# beginners help needed pls



## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Hi all I'm new to keeping fish I've bought my first ever fish today  I got 1 female fighter and 6 glowlight tetra. There's only one thing I'm worried about at the moment the fish have been in the tank for about 4 hours now and 1 of my tetras isn't schooling just sitting at the top of the tank alone while the other 5 look active I've noticed 1 of the tetras is larger than the others and seems to be bullying the tetra by itself. Could this 1 tetra be stressed or something?? Any help welcome thank you


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

What size is your tank? Did you cycle it?


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Hi it's a 25 gal tank and yes it was cycled for 2 days before any fish were put it in. I got my fish today after having a water sample test and he said was all fine


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Your tank isn't cycled. I'm not home to be able to give you all the information you need but I suggest reading up on the nitrogen cycle while we wait for someone else to come along.


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## ClassicRocker (Jan 20, 2014)

Have to agree w/Flint........."your tank isn't cycled". 



Flint said:


> Your tank isn't cycled. I'm not home to be able to give you all the information you need but I suggest reading up on the nitrogen cycle while we wait for someone else to come along.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

What does cycled mean Then???
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Ok so if I understand it right it takes a few weeks for the cycle to begin from the fish waste and food etc so at the start the fish are at danger but are getting use to the new water. So when the cycle starts at this point they will start to act normal????
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I suggest you get a large bottle of Tetra Safe Start and add the entire thing. You're also going to want to get a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. API is a good brand.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> I suggest you get a large bottle of Tetra Safe Start and add the entire thing. You're also going to want to get a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. API is a good brand.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Ok thank you for your help I will go get some 2moro. And again thank you for the knowledge I know it's not easy but I want to learn this 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will be home in about an hour and a half and give you more information.  I suggest you do a 50% water change in the mean time though.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will be home in about an hour and a half and give you more information.  I suggest you do a 50% water change in the mean time though.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Ok I will look forward to the information. So the 50% water change does the water have to be same temperature as what is in the tank and what about all the toxins that are in tap water, just add the water conditioner???
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Yes, same temp (just use your finger to gauge) and use water conditioner. Remove 50%, add conditioner to the tank and refill.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> Yes, same temp (just use your finger to gauge) and use water conditioner. Remove 50%, add conditioner to the tank and refill.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Ok and what will I benefit from doing this?? These are things I need to why they are done

Ok so I've researched a little, water changes adds fresh water and stabilises the nitrates in the water correct??? Is it better to leave the water over night so ph levels to stabilise but if I do this wouldn't the temperature be low???


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

It will remove ammonia from the water that the fish are producing.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

I never thought it was this technical haha but I guess that's the beauty of keeping wonderful fish


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

Welcome to the forum! 

Sorry it seems you've had such a rough start.

The fish are producing waste currently, in the form of ammonia. This ammonia is toxic to fish and can kill them. Ammonia is removed in a cycled tank by beneficial bacteria that converts it to nitrite (toxic) and then nitrate (non-toxic in low quantities).

Since your tank is currently uncycled, the ammonia will be free in the water until you remove it. A 50% water change will lower the amount of ammonia and keep your fish healthy and alive.

Don't trust the people at the pet store. If you get your water tested there, get the NUMBERS, otherwise they have no idea what they're doing and will tell you it's all fine, when in fact it isn't.

Prime by Seachem is a great water conditioner that will temporarily detoxify the ammonia in your tank while you are cycling.

API Liquid Master Test Kit will be invaluable to you during the cycle to track your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. You can purchase it in-stores or on Amazon. Amazon.com: API Freshwater Master Test Kit: Pet Supplies

Water changes are to be done weekly at about half the volume of the tank. BUT, until you're cycled, you should be doing 50% water changes daily to keep your fish from being poisoned by the ammonia in the tank.

The cycle can take quite awhile. Tetra Safe Start may help jump your cycle. If you have any friends with tanks, you can ask to borrow a bit of their filter media or a decoration for the beneficial bacteria that would be on it. 

Just to be clear, the tank you have is a 25 gallon stocked with 1 female betta fish, and 6 glow light tetras?

I also strongly recommend not getting anymore fish until you have completed your cycle. It will only put them in danger and make your cycle take longer.


