# How many gallons/how hard to move



## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

48"x14.5"x18 tank is how many gallons? The owner says they have 3" of gravel substrate in it too, and we'd be draining it and transporting the fish in buckets with bubblers. Does this sound like a huge pain? I'm getting everything she has for the tank for free, so i mean i'm only out the truck rental from uhaul.

She's moving and doesn't want risk transporting the tank to Texas. there's a 15 year old angel something and a handful of other fish in it, too. Any help would be appreciated since we're thinking of doing this tomorrow!


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## BarbH (May 23, 2011)

genewitch said:


> 48"x14.5"x18 tank is how many gallons? The owner says they have 3" of gravel substrate in it too, and we'd be draining it and transporting the fish in buckets with bubblers. Does this sound like a huge pain? I'm getting everything she has for the tank for free, so i mean i'm only out the truck rental from uhaul.
> 
> She's moving and doesn't want risk transporting the tank to Texas. there's a 15 year old angel something and a handful of other fish in it, too. Any help would be appreciated since we're thinking of doing this tomorrow!


 
I am thinking probably either a 50 or 55 gallon tank, have you tried googling the dimensions and seeing what you get? If all glass the tank itself will be about 100 lbs empty. I would remove the gravel from the tank and put it into one or two five gallon buckets. It will be some work but for free I would say it is worth it. Get someone strong to help, I had gotten a 50 gallon in May that was a pita to get into the apartment since I live on the second floor and I had a gal from work helping me move it. We got it in okay although I was sure that thing was going to take me down the stairs  Removing the gravel will help to make it more managable to move.


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## dhutch (Aug 1, 2011)

54.233766233766.....it's going to be pretty heavy with that much gravel in it. BUT two grown men in okay shape should be able to move it. So long as you guys are emptying the water completely. Try and transport the fish in buckets using the tanks water, as to not put the fish under anymore stress.Try and keep the buckets out of the son when transporting or waiting to move them. Small bodies of water will heat up rather quickly and be deadly to the fish. 

Also, those portable battery powered air pumps wouldn't be a bad idea. I know walmart, petco, and petsmart sell the splitters for tubing. That way you could effectively run 4 or 5 air stones off one pump into each of the separate buckets. You'd be out the cost of a air pump, some 1/8" tubing, few air stones, splitter, and batteries. And having a backup air pump for power outages isn't a bad thing to have laying around anyways. You'd probably be out like $25 for everything. 

Here's a drawing of what I'm talking about. Obviously objects aren't drawn to size.


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## DKRST (Jan 11, 2011)

Don't lift the tank with _anything _in it! Gravel is really heavy and any torque you accidentally apply to the tank will crack something. An empty 55 is not too bad for two people to move if you are in decent physical condition (watch your backs). You probably have about 100 lbs of gravel to deal with and, I'm guessing, 50-75 lbs of tank?.


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## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

i think i would be worried about the seal after carrying a tank with extra weight in it, i would carry it empty. that goes for both water and/or gravel. i think i would even do this when moving a 10 gallon tank.. it would never hurt.


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## AbbeysDad (Mar 28, 2011)

You *NEVER EVER* transport a tank with anything in it except AIR! 

Before the move, make sure you will place the tank where the structure will hold it! The filled weight of a 55g tank is about 625 lbs. Determine where everything is going to plug in and maybe, just maybe install a GFIC outlet and/or get a power strip?

Siphon off only enough water in one or more 5 gal buckets to contain the fish. 
The rest of the water goes down the drain or via a hose out on the lawn. Scoop all of the gravel into one or more 5 gal buckets (not the ones with the fish!) - keep damp.

Rent an appliance dolly to move the EMPTY tank. Pad the bottom and back (cardboard/towels works well), then stand the empty tank up on its side and strap to the dolly to secure. With help, load the tank, dolly and all into the truck or van. 
Set-up the tank in it's new home. 
Clean and add the gravel (DO NOT CLEAN WITH CHLORINATED WATER!) and conditioned water that is at the appropriate temperature. Install the cleaned filter with new media and the heater and ensure everything is working properly. You will need to acclimate the fish to your water - I like to use a drip method - you should research.


good luck with the tear down, move and setup.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

