting back into the hobby after a long time and trying to learn how to do it right for a community tank. Trying to understand this "cycle" and what to do and how long it lasts and how not to kill any more fish. Do I keep doing water changes ? Tap water is very hard and has high pH , no signs of ammonia, nitrate or nitrite. Is there a better conditioner I should try , almost out and need to pick up some today. Should I add some bacteria ? All help is much appreciated.


Are there fish in the aquarium?
R


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## Roccus (Nov 1, 2013)

fixing things is difficult.. I know.. i was there just a month ago....nothing in nature that is balanced happens quickly... a normal cycle takes at least 6 weeks.... a bacteria addative (I've used/use a top fin brand but the name is drawing a blank right now)can speed the process by a few weeks .. bacteria can only be suppoerted by the amount of "food" available to it so the additive shouldn't hurt... I use 1 ML per gallon after each media change when i change /clean the filter each month... your process has begun.. you did not give us the parameters of your amonia or NitrAte... ( at least i didnt see them , I'm only on my first cup of coffee).. be patient and stay the coarse.. continue the treatment you are on... I did see that you said ALL your fish died.. sorry for your loss.. I'd make sure I have stable readings for one full week before i added fish... and then only a few at a time.. don't over do the bio load once fish are added lest you risk an amonia spike and end back at square 1.. it's a marathon...not a sprint...

as a side note.. IMHO.. the test strips are virtualy worthless... the liquid test kits are the way to go... get your self an eye dropper to fill the tubes..( I bought my measuring spoon and eye dropper together as a baby wellness set at CVS)... I've also found that a small container ..like those spreadable butter comes in good to dip out enough water to do my testing... then take your large sample...test kit and eye dropper and sit at the kitchen ( or any other table) table and do your testing... I find this controllled enviorment the most accurate and quickest way to do my weekly testing ( daily when cycling or adding new fish)... enjoy the journey... again.. its a marathon..NOT a sprint...


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

I put a post in another topic about my tank deviation and mistakes I made. Somehow the ghost shrimp have survived and are still in there. Taking it slow even though it's killing me to look at this awesome 36g bowfront with no fish. I choose to learn from my mistakes hence starting not to be smart but wise and ask for help. Glad I found this site and all of your combined knowledge. I will test everything when I get home and post right away around 4:30. 
I need to pick up conditioner on way home and would like some ideas of what you all prefer , thanks


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## keepsmiling (May 19, 2013)

Seachem Prime is the only thing I use or recommend. The bottle is red/white.


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## UncleEasy3000 (Nov 5, 2013)

keepsmiling said:


> Seachem Prime is the only thing I use or recommend. The bottle is red/white.


Prime is all I use too as far as dechlorinator and harm reduction from ammonia/nitrite/nitrate is a water test shows high levels. 

I would suggested if establishing a new tank grabbing a bottle of live bacteria.. "Cycle" was used alot back in the day, but I am pretty sure there is better stuff out there today. Stress Zyme i think is another one.. If this stuff really works is up for debate, I find it helps speed up the cycling process if nothing else.

I'll probably be corrected here, but I wouldn't do any water changes until all I see are high levels of Nitrate and 0 Ammonia/Nitrite. Thoughts?


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

I would stop adding any food to the tank untill the nitrItes drop down.

I would also add live plants if you don't have any already.

once the nitrItes drop down I think you will find they just stay down. It's part of the (plantless) initial cycle.

I also supsect you lost the fish do to ammonia or high carbon dioxide. 

so now's the time to take is slow

my .02


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Ok I tested when I got home...

Ammonia 0
Nitrate 0+ (appeared to be inbetween 0 & 5.0)
Nitrite 2.0
pH 8.2

Did a 25% water change . Picked up some Prime , used it along with Stress Zyme +
I've been thinking about live plants, what would be a good plant for a beginner to start with ? I am willing to learn. I'm happy to see nitrites going down. I would like to keep the addition of chemicals limited as much as possible.


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*hi*

I read high nirtates-low nitrates to mean that you have a deficiency of secondary bacteria that process. Nitrite into nitrate. Prime should really help your tank. When you clean your filter, be sure you not doing too much and disrupting the bio. just a quick swish in aquarium water to unblock the media and rinse out large particles. I use no charcoal or any other additives to my filter, just extra pads of bonded filter material. Petco sells sheets of cut-to-size bonded filter material made by Marineland. I love the stuff. Not only can you cut it to fit any filter, it also has a very high total surface area for growing good bacteria, and it does not restrict the waterflow of my filters at all, even with double and triple layers in place. Please keep posting test results. Good luck my friend!
P.s. anubias is a good easy plant to start with.


