# Tank won't Cycle



## Fishoutofwater (Feb 5, 2012)

I got my 125g setup finally. I wanted to cycle it with pure ammonia. I have done it before to 2 other tanks in my house successfully. It has now officially been 3 weeks since the first dosing of ammonia and it hasn't dropped at all. I brought the ammonia to 4ppm and have been testing it about every other day and nothing. I used the same pure ammonia that I used in my other tanks with the same procedure.

At this point what are my options? Is it possible that a tank this size just takes a LOT longer or did something go wrong? I hope I don't need to drain the tank and refill.


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## thatfreakishbear (Dec 16, 2014)

Try some Tetra Safe Start. It will help seed your tank. You can also take media from your other tanks and put it in the filter to help seed it.


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

definitely getting some media from another tank will help rather it be a filter, some gravel or decor..but with a tank that large it may take a little longer then smaller tanks.as long as you are dosing the correct amount of ammonia for that size as over dosing could cause problems and under dosing could cause it to either take longer or not cycle properly/for smaller bioload..but even in my smaller tanks its taken longer than i anticipated.

what is the temp set at?
what kind of filtration?
how much ammonia are you adding and when?
any bubble makers?air stones and air pump..if so what size of pump?

that would be a good start though im definitely know expert..and only cycled around 4 tanks 40 gallons and under i have done research and have a general idea on the cycling process and can help find more info  i just think because its such a large tank it will take longer than the smaller tanks.i believe raising the temp will also speed up the process as well if i remember correctly..and having adequate aeration like air pump and air stones will also speed it up as oxygen is needed for the beneficial bacteria.


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## Fishoutofwater (Feb 5, 2012)

The temp is at 82 degrees and there is a big air stone in it as well. the filter is a fluval fx5. I just did the 1 does at the beginning to 4ppm and haven't added any ammonia since because i don't want to overdose it...should I be doing that?


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Fishoutofwater said:


> The temp is at 82 degrees and there is a big air stone in it as well. the filter is a fluval fx5. I just did the 1 does at the beginning to 4ppm and haven't added any ammonia since because i don't want to overdose it...should I be doing that?


that could be why its not cycling..i thin you have to dose it every few days or so..let me find out..another way of doing it is getting a coupe shrimp..putting the in womens stockings and let them hang on the side of the tank.usually stores dont mind giving a couple shrimp..ill go check on using ammonia with dosing and sizes of tanks and ill come back with any info 

edit:i should have asked what the current readings are on the ammonia and nitrite..but as i was searching i just remembered that you add ammonia again once it starts to drop below like 4ppm but keeping it around 5 or 6ppm..if ammonia is low or none rite now then most likely it needs more ammonia and should check once or twice a day until readings change and nitrates come in..but let me know how much ammonia is currently in the tank to determine more whats going on.the temp is good and everything else is good.i just think theres not enough ammonia being adding to keep the cycling going especially for such a large tank.it will take more.


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## Fishoutofwater (Feb 5, 2012)

Well that's the problem. It's not dipping below the 4ppm that I put in originally...i mean at all.


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Fishoutofwater said:


> Well that's the problem. It's not dipping below the 4ppm that I put in originally...i mean at all.


its just not having enough time then.the beneficial bacteria hasnt started its job yet and thats why it doesnt seem like anything is changing.as ,ong as you have ammonia in there the cycle is going and will progress..its now a waiting game..with it being such a large tank i think it will take longer than the much smaller tanks..i have always seeded mine as well using media from an established tank and using a fish or two to help it.closely monitoring the water parameters..im sure its just not enough time yet for your tank to establish a cycle  definitely keep track of it and let us know.


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## Fishoutofwater (Feb 5, 2012)

Should I have dosed with Prime? I did not do that. Would it hurt to do it now?


