# Help with DIY Lighting



## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Hey guys, i've got some plants in my tank and i'd like get some light in it but i don't have much money to spend. I've been thinking about the clip on lamp method after seeing this post. New, Fancy, Low-Tech Lights!? | TankGeek.com
Any advice? i have a 20G long tank.


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*well*

they do work if you can find the 6500 kelvins..they tend to be spendier than the rest but not too bad..i combine them with a T-8 flourescent tube to get the full spectrum for the aquarium..in your 20 long you could probably get away with the 13 watts..remember to steer clear of the lower kelvins particularly 2700 kelvin as this will look strange and cause some algae issues..oh and bu the way its easy to retrofit the lights into a platic rain gutter costing very little.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

I've seen that but i'm not good with wires/customizations like that.. I'm only 16:/ I'm willing to try if given a little more detail into the process such as where/what size drill the holes and how to cut the gutter in the first place:O haha I really like the gutter idea better though, i just kinda need a little help with it. Or if someone could manufacture one for me and send it to mee that would be waaay better?:O but i know that's asking a little too much. haha


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*hmmm*

well i could give you some instructions if you are up to it...the simplest method would be to get the clamp lamps and just put them on top like the demonstration you have given a link to...the cheapest and arguably the best method is to use the gutter and retrofit it with what you need..i have adapted them even for nanoreef lighting including lunar LEDs but it is a project.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Yeah, im fixed on the rain gutter method.. It looks nicer and is cheaper. Some instructions would be great!


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Heres the link to my tutorial http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/diy-aquarium/my-take-rain-gutter-lighting-47298/ it also has links to two other projects on these forums. If you need help with the wiring let us know ;-)

edit: I just saw your PM, I will explain it here so everyone gets the benifit


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## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

maybe you have an older brother or father that can help you with this project?


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Alright some pointers on making yours, and actually I have one over my 20 gallon long tank. The length I cut my raingutter to was about 30 inches to 30.25 inches, long enough so when you add the end pieces they sit on the plastic rail that goes around the top of the tank.

First the holes in the rain gutter, all these need to be felt out according to the hardware you get, a nice set of drills in all sizes comes in handy here (or a dremel). Cut small then what you think then try the piece of hardware in the hole, increase ever so slightly with larger bits until your piece of hardware fits snugly in the hole. As for where to cut the holes make sure you leave enough space between the holes so you have room to work the wiring, but not to close to where the lights will go.

As for the wiring, its really not that difficult as long as you use double light socket if you want two lights, you just need to make sure you wire everything in series, AND MAKE SURE ITS ALWAYS UNPLUGGED, you go yea yea I know I've heard it a hundred time and its common sense, but hey when I was building my second light fixture I was testing it then turned it off at the switch and completely forgot it was still plugged in. Well some how I managed to touch the right wires and got a nice little shock, quick little shocks wont hurt you as most electricians will testify but never grab wires unless you know its unplugged. ;-)

Below is a simple diagram for the wiring as long as you stick with one socket, double or single the wiring is really just as easy in the attached diagram. I do have a 3 socket one over my 36 gallon tank (1 double and 2 singles) then it gets a little more complicated but even that once you understand a few principals is not that hard, and if you go this route let me know and I will give you that wiring diagram.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Haha I'm gonna be honest with the diagram, but i don't really understand it yet, in terms of how its gonna be in place with the gutter fixture. I probably just need to see a real walkthrough visual. Is there any possiblilty you could like make a video doing all the work? Doesn't needa be fullsize, but maybe like a 5-10inch piece just showing the holes, wiring, and double light socket spacing/etc. Those are the main "trouble points" for me. I'm gonna be using a double socket and i'm possibly thinking about getting a single along with it, but only if its not gonna be a complete confused mess, but i am not good with all these small variations of nuts/bolts/screws/etc.:O


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

IF possible could you link me to the items you bought zof?:O


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*gutter*

if you are still interested you will be needing a plastic gutter and end caps preferably to make it a simpler construction...simply hacksaw the proper length for the inside of your tank lip..dont forget the end caps add a little to the length..


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*tubes*

i like to add some T-8 flourescent lighting to mine as this helps complement the spectrums ..optional for you but great for the salt water tanks that need a lower nano meter bulb.here i have an old ballast from a broken hood.they arent too much at a searings or what not..


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*Cfl*

you will probably just be incorperating the incandecent lighting wich you can go either double ended or singles..i like to just combine them as needed to fill the lighting needs of the tank in question.simple tie the wires accordingly with wire nuts from a hardware store..