This tank sounds larger than 55 gallon's according to measurement's posted and I agree that it should be made as light as possible.
I would empty some gravel from the tank into five gallon bucket(s) and would fill the buckets half full of tank water and place the filter material in this bucket as well. Keeping the filter material wet in old tank water will preserve bacteria(good kind) .
Would place fish in another bucket of tank water with battery operated air stone.
If you plan on using the gravel then you will need to place it in bucket's as well.
Would not attempt to move this large a tank with more than an inch of gravel and or water.
Would try and preserve the filter material as mentioned, and a cup or two of the existing substrate (mesh bag) in tank water, to help prevent the need for cycling the aquarium which in my view would need to be done if one cleaned all the gravel as well as the filter and or replaced existing filter media with new.
Hauling old aquarium water is a pain but can be of benefit in cases where fishes have been kept in tanks with less than regular maint.
Fishes will try and adapt to water condition's they find themselves in, even poor condition's (no choice), and sudden changes to water chemistry, even for the better,,, can sometimes affect osmoregulatory function of fishes negatively,, as fishes try and adapt to very different condition's.Some fishes are able to adapt readily, and other's are under considerable stress. 
This is also why two or three smaller weekly water changes are desired over one large water change when attempting to improve water condition's and subsequent fishes health on possibly neglected tanks where water changes have not been regularly performed, or where water changes cannot dilute quickly enough the waste being produced in say over stocked tanks and fishes health has deteriorated as a result.
One would think that a large water change for the better would be the way forward, but it often result's in stressed and possibly sick fish who are suddenly ,,rather than gradually introduced to new enviornment.
If the tank's maint has been performed reularly,and water chemistry at new residence is not too far off that which fishes are accustomed to, then saving old aquarium water is a matter of preference.
If one chooses ,,they can simply use drip acclimation from new tank's water into holding bucket's of fishes, and slowly acclimate the fish over an hour or more, to the new water Just like you would from the store. This is always better than simply floating the bag of fish and then turning it loose into the tank or netting fish from a bucket and turning them loose .IMHO


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## alysalouise (Mar 15, 2011)

BarbH said:


> I am thinking probably either a 50 or 55 gallon tank, have you tried googling the dimensions and seeing what you get? If all glass the tank itself will be about 100 lbs empty. I would remove the gravel from the tank and put it into one or two five gallon buckets. It will be some work but for free I would say it is worth it. Get someone strong to help, I had gotten a 50 gallon in May that was a pita to get into the apartment since I live on the second floor and I had a gal from work helping me move it. We got it in okay although I was sure that thing was going to take me down the stairs  Removing the gravel will help to make it more managable to move.


 

A 55 gallon is not even close to 100lbs empty, just a correction, im only 112 lbs and i carried my 55 gallon empty up 3 flights of stairs alone, its not to hard to do. But I would save the media that they were using, and DO NOT RINSE THE ROCKS, like said before keep them in their own buckets to move, and you want to try and save about 50% or more of the fishes orginal water. Hope this helps a little


And yes carry the tank completly empty


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I agree with others, never lift or carry a tank over 20g that is not *completely* empty. Depending upon the age and the condition of the seams and how they were made, it is very, very easy to break the seal somewhere and you wouldn't even notice it--until water went in.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

okay she has 4 buckets and i am going to go get some today (my buckets have only ever had conditioned water in them and that's not changing today)

2-3 with gravel (she said 3 inches which seems like too much substrate to me, and i have a bunch here that is clean) and water and the filter, and the rest with fish and water. i think the fish should do in 2 buckets, and the rest can be water.

Thanks to you all, very helpful. I'm going to have to do this all again next month when we move, but still, free established tank.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

OH MY GOD THE POOR FISH. She had 3 "filter systems" but never gravel vacuumed. The water was foul smelling. the angel and corys are in a bucket with a bubbler right now, i have to get a stand, hers is so full of spiders. I am thinking we'lre going to do cinderblock stand for now.


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## dhutch (Aug 1, 2011)

genewitch said:


> OH MY GOD THE POOR FISH. She had 3 "filter systems" but never gravel vacuumed. The water was foul smelling. the angel and corys are in a bucket with a bubbler right now, i have to get a stand, hers is so full of spiders. I am thinking we'lre going to do cinderblock stand for now.


Make sure you support the middle if you're going that route for a stand right now. It may not be a bad idea to lay a piece of 1" thick plywood or MDF on top of the blocks then the tank.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

dhutch said:


> Make sure you support the middle if you're going that route for a stand right now. It may not be a bad idea to lay a piece of 1" thick plywood or MDF on top of the blocks then the tank.


Build a Strong, Inexpensive Aquarium Stand Random Bits of Projects

3 sets, since the tank is 15.5" "wide" and a cinder block is 16" wide...2x4s and stuff. we'll do it right.

