# PH too high?



## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

Ok so I am unsure about ph I hear a lot of conflicting things. Right now my ph is at 7.2 is this too high? I hear that its supposed to be at 7.0 >> ... Also I just cleaned the tank like three hours ago if that changes anything. There shouldn't be any nitrates and the PH level should be stable as I use Nitraban in it and that supposedly helps with both things. I also don't know why but my tank is cloudy ._. it's not overly so but just enough that you can tell, the color of the water is tinged white. All of the fish seem fine and I don't think ammonia is the problem though I don't have a liquid test for the parameters of the tank, and I just ran out of the strip test. Should I get a liquid test how much do they cost? Sorry for such a long post^^'


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## amazon21 (Jun 28, 2010)

Andarial said:


> Ok so I am unsure about ph I hear a lot of conflicting things. Right now my ph is at 7.2 is this too high? I hear that its supposed to be at 7.0 >> ... Also I just cleaned the tank like three hours ago if that changes anything. There shouldn't be any nitrates and the PH level should be stable as I use Nitraban in it and that supposedly helps with both things. I also don't know why but my tank is cloudy ._. it's not overly so but just enough that you can tell, the color of the water is tinged white. All of the fish seem fine and I don't think ammonia is the problem though I don't have a liquid test for the parameters of the tank, and I just ran out of the strip test. Should I get a liquid test how much do they cost? Sorry for such a long post^^'


First of all what fish do you have?
Do you have any nitrates or nitrites?
Yes, you should definitely get a liquid test kit, preferably the API master test kit

EDIT: also, pH is most likely not the problem and for now DONT tinker with it, its most likely ammonia/nitrate/nitrite and if your fish a hardy enough to stand that, they can definitely stand a pH of 7.2. Only african cichlids, or delicate south american cichlids would struggle at that pH


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

I have three Rainbow fish, one hi-fin pleco, one striped peacock eel, four fancy guppies, and a crab; I found one last strip and it says I have no nitrites or nitrates ._. but it could be wrong I hear they aren't the most reliable. Though if they were too high my crab would have nitrite/nitrate poisoning. I think I will buy a test kit tomorrow... It will be easier for the diagnosis of my tank ^^


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## amazon21 (Jun 28, 2010)

Andarial said:


> I have three Rainbow fish, one hi-fin pleco, one striped peacock eel, four fancy guppies, and a crab; I found one last strip and it says I have no nitrites or nitrates ._. but it could be wrong I hear they aren't the most reliable. Though if they were too high my crab would have nitrite/nitrate poisoning. I think I will buy a test kit tomorrow... It will be easier for the diagnosis of my tank ^^


ok a few more questions, what is the size of your tank, how long have you had the tank, did you cycle the tank, how did you cycle the tank, also, during your last water change, about how much of the water did you change,


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## amazon21 (Jun 28, 2010)

Aquarium Water Testing: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Freshwater Master Test Kit

this is the test kit you'll want to buy. Its probably the best/ most accurate, and is used by almost all the members of this forum
also we have some stocking problems that we may need to work out, but first lets get the cloudy water problem taken care of


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

My tank is 25 gallon and I've had it for about four months >> or maybe five months. I cycled it by transferring my fish from my other tank into my new tank, which were my gourami and my pleco oh and my some of my guppies. I no longer have the gourami sadly as he kinda went aggressive after I added the new fish after the first three weeks. When I changed the water I took about 30%-40% out it was time for the big change so I scrubbed everything under water to get rid of some of the algae. Thanks for the test kit info <3


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## amazon21 (Jun 28, 2010)

Andarial said:


> My tank is 25 gallon and I've had it for about four months >> or maybe five months. I cycled it by transferring my fish from my other tank into my new tank, which were my gourami and my pleco oh and my some of my guppies. I no longer have the gourami sadly as he kinda went aggressive after I added the new fish after the first three weeks. When I changed the water I took about 30%-40% out it was time for the big change so I scrubbed everything under water to get rid of some of the algae. Thanks for the test kit info <3


ok, i think we found your problem. By scrubbing all your decorations you likely killed the beneficial bacteria in them. These bacteria help make sure that your ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels are good. Since you have a pleco, you should have no big algae problems unless your keeping the light on too much. If its a planted tank you want 10-12 hours, if its non-planted you want 8-10 hours. If you ran water through your gravel as well than we may have a big problem, otherwise it shouldn't be that bad.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

OOOO ok, its non-planted... so I shouldn't have scrubbed the decorations >>. Well as long as it's not going to become progressively worse. I never rinse the gravel unless it's new and being added. T.T I was so worried, I was praying my fish weren't going to suddenly die. But since their going to be ok I'll just monitor it closer for the next few days to make sure it doesn't spike and definitely get a master kit <3 thank you so much for the help


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## amazon21 (Jun 28, 2010)

Andarial said:


> OOOO ok, its non-planted... so I shouldn't have scrubbed the decorations >>. Well as long as it's not going to become progressively worse. I never rinse the gravel unless it's new and being added. T.T I was so worried, I was praying my fish weren't going to suddenly die. But since their going to be ok I'll just monitor it closer for the next few days to make sure it doesn't spike and definitely get a master kit <3 thank you so much for the help


you didn't scrub with soap did you?? Also, you shouldn't have taken the decorations out of the water in the first place or washed it. The chlorine in tap water kills a lot more bacteria than the scrub, although they both kill a good amount.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

No  soap is dangerous isn't it?


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## Grimmjow (Jul 22, 2009)

Soap = bad

Do you have somewhere for the crab to get out of the water?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

A comment back on the issue of pH. It is best to leave it alone, as someone mentioned. However, knowing your tap water hardness and pH to compare with the tank water pH might point up something. You can find out about tap water hardness from your water supply people, also they might know the general pH. You can test it, but let a glass of tap water sit overnight before testing for pH.

The use of chemicals to adjust pH can be very dangerous. Once we know the above numbers we can pursue this more.

Byron.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

Yeah I have this really tall plant that my crab climbs out onto and then sits, she also gathers air from the bubblers in my pirate cave XD it's really interesting. And ok Byron I will do that tonight the PH is staying at 7.2 >< maybe I was just worrying for nothing, we just moved here and the water is really different from where I was


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

Byron said:


> A comment back on the issue of pH. It is best to leave it alone, as someone mentioned. However, knowing your tap water hardness and pH to compare with the tank water pH might point up something. You can find out about tap water hardness from your water supply people, also they might know the general pH. You can test it, but let a glass of tap water sit overnight before testing for pH.
> 
> The use of chemicals to adjust pH can be very dangerous. Once we know the above numbers we can pursue this more.
> 
> Byron.


Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys, some stupid storm knocked out our power for a while and I couldn't get on. The ph seems normal for the water. I tested a glass of water and it read somewhere close to 7.2 so I guess I'm safe. Haven't lost any fish. But the tank is still really cloudy. I did an ammonia check because I FINALLY got an API master kit and it says I have somewhere between 0.25-0.50 ppm (think I did the right abbreviation) I figure that's too high because it says on the kit instruction booklet that it should be at zero. I don't know how to get rid of the ammonia though ><' it gives me tons of choices. 

Ammo-Chips/ Ammo-carbs
Water Changes
OR 
Ammo Lock

I'm just not sure which to do, can you guys help me choose the best approach? Sorry for all the words i just figured it was best to be as specific as possible, though I have a feeling I wasn't specific enough ...


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Andarial said:


> Sorry it took so long to get back to you guys, some stupid storm knocked out our power for a while and I couldn't get on. The ph seems normal for the water. I tested a glass of water and it read somewhere close to 7.2 so I guess I'm safe. Haven't lost any fish. But the tank is still really cloudy. I did an ammonia check because I FINALLY got an API master kit and it says I have somewhere between 0.25-0.50 ppm (think I did the right abbreviation) I figure that's too high because it says on the kit instruction booklet that it should be at zero. I don't know how to get rid of the ammonia though ><' it gives me tons of choices.
> 
> Ammo-Chips/ Ammo-carbs
> Water Changes
> ...


