# 1st Planted Tank!



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Hey TFK Forum,

I am just getting into larger planted tanks and wanted to post some photos of my tank so I could get some feedback, thoughts, advice or just general comments.

I personally feel like I need some more background plants and some more bunch plants but other than that I am just letting stuff grow out a bit.

Thanks in advance for any comments or advice.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Here is a little more info on my tank with more photos~

Equipment:
75 Gallon Tank
Coralife T5 HO Dual Light w/ 10k Bulb and a 6700 Bulb
Eheim 2217 Classic
Whisper Air Pump hooked up to bubble bar
DIY Co2 setup.
Sand Substrate

Plants:
1x Madagascar Lace
Several Java Ferms
A little baby Dwarf Tears (still grown and just recently introduced)
2x Some type of asian anubias. Not sure exactly but I know that is what I was told when I bought it. (it grows very tall and has very large green leaves with red spots)
1 x Large Manzanita Driftwood (36"x14"x18")
1 x small piece of driftwood

I will include a few more photos to show what I have now that I am home.









You can see one of my little Discus behind. (I think this is some kind of sword?)









Not sure what this is but it grows like crazy and is beautiful!









I just bought this as I thought it would make a great background addition to my tank.









Java Fern?









Not sure? A little algae build up 









A dying/dirty lace plant.

If anyone can help identify these it would be great! I hope that helps out! Again thanks for the comments and help.


----------



## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

I love that piece of driftwood! Makes a great focal point. Another pointer that will help your tank look better is to add a black background of some type. It will make the fish appear brighter and "fill in the visual gaps" until your plants grown in. I spray painted one of my tanks (but you have to take down the whole darn thing to do it). I also used black construction paper for another background. Both are much more cost-effective than the background you buy at pet stores and look just as good. 

You might also want to try some floating plants like water sprite. It will help keep down algae and make the tetra, discus, and gourami feel more at home.


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

first pic, looks to me like emersed growth of a bleherae sword, or similar
second tiger lotus is my guess
third and forth im not sure on, ill do some research
fif' picture, is hygrophilia difformis.. which is wisteria.
last, Aponogeton madagascariensis, is the closest I can find.

gorgeous tank btw  that driftwood is a GEM.


----------



## Termato (Feb 21, 2012)

thekoimaiden said:


> I love that piece of driftwood! Makes a great focal point. Another pointer that will help your tank look better is to add a black background of some type. It will make the fish appear brighter and "fill in the visual gaps" until your plants grown in. I spray painted one of my tanks (but you have to take down the whole darn thing to do it). I also used black construction paper for another background. Both are much more cost-effective than the background you buy at pet stores and look just as good.
> 
> You might also want to try some floating plants like water sprite. It will help keep down algae and make the tetra, discus, and gourami feel more at home.


I agree, nice piece of drift wood. You could also get a nice piece of black matte board which will last longer and is padded (cheap too).

It looks like the left side of your tank is going to fill in well when it grows. If you want to put some more plants in I would go in the right side where it looks like almost nothing but that piece of wood is there. It will create a balanced composition


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Thanks so much for all the kind remarks and suggestions. It's great to hear that I am on the right path and that my driftwood purchase wasn't a bad decision! I fell in love the minute I saw that piece. 

I actually plan on adding a lot more plants, this is just the first step of many to what I hope will be an amazing first planted tank. I am still taking time to decide what to buy. I have learned very quickly that not all plants do well in warmer waters (i.e. Discus Tanks). So, with that said if you have any suggestions on plants I would love to hear them. My biggest WANT is a few Anubias nana for the driftwood and some ground cover. I tried baby dwarf tears to begin my ground cover journey and that didn't work so well. Maybe some dwarf hair grass? Or maybe something else?

Also the one plant does seem to look like a Tiger Lotus but mine isn't that red.....I wish it was! Any thoughts?

Again thanks so much for the comments and I would love to hear thoughts on any other Discus friendly plants ideas!


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

tiger lotus isnt red. red tiger lotus is red, and while it IS gorgeous, everyone has red. be a rebel!

I think some climbing stem plants would be pretty sweet in that tank, imho, and as they reach the surface and curl over, it will provide a little shade that your fish, and your anubias, will enjoy very much. With that much light and co2 I would try limnophilia indica or sessiflora, and of COURSE ludwigia and red ludwigia. They look gorgeous under high light when they creep to the surface, one of my favorites. 

and +1 for floating plants. ALL of my tanks currently have Ceratopteris Cornuta (water sprite) floating, except my fry tank. Necessary for making your fish feel at home, and its easy to keep in check with scissors.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

I checked out both the Ludwigia and the Water Sprite and agree that I think both would make great additions to the tank. After a little research though I realized there are a lot of different types of Ludwigia!!!