Does anyone know if the top plastic ring of a tank needs to be siliconed in place? and is RTV silicone the right stuff?


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## BarbH (May 23, 2011)

genewitch said:


> Build a Strong, Inexpensive Aquarium Stand Random Bits of Projects
> 
> 3 sets, since the tank is 15.5" "wide" and a cinder block is 16" wide...2x4s and stuff. we'll do it right.
> 
> Does anyone know if the top plastic ring of a tank needs to be siliconed in place? and is RTV silicone the right stuff?


Not sure about rtv silcone, I know some people have used ge silcone clear for windows and doors and haven't had any problems. Want to make sure that it does not say anything like mold resistant. When I resealed my 50 gal I picked up aquarium silcone, I had researched the different types of silcone and had people tell me that they used the ge stuff without any problems. But I did not want to take a chance of it not holding up or anything possibly being released into my water over time.


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## dhutch (Aug 1, 2011)

genewitch said:


> Build a Strong, Inexpensive Aquarium Stand Random Bits of Projects
> 
> 3 sets, since the tank is 15.5" "wide" and a cinder block is 16" wide...2x4s and stuff. we'll do it right.
> 
> Does anyone know if the top plastic ring of a tank needs to be siliconed in place? and is RTV silicone the right stuff?


Not bad looking! Home depot sells Aquarium Sealant. That way you don't have to worry about getting silicone that is harmful to the tank life.


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## Mikaila31 (Dec 18, 2008)

Menards sells it too, DAP household silicone. Should have a fish on the package:-D


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

genewitch said:


> okay she has 4 buckets and i am going to go get some today (my buckets have only ever had conditioned water in them and that's not changing today)
> 
> 2-3 with gravel (she said 3 inches which seems like too much substrate to me, and i have a bunch here that is clean) and water and the filter, and the rest with fish and water. i think the fish should do in 2 buckets, and the rest can be water.
> 
> Thanks to you all, very helpful. I'm going to have to do this all again next month when we move, but still, free established tank.


Do be aware that fishes will be fine in bucket's with airstone for perhaps an hour or two tops.After that,, ammonia produced by all fishes asumming they are breathing, could begin to rise to toxic levels.
Pays to make such moves as quickly as possible.
If fishes are going to be in bucket's for much longer,then either adding some of the saved ,wet,filter material to the bucket's or changing out some water for fresh dechlorinated water would in my view be necessary in bucket(s) holding fish.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

*Emergency*



1077 said:


> Do be aware that fishes will be fine in bucket's with airstone for perhaps an hour or two tops.After that,, ammonia produced by all fishes asumming they are breathing, could begin to rise to toxic levels.
> Pays to make such moves as quickly as possible.
> If fishes are going to be in bucket's for much longer,then either adding some of the saved ,wet,filter material to the bucket's or changing out some water for fresh dechlorinated water would in my view be necessary in bucket(s) holding fish.


Roger that, we do have a farily large problem... the pH difference between the cleaned tank with my water and hers mixed is 7.4 and her tank was running 6.0...

What should i do? i don't have any tank that acidic in my house and changing water in the bucket they are in is raising it by .2 each 32 ounces.

I've been monitoring the ammonia levels and they were rising so i did a few cupfuls of new water and checked the pH. These fish were living in pretty dank conditions... but i don't know how fast i can acclimate them to pH in a bucket without ammonia poisoning setting in.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

Old Tank Syndrome is what i am reading right now, and it looks like, since she only vacuumed every 6 months that nitrates were through the roof; and hydrogen is responsible for the low pH. I did a PARTIAL water change while i was at her house today, so i assume the pH was even LOWER than 6.0 in the tank prior to a 5 gallon change. the 5 gallons was probably a 20% water change at that point, so...


Wow. I really hope i can save these fish.

Edit: evidently what i am doing right now is called the drip method, someone mentioned this earlier. The angel is fist sized and the pleco is huge, too. like 5x as big as the fake julie.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

*some pictures*

while waiting on the drip acclimation thing:
First picture, freshly filled after cleaning and verifying the stand was stable:









Drippin bubbling:









clearer water already:


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Yes, Drip acclimation is what I would do maybe three to four drops per second, So long as water from tank has been dechlorinated.;-) Can also add a few drops of dechlorinator to bucket if ammonia rises too fast.
Placing some of the saved filter material in bucket is also an option assuming it is still wet in old tank water and has not been subjected to chlorine or chloramines from tap.
After thirty or forty minutes of drip acclimation,,I have at times cheated a little, by adding a cup full of new tank water to bucket in addition to drip at 10 minute interval's.
Would maybe throw towel over the bucket while drip acclimating and leave lights off over the aquarium for 24 hours after fish are introduced to prevent any undo stress.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

I let it drip from ~half full (with a sponge from the cannister that i had rinsed some foul gunk off of, but not all) to about 7/8ths full over the course of an hour and a half last night. then i skimmed the bucket for leftover plant stuff (she had this really gross looking, red kelp feeling, sickly green colored plant that was all over the top of the tank - i got rid of it.)

