# New tank



## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

i was thinking of converting my fw 20 gallon to sw and just want to know a few things..
can i keep my existing tank the same like same sand and water and then just add the salt mix? would this make it cycle faster or would it be cycled still? 
for live rock do you need something special for it to grow on or will it grow on limestone or clay pots?
and what are some easy living rock to start with i like the tenticle like plants that you see nemo swim through in the movies... sorry for being a newb  but i have done some research but would like more direct answers

sorry last thing will sandblasting sand do okay in saltwater?
thanks for your time


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

kieffer5 said:


> i was thinking of converting my fw 20 gallon to sw and just want to know a few things..
> can i keep my existing tank the same like same sand and water and then just add the salt mix?
> *Aragonite sand is what you would need for saltwater environment, which is probably not what you are keeping in a freshwater tank. Most common sand for freshwater is a silica sand... and no, silica sand would not be a healthy sand for saltwater.*
> 
> ...


I will encourage you to explore the world of saltwater, its a fun and rewarding hobby... however, it can also be quite expensive and requires careful planning to be successful. I don't suggest a newby start out with less than 30 or more gallons. Nano tanks are much more difficult to keep stable and healthy, and lack of experience makes it even more difficult. A failed marine tank is the most expensive and can be difficult to "clean up" or "fix" once things go downhill.

A 20 gallon tank for a marine environment is going to be very limited for animals and is most suited for keeping corals and other invertebrates such as shrimp, crabs, snails, etc. There are not many marine fish that can stay in a 20 gallon tank long term, and the number of fish that can be kept together in a small marine tank is very few (1 - 2 small fish that stay 3 inches or less in size). 

If you should decide to pursue a saltwater tank and anemone & clownfish are what you desire, please do your research ahead of time. Each species of clownfish has a specific species of anemone they host in, and as mentioned before, these get very large and require very stable water chemistry. The best size starter tank for an anemone/clownfish environment would be 75 gallons or larger... the bigger the better. (the larger the tank the easier it is to keep water chemistry stable)

Saltwater needs to be premixed before adding it to the tank beyond the initial start up of the tank. This requires a ready supply of freshwater (RO/DI water, never tap water) in one container and a ready supply of premixed saltwater always available for water changes in another container with power head for mixing. Other supplies that are vital would be a hydrometer or refractometer to measure salt content in the water (salinity), a skimmer (something a newbie should never be without, especially in a nano tank), power heads, good filtration (many options available), and proper lighting. Even a marine tank that contains only substrate, water, and live rock still needs proper lighting for the organisms within the rock to grow and survive/thrive. What lighting is needed depends on depth of the tank and what animals are kept in it. Corals are not created equal and all have their own specific needs/requirements for lighting and this applies to anemones as well. Depending on your environment, a heater or chiller may also be required, again, depending on what animals are kept.

Saltwater doesn't have to be difficult, but it is very different from freshwater, and is much more of an exact science than freshwater. There is no room for slacking on water changes, less room overall for error. Depending on the salt mix chosen and water supply used, may marine tanks require additives to keep a healthy balance of minerals in the tank (calcium, iodine, magnesium, strontium, etc). 

All of these things should be researched and understood before you begin.

If you need further help, please ask.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

hey thanks for the info i feel pretty dumb about asking these questions now after doing a ton of research but i do still have some questions like can i have too much water flow what is the recommended flow rate per gallon? also my tank is only 16in deep so whats the needed lights i know it changes for certain corals but like an average please thanks and last question is how should i go about buying corals i know im a ways off from that but like buying frags or whole live rocks i just dont know what to ask the store keepers
thanks again


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*well*

i usualy shoot for at least a turn over rate of ten times the tank ...so a 20 gallon in theory would like at least 200 gallons per hour..this can vary from what you are keeping.as fara s lights i would shoot for T5s or power compacts as they will be able to provide the proper spectrum and lumens you will want in the long run.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

thanks for the input what will florescent or regular bulbs work in a tank this size though


