# New Guy: Nitrite Problem "Fish In" Cycling Tank



## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

10 gallon filtered, heated tank, Ammonia-.25 ppm, Nitrites 2-5ppm, Nitrates 10-20ppm, PH 7.0-7.2
Freshwater aquarium, 2.5-3 inch Betta fish, 78 degree water, 
10 gallon Aquelon Quiet Flow filter (kit) 100gph
7 hours fluorescent light per day (kit hood light)
fed 3 Betta pellets twice daily and freeze-dried brine shrimp once a week (pellets the other feeding) 



Hey, just joined because I need some help. Didn't know about cycling, received a Betta from a wedding in a vase with a plant on top. Did research - found this to be awful - bought and set up a 10 gallon tank, put the Betta in.

It's been 23 days since I put the Betta in the 10 gallon. Did a ton of research and bought an API test kit. Did plenty of water changes (25% each time). He got fin rot. Treated him with Maracyn Two - the hole in his fin healed, though he still looks ragged and the edges are whitish.

Used TLC Start Smart to help speed things up so he might survive the process - got a small Ammonia spike and a big Nitrite spike and Nitrates started to appear. Re-tested my PH and found it to be 7.8. Whoa.

Holes keep appearing in his fins and disappearing from what I can tell. I have been worried about this Betta from the start, especially after all of the research I've done, so I buy some Mopani driftwood (tannins lower PH) and 3 full grown Java ferns (feed on Nitrites) and put them in.

Water is now dirty brown (tannins) and the Java ferns were from PetCo, so they're in ratty condition but I bought from where I had access at the time - more worried about the Betta.

Did a 25% water change last night and those numbers above are from AFTER the water change. I'm gonna test my tap water for Nitrites tonight.

Should the measurement stay at 5ppm AFTER a 25% water change?

The Ammonia and the PH both have dropped significantly since adding the driftwood and plants. He likes the real plants and the wood. He swims through the real plants and never did with the silk ones.

He also swims up to the filter outflow and flares his gills huge (as if taking a big deep breath) and continues to swim around. He doesn't do this all the time.

I cut a 1 Liter soda bottle up and wrapped the middle of it around the filter to stem the outflow - it was knocking him all over the tank.

Initially I just rubber-banded an additional filter cartridge in front of the outflow. I think i caused the fin rot by not using the full force of the filter but he hated the current.

What else can I do to cycle this quicker? I want to help the Betta as much as I can and I'm at a loss.

Sorry about the long post. I'm brand new to this and I'm freaked out. Thanks for any help you can give.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I would bet those numbers are your tap water, which will (when you confirm with numbers of tests on just the tap water itself) be easy to deal with. Prime is a water conditioner that detoxifies all three (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) should any of all be in your tap water. Assuming the tank is cycled [and I'm betting it may be] Prime will handle water changes.

You mention plants, that's excellent for the above and also for the betta. As for your filter, I would remove it and let the tank run itself. A 10g with plants can easily handle a single betta, or a group of small fish. You can see the photo of my experimental 10g for proof of that. No filter, no light, just a heater; plants and 9 Boraras brigittae and (so far) 1 Corydoras pygmaeus [got the only one in the store tank]. Plus, betta come from very quiet swamps and ponds and do not appreciate water movement although something minimal like a sponge filter would be acceptable.

Wood tannins will not hurt any fish that comes from such environments naturally, as betta do. The anabantids live in stagnant ponds and swamps with very acidic soft water.

With plants and one betta, the tank will cycle itself. I guarantee it. Those high ammonia and nitrite are most likely your tap water, but we'll deal with that when you post numbers later. I would remove the filter though.

Byron.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks for the advice and input, much appreciated. It's not the tap water. Zero's across the board, except for a high PH of 7.8. The Mopani did what I wanted and my tank is 7.0 - 7.2. I didn't want to use tablets, heard they were unstable sometimes.

Tested the tank and the numbers were the same. Gonna do a 10-15% water change right after I log off and maybe do a small one like that every day for a week and test again.

I don't know what else to do. Betta seems happy, except there was another tiny hole in his fin today. I think he may be doing it to himself with all of his swimming near the filter. I did put in aquarium salt to help him heal as well - forgot to mention that in my last post.

