# Why do I keep losing fish?



## DjBootleg (Apr 28, 2012)

I just dont get it... I test my waters once a week with the API master test kit.. The water tests fine.. I have a total of 4 tanks.

10 G fry tank (rarely have deaths)

20 gallon (rarely have deaths, however one fish does look pail and sluggish, often some fish scrape on the gravel/decor) doubt its ich

30 G African Cichlid tank (NO DEATHS 100% healthy)

50 G (have had 4 losses in 2 weeks)

I feed only once daily no more than they eat, lights on in day off at night, regular cleaning.

Any ideas? :/
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## djembekah (Feb 13, 2012)

What are your params, temp, stocking, etc?


----------



## DjBootleg (Apr 28, 2012)

Params?

Temp in the 20 G is around 76-78
Have about 17-18 fish. Relatively small..

50 G
Temp is set to 82
Only have about 15 fish so far..
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## djembekah (Feb 13, 2012)

parameters, like ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/hardness

what fish do you have in the 50g that need water at 82??


----------



## DjBootleg (Apr 28, 2012)

Tested it about a week ago...
50 G PH is around 8... Nitrate 5.0... Nitrite 0..,

20 G PH 7.4... Nitrate 10... Nitrite 0..,

BUT now I just tested for the Ammonia on these two tanks and now they are both at .25. So I'm guessing that's the problem... Anyway any tips on how to get rid of this?


----------



## SeaHorse (Dec 27, 2010)

Test your tap water too to know what you are putting into your tank each change. Also what water conditioner do you use when you do a water change? I would not yet assume that is the problem...


----------



## DjBootleg (Apr 28, 2012)

djembekah said:


> parameters, like ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/hardness
> 
> what fish do you have in the 50g that need water at 82??


Various tropical fish. Average temp is 74-84... Higher temp = less infections such as Ich............


----------



## DjBootleg (Apr 28, 2012)

Jakiebabie said:


> Test your tap water too to know what you are putting into your tank each change. Also what water conditioner do you use when you do a water change? I would not yet assume that is the problem...


I tested the tap the other day.. The ammonia is high! Almost at 2!!!!

I use "Stress Coat" not sure what brand but the one from Wal-Mart...


----------



## djembekah (Feb 13, 2012)

higher temp also equals shorter lifespan


----------



## DjBootleg (Apr 28, 2012)

djembekah said:


> higher temp also equals shorter lifespan


I might turn it down a bit.. But any advice on the ammonia and the ammonia in my tap?


----------



## djembekah (Feb 13, 2012)

I _think_ Prime can help neutralize ammonia. also live plants can help. 

it'd really help us to know what fish are in there and what ypuve lost. then wd can help you figure out if the tank and water is a proper home. and maybe you have fish that just rt sick a lot.


----------



## lakemalawifish (Nov 24, 2012)

You may want to start using Prime to condition your water. If the tank is not fully cycled or is going through a mini-cycle you will still need to monitor your parameters and perform adequate water changes until things calm down.

Here is the info on Prime
Seachem. Prime

and here are some FAQ's regarding testing while using Prime
General chemistry question about Prime. [Archive] - Seachem Support Forums

When you dose with Prime during your water changes you need to use the amount of Prime for the total number of gallons of your tank, not just for the amount of water you are replacing. For example, in a 50 gallon tank you use 1 capful of Prime, the directions on the bottle say that 1 capful will treat 50 gallons of water. The dosage does not have to be "prefectly" measured, i.e. a little bit extra is not going to hurt your fish. Better to be a tad over, than a tad under the correct dose.

I believe the process Prime goes through to detoxify ammonia, nitrites and nitrates is effective in your tank for up to 72 hours, so if you have measurable levels of any of these three harmful things in your tank, by doing a water change after 72 hours the protection level starts all over again. Someone correct me if I am wrong on this.


----------



## lakemalawifish (Nov 24, 2012)

Deleted


----------



## djembekah (Feb 13, 2012)

Huh. never been told you need to dose enough prime in thd nee water for the whole tank. I've only ever used asuch as i needed for what's in the bucket. interesting.

i also wanted to mention that i used to keep my community areound 80-82, but someone told me that the extremes of a fish's range are a no no. i used to lose danios all the time. mow i have 3 left who won't go now that i need them gone lol.


----------



## lakemalawifish (Nov 24, 2012)

I did not know that either about Prime until I called Seachem and asked them several questions when I stopped using Stress Coat and switched to Prime. Also, elevated water temps above 80 can make some fish more aggressive. I try to keep our tanks at 78, but the fry and holding tanks are at 80.


----------



## djembekah (Feb 13, 2012)

I've also never heard of elevated temp causing aggression. Idk about cichliss really, except scalare angelfish, and even they don't need it over about 74, or so I've been told. 82 seemz waaay high foe a typical tropical community tank. by idk what fiah he has.

also i apologoze for typos, on my phone right now lol
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

There are several issues in this thread, which I will try to sort out as best I can. Some are very serious to the fish.

First to clear up about Prime, there is no need to use more than what will handle the replacement water. Seachem is a fairly reliable firm, but nevertheless they are in business to make money and getting us to use more of their products than we need will increase their business. But more to the point, all this stuff going in the water does affect fish, as the more conditioner you use the more chemicals and TDS are going in the water, and these do affect fish in varying degrees. The less the better.

To the initial question of DJbootleg. I have no idea of your level of experience or knowledge, but understanding how the many factors there are that affect the biology in an aquarium is key to success. As others have asked, we need to know the specific fish species and numbers in these tanks where fish are regularly dying. Are there any live plants in these tanks? When did the deaths begin, and can you relate this to any changes or new fish? What are their symptoms before they die? Do you see any aggression between fish, minor though it may be?

Until we know the above, there is little we can do to pinpoint the issue. But a couple of comments can be made about some of the factors mentioned already. Temperature is critical. All fish have a preferred range within which they will function at their best and thus be healthier. It is usually best to avoid the high end of these ranges long-term. As someone mentioned, higher temperatures can cause fish to become stressed, sick, and die, due to the increase in their metabolism this causes. Unlike us, fish are governed by their surrounding temperature and cannot regulate their internal temperature differently. A higher temp will not mean less infections, quite the opposite. It is true that raising the temp to 90F will kill ich, but you can't maintain this temperature for any fish. And ich is only one of a myriad of pathogens and protozoan that can affect and kill fish.

On the ammonia in the tap water, this is serious at a level of 2ppm. A water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia is essential (StressCoat does not), and in this case smaller and more frequent rather than larger and less frequent water changes may be needed, depending upon how fast the bacteria can take up the ammonia. Live plants will significantly improve this, as they are hungry for ammonia/ammonium as their preferred source of nitrogen. Water conditioners that detoxify ammonia only remain effective for 24-48 hours, and the pH is another factor.

Byron.


----------



## cpwebsite (Dec 9, 2012)

Prime... using prime will neutralize the water in your tap however its a temporary measure. What you actually need is a ro/di system for around $250, and that is probably why all your fish are dying btw.

Also keep your temp at around 76-78 and only raise it if your actively fighting an infection.

Edit: btw the di not just ro is what removes ammonia.


----------