As for the Red Tiger Lotus if I get one I wont be getting rid of my green. I like it alot, even though I feel like the leaves constantly get ripped up.


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

Well, if you keep on top of it, and trim the leaves off when they grow too tall, you can train the lotus to stay short and bushy under good lights. Maybe train the red to stay short and bushy infront of the green, which has those gorgeous long legs. That would look pimp. 

the big one though will be the water sprite. Its wild to see how quickly fish's behaviors change when they have a roof


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

I am going to look into the Water Sprite this weekend. There are a few good stores around town so I am sure on will have it. 

Here is another question unrelated to tank layout. I am trying to remove my bubble wand from the tank because I feel that it doesn't add to the realistic look of my tank. I would prefer to have no "extras" in my tank as far as cables and equipment goes. I removed the wand the other day and had to put it back in last night because all my little guys seemed to be suffocating. So, here is my question. How can I get rid of an unsightly bubble wand without killing my fish?


----------



## Adamson (Feb 5, 2012)

Mikiel1984 said:


> I am going to look into the Water Sprite this weekend. There are a few good stores around town so I am sure on will have it.
> 
> Here is another question unrelated to tank layout. I am trying to remove my bubble wand from the tank because I feel that it doesn't add to the realistic look of my tank. I would prefer to have no "extras" in my tank as far as cables and equipment goes. I removed the wand the other day and had to put it back in last night because all my little guys seemed to be suffocating. So, here is my question. How can I get rid of an unsightly bubble wand without killing my fish?


Your fish don't need the bubbles, the plants provide enough oxygen. The plants will actually grow better without the air-pump/bubble bar.


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

your co2 isnt cranked up is it? If it is not (and it shouldnt be with so few plants) it should be no big deal to take the bubbles out. The bubbler is actually going to off gas your injected co2, so the two dont mix, unless youre using a bubbler FOR your co2, but you didnt include details.

Let us know if their distress gets any worse. Are you dosing with chemicals or meds at all? API algaefix causes my fish to suffer in my 110g, I need to add an airstone when I use it.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Thanks for the advice. I am actually using API algaefix right now. I am assuming thats the problem. After about 10 minutes with the bubble bar back in the tank they started settling back in. I unfortunately did have the loss of one of my SAE's  I think he had other problems already though because we was getting extremely fat.

Once I stop dosing the algaefix then I will try to take the bar out again to see what happens. How long after I stop the algaefix should I wait to remove the bar?


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

48 hours should do it, but I would time the algaefix with a water change, so when the dosing is done, the following day a water change should get rid of some of it. 

My advice, is to try to figure out whats causing the algae and throw that bottle of algaefix in the trash. I have used it for unruly BBA, but I hate doing it. It has always made the fish clam up.


----------



## bigfish93 (Jul 7, 2009)

As a few people have mentioned earlier, I recommend ditching the bubble wand(s). The don't work out too well in planted tanks because the bubbles off gas the CO2 that the plants use to photosynthesize and make oxygen. I also recommend putting your spray bar on one end of the tank and your intake on the opposite end. This will help circulate the water better and provide a more natural current for the fish.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

How do you guys feel about circulation pumps?


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

I ordered a Hydor Koralia Evolution 750. Do you think that would allow proper water circulation?


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Weekend Update.

I rearranged the plants in the tank, added some Giant Hygro and some Jungle Val, removed the bubble bar for now and added a black background. Still think we are on the right track!

Here is a photo of the progress.










Let me know your thoughts!


----------



## Adamson (Feb 5, 2012)

Mikiel1984 said:


> Weekend Update.
> 
> I rearranged the plants in the tank, added some Giant Hygro and some Jungle Val, removed the bubble bar for now and added a black background. Still think we are on the right track!
> 
> ...


Looks good! I am jealous of that wood you have in there, where did you get it? Only place I can find it is ebay, and I don't want to pay $25 for shipping!


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Adamson said:


> Looks good! I am jealous of that wood you have in there, where did you get it? Only place I can find it is ebay, and I don't want to pay $25 for shipping!


Thanks! I bought it online from a place called Manzanita Driftwood . The vendor seemed professional and got the piece to me in less than a week. It was the first and only time I have dealt with him but I know the folks over at the simply discus forum seem to like him. 