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

That still takes us back to the original point... it is entirely dependent on what you plan to keep for animals. In a tank that has no corals, nothing dependent on light for survival, there are a lot of things that can be done, such as a standard fluorescent aquarium light... however, if this is intended to be a reef tank, and knowing that 20 gallons isn't good for much beyond corals... then the stronger lighting is going to be a must. How strong will depend on animal species. Some corals can thrive under a standard T5, some would need HO T5. 
This is the time to start deciding what animals you are going to keep. The best set ups are those that are carefully planned and where the tank is set up to accommodate the animals. It can be quite difficult (and more expensive) to set up an environment and then go in search of something that you like that can thrive in that environment. 
If you need help with the animals part, please just ask. If you want suggestions, again, just ask.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

okay thanks i got better lighting now its t5 but i got it from some guy with a bunch of live rock and on a piece of the live rock was a sea urchin and he said i could just have it i was wondering if its reef safe i have heard no but just to make sure before i bring it to the lfs i would ask you guys...its black with long spines about 1 to 2 inches my thought was a pencil urchin what do you think i will post a pic also


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

also my tank now i got live sand and live rock from established tanks and also took like 10 gallons of his water too thats why i have moved kinda quick also i couldnt pass it up since i has only paid about 90 $ for everything including the light and rock :-D


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

That appears to be a pencil urchin, and no, they are not reef safe.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

another question sorry if im annoying this is just the greatest place ever to find answers so i made a stand for my light to rest on and was wondering if having about an inch of overhand of the metal going into my tank would hurt the fish like would the metal go into the tank or is the amount so little it doesnt matter? and i made it about 4 inchs off the water is this too high or is it ok... 16 in tall tank with 96 watt actinic bulb and 10000 k 96 watt bulb


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

Can you please post a photo of it so we can get a better visual?


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

the stand


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

What material is that stand made out of? I notice the light lays directly across it, I am concerned about heat/temp and melting of the material...

It also looks like the light is tilted slightly upwards in the front? It may just be the angle of the photo, hard to tell... but the light should sit flat above the tank. If its propped at an angle then light penetration is not going to be directly into the tank over the animals as it would need to be. 

Its hard to say from this photo, but this doesn't look like the safest way to set things up. Safety is important and this doesn't look "safe" to me. 

Is this an open top tank? There will be salt creep to keep in mind, and a light fixture above the tank with nothing between it and the water can be a fire hazard due to salt creep. There is no way to avoid salt creep completely, so it should be watched for and everything around/near the tank should be wiped off daily. Saltwater is more conductive of electricity than freshwater is, so also keep watch on cords and around outlets for any dripping or salt creep build up. Personally, I would cover this tank with glass cover.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

ya i have an acrylic top on it and it is very sturdy actually so its good i think its iron idk though we use it in welding class so thats what i had should i just vinyl dip it? would that make it safe for the tank? and its all metal so the heat wont matter


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*well*

salt,water,and metal dont work well together...iron oxide will cause allsorts of problems so i would recomend water proofing it.


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

Agreed, metal and saltwater together are a no no. The problem with vinyl dipping the metal is as I mentioned earlier, the vinyl will melt if the light sits directly on it. This is the reason why the manufacturers make the light stands/legs and other brackets to mount to the edges of the light fixture where its intended, never sitting directly under the light bulb where the most heat is going to be found. 

My suggestion has to be to get a proper sized light fixture with the appropriate mounting equipment.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

okay i will change it up then i dont just have a ton of money to spend on a new light so do you have a design that you think would work better


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

oh ya how the h*%$ am i suppose to get the sea urchin out of my tank?????:hmm:


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*hmmm*

pencil urchins dont inflict painfull wounds so you can gently take it out if you must but i personaly like the urchins in my tanks they are mostly reef safe they will consume allalgaes including macro and calcerous.as far as the light you could hang it fromthe ceiling or a fixed mount.


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

Pencil urchins will eat everything, not one of the reef safe species. As for removing it, just reach in and pick it up, gently, of course. Pencil urchins are one of my favorites. We have used them for educational programs here for many yrs, one of the few that the kids can safely touch and handle. Mostly the kids get a kick out of the feel of the urchin walking across their hand.

