# Powerhead?



## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

My oscars are getting big and I noticed they're getting "gaspy" perhaps not enough aeration? I was thinking about adding a powerhead. Powerhead VS bubbler I'd perfer the powerhead for a natural look. Opinions are welcome and needed on is this an accurate desicion as well what brands and size or any other advice. THANKS


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## HotPleco (Nov 4, 2009)

A Powerhead with Venturi input will easily outdue a Bubbler with putting Oxygen into the aquarium. 

I'd go with a powerhead hook airline into it, to put Oxygen into the aquarium


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## Lupin (Aug 2, 2006)

The surface agitation allows gas exchange by dispersing the CO2. I'd certainly go with powerheads rather than a bubbler although even bubblers are useful in some situations. If you do not have a generator, invest in a battery operated airpump, extra packs of batteries, tubing and airstones aside from getting your new powerhead.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Were it me, (and it ain't) I would maybe consider adding more filtration for the two Oscars in addition to the Eheim classic you have unless it is in the size range of the Eheim 2128. The Oscars will continue to grow and would appreciate filter or filters, that can move six to eight times the number of gallons the tank holds each hour. 75x6 is 450 gal per hour. Lowering the water level in the tank may also provide a bit more oxygen exchange in addition to airstones,bubblers ,etc.


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## statenfish (Sep 1, 2009)

what size tank? my oscars are getting big as well... i run an eheim classic 2215 and a 2217 as well as an xp4 set up as a water polisher containing only descening sizes of filter pads and floss..i also have two large bubble disks. all the filters use spray bars to assure surface aggitiation.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

What do you guys think of this one?

Maxi-Jet Powerhead


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## statenfish (Sep 1, 2009)

id definatly go with the airstones fist...if you are really low on oxygen levels all a powerhead will do is circulate oxygen deprived water around the tank


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## HotPleco (Nov 4, 2009)

statenfish said:


> id definatly go with the airstones fist...if you are really low on oxygen levels all a powerhead will do is circulate oxygen deprived water around the tank



Only if you don't put a Venturi on it :-?


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

so I can attach any air pump to a powerhead or only certain types?


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

I went with an Ehime wide output for now... we'll see what happens


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

Forgot to mention... I installed it and increases the velocity quite a bit but I don't like it facing the front of the tank so I had my LFS order an Eheim oxygen diffuser.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

The LFS was unable to find the diffuser so for the time being I cut the wide angle and added a peice of tubing on the inside the siliconed it back together on the angle I wanted. Diffuser should be arriving this week. I haven't seen any reviews on the Eheim Diffusers so I will post my opinion and if anyone is interested I'll post pics of it in action.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

Ok got the diffuser in and it works nicely. There's a nice even bubble wall across the whole back of the tank. However my fish are still gaspy and i've seen the pleko go to the top of the tank and take a gulp of air. What am I supposed to do now?


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## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

Have you tested the tank water for ammonia, nitrate, nitrate, and ph? Sometimes gasping fish can be a sign of water quality issues.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

I use the test strips (i know i know) they read clean. I had my LFS do a test about a month ago... they said my water could not be better. It may have changed between then and now. I'll take some to get tested anyway. I read that if you to water changes with warm this may happen, is there any truth to that? I try and make the water going in as about the same temp as the water that already in the tank.


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## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

Are the fish gasping all the time, or just after water changes? I always try to match new water temperature, as closely as I can. Slightly warmer water, IMO, is better than adding water that is colder.
If fish are gasping, only after a water change, a change in ph could be causing the problem.

Do you have test strips now? If so, test the tank water and tap water. Post the results of both test.

You say the lfs tested a month ago. A lot can happen in a months time. I have seem ammonia and nitrites go from zero, to unsafe levels in a day. The test strips are better than nothing, but if you can fork out the money for an API liquid test kit, that would be great. The test kit will last a long time, so in the long run, cheaper than the test strips.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

*Tank:*
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Hardness 120 
Alkalinity 180
PH 7.6

*Tap:*
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Hardness 50
Alkalinity 80
PH 6.8-7.2

I haven't really noticed if it's particularly after a water change or not. I'll have to pay attention to that.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

JerseyBird97 said:


> *Tank:*
> Nitrate 0
> Nitrite 0
> Hardness 120
> ...


You appear to have some calcareous rock in the tank that is raising the hardness and pH. The tank should not be higher than the tap water, unless you are purposely raising the hardness for particular fish, like rift lake cichlids. You mention oscars, and they do better in acidic water but are adaptable; they were be ideal in your tap water parameters. The difference in hardness between your tank and the tap water could be causing problems with water changes. Fluctuations like this are hard on fish.

I suggest you find what is raising the hardness in your tanks and remove it. It could be the gravel or rocks/shells/coral items.

Byron.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

The only things in the tank are corse substrate... appears to be some sort of shell and the large rocks that you see in the pictures.


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## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

Sounds like the substrate could be crushed coral. This can raise ph and hardness.As for the rock, you can try placing it in a bucket of water for a few days and test for changes in ph & hardness.What % of water do you change out on water change days? Water changes more often and in smaller amounts, would help reduce the chance of shock, that could happen with large water chages.As far as changing out the substrate, not sure of the best way to do it. Any changes, you will want to make gradualy. Fish can adapt well to slow changes, a sudden change would not be good. Perhaps, slowly change out the subtrate over a couple months time.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

I do about 20% changes twice a week due to the waste load. I've been thinking about changing out the substrate anyway... not a fan of white.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I think TM is correct, white gravel is often calcareous, comprised of dolomite, marble, or crushed coral. It is primarily intended for marine, rift lake cichlid and livebearer tanks, fish that require hardness and higher (alkaline) pH conditions.

I would recommend replacing it with a darker inert gravel, regular aquarium gravel or similar. Buying it in bulk from the fish store will be less expensive.

On the partial water change, twice a week is fine but it should be more than 20%. I would recommend 40-50% twice a week, or 70% once a week. Larger cichlids produce a lot of waste as you know, and it is the urine and liquefied solid waste that can only be removed by a water change. Filters and bacteria break down the solid into liquid, but they can't remove it. However, change your substrate first, then go to the increased pwc. I think you will see the improvement in your fish.

Byron.


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## JerseyBird97 (Sep 13, 2009)

Thanks for all your advice guys... I'll get crakin on changing out that substrate.


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