I believe you have success with no filter but at this stage with new plants in the water, I'm afraid to just get rid of it. Plus you're the only person I've ever heard say unplug it. Like I said, you may be successful but I'm just a rookie, so I'd rather not chance it just yet. Thanks again, I need all the help I can get.

W.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

wavebeast said:


> Thanks for the advice and input, much appreciated. It's not the tap water. Zero's across the board, except for a high PH of 7.8. The Mopani did what I wanted and my tank is 7.0 - 7.2. I didn't want to use tablets, heard they were unstable sometimes.
> 
> Tested the tank and the numbers were the same. Gonna do a 10-15% water change right after I log off and maybe do a small one like that every day for a week and test again.
> 
> ...


My thinking is for your betta. I can assure you these fish do not appreciate currents, and fish in that environment are stressed, and stress means their immune system is being weakened, leading to disease and possible parasite infestations that otherwise they could fight off. This plus the fact that betta breathe air (and must to survive) because they occur in such oxygen-poor stagnant waters means the betta will come to no harm. That fin damage problem could well disappear too.

Salt is very bad for betta as indeed most fish. I posted at length on this topic earlier this evening, so will copy over for your help:

Salt affects the slime coat and gills because it is an irritant and the fish thus produce more mucous as a means of fighting it. Here's the reason.

Salt makes the water more dense than the same water without salt. The aquarium contains water. The bodies of fish and plant leaves also contain water [just as we do--we are, what is it, 90-some percent water?]. The water in the aquarium and the water in the fish/plant is separated by a semi-permeable layer which is the cell. Water can pass through this cell. When either body of water is more dense, the other less-dense body of water will pass through the membrane to equalize the water on both sides.

Water is constantly passing through the cells of fish by osmosis in an attempt to equate the water inside the fish (which is more dense) with the water in the aquarium. Put another way, the aquarium water is diluting the fish's body water until they are equal. Freshwater fish regularly excrete this water through respiration and urination. This is the issue behind pH differences as well as salt and other substances. It increases the fish's work--the kidney is used in the case of salt--which also increases the fish's stress in order to maintain their internal stability. Also, the fish tends to produce more mucus especially in the gills; the reason now seems to be due to the irritant property of salt--the fish is trying to get away from it.

There is varying opinion on salt, I admit that; but I have never yet found one written authority who recommends salt in a freshwater aquarium in general, only as a medication/treatment for something.

Dr. Stanley Weitzman, Emeritus Research Scientist at the Smithsonian and an acknowledged authority on characoid fishes (tetras, etc) writes that 100 ppm of salt is the maximum tolerated by characins, and several species show considerable stress leading to death at less, 60 ppm. 100 ppm is equivalent to .38 of one gram of salt per gallon, which is about 1/15 of one teaspoon [one level teaspoon is 6 grams].

This is why I do not recommend salt, whatever it may say elsewhere. 

Byron.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

I agree with much of above. I would use a water conditioner such as PRIME for water changes and 
would reduce feedings to once a day.
I would also employ a small sponge filter for the tank for if plants are not thriving, then water is becoming polluted. I would use a gravel vaccum on one third to one half the bottom once a week and a different area each week taking care to move the wood to vaccum waste that may gather around or under the wood.
Might consider floating plants to go along with Java Fern and would remove any dead plant material which can foul the water.
Would also ensure that no one else is feeding the fish.


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## brandelion (May 17, 2010)

I've had bettas off and on for years and can assure you Byron is right - the betta would be better off without the filter - if you're worried about filtration I'd do what he suggested and get a small sponge filter although you really don't need it with the plants in there (but if you want you could pull off a small sponge filter and air pump (to run it) for under $20) - he might even like a little bit of movement, but what he's getting off your filter is just gonna freak him out 

plus I would imagine he'll find it hard to eat if the surface is always moving... his mouth turns up like that so he can pull his food from the surface - so that would be sorta like you trying to eat a bowl of soup on a carnival ride


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks for all the info and advice, you people rock. I'll take the salt out (extensive, well-documented and researched reasoning by the way - well done), though I did put it in there to help with the fin rot (which is getting worse, btw).

I'll pick up some Prime. I currently use Stress Coat. I didn't know there was water conditioner that neutralized the ammonia & nitrites in the water as well as de-chlorinated it. Does that defeat the nitrogen cycle though? I suppose not, or they'd be out of business.