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Fishoutofwater said:


> Should I have dosed with Prime? I did not do that. Would it hurt to do it now?


it wouldnt hurt it..its water conditioner and if you have high chlorine it would be a good idea but its not going to really make a difference as its mainly for when you have fish in the water and do water changes..if you havent done water changes lately i wouldnt worry about adding any.chlorine should be cleared in a day if no chemicals added to take it out.

as someone posted above, maybe adding some bacterial starter might help..but i never really believed in that as there isnt anything to keep the bacteria a live..keeping the ammonia around 4-6ppm and having aeration as well as a filter and temp set high is the best bet..biggest thing that will really help is getting media from another tank.if you have any up and running tanks..i would buy like womens stockings from a dollar store or walmart, add some gravel from another tank into that and hang it on the side or let it sit at the bottom.

the more you add the better...or if you have two or more running filters in another tank, tank a filter from it and add it.thats instant i do that with mine.i have extra media always in my filters and i just take it out and add to a new tank.try a pet store.they may give you or cheaply sell a few of their bio balls to help.if you lived in my area i would give you some of mine.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Good advice form Nate, especially the part about.

-- High filter flow
-- Aeration
--High temperature >84*
-- Darkness helps

It was not clear to me if you "seeded" your tank with live bacteria. If not, 3-weeks is not so long to expect an ammonia drop or a nitrite spike, especially in a large tank.

For a fishless cycle a conditioner which dechlorinates is all you want. Prime locks up ammonia, but then releases it, so the bacteria get to oxidize it. So that's OK.

Do not dose ammonia above 4.0ppm. 

Actually, you're doing it right and things are about as should be expected. Tetra Safestart is used successfully by many keepers (I keep track) around here. If waiting is really getting to you, I agree with the Bear, give it a try. It won't hurt anything.


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

oh i forgot to mention no water changes until a nitrate spike and rite before adding fish..i agree with Hallyx and for some reason in the back of my mind i wanted to say dont let the ammonia go above 4ppm but i read elsewhere to keep between 4-6 yet i still think letting it go above 4ppm will cause some issues, either killing off bacteria or something.i dont remember what it was....good call Hallyx i forgot Prime locks in ammonia..i usually use stress coat and used my prime on occasion.i just got my two 10 gallons from storage to re set up betta tanks and will cycle them..so im glad you jumped in and added a few things


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Depending on the bacteria, ammonia over 5.0ppm can stall the cycle (although I've cycled quickly at >7.0ppm). Same for nitrite. 

Many keepers feel livestock that produce >4.0ppm/day ammonia is overstocking. So an ammonia-handling capacity >4.0ppm/day is redundant. Bacteria grow to oxidize _just_ the amount of ammonia produced by the livestock. No more; no less.

Stresscoat does nothing to detoxify ammonia. Prime, AmmoLock, Amquel+ are the big three for ammonia. Although there are others.


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> Depending on the bacteria, ammonia over 5.0ppm can stall the cycle (although I've cycled quickly at >7.0ppm). Same for nitrite.
> 
> Many keepers feel livestock that produce >4.0ppm/day ammonia is overstocking. So an ammonia-handling capacity >4.0ppm/day is redundant. Bacteria grow to oxidize _just_ the amount of ammonia produced by the livestock. No more; no less.
> 
> Stresscoat does nothing to detoxify ammonia. Prime, AmmoLock, Amquel+ are the big three for ammonia. Although there are others.


that makes a lot more sense than what i was thinking.i knew there was logic behind it but couldnt remember exactly  i also havent cycled in over a year so im a little rusty...and i knew there was something i wanted to buy today when i got off work.. Prime..i got enough for one more water change.i need a job at a pet store.then i wont forget


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## Juggernaut122 (Jul 6, 2013)

*help please. Suddenly tank out of cycle and won't cycle*

Hi, (sorry this was supposed to be a separate post, not sure how it got posted here)

I have had my 10 gallon tank for 1.5 years.

I have 2 small guppies and 2 danios (all of which seem to be doing fine so far, fortunately)

For 1.5 years the tank has been cycled fine.

Suddenly I see the ammonia go up to 0.5 and then 1.
I checked the pH and it was 6 (probably less, but that is the lowest marker). I am guessing that the low pH killed the bacteria.