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## littleswimmers (Nov 21, 2013)

I'm going through the same situation....and almost have the N levels back down to zero.


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

Forestfish said:


> Ok I tested when I got home...
> 
> Ammonia 0
> Nitrate 0+ (appeared to be inbetween 0 & 5.0)
> ...


no need for prime with those values. and stop using the stress zyme also.

but do treat the replacement water. just no the entire tank.

Ind for an even better tank just replace the evaporative water with straight untreated tap water.

I use a mix of fast growing plants (anacharis, vals) and slower growing (small potted swords, crypst etc) plus a amazon sword centerpeice. 

But just to help out this tank the faster growing plants will be the best immediate help.


my .02


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## UncleEasy3000 (Nov 5, 2013)

beaslbob said:


> no need for prime with those values. and stop using the stress zyme also.
> 
> but do treat the replacement water. just no the entire tank.
> 
> ...


I not a chemist, and you've been doing this a lot longer than me, so this is merely a question and not a challenge.. 

Also I do believe in a "a little as possible" chemical approach.. 

But doesn't even the littlest amount of tap water have chemical (chlorine) in it? IME that could damage and kill off the good bacteria.. thus creating unstable Ammo, Nitrite and Nitrate levels?

I don't see the harm in dropping a small amount of Prime in tapwater, regardless of the amount. In fact, all I see is the contrary. Can you help me understand?


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Nitrite was high again today , did another 25% an added a anubias.


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## Agent13 (Apr 23, 2013)

UncleEasy3000 said:


> I not a chemist, and you've been doing this a lot longer than me, so this is merely a question and not a challenge..
> 
> Also I do believe in a "a little as possible" chemical approach..
> 
> ...


How long he has being keeping fish doesn't exactly mean he knows any more then you do. I highly suggest that nobody intending to keep fish in a decent looking tank in prefferable conditions take this advice seriously. There has been no basis on any thread yet that makes sense of why he chooses not to use prime or water conditioner.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

11/27 5:30am test results

Ammonia 0.25
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0.50
pH 8.4


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> 11/27 5:30am test results
> 
> Ammonia 0.25
> Nitrate 0
> ...


The tank is trying to cycle just hang in there, have patiences, and us the Prime, your near the end 



Agent13 said:


> How long he has being keeping fish doesn't exactly mean he knows any more then you do. I highly suggest that nobody intending to keep fish in a decent looking tank in prefferable conditions take this advice seriously. There has been no basis on any thread yet that makes sense of why he chooses not to use prime or water conditioner.


 I'm a pretty hard core water purist and even I use Prime (CloramX) when it's the best option.

Rick


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

I should keep doing 25% water changes daily right ? I hope this settles down soon. When I got the plant yesterday I ended up coming home with an extra friend that I have been looking for for a couple months and got him 25% off, last day of sale, no pressure lol. It's a Royal pleco 2 1/2 " and it is AWESOME ! He is patiently awaiting his new home in my 10g. Plan to setup a 55-75 for him next spring. IMO the Royal is one of the coolest plecos if come across. I'm sure I should have waited ......I couldn't help myself


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## Roccus (Nov 1, 2013)

*untreated ( municipal) tap water*

I know this much.. IF.. I put untreated tap water into my aquarium in amounts larger than 5%... with in 15 minutes the water appears to look like diluted milk... a few hours latter it begins to give off an off putting odor... by sunrise the next morning.. most if not all the inhabitants are dead...my water contains a high amount of copper.. deadly to fish.. it was the main reason i purchased an R/O/D/I/filter unit... every municipality has differant levels of minerals, salts and metals....seasonal conditions may dictate the amount of chlorine in water.... there are times when it's only a trace elemnet.. other times the smell will knock you over...

sometimes "nature " needs a helping hand.. prime will secure the integrity of any stock in the tank and render clorines,cloramines, nitrIte and nitrAte non toxic.. a bacteria additive will help establish your bio system... live plants will consume amonia first... and nitrates as a secondary food sorce... as everyone here as said.. it's going to take time... it's a slow process... but everything will balance out.. even if you have to give it a helping hand.. chemicaly.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Tested again and Ammonia at 0 but my Nitrite is at 5.0 again !