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Wait until you get that test kit! You'll feel like a mad scientist!!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

Yes, there is a lot of responsibility and learning that comes into keeping fish  Once you've got it all mastered though, it really does become second nature.


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Thank you, Jentralala!!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Thank you people you're really helping me to understand why all this is needed but like I said I'm scared that if I change the water 50% at the correct temperature what about the ph levels???? As to the above post yes I have 1 female fighter and 5 glowlight tetras wonderful fish


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Just run your tap the same temp as your tank it'll be fine this is part of regular tank maintenance 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> Just run your tap the same temp as your tank it'll be fine this is part of regular tank maintenance
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Ok thank you so up until my cycle is finished I need 50% water changes daily(check)
A full bottle of that stay safe solution
And a testing kit

One last thing how will I know when the cycle is complete??? And every time I change the water do I need to add that water conditioner???


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Once you get safe start you won't do a water change until your tank is cycled or your ammonia goes above .50ppm. 

You will know your cycle is complete when you get readings of 
0 ammonia 
0 nitrite 
>20 nitrate 

When your nitrates get to 20 ppm is when you do a water change. 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> Once you get safe start you won't do a water change until your tank is cycled or your ammonia goes above .50ppm.
> 
> You will know your cycle is complete when you get readings of
> 0 ammonia
> ...


Ok I will write this information down thank you now I know what I'm looking for as in numbers. Flint you have been a massive help thank you so much for helping me to understand.


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

welcome to the forum and to the wonderful world of fish-keeping!

Don't be intimidated by the technical-sounding terms and methods; to set up and maintain a freshwater aquarium is quite simple and fairly easy, especially if you have the help of experienced keepers like us at TFK! Knowing that you're on the right track is more than half the battle.
You're doing what is known in the hobby as "fish-in" cycling. I always recommend fishless cycling, where the aquarium is allowed to mature and develop bacteria colonies before fish are added, but since you already have fish in, you can proceed as is. With fish-in cycling it is very important to monitor you water quality readings with an accurate test kit to protect the lives and health of your fish. Frequent water changes will be necessary to avoid killing your fish especially in the early part of the cycle when ammonia and nitrite can be expected to spike. Ammonia and nitrite are very toxic to fish. Later in the cycle, when most ammonia and nitrite is being quickly converted to nitrAte, you can back off of the water changes a bit.

The test kit is a bit of an expense, but it will last for years, so get a good one.

First step in cycling is to produce ammonia, which, with fish-in cycling, is achieved simply by feeding the fish. Ammonia will spike to dangerous levels, so be ready to change plenty of water to get it down. 

Next, bacteria colonies will develop that will convert the ammonia into nitrite. Nitrite will then spike to dangerous levels, so again, test daily and be ready to act to reduce your concentration of nitrite. Nitrite is very toxic to fish-DO NOT LET YOUR FISH LIVE IN HIGH NITRITE FOR LONG or they will most certainly die.

After nitrite spikes, your tank should become colonized by another type of bacteria that converts nitrite into nitrAte. I capitalize the "A" so that you will see the difference between nitrite and nitrate- one has an" i" and one has an "a". NitrAte is much less toxic to fish, but high levels are harmful and even deadly if left to accumulate.

The nitrogen cycle in a mature aquarium is a beautiful thing- the two most poisonous biologically produced substances( ammonia and nitrite) can be processed by naturally occurring bacteria to the point of being unmeasurable in your tank water... the less poisonous bio-product ( nitrAte) cannot be effectively processed by bacteria, but is easily removed from your tank with weekly or bi-weekly water changes. Plants can also help to control nitrAte. 

Might sound really complicated and technical, but after your first month or two, everything becomes very simple and easy. Plus we will be here to guide you if you post your test results. 

Please post test result of your tap water so that we can see what you'll be putting into the tank.Of primary concern for cycling is pH. If your water is too acidic you might have serious problems, but that's rare to see.Also test your tank water, but i doubt it will be too much different than the tap water this early in the cycle.

The person who tested your tank water after two days and told you that is was fine does not know very much about fish tanks. after two days i would expect all readings to be 0. That's because biological processes have not had enough time to affect the water chemistry, nothing has spiked YET, but it will- every new tank will experience spikes in water chemistry before it stabilizes.

Good luck, and best wishes for a swift and easy cycle!


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

hello there :-D popping in to see how you're getting on.
with the advise you're getting..you're going to breeze through.


did anyone mention not to touch your filter during the water change ?