As for the lighting suggestions, badxgillen had some good ideas to offer you. 

While I understand the frustration, one of the first rules of keeping a marine tank is to understand that its expensive. There is no way to make it cheap and make it work all at the same time. The equipment is expensive, maintenance can be expensive... and, depending on what is being kept and how it is set up, it can also be very time consuming. The smaller the tank the harder it will be to keep stable and healthy. 
In situations where people try to make it cheap, most end up spending more money than ever when things start to die. When the tank is full of live rock that averages 8.99/lb, corals that can range in price upwards of $100 each... even "cheap" marine fish are going to run into the $6 - $10 each range, death gets expensive.

In the case of the lighting, fires are expensive too. I am not telling you the things I have, suggesting the things I have just to spend your money. My goal is to see healthy animals and safe hobbyists. I have been working in this industry long enough to know the kind of damage that can happen and how simple of a thing can cause it. Trust me when I say, you really don't want to find out first hand.


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*hmmm*

i have several urchins including 3 pencil urchins ...the pencil urchins may harm something i dont know about but i keep mine with variouse corals soft,colonial and stony with no problems.there may be a coral that is tasty to it but not sure on that one.and as far as getting things to work for you cheap you must have patience and much research.you can setup a cheap salt water tank but only with the prior two things in good practice..i have recently setup a coral tank for under $100 but that is having been in this hobby for a few years.so take it slow and do it right.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

I am definitely just getting rid of the urchin its really sweet but I don't want to risk it.. still what's best for the lighting I'm not using the stand now till I figure out what to do ANY suggestions other then buy a new light thanks for all the help you have giving me
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## trukgirl (Jan 28, 2010)

I never personally saw my pencil urchin eat any coral before I moved him to my FOWLR tank, but better safe than sorry.

There is such a thing as bargain shopping for parts and other things related to saltwater tanks, but it can still be expensive.

The light looks extremely unsafe. Find out what kind of light and model # that is, and check a place like Marine Depot.com ... they carry many adaptors to hang light fixtures from the ceiling if that is possible for you. That would be much safer and you could still use the same light.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

Hey thanks ill look on there I might attach it to the wall like a shelf any thoughts on that?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

what do you think about this as a final livestock group
2 clown fish
diamond goby
scooter blenny
sixline wrasse
blue damsal fish
either another damsal fish or something else.... suggestions??? already have one damsal and one clown maybe ill get rid of the damsal and get something else or is just the clowns, gobys and wrasse enough...

inverts... 1 turbo snail 1 other snail not sure what kind yet... 1 or 2 emerald crabs what do you think? also hermit crabs if that would be good?

also i want a bubble anemone i know it will out grow my tank but then ill get a new one and sell the other one

for corals eventually i would like many mushrooms and some feather dusters or Xenia not sure on that yet cause its far off

please feel free to tell me if i have too much or the numbers i should have i do like to trade my fish when they get bigger so i dont expect to have all adult fish except maybe the clowns


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## trukgirl (Jan 28, 2010)

kieffer5 said:


> Hey thanks ill look on there I might attach it to the wall like a shelf any thoughts on that?
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


I don't think you can do that with those adaptors... they are meant to be strung from the ceiling like with wire or chain. (Wire is much less noticeable) If I didn't have my hood I would want to hang mine from the ceiling.


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## trukgirl (Jan 28, 2010)

kieffer5 said:


> what do you think about this as a final livestock group
> 2 clown fish
> diamond goby
> scooter blenny
> ...


WAIT on the anemone. Mine likes to be up near the light and remember I have 2x the light you have. I think you would definitely need to upgrade your light.

And please, PLEASE, forget the damsel. The only reason I am hanging on to my blue is that she was the very first saltwater fish I ever got. Please trust me I have had several different types of damsels and they can all get extremely NASTY and harrass other fish to the point of death.

I am not sure on the compatibility of those fish, but just remember to add them very slowly. As in wait a couple of weeks or more between to allow the bacteria in your live rock to adjust to the new bio load.