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*drill*

now the placement of the lighting can differ from tank to tank and from the brand of sockets you have so this will have to be mesured to your specifics...remember that none of the bulbs can touch the gutter and that the ballast from the T-8 cannot touch the bulbs either if you chose to use one..you can acomplish this through the use of nuts and bolts to help extend the sockets if they are too close to the walls..dont forget to add some slits or holes in the top to allow a little ventilation.


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*lighting*

here is one of my units without its reflector.you can use anything that is reflective and heat resisitant.as you can see its pretty bright and cost very little especialy if you have some parts laying around.it is also nice to have just the right lighting for whatever situation..once you conquer this you can do many other lighting DIYs


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*and*

as mentioned earlier if you havent done wireing before or dont feel comftorable with it get some help..two heads are better than one and some extra input can help modify things for the better.it should be cake if you leave out the T-8.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

do the dual light sockets come with a power cord? another thing i'm confused on is how the dual light socket is gonna connect to the power cord. ): haha i hate this..


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*hmmm*

some come with a cord but most do not...i usualy go to a thrift store and find one there for 50 cents if i happen to not have one..just attach the wires as ZOF has mentioned and be sure none or the wires touch each other and your good..you can in theory get it backwards and it will still fire up if you are just using incandecents..i sometimes will buy something at a garage sale or secondhand store with full intentions of taking it apart and keeping the screws and cords..iif the price is right...i have acuumilated a number of goodies from thrown away devices.alot of people will do a DIY and spend way more than they should not to mention man power and hours.i am known as the ghetto king here..i DIY with whats around me..it works.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

If they don't come with it, do i a part of the power cord and wire it with the wires from the socket?:O Or does the power cord go to the on/off switch, then the socket wires run to the switch as well?


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Look at my diagram, one cable from the power cord will connect to one cable on the light socket, the other wire on the light socket will connect to one wire on the switch, the other wire on the switch will connect to the other free wire on the power cord.

You are creating one big circle with the cables, no cables should be free or have more then 1 other connection to them.

Think of just hooking the light socket up to the power cable, pretty simple right? Each has two cables and each cable is connected to its color match, all we are doing with the switch is adding it in between one of the pairs of cables to stop the flow of electricity when we want.

If you get a third wire in the power cord then just ignore it, its just a ground cable, with this small of a project its unneeded (most the time this third cable is green)

And if your really having a bad time understanding all of this, ask one of your friends that works on cars to help you, they know simple wiring.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

so you strip the power cord extension so that the wires are free, then match them with the switch wire and the socket wire correct?


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

Hey got a quick question sorry not trying to highjack this thread I have been reading along and like the idea of this rain gutter lights. But my question is will 2 T8 fixtures fit in a rain gutter? Sorry again!


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Well here are the items i'm SURE of that i found online. 
Rain gutter
Rain gutter endings
Power extension cord
Heat Shrink
I'm not sure about the other items to get or i counldn't find them online. I could only find "Y" dual sockets online and the switches were all the ones that go into walls for room outlet control. If anyone could link me to the items i should get, it would help alot. I saw alot of 1/4" screws, washers, etc. but I wasn't sure about which one to get:O Mainly, i just need a link to a switch, dual socket, and the screws/washers/etc. 

Zof, in your original post, you say to "grind down" the 1/4" screw so it fits into the socket hole. How exactly did you "grind" it down?

& to Boredomb, it's okay. Haha but yeah, pretty sure if you just put the T8 sockets(?) instead of regular ones. Read the posts on the 2nd page, he mentions a T8 fixture, and just put 2 of those(T8's) instead of 1 T8 and a double socket.


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

I had to pull my double light socket out of a $7 cheap ceiling light fixture, but after looking around the double sockets seem to be available at your local small town hardware stores but not the big box stores unless you did what I did and buy a cheap fixture to use.

I mean grinding by using a grinder you know the ones that go on workbenches and spin 2 wheels. Or you could use a dremmel or some other rotary tool to grind down the screw.

And yes you strip the wires free of the plastic coating just enough to get enough metal wire out to wrap around another wire. And yes match the wires the best you can just make sure you make a big circle with all of them in the circuit, most lights don't matter too much in which wires are connected to which ones unless you turn it on and the light blows out then that one might care, just try to match them as best as you can, your switch might have two black wires which basically means put it between the black wires of the power cord and light fixture.