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Thanks for the information I will make sure I get a testing kit 2moro it's all starting to make sense on what actually happens within the tank and how to counter it actually happening and it all thanks to help of you people  I will make sure I post test results up so u can give me advice on what is needed but like you all say once the cycle is completed it sounds as though it pretty much looks after itself by not needing to do as much while going through the cycle


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

willow said:


> hello there :-D popping in to see how you're getting on.
> with the advise you're getting..you're going to breeze through.
> 
> 
> did anyone mention not to touch your filter during the water change ?


Yes I heard it best not to change both at the same time and try to clean the tank and then another day clean the filter is that right


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

at the moment only change the water.
no need to touch anything else…once the tank is cycled then
fish keepers give the filter a gentle clean roughly once a month or so,
and change media in the filter even less


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

willow said:


> at the moment only change the water.
> no need to touch anything else…once the tank is cycled then
> fish keepers give the filter a gentle clean roughly once a month or so,
> and change media in the filter even less


Thank you willow  what is this media u speak of??? Is that inside the filter???

I've just researched this willow I understand this now.


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

The ph levels that are in the tank will be the same as the ones in your tap. It doesn't change that drastically within a few days 

We all do weekly water changes and they are nothing but beneficial to our fish.

Remove half the volume of the tank, add the proper amount of conditioner (say you remove 15 gallons, so add 15 gallons worth of conditioner. UNLESS you have Prime, and then dose the entire volume of the tank, so 25 gallons worth.), and then add water from the tap.

Are you using buckets for your water change? Make sure they are clean buckets that will only be used for your tank. 

What brand of water conditioner do you have?

Also, to make water changes faster you can invest in one of these (Amazon.com: Aqueon Aquarium Water Changer - 25 Feet: Pet Supplies), or if you're handy you can make something similar yourself.

I personally use a hose to drain water from my tank into the shower, and then I have an attachment on my faucet and one on the hose so that I can connect it to the tap and fill that way.

You may also want to invest in a few suction cups from the pet store to help hold your hose in place while you are draining/filling the tank.

Hope that answered your question!
If you have any more questions feel free to ask.


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

Yes, the filter media is what is inside the filter. Generally there will be some kind of sponge/floss material in the form of cartridges, depending on the brand of filter you have  

Don't worry about doing anything with these for the first month or so, and then you can just gently clean them in water that you've emptied from the tank for a water change to get rid of any filth.

Many manufactures have something in the instructions to toss and buy media once a month, but this is just a money gimmick. You can hold onto that media for ages. The only time you need to replace it is when it is literally falling apart and that can take a LONG time


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Yes, once your tank is cycled, all you will have to do is once a month (or when you notice the flow get weak) is take a cup or two of tank water and pull the filter pad out, hold it over the sink and rinse it with the tank water then put it back. Don't change that thing until it's in shambles!


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## rsskylight04 (Nov 9, 2013)

I change filter media maybe once per YEAR or less.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

morning fellow fish keepers  so today im going to go buy the testing kit(shop opens in about a hour) ive decided not to buy the start safe solution as i want to get use to the changing water part  just a quick one ive heard two different answers now to this when you change your water do you add the water conditioner to the tank or to the tap water im about to put in??? thank you

NEVER MIND SORRY ABOUT THAT I RE-READ THROUGH THE THREAD AND FLINT HAD ALREADY ANSWERED THAT QUESTION FOR ME. DAMN EARLY MORNINGS!!! HAHA.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

just to let you guys know i have purchased a jbl combiset test kit dont know if they are any good but it tests everything and wasnt cheap. i have just done my first water change and added conditioner to water i will post test results up once i have time and figured out how to use it as at the moment im going for a tattoo. thanks for the help guys much appreciated


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I've never heard of that kit. Is it liquid or strips? Does it take ammonia, nitrate and nitrite?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I just looked it up and it seems that it tests nitrate and nitrite but not ammonia. You can get the ammonia portion of an API Liquid Test Kit separately most places. You will need this as well.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> I just looked it up and it seems that it tests nitrate and nitrite but not ammonia. You can get the ammonia portion of an API Liquid Test Kit separately most places. You will need this as well.