I brought the pH up to 6.8-7, and now the ammonia level is up to 8.

I have done 50% water changes every 2-3 days for the past 3-4 weeks and the ammonia level is only down to 4.

I have added 2 bottles of safe-start over these weeks but it does not seem to be helping. 
I always use water that is treated to lock out the chlorine when doing the water changes.

My settings:
pH 6.8
Ammonia 4 (8 if I don't do daily water changes)
Nitrite 0
Temp 76
1 air stone

I am a bit at a loss, it has been very long without any success.

I would appreciate any help.

Thank you!
Juggernaut


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Juggernaut122 said:


> Hi, (sorry this was supposed to be a separate post, not sure how it got posted here)
> 
> I have had my 10 gallon tank for 1.5 years.
> 
> ...


hmm that doesnt sound rite..what are you using to test the water?


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## Juggernaut122 (Jul 6, 2013)

prodrumernate said:


> hmm that doesnt sound rite..what are you using to test the water?


Hi,

I am using the API master test kit.

I have also bought in a sample to the pet store to make sure that my reagents have not gone bad & they match up.

I also have a second newer bottle of the reagents to test the ammonia and I opened them up to confirm, and I get the same result.

I did find that for some reason there is now ammonia in the tap water (about 0.5), but regardless, if the tank was cycled the bacteria should eat that too, to bring the level down to zero.

Thanks,
Juggernaut


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Juggernaut122 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am using the API master test kit.
> 
> ...


the next thing i was going to ask is for you to check your water straight from the tap.it might be best now to buy purified water from water vending machines..i would also call the water company and find out if this is a temporary thing with the water or what and let them know the situation.

but you are correct.if it is cycled that amount of ammonia from the water would go away fairly quickly and it wouldnt cause much of a spike like you have.i would stop adding any ammonia for a while and even avoid adding water unless its getting low.

?API master test kits are the way to go.i wouldnt use the strips as they arent always accurate but you seem to know that already.continue to monitor and let me know any changes.


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

prodrumernate said:


> that makes a lot more sense than what i was thinking.i knew there was logic behind it but couldnt remember exactly  i also havent cycled in over a year so im a little rusty...and i knew there was something i wanted to buy today when i got off work.. Prime..i got enough for one more water change.i need a job at a pet store.then i wont forget


 Be careful with prime. It does lock up ammonia but with normal (api type) test kits you still test positive for ammonia. Because the test cannot tell the difference between locked and free ammonia. The danger is that prime also locks up oxygen so you add prime, test ammonia add more prime, etc, etc, etc. And the fish can actually suffocate.

Seachem has a multitest ammonia kit that tests for both type of ammonia. I would use that kit and only add prime for the free ammonia amount. I believe their in tank ammonia dots also only reacto to free ammonia.

my .02


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## Juggernaut122 (Jul 6, 2013)

Juggernaut122 said:


> Hi, (sorry this was supposed to be a separate post, not sure how it got posted here)
> 
> I have had my 10 gallon tank for 1.5 years.
> 
> ...


Almost 2 weeks later and still the same result.
Only difference is that now there seem to be algae growing on the plastic plants - not sure if that is a good or bad sign.

1 of my tiny guppies looks like he won't be surviving this.... :-(

I really am at a loss here...


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

Juggernaut122 said:


> Almost 2 weeks later and still the same result.
> Only difference is that now there seem to be algae growing on the plastic plants - not sure if that is a good or bad sign.
> 
> 1 of my tiny guppies looks like he won't be surviving this.... :-(
> ...


really?im beginning to wonder if it has something to do with your tap.are you still using tap water?id hate to have you start again especially its been what nearly two months already.you really need some seeded material to see if that will help jump start the beneficial bacteria.even my 10 gallon i set up for my betta i put my fish in rite away and let the ammonia build up just enough and added rocks and artificial plants from my large tank thats been running for about a year and a half.

you can still save the guppy by putting them in a hospital tank like a 1 gallon tank with an air stone and clean the water every other day.keeping it in a low busy area where not any people walk and such if it is sick.but fresh water is the best cure for any fish.i would get purified water for it.