Then i tried to catch a few, but only got the tetras without stressing everyone out. I don't have a nylon-style net large enough to catch the angel without its barbs getting stuck (i wish she'd told me that the angel had barbs and she didn't have a net for it) so i ended up just gently pouring a couple gallons of the bucket water into the tank. I tested ammonia a few minutes ago and it all looks good. I'll watch ammonia and nitrites today, as well as temperature.

For the biological/mechanical it's an Eheim 105 L/h canister, i completely stripped one level of the filter and replaced the little balls, i put in a new top filter media (cotton looking stuff), and cleared out the bottom sponge just enough so water could flow through it again. before i did that i brought it to the tank and squeezed some of the brown liquid out into the tank (prior to the fish going in by like 4 hours) and swished it around like i saw in a "quick cycle guide" on youtube. THen i rinsed the bottom layer of balls off a bit, filled the cannister and put the filter in, locked it back up and let it filter the tank for about 4 hours before adding the fish.

The flow on the filter looks REALLY good. If i maintain it, is105 L/h enough to keep the tank happy if i plant it well and do water changes? I really stay on top of tank maintenance and having this sand bottom makes my life easier.

edit: Pictures coming in a minute.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

These are clickable for full size, hooray for figuring out forum editing!

I need to clean the glass, but since i am doing maintenance still i figured it could wait till the tank was planted and stuff. I tend to make a mess on the floor when i do that stuff:

There's also the three tetras(?) in this shot.

here's the Angel, and 1 Cory (Fake Julie?):


Not in these pictures: The huge pleco.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

*How long to wait for ammonia?*

How long do i have to wait to see if it's cycled properly because of the filter media? i'd like to get my corydoras into it.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

genewitch said:


> How long do i have to wait to see if it's cycled properly because of the filter media? i'd like to get my corydoras into it.


To make sure we are on the same page: this is new (or cleaned) substrate, new/cleaned filter media. And obviously fresh water. Was the wood kept wet and not rinsed? And there is a plant, and some floating stem plants?

Where are the corys now? In a functioning aquarium, or a temporary pail?


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

Byron said:


> To make sure we are on the same page: this is new (or cleaned) substrate, new/cleaned filter media. And obviously fresh water. Was the wood kept wet and not rinsed? And there is a plant, and some floating stem plants?
> 
> Where are the corys now? In a functioning aquarium, or a temporary pail?


New substrate, Partially cleaned filter media (it was completely clogged, now has high flow) logs were kept wet. I ahve all the original substrate in a bucket with water outside. I was going to do pantyhose thing, but i squeezed a ton of brown gunk into the tank from the filter before i cleaned the sponge in it.


Ammonia and nitrites read zero after 1 night of all the fish in it (3 tetra, 2 corydora, large pleco, angelfish)
Water is nearly all fresh, about 5-10G of old strained water. I added 4ml of prime when i ran the water into it, too.

My corys are in two tanks, i have 6. the albinos are in a planted 10g with sand and julies are in a 30G with gravel. i want to move the julies asap.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

genewitch said:


> New substrate, Partially cleaned filter media (it was completely clogged, now has high flow) logs were kept wet. I ahve all the original substrate in a bucket with water outside. I was going to do pantyhose thing, but i squeezed a ton of brown gunk into the tank from the filter before i cleaned the sponge in it.
> 
> 
> Ammonia and nitrites read zero after 1 night of all the fish in it (3 tetra, 2 corydora, large pleco, angelfish)
> ...


I would move the julii corys. From what you've described, the bacteria should be fine. They will have multiplied some already. And Prime is effective for 24-48 hours. If, and I say if, the ammonia (or nitrite) should rise to .25 I would do a 50% water change with Prime. Otherwise, leave it.

Byron.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

*More pictures*

Full rez (click) no flash! Corys were drip acclimated in a bucket, i'll be moving more plants in soon!