Check out my tank : 65g Softie Reef - 65 gallon Saltwater fish tank and yes when my tang is a little bigger he is going to a friend's tank. (my hubby came home with him one day, I know better lol)

I need some new pics and vids though.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

my light isnt good enough????????? what????!!!!!!!!! i have t5 light with 96 watt actinic lights and 10000 k 96 watt bulb what would be good enough?

and i cant really hang it from the ceiling i have a drop ceiling..

and if i get rid of the damsal then can i get another fish so then i would have 2 clowns, 1 sixline, 1 goby, 1 scooter and the other fish or would that be too much? and what about the inverts..


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## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

no nem. atleast not for a good year. they are very sensitive inverts. having clown fish + an anemone doesnt mean the clowns will host it. infact ive had clowns host corals, rocks, powerheads, anything THEY feel comfort in, not what you want them to feel comfort in. i believe your t5s are only 2 bulb? i would like to see a 4 bulb t5 at minimum for keeping the nem and thats prob. pushing it, so even better metal halides. 
i dont think i would do a scooter blenny as they are similiar to mandarins and like a good pod population for a food source. you may be able to keep one, but further down the road in a more mature tank. i suggest skipping the damsel as well. they can be nasty fish ( but so can that 6line, so add him last )
emerald crabs, just like any crab are opportunistic eaters, meaning what they get their hands on, is what they'll pick at and eat. this can go for hermit CRABS too. i personally wont keep crabs anywhere other then my refuge on my tank. esp the hermits they love killing snails for their shell, and then decide they dont like that shell. as for a clean up crew you'd be better off having a mixture of different snails IMO ( besides predatory kinds like bumble bees ) like 10 nass, 10 cerith, 10 astrea... something to keep in mind.


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## trukgirl (Jan 28, 2010)

kieffer5 said:


> my light isnt good enough????????? what????!!!!!!!!! i have t5 light with 96 watt actinic lights and 10000 k 96 watt bulb what would be good enough??


Ok so I thought you said in a previous post you had a 2-bulb t5 fixture. In a 36" fixture each bulb should be 39w, and in a 48" fixture each bulb should be 54w. So to say its 96w that sounds like something else. And to be honest the picture I saw of the bottom side of your fixture, the bulb inside looks like a power compact, not a t5. If you have a bulb that looks like this you have a power compact fixture. 96W Power Compact Bulb - Square Pin
That one is 96w. Do you have 2 of these? 

You could hang it with a drop ceiling but someone that knows how to do it would need to mount it. Marine depot also sells replacement legs to set it on your tank.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

Yes its a power compact my bad... is this okay and I got my live rock from a very established tank same with the sand and some water.. the clown had already hosted an anemone so that shouldn't be a problem
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

kieffer5 said:


> what do you think about this as a final livestock group
> 2 clown fish
> diamond goby
> scooter blenny
> ...


That is way too many fish for a 20 gallon tank. The pair of clown fish and the inverts will max that out quickly. If you put 2 clownfish together you are for sure going to get a male/female pair. (they must be same species if you intend to keep 2) While the male clown fish will stay small, about 3 inches, the female is going to grow to 5 - 6 inches, depending on what species you are working with. 

Saltwater fish cannot be packed into a tank the way freshwater fish can. Not only is territory an issue, but so is water chemistry, O2 levels, and aggression. If you try to cram that many animals into a 20 gallon tank all you're going to end up with is an expensive, dead/dying mess. 

In regards to the bubble anemone, not only do you not have sufficient lighting for it, and not only will it grow too large for the tank (quickly if its healthy), but you will be limited to what clown fish species you attempt to host to it... (percula or oscellaris) which are the 2 most docile and smallest of the clown species.... not a good mixture with more aggressive fish such as damsels in such a small environment.

The other thing you need to know is that corals and anemones both need space, not just for growth, but for territory of their own as well. Anemones can and will sting corals and other anemones that are too close. Anemones have the ability to move themselves around until they get comfortable somewhere. In a 20 gallon tank I would expect it to work its way around the tank, killing off any corals it gets into contact with. Inverts can be just as aggressive as fish, some even more so. 