im baffled by your tank not cycling.can you uploading any pictures and or videos of the full setup so i can see how things are including the temp as well as the filter displacement and everything?

wish i was able to give you some of my media thats already got the BB on it..but if i was to mail it.it would be dead by the time it got to you especially hitting the cold weather.

also inform me of all the readings...nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, temp and such...lets see what exactly we have here.im now determined to get this tank cycled


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

I would put some fast growing live plants in there like anacharis.

my .02


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

beaslbob said:


> I would put some fast growing live plants in there like anacharis.
> 
> my .02


agreed.that will help with the cycle.something i forgot to mention in my long post i last added..thank you for adding it  plants helped me with my cycle no doubt.


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## NightwishFae (Jan 13, 2015)

That's actually where I stand with my tank right now. The LFS where I had the parameters tested basically said that it looks strange that the nitrites/nitrates are appropriate for a well-cycled tank, especially in regards to my water change cycle while ammonia stays high, and suggested planting the tank. I'm adding them slowly as the fish are doing okay for now, and i don't want to spike the pH too quickly. (Water is relatively soft.) It seems to be helping, but I'm thinking my pH test kit is a dud, so I'm afraid to add plants too quickly. Ammonia is finally receding, however, so that's a plus!


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## prodrumernate (Jun 22, 2012)

NightwishFae said:


> That's actually where I stand with my tank right now. The LFS where I had the parameters tested basically said that it looks strange that the nitrites/nitrates are appropriate for a well-cycled tank, especially in regards to my water change cycle while ammonia stays high, and suggested planting the tank. I'm adding them slowly as the fish are doing okay for now, and i don't want to spike the pH too quickly. (Water is relatively soft.) It seems to be helping, but I'm thinking my pH test kit is a dud, so I'm afraid to add plants too quickly. Ammonia is finally receding, however, so that's a plus!


do you have driftwood in your tank?and are you using tap water or filtered water?driftwood and filtered water will lower the Ph.i think adding a few seashells helps bring the Ph back up...anyone correct me if im wrong.i know theres a few things you can add to bring it back up or get the chemicals from a store that will do it.though im not much of a chemical person if it can be avoided..definitely dont want a sudden change in Ph though..fish wouldnt be too happy about that.i will say my discus and other fish didnt seem to be bothered.actually they are happier after i rescued them..

did anyone at your LFS say anything about how to fix it besides using chemicals?you could ask your LFS if you can either have or cheaply buy some already cycled media from their tanks.that will definitely help get the ball rolling


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Would anyone who so blithely suggest plants please be so kind as to recommend lighting, fertilizers, mineral additives and the other maintenance procedures and criteria?

Get some Tetra Safestart and try that first.

Don't worry about Prime using up the O2. It doesn't use up that much. And, besides, that's what your bubbler or filter splash is for.


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> Would anyone who so blithely suggest plants please be so kind as to recommend lighting, fertilizers, mineral additives and the other maintenance procedures and criteria?
> 
> Get some Tetra Safestart and try that first.
> 
> Don't worry about Prime using up the O2. It doesn't use up that much. And, besides, that's what your bubbler or filter splash is for.


 
If you get lights up to 1-2 watts per gallon you should be fine with plants. But even lower lighting just so you can see the fish will still allow the plants to consume co2 and ammonia. 6500K lights look the best IMHO.

As far as anything else the feeding the fish will provide the nutrients for the plants. Sure long run you may want to add some iron, but that is years later.

Most of the lights, fertz, co2 for plants is to have awesome show tanks the win competitions. But to just provide an nice looking tank and keep the fish healthy does not require all that.

See link in my signature.


my .02


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## NightwishFae (Jan 13, 2015)

prodrumernate said:


> did anyone at your LFS say anything about how to fix it besides using chemicals?you could ask your LFS if you can either have or cheaply buy some already cycled media from their tanks.that will definitely help get the ball rolling


I don't have any driftwood, shells, or anything else to affect the water parameters yet. I am using tap water from the same water supply as the preferred LFS, which they use with great success. 