I understand and appreciate the input about the filter - I just can't let it go yet. Besides, found out last night that he enjoys it or at least it seems that way. I spent about a half hour or more observing him and realized that he wasn't flaring his gills and trying to breathe fresh water from the filter like I had originally thought. He was actually swimming back and forth through the current. Seemed like he was just havin' fun. Plus I slowed it down with the soda bottle, so it doesn't knock him all over anymore.

He gets to his food fine, though it does spin away or sink sometimes when he's not paying attention. He's pretty spastic when he gets fed. Eventually I'll just break down and buy an adjustable filter - but for now I've spent enough money on one fish (aside from picking up the Prime of course).

I would buy one now if it meant his life or death but I really don't think it does. Thanks again for all your help. I'll do a water change with Prime tonight and going forward. Until the tank cycles and I don't need to use it anymore I'm guessing? Then go back to Stress Coat?

Also, the java ferns are starting to spread their roots a bit and I noticed some white fuzz on one of the roots on top of the drift wood - like the consistency of the spores dandelions give off in the Spring - should I get worried yet?

Thanks again. This forum is exactly what I wanted/needed - info, info and more info.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Oh yeah - recommendations on floating plants? Should I add Java moss as well to the driftwood or something like that? And my gravel "vaccuum" is just a crappy siphon that doesn't really vaccuum anything and is difficult to get started by following the directions - any recommendations for something better? I feel like I don't get enough debris out when I do a water change.

I know it needs to be there for the nitrogen cycle but I want to remove the larger plant debris with more efficiency if possible.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Prime detoxifies by binding the nitrite and nitrate somehow, they explain this on their website, but it is still available to the bacteria (the nitrite that is). Ammonia is changed to ammonium which is also used by the bacteria (or plants). Once things are settled, a water conditioner that does what is needed is best, that depends upon your tap water; most has chlorine and possibly chloramine, and maybe some heavy metals, so a conditioner that handles these will work.

There are manual water changers that you can get at fish stores, can't remember the name, someone will know. That and a bucket will do the job.

For a new filter I would also suggest a sponge, hooked up to a small air pump. That is all you need in a 20g with plants. I use a sponge in my 20g and 33g, they are too small for the expense of a canister filter.

Floating plant like Water Sprite is ideal, its in our profiles.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks B. Appreciate the info so very much. Did a big (40%) water change about an hour and a half ago, will test again in a bit. Ran out of money so Prime will have to wait until tomorrow when I get paid. Small hole in his fin turned into a ragged tear.

Removed the aquarium salt as advised (had it in a container with holes in the lid). Just test and hope another day won't hurt him more. Btw, your planted tanks look amazing. One step at a time for me at this stage but that's a goal worth trying for eventually. Thanks again, I've become quite attached to this Betta and all of your advice and help means a lot.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Don't know why it didn't post my last reply. Did a 40% water change tonight, about 3 & 1/2 hrs ago. Just tested the water again. Amm - .50ppm, Nitrites - 2ppm, Nitrates - 5 ppm. So I reduced the Nitrites and Nitrates but went up .25 in Ammonia.

I just don't know what to do. Couldn't buy Prime tonight - get paid tomorrow. I guess I'll do another WC tomorrow night and add Prime and hope for the best. Removed the Aq. Salt as recommended. The tiny hole in his fin became a ragged tear.

Maybe he's catching it on the driftwood? Too much to hope I guess. I'll just have to do daily 10% water changes until the tank cycles and hope he makes it. Thanks for all of your help and advice, it means a lot. I'm kind of attached to the little guy, I hope this all works out as well as it can.

Excellent planted tanks by the way. Simply beautiful. Something to shoot for in the future.

W.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

One betta in a 10g with live plants should not have a problem with ammonia or nitrite. And aside from the fin, he is looking "normal?" I'm wondering if your tests may be out for one of a few reasons. If nitrite really was at 2, any fish in the tank--if still alive--would be showing signs of it.

At this point I would ride it out.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Looks as normal as can be. Active, swims a lot, eats fine - even "begs" for more - reacts when I get close to the glass. Stopped flaring his gills at me and near the filter. Watched him last night and he does swim under the Mopani wood occasionally but I didn't see him catch his fins.