Yes, ammonia (and nitrite for the record) should be zero when tested in any aquarium that is established. But before considering how to deal with it, you need to find the cause. First, have you checked your tap water? Especially since you mention moving to a new location, check the tap water alone for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Any or all three can be present, and that is useful to know.

Most ammonia detoxifiers work by changing toxic ammonia into harmless ammonium. Ammonia and ammonium both register as "ammonia" in test kits [there are a couple that differentiate, but most of us do not use them; the API does not differentiate] so it will still show. Ammonia also changes into ammonium automatically in acidic water. And water changes will dilute ammonia obviously, unless it is in the tap water; but that is not something you want to be doing every day, so finding the source is still important.

On the initial pH question, it is fine. The tank seems to be the same as the tap water, so no issues there. No mention is made of the hardness of the tap water [find this out from your water supply folks] so the pH may or may not normally lower in the tank. We can go into this more when we know the hardness numbers.

Byron.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

Byron said:


> Yes, ammonia (and nitrite for the record) should be zero when tested in any aquarium that is established. But before considering how to deal with it, you need to find the cause. First, have you checked your tap water? Especially since you mention moving to a new location, check the tap water alone for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Any or all three can be present, and that is useful to know.
> 
> Most ammonia detoxifiers work by changing toxic ammonia into harmless ammonium. Ammonia and ammonium both register as "ammonia" in test kits [there are a couple that differentiate, but most of us do not use them; the API does not differentiate] so it will still show. Ammonia also changes into ammonium automatically in acidic water. And water changes will dilute ammonia obviously, unless it is in the tap water; but that is not something you want to be doing every day, so finding the source is still important.
> 
> ...


Ok so I have just finished the ammonia test this morning, but I have school so I will just write it down so I don't forget it and then I will do the nitrite and nitrate for both my tank and the regular tap water. 

Ammonia for tank: 0.25-0.50
Ammonia for Tap water: 0.50


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Andarial said:


> Ok so I have just finished the ammonia test this morning, but I have school so I will just write it down so I don't forget it and then I will do the nitrite and nitrate for both my tank and the regular tap water.
> 
> Ammonia for tank: 0.25-0.50
> Ammonia for Tap water: 0.50


OK, there's the issue, ammonia in your tap water. But that is easily resolved. Use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia along with chlorine and chloramine. Many do this, but not all of them. But wait until you test for nitrite and nitrate too, as there are a couple that also handle those if they are present.

Using a conditioner that detoxifies ammonia during the water change will handle the initial ammonia in the tap water. Remember it will still show in tests, although it will now be ammonium. Bacteria and plants use ammonium and ammonia.

Byron.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

Byron said:


> OK, there's the issue, ammonia in your tap water. But that is easily resolved. Use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia along with chlorine and chloramine. Many do this, but not all of them. But wait until you test for nitrite and nitrate too, as there are a couple that also handle those if they are present.
> 
> Using a conditioner that detoxifies ammonia during the water change will handle the initial ammonia in the tap water. Remember it will still show in tests, although it will now be ammonium. Bacteria and plants use ammonium and ammonia.
> 
> Byron.


Ok Nitrite for aquarium is 0- 0.25 ppm; should I test my regular water for Nitrites too?  can there even be Nitrites in tap water?

and Nitrates for aquarium is 5.0 ppm >> man I needed this kit a long time ago, I had no idea it was this bad ><'


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## coolcucumber (Jan 16, 2011)

my p.H is 7.5 and all my fish are fine


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Andarial said:


> Ok Nitrite for aquarium is 0- 0.25 ppm; should I test my regular water for Nitrites too?  can there even be Nitrites in tap water?
> 
> and Nitrates for aquarium is 5.0 ppm >> man I needed this kit a long time ago, I had no idea it was this bad ><'


That is not bad at all, nitrate at 5 is fine. Most of us suggest keeping nitrates below 20 ppm. With live plants (are there plants in this tank?) this is easy, nitrate will usually be less than 10ppm. And weekly partial water changes dilute nitrates--unless they are in the tap water.