Shipping was still $15 dollars but IMO he has the best pieces of driftwood I have seen on the market. He always has a lot in stock even though I have seem some pieces move very fast.

The one thing I can say though is if you are buying a bigger piece of driftwood from him make sure you have some place to waterlog the thing before putting it in your tank. That piece floated in my tank for over 2 weeks!

Glad you like the tank and thanks for the comments!


----------



## beetlebz (Aug 2, 2007)

Looking good! Just be careful where you put that pump. The discus will enjoy little or no current in the tank


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Yeah I am trying to decide where to put it. I think it might be ok if I put it up in the top right corner. They rarely hang over there.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I just took note of the intended (?) fish for the 75g, there are some issues here, temperature wise. The neon tetra cannot last at the warm temp the discus require. I'm not sure if those corys are all in the 75 too, but if they are, some of them will burn out too. The black neons will be at the upper limit of their range, or actually just above that, and this is something that should be avoided. The dwarf gourami I would not put in with discus.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

Byron said:


> I just took note of the intended (?) fish for the 75g, there are some issues here, temperature wise. The neon tetra cannot last at the warm temp the discus require. I'm not sure if those corys are all in the 75 too, but if they are, some of them will burn out too. The black neons will be at the upper limit of their range, or actually just above that, and this is something that should be avoided. The dwarf gourami I would not put in with discus.


Thanks for the advice Byron. I have been contemplating whether the Dwarf Gourami should stay or go as he is a little aggressive towards them but they seem to hold their own against him. My concern with trying to trade him in at a LFS is that he has a few holes in his fins. I am afraid they wont take him. It isn't disease as he has been like that since I bought him over 6 months ago.


----------



## ReefTrooper (Jan 29, 2012)

I agree with Byron that neon's do better in colder water than discus like but i keep mine at a temp of 30 degrees along with my discus and there have been no problems at all so it is possible but i too plan on lowering my temp to 28-29 degrees to make my neon's feel more comfortable. all i wanted to say here is that it is possible to keep black neons at the temp discus like


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Timothy 1998 cremer said:


> I agree with Byron that neon's do better in colder water than discus like but i keep mine at a temp of 30 degrees along with my discus and there have been no problems at all so it is possible but i too plan on lowering my temp to 28-29 degrees to make my neon's feel more comfortable. all i wanted to say here is that it is possible to keep black neons at the temp discus like


Possible is not the same as good for the fish. In your other thread on the 33g tank with discus, I have outlined the problems that fish have when we try to force them into what is for them not natural, and this is another example. A "community" aquarium must be thought out in advance and all the fish selected must be compatible in every sense of the word, and this involves water parameters (hardness, pH and temperature), environment (the physical space in size and how it is aquascaped), filter flow, light, and last individual behaviours and traits of the species. Nature has programmed these fish, we cannot change them.

The problem with keeping fish at the high end of their temperature range is that is makes them work harder, and that uses more energy which tends to make them less "strong." Think of it in terms of you having to continually walk uphill; it just takes more energy than walking on level ground. And if this were to continue without break it would wear you down much faster. This is what the fish are going through. As another example, you know how you feel on a very hot day in the summer; you lack "energy," because of the increased heat. Same thing here. It is just wearing down the fish faster.

Byron.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

also just added some Crypt Parva to the bottom right. Hopefully it will carpet out nicely.


----------



## johnawares (Feb 23, 2012)

Hi Mikie.., Your tank is just awesome. i love it, here is mine.


----------



## Mikiel1984 (Oct 17, 2011)

johnawares said:


> Hi Mikie.., Your tank is just awesome. i love it, here is mine.


Hey John! Thanks for the comments! You have a really great tank as well. What are you using as a ground cover? You have really good growth!


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Both of those tanks are nice, good work to you both.:nicefish:

And johnawares, welcome to Troipcal Fish Keeping forum. Glad to have you joining us.:-D

Byron.


----------



## ReefTrooper (Jan 29, 2012)

Thanks for helping me understand Byron  i really needed that  so is it possible to keep neons and discus together at 29 degrees?


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Timothy 1998 cremer said:


> Thanks for helping me understand Byron  i really needed that  so is it possible to keep neons and discus together at 29 degrees?


No. 29C is 84F, way too high a temperature for neons that really shouldnever be above 25C/77F max. I would also suggest 82F as better for discus [Jack Wattley says this, and he knows more about discus that any of us].

With discus, a better fish is the cardinal tetra. It is a bit larger so less likely to be eaten (discus may eat small fish), but it does fine in warmer discus-type temperatures. And the water parameters match too.


----------