You can almost see the pleco. His eyes are under that lip on the right of the center log. He's pretty ugly, imo, kind of a yellowish brown color. What do they eat? Shrimp pellets and algae wafers? I have garlic algae and blood worms and brine shrimp too.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Byron said:


> I would move the julii corys. From what you've described, the bacteria should be fine. They will have multiplied some already. And Prime is effective for 24-48 hours. If, and I say if, the ammonia (or nitrite) should rise to .25 I would do a 50% water change with Prime. Otherwise, leave it.
> 
> Byron.


+one for what Byron said.
I would consider trying to source some malaysian trumpet snails if you are able.They provide an invaluable service with sand substrates in my view by constantly sifting through the sand while searching for food which in turn, prevent's dead area's in substrate where hydrogen sulfide could possibly accumulate depending on depth of sand.

Not everyone enjoy's snails,and in their absence,,I would sift the sand with finger's or plastic fork,or other tool after weekly water change and vaccuming up that waste which appear's on the surface.
Sifting the sand BEFORE vaccuming is not in my view the way forward, for much of what we wish to vaccum up will get buried in the sand. always better to sift the sand AFTER vaccuming up the waste from fishes and or foods.
I like the tank very much and the Angelfish is indeed, a large one.
Just be careful rinsing /cleaning filter material which should never be subjected to tapwater containing chlorine or chloramines.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

1077 said:


> +one for what Byron said.
> I would consider trying to source some malaysian trumpet snails if you are able.They provide an invaluable service with sand substrates in my view by constantly sifting through the sand while searching for food which in turn, prevent's dead area's in substrate where hydrogen sulfide could possibly accumulate depending on depth of sand.


I put about 50-60 pounds of cleaned sand in the bottom. Fifty was just at the rim of the bottom, to get an additional 3/4" required another half bucket.

It's not really deep, i can't bury a potted plant completely.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

genewitch said:


> I put about 50-60 pounds of cleaned sand in the bottom. Fifty was just at the rim of the bottom, to get an additional 3/4" required another half bucket.
> 
> It's not really deep, i can't bury a potted plant completely.


You will want to remove plant's from pot's before planting. (Just in case you weren't aware);-)


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

1077 said:


> You will want to remove plant's from pot's before planting. (Just in case you weren't aware);-)


what? I wasn't aware... is there a reason for that? I potted it myself. :-D



you can see it's pot just to the left of the heater on the sand there.

Also, i planted a whole bunch of stuff from my 10G sand tank that i am cycling again. and i added the sponge filter. The corydoras like it, i'm a sucker for watching them play in bubbles.

Also, here's the pleco, finally:

Is there a way to stop him from digging out the sand? he makes a huge nest under there and it looks like he's down to the glass at the bottom. Not sure, i haven't moved the log yet. I was thinking of turning the log over till he can hide under it without acting like a daschund.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

I thought perhaps by potted , you meant the little plastic pot's that plant's sometimes come in.
Plant's root's need to be able to spread out and draw nutrient's from substrate as well as nutrient's that you may add via liquids, (see flourish comprehensive plant supplement by Seachem).
You can plant in pot's but you might consider either using potting soil in the bottom of pot about 2/3 full ,stick the plant in,and then cover the soil with fine gravel (or sand).
Root tabs can be placed in the pot as well as under plant's placed in sand without pot's.(once a month)
Pleco isn't gonna hurt anything by digging him/herself a place to rest but may uproot plant's while foraging around the tank in search of food after dark (is what they do) and their size alone, can make it hard sometimes keeping plant's rooted . Would see that the pleco has food avaiable regularly and perhaps place a slice of zuchinni ,sweet potato, Romain lettuce, a couple times a week in the tank in addition to foods that it will scavenge that are being offered to other fishes.Might place zuchinni and sweet potato in small dish of water and put it in microwave for 30 to 40 seconds to soften it up a bit before placing it in the aquarium.
If you do this after lights off for the day,, he/she may leave plant's alone.
Research plant's before buying to see what light they may need and whether or not they are true aquatic plant's. some plant's offered at chain stores labeled as.. aquatic may or may not be .
I did note what looks to be Java fern ? planted in substrate to left of pleco in last photo. This is a easy low light to moderate light plant but will do a bit better by attaching it to the wood or a rock with thread or fishing line as opposed to being planted in substrate. The roots will over time,,attach to the wood or rock (not so much smooth rocks) and draws it's nutrient's from the water which is why product like Flourish comprehensive by Seachem is good idea for it will benefit ALL of the plant's especially...those like Java fern and or anubia.
I might keep the water level in the tank up to the level of trim on the tank to help prevent CO2 produced by fishes and bacterial activity from escaping the tank too quickly such as happens when there is too much surface disturbance from water returning from filter through spray bar above the surface, or return flow from Hang on the Back filter's in water fall type fashion.
Might run bubbler's and or sponge filter at night when plant's use up oxygen and leave then off during eight to ten hour lighting period during the day when plant's are scavenging CO2 available.
Lastly,, I would buy as many plant's that will thrive in low to moderate light as I could cram in the tank. some will take off and other's maybe not ,but by heavily planting the tank from the outset, (maybe no more than 15 percent of open substrate area) and by placing lights on strict eight or ten hour lighting period,,Algae will have a tougher time taking hold. Waste from fishes can be utilized by plant's and the need for vaccuming the substrate is greatly reduced.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