The pH isn't a problem needing fixing right now, the transition to planting is the suggestion they made to fix the ammonia levels. My problem with the pH is that all the other tests they made (which I have access to at home) matched my results, but the pH test they performed showed a neutral pH of 7, whereas mine reads well above 7.6. I'm going to replace the test soln. before I introduce any more than the first plant, just so there are no surprises while I'm blind to the alkalinity/acidity of the system.


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## Embouck7 (Jan 11, 2015)

Wait what? Why would you wait on the plants, from my experience they go in as soon as possable.... Not sure what your waiting for??? I always plant on the first fill (dirt, sand, and gravel all the same) never killed a plant doing this method...... I would like to also say I'm buying the advanced plants, so I am pretty sure you can keep the begginer plants alive.

Look at my dwarf chichlid tank in the profile, just planted 2 weeks ago so the plants are just getting established...... 

It's not as hard to grow plants as you might think, they don't need perfect conditions. Seems like you have this down for the most part. Time to start makeing your masterpiece


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## Juggernaut122 (Jul 6, 2013)

prodrumernate said:


> really?im beginning to wonder if it has something to do with your tap.are you still using tap water?id hate to have you start again especially its been what nearly two months already.you really need some seeded material to see if that will help jump start the beneficial bacteria.even my 10 gallon i set up for my betta i put my fish in rite away and let the ammonia build up just enough and added rocks and artificial plants from my large tank thats been running for about a year and a half.
> 
> you can still save the guppy by putting them in a hospital tank like a 1 gallon tank with an air stone and clean the water every other day.keeping it in a low busy area where not any people walk and such if it is sick.but fresh water is the best cure for any fish.i would get purified water for it.
> 
> ...


Hi,

Unfortunately I don't have easy access to too much purified water.

The little guppy (lyre tail) didn't make it. The other larger guppy and 2 danio glofish are doing ok so far.

I did 50% water changes for 4 days in a row and got the ammonia down to 0.5.
So current settings:
Temp 76 degrees
pH 7.4
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I am attaching a picture of my tank. (Note I have a charcol filter in the tank to help it get bacteria before I take out the old one - at least that is what I have always done over the last 1.5 years when there were bacteria in the tank). The plants are all fake.

Keep in mind this is after adding 3 bottles of safestart over almost 2 months now.

I was wondering if my town might be hyperchlorinating the water and overwhemling my conditioner. I used a pool chlorine tester and it came back as zero from the tank (not sure it translates over to a tank but I would imagine so).

Feel like I am getting close to the end of what I can do for these little guys. :-(


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## Embouck7 (Jan 11, 2015)

ok no more safestart, 3 bottles is alot. I think your ammonia might be caused by the stressed fish. so if the level of ammonia builds up knock it back down with a WC. I would just go down to prime or w/e your using to make your city water safe. 
I think you should focus on low stress, rather than ammonia. 
Your tank can be too clean!


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## NightwishFae (Jan 13, 2015)

Embouck7 said:


> ok no more safestart, 3 bottles is alot. I think your ammonia might be caused by the stressed fish. so if the level of ammonia builds up knock it back down with a WC. I would just go down to prime or w/e your using to make your city water safe.
> I think you should focus on low stress, rather than ammonia.
> Your tank can be too clean!


EXACTLY what I'm working on now, as two of the people with more experience than myself that I talked to said the same thing (about being possibly too clean) . I went through 2 bottles of TSS with no effect. It is so hard not to over think it, but I'm running off of the advice of 10% WC every other (or third) day and the gradual addition of the plants. And I'm noticing that the ammonia is still bad, but they're not getting red around the gills and it's a little slower to rise every time I knock it back down. 

It goes against everything in me to be LESS active in solving the problem, but too much attempting can equal too much stress, and there goes the ammonia spiking again! :-? This has to be the most repeated advice I've heard with this situation. (But i want to see the results NOW!!! ;-) )


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

I know wit hard but sometime the best thing you can do is nothing.