Ok thanks flint I know it's a liquid test and just go off the cards that are supplied with it
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Yes, but you will need to be testing for ammonia as well and nitrite and nitrate and that kit does not include ammonia from what I saw.


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## ClassicRocker (Jan 20, 2014)

Not sure what you are telling this person in your reply here about a w/c. 
Are you saying to add the conditioner to the water in the tank BEFORE putting the new tap water in?? I did that once and then was told, by a member on here, to add the conditioner (Prime for us) to the tap water (in a bucket/container) BEFORE putting that water into the tank. Not to add conditioner to tank water then put the tap water into the tank. 
As far as the percentage of water to take out, we go with 20%, not 50%. But, ours is only a 5 gallon tank. Guess it's up to each individual to how much.



jentralala said:


> The ph levels that are in the tank will be the same as the ones in your tap. It doesn't change that drastically within a few days
> 
> We all do weekly water changes and they are nothing but beneficial to our fish.
> 
> ...


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

ClassicRocker said:


> Not sure what you are telling this person in your reply here about a w/c.
> Are you saying to add the conditioner to the water in the tank BEFORE putting the new tap water in?? I did that once and then was told, by a member on here, to add the conditioner (Prime for us) to the tap water (in a bucket/container) BEFORE putting that water into the tank. Not to add conditioner to tank water then put the tap water into the tank.
> As far as the percentage of water to take out, we go with 20%, not 50%. But, ours is only a 5 gallon tank. Guess it's up to each individual to how much.


Unless you are doing a water change over 50% it is perfectly acceptable to add the water conditioner straight to the tank then add the water. It will mix fast enough it won't harm your fish. 

As far as how much water to change, you cycled with Tetra SafeStart and that is a whole 'nother ball game compared to cycling fish-in without aids. They have to keep ammonia down while the bacteria colonizes on its own, rather than keep ammonia down while added bacteria takes hold.


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

*cough cough*…..hang on just one cotton pickin moment here………
you're going to get INK !!!!!!!!
I WANNNNNNAAAA SEEEEEEEEEE…..:-D


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I'm DYINGGGGG to get my first tattoo! I plan on full sleeves, thigh pieces, hip/rib pieces and a full back piece. (; I get my belly button re-pierced for completing my 5k training after Aliceander is born.


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

:shock2:mg: that's a lot of ink !!!


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint I will make sure to get the ammonia testing kit I'm right in thinking this should stay low by doing regular water changes, I think I'm learning haha.

And yes willow I'm still in the chair now I'm having a full Japanese sleeve on my left arm at the moment I have a Japanese samurai on there, a geisha and at the moment I'm having a fu dog tattooed


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I loooooove fu dogs!


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## Anshuman Awasthy (Mar 5, 2014)

your tank is not cycled, it needs a week or more to cycle.Cycling would result in formation of beneficial bacteria which will turn fish waste harmless.So cycle your tank properly, its very important


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint just let you know the testing kit does do ammonia Nh4 this correct right??? I'm reading the instructions on how to do these tests and I'm sat here thinking I need a chemistry degree(mind boggling) arghhhh
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I believe you need to test for ammonia nh3
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

on my test kit api it says nh3/nh4 ammonia
NO3 nitrAte
NO2 nitrIte


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> I believe you need to test for ammonia nh3
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Yes it does that one aswell  so before I try and attempt these tests the 4 test I need to do are nh3(ammonia) ph(3,0-10) nitrite(NO2) and nitrate(NO3) is correct
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

Ammonia
nitrAte
nitrIte
ph


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

willow said:


> on my test kit api it says nh3/nh4 ammonia
> NO3 nitrAte
> NO2 nitrIte


Willow mine says the same Nh4+nh3 it says Nh4(ammonium ion) may convert into ammonia(nh3) this is why any ammonia measurement should always be accompanied by ph measurements. Helllppppp meeee
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

I would worry more about ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
I can't remember the last time I did a pH test.


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

test the water with all you have 
i looked at pictures on google of the test kit you have,and i can't
say i've seen that at my store…..i have the api test kit.
it's the same principal ….go by the instructions ….pop some tank water
into the little test tube/empty bottle provided…add drops of significant
tester.

found something for you…..go to youtube
type in jbl test kit and you can watch videos of people testing 
their water


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Ok I'm attempting these tests now I will post results for advice


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Alright, we'll be here waiting!