DIY projects like this are about trying to figure out what works with what to work, most of your smaller hardware light the screws and bolts you will just have to look at them and estimate if they work, if they don't go back to the hardware store and get a new one.



As for the T-8 bulbs, it would be a really tight and interesting fit trying to get two in there, but is possible, to me most of the cost of t-8 fixtures is the ballast so I would just buy a pre-made fixture since most of the cost is something I would buy already.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Well as of now, i only have $27. Not really expecting any income anytime soon:/ The gutter, endings, heat shrink, and extensions alone are about $15. 

As for grinding, i don't think i have any tool like that:O And what part do you grind? The head of the screw or the actual threading on the screw? 

I'm not really sure where i can find a double light socket. I live in San Jose, CA and the only hardware stores i know of are OSH, Lowes, and Home Depot. Do you think other stores like Target, Sears, or something like that will have any?

And any advice on where to get a socket like yours? i actually really like the look of yours. haha


Edit:
Which do you think is better? Or does it not matter?
Westinghouse Brand Socket





And will this switch do well?
Toggle Switch


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

If you only have $27 I would go just with the clamp on light method until you get more money, and you grind the head of the screw down like in the picture.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Well i just talked to my parents, and they're willing to help me pay for it.

And okay, i just looked at the picture. So the head of the screw is inside the light socket? And what kind of screw head is that in the picture you used? And of those 2 light sockets i linked above, does it matter which one i get? 

And i think i finally understand the wiring.


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Both those will work so just go cheap all you have to do is to remove all the unnecessary parts like the mountings, I just chose a long flat head type bolt so I could use a nut on it to tighten it down just make sure its large enough to not go through the hole in the light socket since we are using it to hold the light socket in place hence why we grind the head down to fit into the small slot on the inside of the fixture. And yes your wiring it correct, its just hard to see because of all the black in the picture.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Okay, well i ordered it. I just have to go to home depot and get all the other stuff. I'm still a bit confused about the screws/washers/nuts/etc.:O haha


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*easy*

you will get it ..its really simple once its all in front of you..your ability to improvise will greatly improve.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

One more thing Zof, could you take a picture or find a picture that shows the kind of screw you had? Does the threading run from the head to the end of the screw, or does is it smooth from like halfway through the screw then threaded towards the end?


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*hmmm*

well on the many that i have made and the one in the picture that I posted it isnt much of an issue as long as it tightens up correctly.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Wait, what isn't much of an issue?


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*nuts*

screw threads and the like..if it tightens up and holds the piece in question in place its all good.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

I see.. what length screw should i get? 2 inches? 2.5 inches?

Also, i'm having trouble finding a 6500K cfl.. the closest i've found online is a 5500K. Here


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*6500*

well 5500 will work you really want the 6500.do you have a home depot.they ususaly have them..some other store may have them for a couple more dollars they are usualy packaged in blue in 13 and 27 watts.i love the 27 watts buyt they are usualy too big for most projects.on the bolts do you have acces to a dremel...i use the cutting head and just make it the right size for the project.every project is a little differnt as ZOF said about his double end had to be disassembled fram a home fixture were i try to get double endeds out of tossed out old aquarium lights and they already have most of the work done.once again the bolt size is presumably differnt than mine but fact being if it is held in place your good.you will be starting a tool box soon if you havnt already once you have some odd nuts and bolts.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

badxgillen said:


> well 5500 will work you really want the 6500.do you have a home depot.they ususaly have them..


That specific 5500K bulb was actually online only and i don't wanna buy anymore things online, personally i just don't like the wait. haha But the high K i could find with a cfl instore was 5000K. Would that work just as fine? as a 5500? or even a 6000K+?


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## redchigh (Jan 20, 2010)

Go to wal-mart and look for one that says "Daylight", with a package that kinda looks like this-










You'll probably have to get a lower wattage, but look for a package that looks similiar. The 'Minis' are nice.

For a 20 gallon long, assuming you want low-tech, then 30-40 watts will be enough. I plan on setting up a 20 long with much less very soon. (12W)


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Thanks red! 

One final question. I've decided to go 1 double socket and a single, but i'm not sure what kind of single socket to get. All the single sockets i've seen are vertically installed, while i'm looking for a horizontal socket. Any help with this problem? Btw, i got all my supplies and cut the gutter to fit my tank, but i'm just waiting for paint because i'm not 18 yet): 

Thanks for all the help guys, and especially for keeping up with my simple, but annoying questions. haha


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Heres your wiring with one more socket, as for the single sockets, I just found one with a metal piece on it that I could bend into the right place and hold up with a bolt and nut like the double socket.

