# are fox face good for cycling? respond!!!!!!!!!



## bad kid (Jul 15, 2009)

are fox face lo rabbit fish good for cycling?


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

No, a Fox Face would not survive a cycle.

Given this question, we need to have a very long conversation. The topic of cycling is not really relevant for a properly set up marine aquarium, which should use a Protein skimmer, live rock, and live sand as the only methods of filtration. In these systems, the live rock will "cycle" the tank in a few short days, resulting in almost no cycling of ammonia or nitrite. The real waiting period is for the system to "mature", which is identified by the growth of coraline algae and populations of copepods and amphipods, as well as the passing of a diatom bloom.

Your question tells us a lot of information, and leads me to believe that you have been given very bad advice at some point in the beginnings of your attempt at the marine hobby.

Can you give us details of your setup, equipment, and plans? Pictures would be great.


----------



## berkdug (Aug 25, 2009)

what should you do if a brittle starfish came in as a live rock hitch-hiker in a new tank? it was just discovered after a week of the cycling process. a few snails also appeared on the rock and around the sand.


----------



## racingtiger03 (Aug 9, 2009)

I don't know about a starfish.. Typically they dont take too well to sudden/constant changes. I didn't add my sand star until after the diatom bloom. but maybe someone with more knowledge on the matter can chime in for you.


----------



## zachhay11 (Dec 27, 2008)

hate to ask a stupid question but whats a diatom bloom? DX


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

As to the starfish.... have you been testing ammonia and nitrite? What are the results?

A diatom bloom happens in nearly every new aquarium within the first 4 to 8 weeks. A thin layer of brown algae covers the sand and live rock. As the system matures, the diatom recedes, and is followed by the growth of coraline algae, assuming the correct environment has been created.


----------



## abfisher (Mar 26, 2008)

Good info. Thanks


----------



## zachhay11 (Dec 27, 2008)

ah hah! so thats what that stuff is its been all over my sand and rock! so in a few months this should turn to coraline algea?


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

zachhay11 said:


> ah hah! so thats what that stuff is its been all over my sand and rock! so in a few months this should turn to coraline algea?


The diatom will die off and be replaced by coraline algae growth, provided you are monitoring your alkalinity and calcium levels.


----------



## zachhay11 (Dec 27, 2008)

sweet glad things are going right i thought something was wrong. anyway like i said i need more test equipment, are the strip versions as good as the regular stuff? also do i need to test calcium its just gonna be hardy fish right now. inverts after the tank matures and no corals


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

You do not want to use test strips. They are junk. Buy the drops. 

As for calcium, I personally test for calcium in all my marine systems. As the major buffering ion in seawater, calcium is such an important measure of the overall stability of a system that I can not imagine any argument for not testing it. By testing both alkalinity and calcium at the same time, you get an amazing picture of future problems that could occur and are able to make adjustments long before these problems arise.

In addition to the test kits, you will need a buffer and a calcium supplement. I use Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH and Kent Marine Liquid Calcium (calcium chloride). I keep alkalinity between 8 and 12 DKH and calcium between 420 and 460ppm. 

Generally, you will see alkalinity and calcium "move" together, and adding both a buffer and calcium supplement will be routine. You will also develop a routine for a dosing of calcium to keep calcium above 400ppm, as it tends to drift down quickly, based on the effectiveness of your skimmer at removing the organic acids produced by your livestock. I add a calcium supplement almost daily and a buffer weekly or twice weekly, based on the test results I am seeing. I do not test daily, but a daily dose is most effective at creating the stability I want. I test Wednesdays and Sundays to confirm the dosing routine I am using is effective.

For the record, you will rarely see calcium remain high and alkalinity drop under the target range, both at the same time. When this occurs, you need a water change or small series of water changes, because the smaller buffering ions have been depleted. This should be a big warning sign to take quick action. As a general rule, personally, I rarely do water changes or any significant size unless this situation occurs.


----------