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

Aquarium ammonia test kits read the combined free ammonia (NH3) and the ionized form, ammonium (NH4+). Where one is present in the setup the other will be as well. This combined figure is known as the Total Ammonia Nitrogen (TAN). Ammonia is the toxic portion of this figure. The higher the pH figure of the tank the more toxic the TAN becomes as the proportion of NH3 to NH4+ increases. Ammonium (also known as Ammonium Hydroxide) will be 'soaked up' by plants in preference to nitrates even when the concentration of nitrates far exceeds the concentration of ammonium.

Hope that clarifies


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

yep ^^ what he said :mrgreen:


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

willow said:


> yep ^^ what he said :mrgreen:


That made me laugh:rofl:


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

lets play ping pong while we wait it's taking ages i'll start
ping


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

pong


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

ping


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

pong


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

ping


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

Peng ... Darn it


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

what's peng ?:lol:
ping

don't let chesh catch us spamming lol


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

willow said:


> what's peng ?:lol:
> ping
> 
> don't let chesh catch us spamming lol


Your point of course. :-D

I was never any good at this game, I was about 25 and frequently lost to a 9 year old girl :roll:. Still, at least I used to win the boxing


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

you forgot to pong …


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

I won't shower tomorrow then.... ;-)


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

i hope his test kit hasn't blown up !


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Right people these are my results let me know what is needed please I think a water change 2moro will help. Bear in mind I'm in my cycle aswell.

P.H- 7.0
Nh3- <0,05 
KH- 5 
Co2- 20 
No2- 0,05 
NO3- 30ish 

Are these results good if any of them the No3 seems a little high I think please advise me. Thank you


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Sorry was my first time doin these tests hahaha hope u enjoyed your ping pong lol


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

50% water change time. It's odd that you have nitrates showing up already....


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

was thinking the same thing…all round :-D


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

I changed the water today lol could it be that they have been fed Today???


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

That won't create nitrate. Your nitrate is too high, you need to do another water change. Nitrate has to stay under 20ppm.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Or maybe it's because of the plants I have in the tank they were out of the tanks at the store??? They have sponge around the roots is it better to take this off and just have the roots planted???


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

i've got both ways in my tank.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Well according to.the book in my test kit it says it has to be below 20ppm for saltwater and below 50ppm for freshwater I have freshwater tropical????


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

That's incorrect.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

ClassicRocker said:


> Not sure what you are telling this person in your reply here about a w/c.
> Are you saying to add the conditioner to the water in the tank BEFORE putting the new tap water in?? I did that once and then was told, by a member on here, to add the conditioner (Prime for us) to the tap water (in a bucket/container) BEFORE putting that water into the tank. Not to add conditioner to tank water then put the tap water into the tank.
> As far as the percentage of water to take out, we go with 20%, not 50%. But, ours is only a 5 gallon tank. Guess it's up to each individual to how much.



When doing a WC with hoses, I add the conditioner to my tank after I remove water. On my 35 gallon I remove about 20 gallons, so I add 20 gallons worth of conditioner and then add water from the tap. There really is no other way to do it.

If you're doing WCs with buckets you can add the conditioner to the bucket, or the tank. I've done it both ways without a problem, I just add water a little bit slower if I added to the tank and not the bucket. 

I personally prefer larger water changes to get out any built up nitrate/organic material. But that's me, as I've found that's the only way to keep my nitrate at 0.


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

i think that's the wrong way round.


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Salt can have no nitrates at all.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

Leave a glass of tap water out over night and test it in the morning with your kit. It's possible your tap water has nitrates, as it IS odd to have that many so quickly.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

jentralala said:


> Leave a glass of tap water out over night and test it in the morning with your kit. It's possible your tap water has nitrates, as it IS odd to have that many so quickly.


Ok jentralala what would I do if it does where would I get the source of water.from or is there a way to sort it out???


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

Best bet would be to get lots of plants, esp floating to help lower them. I have nitrates in my tap (around 5-10ppm), and I've found that over time with lots of live plants I can get it to 0 pretty quick after a water change.

EDIT: You could also use RO/DI for half the water you replace during a WC. BUT, that's getting ahead of ourselves. Let's first see if you have nitrates in your tap ^___^


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

south Yorkshire ?
i think you should be able to contact your supplier and ask
about your water,they should be able to produce information
or just look up yours on line.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Jentralala when I get a glass of water do I add any conditioner or just leave it over night and test it with the nitrates solution straight away??