For the stocking list you have here you are going to need at least a 75 gallon tank. These animals grow and/or multiply quickly. 
Have you given any thought to frag'ing the corals as they multiply? Mushrooms, when they're happy, will fill your tank in a matter of months. Xenia, when healthy, will take over live rock and push other animals/corals out as it does so. (example: a frag of 3 xenia polyps can turn into 50+ polyps/stalks in a matter of a few months)

This tank needs a lot more thought before stocking it with anything.


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## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

excuse me as i thought we were talking about a 65 gallon tank here, not a 20? 
further more, buying fish with the plan to rehome them when theyre to large isnt the best of ideas. not only is it near impossible to catch a fish in a tank full of live rock, moving them from one tank to the next is stressful on its own. it might be a different story if you had a smaller tank and a much larger tank and you were using the small tank to allow the fish to grow out to be big enough to mix in with the larger fish in the bigger tank, but buying fish because you like them but cant actually keep them long term isnt cool. just like i wouldnt adopt a child if i couldnt afford diapers.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

How about this as a stocking list.. 2 true percula clowns the goby and blenny then for coral what would be best the exenia and mushrooms or could I have the anemone just not with other coral... also what should be my invert list? If I have the goby and blenny would I not want many inverts? I would like a cleaner shrimp too but I'm pretty certain that wouldn't be possible in my tank 
As for the lighting you don't think its enough? I don't get that from what I have read it seems to be good for soft coral and anemone... its a 96 watt power compact to clean up the confusion... anything else?... um I am getting rid of the damsal because of what you have said so what is the inch per gallon you would recommend I am doing water changes every two weeks just to let you know do you think that is not enough or too much I take out about ten to fifteen percent each time
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

If you eliminate the blenny and work with a smaller species of goby you can maybe make it work... however, that is going to require much more maintenance as those fish grow/mature. There is still the issue of a bubble anemone quickly growing way too large for a 20 gallon tank. Mushrooms, if you have an outlet for the excess as they reproduce, could work provided the anemone doesn't kill them, which is likely to happen. 

What you're missing is a sufficient "cleaner crew" of blue leg hermits (not the electric blues, they are very aggressive) and snails of multiple species (they don't all eat the same things). Nassarius snails, nerite snails, a turbo snail, astrea snails, margarita snails... 

Another thing you need to allow for are the animals/organisms that are going to grow in and on the rock over time, show up out of nowhere... that all needs "space" that you aren't considering yet. The rule of thumb is that the strongest will survive, they overtake weaker species when crowded. 

Water changes, especially with that fully stocked of a tank, are going to need to be weekly or more just to keep up with the waste levels. A skimmer is only going to remove surface proteins, live rock will culture your bacteria to break ammonia down to nitrate, provided there is enough live rock/surface area for a large enough bacteria population to handle the waste load you are intending... but that still leaves nitrate which is going to build up quickly. 

There is no inches per gallon rule in saltwater. Saltwater animals function entirely different than freshwater. Knowing that most saltwater animals are still wild caught vs fresh water mostly captive bred, also makes a difference. Aggression and compatibility, space, feeding needs, all mean you need to know and understand the species of fish you are getting before you get it. Knowing what environment it came from will help offer some guidance on what it needs in captivity. 

The other thing I haven't seen mentioned yet in this thread is a quarantine tank. How large of a tank are you using for this? In saltwater, quarantine beyond the first fish is a must, especially when there are inverts in the main tank. Marine fish bring in a whole list of diseases and parasites, some of them not noticeable for weeks, sometimes masked by stress... and medications in a marine tank with sand, live rock, and inverts is a no no.


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## trukgirl (Jan 28, 2010)

Dawn - it is a 65 g not a 20.

Kieffer - are there 2 complete bulbs or just one?