I've kind of come to the same conclusion about riding it out. As long as I keep the WC's up, no matter what's going on - he should be Ok (I hope). Just wish i knew all of this before I got him as a door prize.

Thanks again. You must get this stuff all the time. 

How long does it take you to get a tank as lush as the ones you have pics of in your profile? I'll have to check out the "Planted Tank" section of this forum. You just can't beat that color.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

> How long does it take you to get a tank as lush as the ones you have pics of in your profile? I'll have to check out the "Planted Tank" section of this forum. You just can't beat that color.


Thank you. From scratch (with store bought plants as opposed to your own from an existing tank) anywhere from 2-5 months. If everything is in sync. Full spectrum/cool blue combination lighting helps as it does not distort colours.

I have one Echinodorus macrophyllus that is more than 12 years old, the far left in my 115g, with two daughter plants from last year also in that tank. The three Echinodorus bleherae I've had for almost two years, they have had growth spurts a few times, and this spring sent out several inflorescences (flower spikes) with many daughter plants.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Well, one thing at a time. My Betta is normal in all aspects except for a vicious case of fin rot. I'm guessing that's him reacting to the nitrite levels. I bought the Prime and I'll do another 40% WC tomorrow using it, so hopefully the fin rot stops.

Wanted to ask you - one of my java ferns has a white, fuzzy substance around half of it's roots. Should I remove this when I do the WC - do you think it might be harmful to the fish? There's a tiny bit of fuzz around one of the other roots as well. The leaves seem to be mostly Ok, though some are turning brownish. The roots are spreading fairly well in only a week. 

From now on, I won't be buying plants from PetCo. I just didn't know where else to get aquatic plants from. Found a place that's supposed to be good. Will look for more there. I only have API Leaf Zone plant food because I heard java ferns are hardy and easily kept compared to some other freshwater plants.

Any info would of course be helpful. Showed your tanks to my girlfriend by the way- she loved them. And now my skill as an aquarist and aquatic plant keeper look sad in comparison of course, but I figured you'd like to know she "oohed" and "aahed" at the pics. Good stuff.

W.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

If the "fuzzy" stuff is the rock wool that plants frequently are grown in, it won't hurt, but it is good to remove as much of it as you can. Remember that Java Fern do not get planted in the substrate; they must be affixed to wood or rock (you can use black cotton thread to hold them until they attach themselves which they will do). If the rhizome is buried, it will usually rot and the plant dies.

The Leaf Zone will probably be sufficient for JF. But any higher plants probably not. I've written on this many times, but if you need suggestions for the future, just ask.

Thanks again for the compliments on the tanks. I hope they show that planted aquaria are not difficult nor expensive to have; it just takes a bit of knowledge in providing the basics that the plants need, same as keeping healthy fish.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks for the rock wool info. There was a gel-like brownish substance all the roots were in when I bought them. I did remove as much as I could but I guess I missed some. The JFs are attached to the driftwood I bought, not in the substrate. I tied two of them to the wood with dental floss and slightly wedged the other three into larger crevasses in the wood.

Just tested the current water and the Ammonia is between 0 & .25, good. The Nitrites are still showing up at 2ppm, and Nitrates at 5ppm. So I guess the levels staying the same (or better in the case of the Ammonia) from the last big WC is a good sign. I'm gonna do another 40% change as soon as the new water reaches the temp of the tank (out of the tap, faucet set all the way to cold - water came in at 81 degrees). I conditioned with Prime this time, so I think we're headed in the right direction, finally.

Put the feeding to once a day too. Once the Prime is in the tank for a few hours, I'll test again later tonight or even tomorrow night. The results will still show up the same I believe - it doesn't remove the Nitrite and Nitrate just detoxifies, right?

Then I'll do a gallon WC every other day with Prime maybe for a week. Then stick to weeklies and keep testing. Maybe add some more plants soon. Probably just basics for now though. I would need at least a new light bulb for the hood, at best a new hood with two bulbs. Right now it's just regular fluorescent for viewing.

Thanks again.

W.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Correct on Prime's working.

You don't want two tubes over a 10g, you will have uncontrollable algae. One tube is sufficient, a full spectrum or daylight with a kelvin rating of around 6500K will be fine.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Update. Sorry, this should probably be on another post but I figured you might be curious.