You'll probably want to use wire nuts to put all the wires together

Btw you might want to cut venting holes depending on how high a wattage light you go with, I just found one of mine dead, probably to the heat.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Well i've actually decided to make it one double socket for now. I still have the extra 7 1/2-ish feet of gutter to customize if i ever want to add another single. But here are some pics of my progress so far. No paint yet, i'm waiting for the double socket to come in from my order so i can get the holes in before painting.

Thanks for the "vent" idea Zof. I might add some aluminum sheeting inside so the light doesn't escape through the vent holes though.


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Looking good so far, and making progress. You might want to cut down the leads on your power cable to about half the size they are now, the less exposed wire the less chance for a short, you will only need enough to twist the wires around each other.

Keep us updated!


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

How many total watts should i go for/be looking for? I have a 20Gallon long tank. From the posts earlier, i was thinking 30-40 watts, but will that be enough? and whats the highest wattage you guys think i can fit in my light fixture? 

As for progress, it's still at a stand still. Sockets haven't come in yet.


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

I have 2 20 watt CFL from walmart on my 20 gallon, seems to do ok, I would like to put two more sockets in that fixture and add a couple more smaller bulbs but I've never got around to it.


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*light*

depends on the output you are needing...i like four 13 watt bulbs...a much more even distribution of light.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Haha i'll do a 2 double socket fixtures for my next project. I might make a 10G DIY light toooo.


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## redchigh (Jan 20, 2010)

I have 20W over a ten, and it's perfect. I'd do 30-40 over a 20 L


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Well i just got my socket. I'm not really seeing how the screw will stay in the socket because down the middle of it is just one circle with nothing to "hold" the screw from completely falling through. Working on it though.:O


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

You want the head of the bolt to be big enough to not go through, while the threaded part small enough to go through the hole, if thats not possible, get a washer to make up the difference.

DIY projects are all about the 10 trips to the hardware store for parts we wouldn't think we would need


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Is the 1/4" referring to the thickness of the screw where the threading is that you got?


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Yes all screws and bolts are measured by the thickness of their thread area not by the head area.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

How long should the screw be? 2 inches?


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

measure how much screw/bolt you will need by the area you are going to attach the screw to on the fixture to hold it up, you can always add a little more to it and just cut off the excess with a hack saw or dremmel.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Everything's setup and i was supposed to paint today, but it started raining REALLY REALLY badly:O I guess i'll wait tomorrow.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

How exactly did you heat shrink the wires together without soldering?:O If the two wires are gonna run horizontally together, i find it hard to "twist" them around each other, but if i do a "vertical" twist together, i cannot apply the heat shrink:O Confusion yet again. :O haha


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Well it's done. I'm using a 23 Watt and a 13 Watt, as those are the only ones i had on hand:O I'm kinda scared about how close the bulbs are to the actual wall and the power switch though:O


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Very cool, glad you got it all working, as for the heat shrink, its a pain but with enough work and patience you can get it over the wires. As for the closeness to the walls I wouldn't worry too much as long as they are not touching the walls. Mine which has been setup for 6+ months is doing just fine. there is a little bit of warpage and char marks right where the bulbs sit, but the gutter is just fine, if it worries you too much then just go down in wattage of bulbs, as the smaller wattage the smaller the size of the bulb.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Is your bulb touching the wall of the gutter in any way? If not, how far is the spacing? Thanks for all the help btw!


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## badxgillen (Aug 20, 2010)

*heat*

bulbs should never touch anything but the socket.and if there are burn marks then there is a heat issue and you may simply need to use a lower watt..like i was saying 4 13 watt bulbs work out really well on a 20 long.


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## mjbn (Jun 22, 2010)

Welps, after about a week of having the 23 watt up there, i think i've been convinced to move onto 2 double sockets using 4 15 watt 6500K cfls. Only think now is that i soldered the wires together, then used the heat shrink.


Amazing deal at my local WALGREENS btw; 1 GE 15Watt 6500K cfl for $0.62 each! I'm disappointed that home depot, OSH, Lowes, nor Walmart had it, but a Walgreens did. Kinda sad. hahaa


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## zof (Apr 23, 2010)

Yea its weird how chain stores change their stocking preferences based on locations.


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