thanks 1077. I'll tie the java fern to the log, feed the pleco (i dropped a couple algae chips next to him when he was on the glass and he dropped down and sat on them), and poke the sand as everyone has been telling me. I will look in to flourish, and possibly a DIY CO2 system as i want the bubbles from a pump for the corydoras, they dance in it, it's fun to watch. 

All in all all the fish look happy, the corydoras from her took to mine really quick, they shoal (that the word?) together and hang out near the plants and pleco when they're resting and swim around with eachother when they're not. There is an odd one out, a slightly green slightly albino corydora that i'd like to get friends for (2 more baby ones) which would put me at 10 cories total. the ones she gave me are 3 years old and they're maybe 10% bigger than my biggest fake julii.

And special thanks to Byron and whoever else said that putting corydoras on gravel was like punishing them... they are the happiest fish ever when they get to sit in the sand on their little fins and sift the sand through their cheeks!


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Corys do like sand, I admit.

I agree the plant (all plants) should be planted directly in the substrate. The plant roots work with the bacteria in the substrate to break down organics into nutrients the plants can use, plus it keeps the substrate much healthier. Using pots will not achieve this. Better to let nature do the work naturally.;-)

As 1077 said, pleco love to dig. They will excavate huge depressions esp at night. If you have a pleco, expect it. Species vary and individuals too, but if this one starts uprooting larger plants, the trick is to place a flat piece of rock on the sand next to the stem. A bit of rock maybe 3-5 inches width usually works. When I recently changed the substrate in my 115g from fine gravel to playsand, I decided to move my pleco (Hypancistrus furunculus) into the 90g which still has fine gravel. I knew from his actions in the 115g with gravel that the sand would be a mess with his digging.

Byron.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

I may try to find the pleco a new home, my other tank is too small. Won't him digging up everything move the food and waste under the sand, so i can't vacuum it properly?

He's kind of out of place with all the other fish, anyhow.

i should note that he utterly decimated the tank last night, even though i left a few algae wafers around for him.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

genewitch said:


> I may try to find the pleco a new home, my other tank is too small. Won't him digging up everything move the food and waste under the sand, so i can't vacuum it properly?
> 
> He's kind of out of place with all the other fish, anyhow.
> 
> i should note that he utterly decimated the tank last night, even though i left a few algae wafers around for him.


Sounds like a pleco...


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

tank is still doing OK, even though i never see the angelfish eat. Also, i was hoping someone could identify the fish that we call "Fancyfins" hopefully i got a good enough angle on it.

Tank now has 19 fish and a couple of snails. 12 Corydoras catfish (4 green, 3 albino, 5 fake julii) 2 tetras, angelfish, fancyfins, 3 opal gouramis. We're going to add more gouramis and bring all the corydora schools to 6-8, so 18-24 corys and maybe 3 or 4 more gouramis. We're really suckers for gouramis and corys, they're the coolest fish we've seen. Tetras are just so boring, at least the corys and the kissing fish have character.

as usual, click for larger:


And here's the one i have no idea what it is, but i want more:

It's bluer in real life. And it has side fins that go along the body a ways, not tiny ones like the gouramis around it. Fancyfins.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

It bears a danio resemblance. Is "Fancyfins" what the store calls it?


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

Byron said:


> It bears a danio resemblance. Is "Fancyfins" what the store calls it?


No, it came with the tank, and that's what we call it. Let me look at pictures of danios.


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## genewitch (Jun 27, 2011)

*Update*

All the fish in this move survived except fancyfins. The tank did not survive, however. I have replaced it with a 65G tank which is available for viewing on my aquariums pictures page.

We have no idea what happened to the longfin danio :| it disappeared a month or two ago.


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