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*hang in there*

I agree with rickey , the tank is trying to cycle. 0 nitrates and .5 nitrite indicates that stage 1 bacteria are processing ammonia to nitrite, but nothing is processing nitrites to nitrate... yet. Be patient I've waited six weeks for a full cycle. Regarding water changes- I don't claim to be all knowing , but if it was my tank, I would continue 25% daily changes.
P.s. nitrite leves at 5 will kill your fish. Please Don't add the pleco yet.


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## keepsmiling (May 19, 2013)

Bob, why are you telling people not to use Prime? Always use Prime when performing water changes. The only time is is not needed, is when you are using RO/DI water with 0 TDS in a saltwater tank.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

I did a water change last night and this morning nitrites tested 2.0+ ,ammonia was still low. I have been adding Prime every water change and the Royal pleco is not in the tank. I am concerned that there is not enuff for it to munch on in my 10g , the albino bn keeps the tank pretty cleaned up.


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## Agent13 (Apr 23, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> I did a water change last night and this morning nitrites tested 2.0+ ,ammonia was still low. I have been adding Prime every water change and the Royal pleco is not in the tank. I am concerned that there is not enuff for it to munch on in my 10g , the albino bn keeps the tank pretty cleaned up.


Feed it a spear of zucchini or a veggie wafer.


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## Austin (Feb 1, 2010)

Yes do not follow his advice on just topping off the aquarium with untreated water it is misinformation and makes no logical sense at all. By using untreated water you're adding additional chemicals that are present in tap water. ONLY water has evaporated so the original concentration of chemicals (ex chloramine) has increased, now you're adding more... Without anything to tie the chemicals up so the concentration of poisonous chemicals is increasing. Furthermore you are adding nitrogenous waste by feeding your fish. If you remove no water then that waste is just building up as it is NOT evaporating with the water!


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*agree with austin*

Especialy chloramine. It does not evaporate and if you keep adding it to your tank and never taking any out, it will obviously concentrate to high levels.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Tests again tonight show ammonia almost 0 and Nitrites between 2.0 and 5.0. Changed 25% water. Picked up algae wafers for pleco


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## keepsmiling (May 19, 2013)

Nitrites can really be hard on or kill your fish. I would do another water change today and test again.
An addendum to what I said above: You can go without Prime if your water source uses chlorine, if you set the water up a couple days in advance and allow the chlorine to off-gas. As mentioned Chloramines are a different story.


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*feed empty tank?*

I'm not sure if you need to feed the empty tank to keep cycle going?


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

11/25 pm water test results

Ammonia 0
Nitrate 5.0 
Nitrite 2.0
pH 8.2

Still playing


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*hey forest*

It looks like nitrite is being processed into nitrate. Give it a little more time and keep testing so we can see if your results are stable. Need nitrite to be very neer 0 to say that your tank is stable.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Was happy to finally see some nitrates ! Will post results again tomorrow.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Ammonia .25
Nitrate 5.0
Nitrite .5 !!!!!!
pH 8.2

Getting better ! Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily ? Grateful for all of you being here and knowledge shared


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*awesome!*

Just my opinion but I would cut back to twice per week waterchange to see if nitrate is accumulating. Also, I don't really know why you have ammonia. There's no fish in the tank? Maybe your tapwater has ammonia, I've seen that before. Light at the end of the tunnel!


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*light at the end of the tunnel!*

If nirite stays low for 5-7 days and nitrate accumulates between water changes I would consider your tank to be fully cycled!


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

11/28 happy thanksgiving !

Ammonia 0
Nitrate 5
Nitrite 1
pH 8.2

I have not done a water change for 60 hrs. There are shrimp in the tank and they have been really active for the past 2 days. I need to get my Royal pleco (Panzer) out of my 10g as soon as possible, crowded in there. Think it is safe to move him ?


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## rickey (Jul 7, 2013)

No, tank has not finished cycle 

R


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Was to busy to post yesterday so here is what's going on.
11/29
Temp 77
Ammonia 0 
Nitrate 5
Nitrite 0 woohoo !!
pH 8

I did this test an hour after 25% water change . 
25 hrs later
11/30
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 5
Nitrite 0
pH 8.2

Am I through this cycle ? I plan on still doing a water change every few days for a while and testing every day for a bit.


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## Agent13 (Apr 23, 2013)

In a general sense yes you're through the cycle. But not quite stable yet. Continue to monitor the especially nitrates .. They should be going up which is expected and normal between water changes on a cycled tank. 


Sent from Petguide.com App


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Ammonia and nitrites holding at 0 today !!