Tap water can contain ammonia, or nitrite, or nitrate--or all three. Deoends where you are and the water source. Test the tap water for all three, yes, then you will know.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

for my tap water there is 0 nitrites and 0 nitrates! YAY and I also just bought a conditioner called "Prime" it "Removes Chlorine, Chlorimine, Ammonia and detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, it also provides slime coat" my LFS recommended it and I hope it works *Crosses fingers* oh and no plants in it just the fake ones >< I can never keep the others alive


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Andarial said:


> for my tap water there is 0 nitrites and 0 nitrates! YAY and I also just bought a conditioner called "Prime" it "Removes Chlorine, Chlorimine, Ammonia and detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, it also provides slime coat" my LFS recommended it and I hope it works *Crosses fingers* oh and no plants in it just the fake ones >< I can never keep the others alive


Is good product and many use it. Should only be used with each water change.If ammonia or nitrite levels become dangerously high, then ALWAYS perform a water change and reducing the amount and frequency of food can help as well.
Don't add more fishes until ammonia and nitrites read zero for seven consecutive days and nitrAtes are detected.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

YAY I got something good, ok I did a water change at about 30% and the water looks a little better and I hope it stays that way and gets even better. Since I have used that ammonia neutralizer stuff will it ever read as zero or will it always have a little bit since the ammonia is just changed into a less harmful stage. And how much should I be testing it? Every day or every other day until it is clear of ammonia?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Prime detoxifies ammonia by changing it to ammonium, so it will be harmless but still show as ammonia on the API test kit. Daily testing, at roughly the same time each day, will be prudent. If ammonia *increases* from the previous day, do the water change using Prime (in an amount for the replacement water is adequate). If ammonia is not increasing, this should not be necessary. Nitrite, same principle. Prime works for 24-48 hours, by which time the bacteria will have multiplied somewhat, so it is a case of keeping on top of things daily.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

ah ok thanks Byron and everyone else <3 ^-^ hopefully I will be ok from now on but I will keep this updated for a few days to see if anything changes


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

Ok after my first water change the ammonia level has dropped to 0- 0.25 ppm and the nitrites are still at zero.The PH is still at 7.2 though it had changed to 7.6 for a day, though I didn't worry about it much. But something happened to the Nitrates, they spiked to 40 ppm now I wonder if this is because I used Prime, I plan on making another water change soon, but should I not use Prime then? The water change will probably be performed sometime in the middle of next week it's only Friday right now. The tank does look clearer and better and no one has died >> so am I just being a worry wart?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Andarial said:


> Ok after my first water change the ammonia level has dropped to 0- 0.25 ppm and the nitrites are still at zero.The PH is still at 7.2 though it had changed to 7.6 for a day, though I didn't worry about it much. But something happened to the Nitrates, they spiked to 40 ppm now I wonder if this is because I used Prime, I plan on making another water change soon, but should I not use Prime then? The water change will probably be performed sometime in the middle of next week it's only Friday right now. The tank does look clearer and better and no one has died >> so am I just being a worry wart?


Nitrates rising is naturally, the partial water change will weekly handle that--provided you don't overload the biological balance of course. If there are fish in the tank, i would do a pwc to reduce nitrates now. 40ppm is not bad, but it is best to keep them 20ppm or lower. Prime can be used with each water change. It also handles nitrates, not sure how, but it does.


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## Andarial (Feb 12, 2011)

I woke up yesterday and my tank is completely clear ^^ YAY, I still have a little bit of ammonia in my tank and still heavy on the Nitrates but it's getting better so its working! And the fish seem to be doing better


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