Ammonia - 0ppm, Nitrite - .25ppm, Nitrate - 5ppm, PH 6.8. Looks like the 40% WC last night helped a ton and with the Prime the water should be just about fine for the Betta. I was gonna do every-other-day WCs but now I'm thinking I should wait until Sunday - maybe test the water every other day.

I'm probably going to post the stats and history on the 'diseases' thread to see if I should be doing any more for his fin rot. It's not pretty. Shredded ends, two holes from yesterday have become three. I'm hoping it was a reaction to the water and it will heal but I'm still worried.

Thanks again for all your help. I'll post pics when I figure out how and get a nice plant base going, maybe some community fish when I'm sure the water is good and whatever is bothering the Betta is cured. Have to take care of that first.


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

wavebeast said:


> Update. Sorry, this should probably be on another post but I figured you might be curious.
> 
> Ammonia - 0ppm, Nitrite - .25ppm, Nitrate - 5ppm, PH 6.8. Looks like the 40% WC last night helped a ton and with the Prime the water should be just about fine for the Betta. I was gonna do every-other-day WCs but now I'm thinking I should wait until Sunday - maybe test the water every other day.
> 
> ...


 
Testing the water each day will be helpful to keep track of ammonia levels as well as nitrites which are equally toxic to your fish. Even at .25 these toxins are uncomfortable for the fish.(stress)
Would stick with frequent water changes to keep these toxins in check and to also help the fish heal from finrot which is often a result of poor water quality (toxins).
Fish do not normally become Ill overnight ,and water changes will improve the fishes enviornment allowing the fishes immune system to once again become strong enough to combat most health issues much like our own immune system does.
While some medications may be helpful in stopping a particular bacterial pathogen,fungus, from spreading, It is the fishes immune system that helps the fish to heal and it doesn't happen overnight, but over days,weeks.
If the fishes enviornment is suffering, then all the medications one wishes to use will have little effect and in some cases, only creates more issues further stressing already sick fish.
As mentioned,fish don't usually become Ill over night ,nor do they heal overnight. maintaing good water quality will go a long way in preventing fish from becoming sick and that means less money spent on medications,and more money for fish.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks for the input 1077 - good stuff. But if I'm using Prime as a water conditioner - doesn't that detoxify the Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates in the tank? That's the only reason i was going to wait until Sunday for the next WC while still testing the water.

So are daily or every-other-day WCs necessary until the tank cycles if I'm using Prime?

If the levels stay the same for almost a week, I'm almost finished cycling. I just want to do the right thing. If daily WCs will help heal the fin rot then of course I'll do it.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

First off, I agree with what 1077 advised. Now to answer your latest questions.

Prime detoxifies ammonia by changing it to harmless ammonium. Ammonia test kits (most that we use, including API's) measure ammonia and ammonium as "ammonia." So seeing a number above zero for ammonia may or may not mean trouble [more in a moment].

As for nitrite and nitrate, Prime works by binding these with other compounds so they can still be used by the bacteria (and plants if present) but are "harmless" to the fish. I believe nitrite will still show in tests, same as ammonia. Nitrate we need not worry about because it is harmless at these low levels.

Now, Prime detoxifies for 24 hours, possibly a bit longer, but no more than 48 hours; so Seachem told me in response to my direct questions to them. So this means that if you do a water change using Prime on Monday, and on Tuesday you see ammonia or nitrite, it should be assumed that Prime may not be detoxifying it after 24 hours, and another water change should be done. And so forth. I would not risk the fish by accepting Seachem's "may last up to 48 hours", I would go with 24 hours.

Also, I haven't gone back in this thread, but--has your tap water been tested for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? It is important to know if any of these are entering via tap water during water changes, as opposed to occurring from within the tank.

Also observe the fish closely; if they appear "normal" chances are the ammonia and nitrite are being managed. I'm not suggesting you leave things until the fish show signs of trouble, not at all; continue the tests, daily water changes, etc, as above; but if you are and the fish are looking normal too, then chances are there is no issue.

Byron.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Tap water had 0's across the board - so it's not that. Didn't know the extent of Prime's detoxification lasting so I will do daily water changes uintil the readings are where they should be. Thanks so much for the info, you guys rock.