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

just plane water nothing added.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

willow said:


> south Yorkshire ?
> i think you should be able to contact your supplier and ask
> about your water,they should be able to produce information
> or just look up yours on line.


Yes Yorkshire born and bred haha that's a good idea willow


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## jentralala (Oct 5, 2012)

Willow I totally forgot about that xD You're right!


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

i only remembered coz you guys usually say it.:-D


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Morning peeps I have done the test on my water and it was at 30ppm from the tap now what


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

baz2126 said:


> Morning peeps I have done the test on my water and it was at 30ppm from the tap now what


I don't understand if it's already 30ppm from the tap how can it be 30ppm in the tank when conditioner is added do u think it will be better adding the conditioner to the water before putting into the tank instead of adding the water to the tank and then adding the conditioner to the tank????
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

As far as I am aware there isn't a tap water conditioner that will remove nitrates (could be wrong on that though) and if you wanted to reduce these you would need to use RO water, resin or similar. To be honest you are not in an unusual position with your nitrates in the UK, the legal limit being 50ppm (down here we are fortunate in that we are below 10) and the figure you have is not uncommon. The majority of freshwater species will easily tolerate a figure in this region and you only need to start worrying if you get towards 50ppm, if you had a saltwater setup this would be a greater cause for concern.

If you stock real plants these will help to control your levels (floating plants are very good at removing nitrates), don't over feed, don't over stock and just keep an eye on the nitrate levels and adjust your water change routine as necessary.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

RSVBiffer said:


> As far as I am aware there isn't a tap water conditioner that will remove nitrates (could be wrong on that though) and if you wanted to reduce these you would need to use RO water, resin or similar. To be honest you are not in an unusual position with your nitrates in the UK, the legal limit being 50ppm (down here we are fortunate in that we are below 10) and the figure you have is not uncommon. The majority of freshwater species will easily tolerate a figure in this region and you only need to start worrying if you get towards 50ppm, if you had a saltwater setup this would be a greater cause for concern.
> 
> If you stock real plants these will help to control your levels (floating plants are very good at removing nitrates), don't over feed, don't over stock and just keep an eye on the nitrate levels and adjust your water change routine as necessary.


Thank you rsvbiffer I was a little worried I've heard salt can get the nitrates down but can be bad on plants in the tank. I think I will have to invest in some more live plants. Thanks for the help much appreciated
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## RSVBiffer (Feb 3, 2014)

Think of the fun I used to have living in Sheffield with a marine tank in the days before RO units in the hobby ;-) ... But to be honest it was never really a problem.

Used to work in Aldwarke Lane


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Now that the nitrates are figured out, you're on your way to cycled having both ammonia and nitrite readings! Keep ammonia and nitrate under .5ppm until they zero out.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Flint said:


> Now that the nitrates are figured out, you're on your way to cycled having both ammonia and nitrite readings! Keep ammonia and nitrate under .5ppm until they zero out.


Cheers Flint how often should I do the tests to keep an eye on them???
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

Daily.


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

i'll send you some duck weed for free if you want it :-D


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

willow said:


> i'll send you some duck weed for free if you want it :-D


What is that willow????


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## Flint (Oct 22, 2013)

A floating, fast-growing plant. It will help keep your nitrates in check.


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## baz2126 (Mar 5, 2014)

Sounds good its upto u willow I'd really appreciate it would be kind of you since u don't even know me lol


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## willow (Sep 9, 2006)

if you send me a pm with your name and address
i'll get some sent off for you on monday :-D
you can google an image to see what it looks like.
i will say that once you have it,it spreads quickly :twisted:
i have it in my garden pond,also in my aquariums indoors
and yours will come from indoors :-D
it should travel well as we're in the same country….i tried to send some other folks
here some plants,however by the time they reached oversea they were rancid :-(


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## Hallyx (Jun 11, 2011)

Salt does nothing to diminish nitrate or nitrite. It can help protect a fish from brown blood disease aka nitrite poisoning (not nitrate).

An overdose of Prime can attenuate nitrite, according to reports I've seen. Seachem claims an 4x overdose of Prime can diminish nitrite and nitrate. Seachem claims a lot of things <sigh>


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