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> Ammonia and nitrites holding at 0 today !!


Are you producing nitrates?


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Yes, I will check them when I get up at 2:30am to be sure.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

Nitrate 10 , it is climbing


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

My filter maintence schedule says it's time to change carbon media. I'm alittle nervous about messing with anything after going through all this but I need to do some filter care , not operating right, needs cleaning.


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## Agent13 (Apr 23, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> My filter maintence schedule says it's time to change carbon media. I'm alittle nervous about messing with anything after going through all this but I need to do some filter care , not operating right, needs cleaning.


What kind of filter do you have? I rarely ever do anything more then rinse my filter media in old tank water and somtime clean the intake on HOBs . Canisters i clean maybe every 3 months but the process is a little different yet still i dont replace anything but the polishing pads.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

HOB fluval 50, I've read some of you don't use carbon , why not ? What are the benefits?


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

I only clean my filters if there is loss of performance, reduced water flow or water is bypassing/ overflowing. Like agent said- less is more, just a quick swish to unblock the filter pad. Clean the intake first before you disturb your filter media. 

I dont use carbon in my filters. Reason being that I want as much surface as possible in my filterbox for biofiltration. I use only filter pad and pack it tightly enough to fill the box, but not so tight to reduce waterflow. Carbon is supposed to remove chemicals and such, but in practice, reglar waterchanges will do much more than an ounce or two of carbon. I've also heard that the carbon is only active for a short time, and if you don't remove it, it will leach back into your water. Don't really know, but ihavnt had any trouble without it. Thanks.


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

I got bypassing going on. Think I will give this no carbon approach a shot. It will leave much more room in their for bio-media which may have helped me to not of had the crazy nitrite situation that started this post. In hindsight I'm glad it did happen since it lead me here


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## Roccus (Nov 1, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> I got bypassing going on. Think I will give this no carbon approach a shot. It will leave much more room in their for bio-media which may have helped me to not of had the crazy nitrite situation that started this post. In hindsight I'm glad it did happen since it lead me here


rinse the media in a little water from the tank or distilled water...I keep a 1lb coffee can of "change" water available for rinsing... if I notice the filter by passing or my bio wheel not funtioning properly due to flow i simply swish the media in the"change" water.. you'll be surprised at how much "junk' rinses clean.... I recycle this water to water my house plants... it keeps every one happy.


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*good advice*

Plants love old fish water. My garden stays green well into november because of it! Rinse your filter media as little as possible to restore full flow from your filter. Think of the gunk in your filterpads as life support for your tank. I've learned a lot by participating in this thread, thanks forest. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around this nitrite spike thing. I've seen a couple of t
Other threads about persistent high nitrite and each seems to be different. My theory is that stage2 bacteria that process nitrite get killed or harmed, then nitrites build up and nitrate is no longer produced. What harms the bacteria colony is my main interest at this point in time. Could be chloromine accumulation caused by too infrequent or too small waterchanges, or lack of dissolved oxygen, maybe somthing else. If anyone has ideas please post. In established, well cared for tanks, nitrite should never spike.
Please remind me forest, what size is your tank and did you do regular waterchanges before you had your problem? Seachem Prime detoxifies nitrite as well as nuetralizing chlorine, chloromine, metals. Its a little expensive for the size bottle you get, but its super concentrated so it will lasta long time.
Thanks to all who posted on this thread and forest, thanks again for playing!


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

rsskylight04 said:


> Plants love old fish water. My garden stays green well into november because of it! Rinse your filter media as little as possible to restore full flow from your filter. Think of the gunk in your filterpads as life support for your tank. I've learned a lot by participating in this thread, thanks forest. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around this nitrite spike thing. I've seen a couple of t
> Other threads about persistent high nitrite and each seems to be different. My theory is that stage2 bacteria that process nitrite get killed or harmed, then nitrites build up and nitrate is no longer produced. What harms the bacteria colony is my main interest at this point in time. Could be chloromine accumulation caused by too infrequent or too small waterchanges, or lack of dissolved oxygen, maybe somthing else. If anyone has ideas please post. In established, well cared for tanks, nitrite should never spike.
> Please remind me forest, what size is your tank and did you do regular waterchanges before you had your problem? Seachem Prime detoxifies nitrite as well as nuetralizing chlorine, chloromine, metals. Its a little expensive for the size bottle you get, but its super concentrated so it will lasta long time.
> Thanks to all who posted on this thread and forest, thanks again for playing!