Aside from the fin rot, the fish seems normal. Eats, is active, etc. The WCs will kepp the water where it should be or as close to where it should be as I can get it until it fully cycles, then weekly from there.

Seriously, thanks for the info. I was so excited by the good readings (in comparison to how awful it was) that i figured I could leave it for a week. Great heads up.

W.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Did a 20% (2 gallon) WC last night, tested the water before I changed it and the readings were the same - Ammonia - 0, Nitrites - .25ppm, Nitrates - 5ppm. Used Prime. Will do another WC tonight for the same amount of water or maybe I should scale it back to 1 gallon daily?

Other than that - so far so good.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

wavebeast said:


> Did a 20% (2 gallon) WC last night, tested the water before I changed it and the readings were the same - Ammonia - 0, Nitrites - .25ppm, Nitrates - 5ppm. Used Prime. Will do another WC tonight for the same amount of water or maybe I should scale it back to 1 gallon daily?
> 
> Other than that - so far so good.


As long as nitrite is above zero, 20% daily will be good. You're on the right track. I would expect nitrite to disappear very soon now that nitrates are showing.

By the way, if you are using the API nitrate kit, regent #2 has to be shaken for 2 minutes, not 30 seconds as in the instructions, to get an accurate reading. Make sure you do this, otherwise the reading could be inaccurate (high).

Byron.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks B. 2 gallon WC it is. BTW, you mentioned that before and I've been doing it ever since - the minute shake on bottle #2 for Nitrate testing using the API kit. Good lookin'-out.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Ok, I have an issue. I did another 20% WC last night and tested the water before I changed it and the reading came out the same - Amm - 0, Nitrite - .25, Nitrate - 5ppm. That wasn't encouraging after I did a 40% WC on Sunday, then a 20% WC on Tuesday. 

My issue is: I am going away for the weekend - unavoidable. I will have access tot he tank tonight and tomorrow morning (Thurs night/Friday morning) - then not until Sunday afternoon. So over 48 hours away from the tank and the Betta.

Do I do a 40% or more WC tonight before I go? Do I then add more Prime straight to the tank before I leave for work tomorrow morning? I think Bettas can go a bit without eating, so I'm not too worried about that but the water (and his progressing fin rot) scares me. I don't want to come home Sunday to find out I couldn't do enough to save him. I've had him in this tank for 31 days now.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Looking back through this thread,nitrite has gone from 2 down to .25 in a week, so I think that is on track. When you can do it close to your departure, I would test and if nitrite is present do a water change. The presence of nitrate at 5 (with your correct use of the kit) would assure me.

Byron.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Thanks Byron. I'll do a 40% WC tonight and test tomorrow morning. If Nitrites are still there, I'll do another one. I appreciate the advice. I always make sure I shake the 2nd bottle in the API kit for 2 minutes and the test tube for one minute to test the Nitrate.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Got home, tested water - almost 72 hours after my 40% WC, readings are Ammonia - 0 (thank you beat-up java ferns from PetCo), Nitrites - between .25 & .50ppm, and Nitrates - between 0 and 5ppm. Maybe the size of my WCs (third in a week at 40%) are stopping the tank from cycling quicker, not sure. Because of the Nitrite measurement I'm about to do a 20% change. I guess I'll keep it up daily until the Nitrites read 0. Thanks again for all the help.


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Last night - about 24 hours after my 20% water change - I tested the water again. Ammonia - 0, Nitrate - between 0 and 5ppm and the Nirtrite didn't match any color on the chart. It was super pale, light blue. Since there is only one blue color on the Nitrite scale, I'll assume it's 0 or almost 0. So that rocks.

I didn't change the water last night as a result. I'll test again tonight and every night for a week or so to make sure it stays like that but this is the best reading I've ever gotten. This is awesome (so far).


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## wavebeast (Jul 20, 2010)

Same readings tonight. So far so good. Fish looked better last night before I tested as well. I don't know if they can look healthier but he did. So far, I'm so happy. Hope it lasts. I'll need to get a good 6500 watt sunlight bulb and some carpet plants, maybe some floating plants as well soon. I didn't want to add any more plants until the tank was right.

I'll wait (how long?) to make sure the Betta's fin problems were water-realted before adding more fish but so far it seems like they were.

Slowly but surely on our way.


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