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

okay so do you think it would be okay to have the anemone or would the Xenia be a better option obviously i want the anemone more cause of the clowns but i get that im limited with this tank and im not even really sure on xenias tank size needs i know it can grow fast but nothing seems to say the size of tank
this a good crew???????
2 snails
2 hermits
the goby 
what about a skunk cleaner shrimp???
or what do you think you know the fish and inverts i would like to have and i am content on not having all of them but i would like to hear more expertize advise from you it really helps and i appreciate it a ton i just want to add that the live rock i got was from a very well established tank and it was in the sump or refugium idk what it was in but under the tank for filtration where no fish or anything could eat off it and i got quite a bit of it about 2lbs per gallon i would guess and i also took some of his water and i have sand from a different established tank so i think i dont know for sure this is why im asking but i think it could have corals in it and i think the gobys and invert would do great because this is very bacteriaful(???) live rock but yet again im not the expert


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

no its a 20 and yes its two bulbs but its a power compact light


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

Oh and 10 gallon quarantine
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## trukgirl (Jan 28, 2010)

Ok, I'm confused. I thought the name of this thread was "new 65g tank" or something? Now its different? I know I'm not the only person that saw that since onefish said the same thing. I'm pretty sure that was the only reason I started looking at this thread....WTH???


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

It was always just new tank
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

kieffer5 said:


> i was thinking of converting my fw 20 gallon to sw and just want to know a few things..
> can i keep my existing tank the same like same sand and water and then just add the salt mix? would this make it cycle faster or would it be cycled still?
> for live rock do you need something special for it to grow on or will it grow on limestone or clay pots?
> and what are some easy living rock to start with i like the tenticle like plants that you see nemo swim through in the movies... sorry for being a newb  but i have done some research but would like more direct answers
> ...


This is the original post... which says 20 gallons.... am I missing something?


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

It's always been 20...
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

okay final stock list that i want and hopefully is doable 
1 clownfish
1 sixline wrasse
1 diamond goby
1 skunk cleaner shrimp
1 emerald crab 
1 turbo snail
1 other snail
either xenia or a bubble anemone 
mushrooms
idk what else any imput 
if i do water changes every week could i eventually add another clown that does sound a bit crowded though
would you suggest two clowns or a clown and a sixline wrasse?


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## SeaHorse (Dec 27, 2010)

Trukgirl talked about her tank at one point I think.... her's is a 65 gallon. I think that is where the confusion is.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*hmmmm*

if you have sufficient filteration to deal with the bio load as in your perameters are in check and you dont jump the gun and add to much to fast then theoreticaly everyone should get along just fine in my opinion.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

Thanks do you think a certain order of fish would be best or does it not matter
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

This tank will need to be running with water, sand, and live rock for at least a good 8 - 12 wks during the cycling phase. You should not put any animals in during cycling. You will go through a few different phases of algae during the cycle, which will help you to track its progress. How fast and how hard it cycles will be dependent on how much live sand and live rock you put into it, and what quality the rock is. Its important to get all of your live rock in before adding the animals to avoid ammonia spikes which happen when live rock is put into a new environment. All live rock will go through some period of die off, this is normal. What the water chemistry and conditions are from where the rock came from and how well cured it is will help to determine how much die off you will deal with, but generally, the die off is enough to make water conditions toxic for the animals.

Once the tank has completed the cycle then you can begin by adding your clean up crew. Expect 2 wk intervals between additions, so 2 wks after the clean up crew goes in the tank should be ready for the first fish. The 2nd fish and all others should spend 2 - 3 wks in quarantine before adding them to the main tank to avoid disease, parasite, illness issues within the main tank. Start with the most peaceful fish, so it is well settled in the tank before adding anything that may stress it out, chase it, or want to fight for territory. Because you can't fit more than a pair of clowns and maybe a small shrimp goby into this tank as far as fish go, this shouldn't be a real difficult process. Clowns go in first, either a pair purchased together or 1 at a time... make sure they are the same species. If you need help choosing an appropriate goby for this tank, please let me know and I can make some suggestions for you. You have time to think about it yet, a few months before you'll be ready for it... so no rush.


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## kieffer5 (May 3, 2011)

Thanks guys youve helped a lot I can't thank you enough I think I'm done with questions for awhile as I have to wait if I think of anything I know where to come.. also if you think there is anything I should know and I may not just chime in
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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