That is most especially true when live plants are in use. Doing nothing in that case means letting the plants establish an balanced stable eco system which is also very forgiving of operator inputs (errors?).

but it is hard to do nothing.


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

I know there's a recent perspective that a tank can be too clean. I'm leaning in that direction, myself. But I draw the line at ammonia. _NO_ ammonia is the right amount -- 0.0ppm. Same for nitrite. You want to let your dissolved waste (DOC) build-up, fine. You want to let nitrate increase >40ppm, no harm. Algae, great. But ammonia is the big stressor -- more than water changes, more than pH drift, more than high TDS. I accept NO ammonia in my tanks.

Safestart has cycled many tanks of members with whom I correspond. The occasional time it does not work leads me to conclude one of two things. 

Because it's live bacteria, it can be killed by overheating >95*, or freezing during shipping. Petstores do not treat these living organisms any different than a Sponge Bob ornament, so sometimes you can get a bad batch.

The bacteria have a long but finite shelf-life. Tetra says a year. From the feedback I get, six months is still good. 

_Always_ use Prime during a fish-in cycle <period>


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> I know there's a recent perspective that a tank can be too clean. I'm leaning in that direction, myself. But I draw the line at ammonia. _NO_ ammonia is the right amount -- 0.0ppm. Same for nitrite. You want to let your dissolved waste (DOC) build-up, fine. You want to let nitrate increase >40ppm, no harm. Algae, great. But ammonia is the big stressor -- more than water changes, more than pH drift, more than high TDS. I accept NO ammonia in my tanks.
> 
> Safestart has cycled many tanks of members with whom I correspond. The occasional time it does not work leads me to conclude one of two things.
> 
> ...


To me is what is important is how ammonia is controlled in a brand new aquarium with or with out bacteria. With live plants, the plants consume the ammonia that isn't being treated by the aerobic bacteria. And in the process also consume co2 and add oxygen. Then over time the aerobic bacteria builds up and the plants switch to using nitrates for nitrogen.

Plus the same thing happens should something go bump in the night. The plants consume the increased ammonia preventing the dangerous spikes and preventing crashes. 

So to me the best thing to do is add fast growing plants like anacharis when the tank is first setup and then keep the bioload low be not adding fish the first week, only a single fish the second week with no feeding. Then add more fish the third week and start very very light feeding. 

So during the initial cycle there is low or no ammonia and nitrite spikes.

By contrast ammonia locks (like prime) do lock up the ammonia but the ammonia test kits still test positive for ammonia even though the ammonia is locked. So you test add more prime, still test ammonia add more prime. etc etc etc. Meanwhile prime and other ammonia locks also reduce oxygen in the water and the fish can suffocate showing the same symptoms as ammonia poisoning. 

But all that is just my .02


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Nice macro, Bob. If you're one of the fortunate, diligent, talented, patient tankers who can raise plants -- provide the special lighting, substrate, ferts, technique, knowledge and other requirements, then Gor'blessye you have my admiration and envy. All my plants die. I have a lot of Anubias and a few plastic plants. Those can't be killed.

Contrary to you, I couldn't care less how ammonia is controlled, as long as it's controlled -- temporarily locked or totally disintegrated, consumed or oxidized -- chemically, naturally by bacteria or by plants.

I can't bring myself to believe that modern fishkeepers who use ammonia lockers are too stupid to understand that API tests read TAN, locked or unlocked. Nobody is going to continue dosing Prime because they continue to get a positive reading. If your aeration is so meager that a little overdosing with Prime is dangerously reducing your dissolved oxygen then, NBD, you need another airstone.


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

Hallyx said:


> Nice macro, Bob. If you're one of the fortunate, diligent, talented, patient tankers who can raise plants -- provide the special lighting, substrate, ferts, technique, knowledge and other requirements, then Gor'blessye you have my admiration and envy. All my plants die. I have a lot of Anubias and a few plastic plants. Those can't be killed.
> ...