 
FWIW chlorimine does not accumulate in tanks. Not even is water systems. It breaks down to ammonia and chlorine gas. Water systems that switched from chlorine to chlorimines discovered they had to flush out the systems due to algae build up from the aerobic bacteria. The effect is so great that most if not all the chloramine is broken down in the water system before it ever gets to your faucet.

I have noticed the nitrIte spikes which are much worse (pegging the test kit) in unplanted tanks. What I have found out is that by stopping feeding the nitrItes drop down quickly. After they drop down then normal feeding does not result in nitrIte spikes. So what I do is add a fish and not feed that fish the first week. In my planted tanks I still see a 1 day nitrIte spike. but even that spike is only 1ppm or so.


my .02


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*so bob...*

I really want to understand this. Overfeeding produces large amounts of ammonia Plants take ammonia that would have been converted to nitrite by bacteria? That would explain why nitrite spikes in planted tanks are less severe than in unplanted. Is there anything you could add or please correct me if I have it wrong. Again, thanks for your knowledge and experience.
-skylight


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## ao (Feb 29, 2012)

yep  the reason you get nitrites will be due to excess ammonia. Generally speaking, in the majority of cases, two types of bacteria help complete the nitrogen cycle- Nitrosomonas and nitrobacter.
The former oxidises ammonia and turns that into nitrites while the latter converts nitrites into nitrates.

when the nitrosomonas colony process an unusually large amount of ammonia into nitrites, and for some reason the nitrobacter colony is not large enough to process the sudden excess of nitrItes into nitrAtes, your tank will experience a nitrite spike.

Plants can definitely help by consuming the ammonia 

Plants 


Sent from Petguide.com App


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

*thanks*

Does nitrobacter colony rely exclusivly on bacteria produced nitrite for sustainence?That would explain why it cannot be as large or larger than nitrosonoma colony


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

rsskylight04 said:


> I really want to understand this. Overfeeding produces large amounts of ammonia Plants take ammonia that would have been converted to nitrite by bacteria? That would explain why nitrite spikes in planted tanks are less severe than in unplanted. Is there anything you could add or please correct me if I have it wrong. Again, thanks for your knowledge and experience.
> -skylight


You have it basically right. Only the ammonia does not have to come from just overfeeding for instance.


But the plants sucking out the ammonia preventing spikes is correct.


Meanwhile there still is aerobic bacteria. Especially in new planted tanks because the water is oxygenated by the plants and the plants themselves add bacteria to the system. That bacteria will expand and consume more and more of the ammonia. Just like in a plantless cycle.

But with plants you don't see that initial ammonia spike. You may see an inital nitrate spike as the plants prefer ammonia over nitrates. Then as the bacteri gets the ammonia, the plants revert back to nitrates and nitrates drop down.



my .02


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## Forestfish (Nov 17, 2013)

So it's been a week since I've done a water change and everything has been going great!! Tests have all been consistent with 
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate (12/6) 20 , slowly climbed all week
pH 8.2

So happy to see things consistent !I'm glad I started this thread, learned a lot, got started on live plants, became proactive with testing, meet some of you, exposed to a range of ideas, started using prime, became a little better aquariest , sweated, giggled and cried.


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

I too have learned a lot since going online with fishkeeping. This thread not only helps you and everyone who posted, but also many people from all over who read it. Non members who type " nitrite spike" into there search engine might very well be directed to your thread. All who contributed to this thread have created a valuable and varied picece of information that is based on an actual, real world case, not just theory or science, but a real person with a troubled fishtank. Thanks to all!


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## Roccus (Nov 1, 2013)

Forestfish said:


> So it's been a week since I've done a water change and everything has been going great!! Tests have all been consistent with
> Ammonia 0
> Nitrite 0
> Nitrate (12/6) 20 , slowly climbed all week
> ...


Now that you have started the live plants you begin to see more changes, albeit slowly... eventualy once they establish, you will notice the nitrAte level begin to drop, while the amonia and nitrIte levels remain at 0..


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

Forestfish said:


> So it's been a week since I've done a water change and everything has been going great!! Tests have all been consistent with
> Ammonia 0
> Nitrite 0
> Nitrate (12/6) 20 , slowly climbed all week
> ...


 
Excellent values and glad you're happy.

Hopefully you will find out that you don't have to use prime in your top off water.

I have found over the years it is just amazing what our tanks can do when I mostly just leave them alone. With the exception of having thriving plants that is.


Congrates.

ps I like this forum also.


my .02


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