FWIW I have had tanks run for 9 years with descendants of the original cycle fish (30 in a 10g) with a sand substrate, just a simple 1 tube fluorescent fixture, no water changes, no mechanical filters or air pumps, no added chemicals of any kind using untreated tap water in 1/2 dozens cities in the US as I moved around the county in the Air Force.

I do this method because I'm unfortunate with fish, didn't have the time to constantly fuss with the tanks, impatient, and extremely untalented in anything.

But thanks anyway.

my .02


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## Juggernaut122 (Jul 6, 2013)

Juggernaut122 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Unfortunately I don't have easy access to too much purified water.
> 
> ...


Hi guys,

It has been 2 weeks since my last post. (and about 2 months since my tank went out of cycle)

I even borrowed a used filter fresh from my friend's tank, and still no signs of any cycling of the tank.

pH 7.2-7.6 (black algae grow on the fake plants when pH > 6.8'ish)
Ammonia went up to 4
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

Do I have any more options?
Do those little moss balls help?
When I originally started my tank, I did not have the air stone - can that cause a problem with setting up the cycle?

Thank you,
Juggernaut


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## Embouck7 (Jan 11, 2015)

I think this is the fourm we were talking about seeding good bacteria, liquid was discussed but I said there were other options that ship better. Azoo makes a product called "max bio balls"(haha anyway).... Heres a lin kif you want to give em a try 
Amazon.com : AZOO Max Bio Ball for Shrimps : Dry Pet Food : Pet Supplies


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## Juggernaut122 (Jul 6, 2013)

*Finally cycling!*



Juggernaut122 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> It has been 2 weeks since my last post. (and about 2 months since my tank went out of cycle)
> 
> ...


Hi all.

I added the moss ball and within about 4-5 days the tank started to finally cycle! The moss ball seemed to do the trick by whatever mechanism.

By day 7 the tank is completely cycled.

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
pH actually going up now to the 7.6 range so using pH down as needed

Thanks!
Juggernaut


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## beaslbob (Oct 17, 2012)

Juggernaut122 said:


> Hi all.
> 
> I added the moss ball and within about 4-5 days the tank started to finally cycle! The moss ball seemed to do the trick by whatever mechanism.
> 
> ...


Don't use ph down (or any other chemicals) to just control pH.

First if you're using the ph test kit try the high range ph test kit. Planted tank with low co2 have high pH due to low co2. So always measure pH just before lights out. As long as that is high it just means low co2. Even fish "needing" low ph (7 or less) thrive for years and years with planted tank PH values over 8. After all it is hardly unhealthy for fish to be in a low co2 high oxygen environment.


my .02


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## idiomkrone (Feb 15, 2015)

Hallyx said:


> I know there's a recent perspective that a tank can be too clean. I'm leaning in that direction, myself. But I draw the line at ammonia. _NO_ ammonia is the right amount -- 0.0ppm. Same for nitrite. You want to let your dissolved waste (DOC) build-up, fine. You want to let nitrate increase >40ppm, no harm. Algae, great. But ammonia is the big stressor -- more than water changes, more than pH drift, more than high TDS. I accept NO ammonia in my tanks.
> 
> Safestart has cycled many tanks of members with whom I correspond. The occasional time it does not work leads me to conclude one of two things.
> 
> ...


Hey,

Of the people you know who have used safestart successfully, do you know how long it takes on average to start seeing nitrites?

Have you heard any good/bad about Topfin Bacteria Supplement?

Thanks!

Gage


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## Seldoncrisis (Jan 4, 2019)

I don’t get it. My tank has been set up for 8 weeks now. I have seeded with old filter media, gravel from a cycled tank and have used several ‘quick start’ solutions from major manufacturers. I still have 0.5ppm ammonia. 0 nitrites and some nitrates. My already cycled tank (given to me, 8 year old goldfish in it!) show 0ppm ammonia on the same test kit, so it’s not that. This is the first tank I have tried to cycle from scratch. Filtration = ‘2000 lph’ on a 200l tank. Tried running it on 200, 500, 750 lph to see if flow rate was a problem, but no. Any advice?


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