# 29 Gallon Saltwater Aquarium



## mikOll

1. *Tank size.* 29 Gallon. 30x12x18.

2. *What type of tank and how long has it been running?* FOWLR. 1 week.

3. *Water parameters.* No water parameters as of yet. Salinity is stable at 1.021 and 1.022. Temperature is stable at 78 degrees. Water was aired and filtered out before adding live rock and sand for a week. No chemicals or conditioners added. As of now, water will be changed 50% weekly until water parameters are stable. Will see from there. Possibly 10-20% water change weekly or bi-weekly.

4. *Set up.* Cultured Fiji live rock. 30 lbs. White sand. 30 lbs. Current set up is a Marineland Penguin Power Filter 350 (tube was shortened; tube length was near sand, now in the middle of the tank; afraid the filter might suck up the sand), Marineland Stealth Submersible Heater 200-watt with a 60 gallon Sea Clone Protein Skimmer. Lighting is an All Glass Aquarium 17-watt fluorescent 30" light bulb. Might upgrade to a 30 or 60-watt.

5. *Livestock.* None as of now. Maybe a month later. Would like 2 Ocellaris Clownfish, 1 Hippo Tang, 1 Blue Leg Hermit Crab, 1 Cleaner Shrimp, and 1 Sand Sifting Starfish.


Hi. I am new to this saltwater hobby and forum. I have been researching for quite some time and happened to stumble upon this site. Seems to be a very helpful site. I would like your inputs on my set up. Please ask questions and share useful information as I would like to see my tank grow. Thank you.


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## onefish2fish

what do you mean water was filtered then aired out? why such large water changes? infact i would wait until a diatom bloom happened and then do a small change. 
canister filters collect debris and detritus causing issues down the road unless kept clean frequently and i havnt heard the best things about the seaclone however i have no used one myself personally. its best to read online reviews and not skimp on a skimmer as it is one of the most important things for a saltwater fish tank IMO. 
start with a mixture of different snails and hermits if you wish. i personally dont like them because no matter how many empty shells you leave for them they always seems to kill a snail for their shell and usually decide they dont even want it. the sand shifter may need to be spot fed from time to time as in a 29 gallon it may run out of a food source. the hippo or any tang for that matter wont fit in a 29.
i suggest looking for a local reefing club as you can pick up information, equipment and meet new people.
welcome to the forum.


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## mikOll

I let the water sit there so it can decholrinate and then I poured the water into the tank and let the filter run. A 50% water change because I was told to do so to get rid of the debris on the rock and the sand. I was even told to scrub the rock to get rid of excess algae and remaining debris. What do you mean by diatom bloom? It's a hang on power filter because there's mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Sea Clone was recommended by a few fish shops, Petland, and Petco. They said a 60 gallon protein skimmer was more than enough for a 29 gallon. What would you suggest for my set up? Should I replace or add something? Thanks for your input.


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## wake49

Are you using Tap Water? If so, than I suggest to change all the water, and use RO/DI. I get mine at my LFS(Local Fish Shop) for $0.85/gallon. Use a quality Salt Mix; I use Instant Ocean. I have used cheaper brands and have had algae problems. The SeaClone is a good starter skimmer, I used it and I would only complaing about the air adjustment valve...it could be a little more accurate. You'l find yourself adjusting the air every day or so. And I don't suggest using a filter. If you don't clean it twice a week, you'll get algae blooms. It took me six months to get rid of mine, and incorporate a sump.


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## mikOll

Yes, I am using tap water. What is RO/DI? I am using the Petco salt mix that they recommended. Do you have a protein skimmer you would recommend as a starter besides the Sea Clone? As for a sump, I don't think I'll be investing in one due to the lack of space.


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## Pasfur

Wow. One or 2 times per month I find myself shaking my head in frustration at how difficult it is for a newcomer to this hobby to find quality advice. I am very glad you stumbled upon this site and asked these questions today, because you have some things completely messed up. Let me be the first to invite anyone from PetCo or Petland, who wishes to debate this topic publicly, to visit this thread.-)

Lets start with some basic concepts. In saltwater the long term goal is low Nitrate and stable alkalintiy, calcium, and pH readings. It does not matter what you intend to keep in the aquarium, be it corals, fish, or inverts, these parameters will impact the overall health of your system and have to be monitored for any sustained level of success. When selecting filtration, you must ask yourself how the filter you are using will impact these test results. The same concept applies to the depth of sand and design of your live rock structure. (pictures would be helpful)

Lets start with what you've done well. You chose to use live rock and sand. Live rock is fabulous for the overall stability of the tank. It introduces copepods and amphipods to the tank, which are great natural food sources, and help to seed the sand to become "live". The live rock also processes waste efficiently, breaking down organic acids into nitrogen gas, which leave the system naturally. The sand bed compliments the live rock, and provided you have between 4'' and 6'' depth, will effectively provide denitrification benefits to keep Nitrates low over the long term.

You also choose to use a protein skimmer, which is an important decision. The SeaClone models are adequate for a 29 gallon tank. I've used them myself on many 29 gallon tank applications. The skimmer will remove organic waste directly from the water, reducing the waste which is biologically processed by the live rock and sand. This helps to keep carbonates in your buffer system, as less acids are utilized biologically. These carbonates will help to keep calcium levels up, keeping alkinility more stable, and fixing pH at a level that is needed for marine fish. It all starts with the skimmer and the removal of organic acids.

Now, for the list of mistakes. There are a few, so lets discuss.

First, why did you decide to maintain a salinity at a level that does not naturally occur? 1.021 to 1.022 is not even close to natural seawater. Any claims you might have heard about helping to fight off parasites are misguided, as it has been shown that hyposalinity requires a salinity no higher than 1.016 (some say 1.013). You need to raise your display tank to 1.024 to 1.025 for long term health. 

Lets discuss your Penguin 350. This is a very effective biological filter. Unfortunately this does not consider the type of biological filtration being provided. The penguin units, as do most freshwater biological filters, creates a high oxygen environment to grow bacteria. These bacteria break down ammonia and nitrite, producing Nitrate as the end result. This is exactly opposite of what you want in a marine system. This filter is designed to INTENTIONALLY pump high volumns of NItrate into the aquarium. Intentionally????????? The concept makes no sense at all and has absolutely no use on a marine aquarium. You want low levels of nitrate, which are achieved by the natural system of live rock, live sand, and protein skimming that you have already created. You need to remove the Penguin 350 immiately. Now. Like right this second. Stop reading and go take this filter off of your tank.-)

Ok, now that you have that taken care of, lets talk about water changes. What are you trying to accomplish with the water changes? Again, this is a freshwater concept. Freshwater systems are designed to intentionally reduce carbonate and add Nitrates. We don't have this problem in a properly set up marine aquarium, so have very little need for water changes. We do small water changes monthly, say 10%, but this is only to replace trace elements that can not be tested with test kits. There are approxomately 178 of these trace elements and fish and corals tend to respond well to small monthly water changes. Frequent changes are unnecessary and only disturb the stable environment you've worked hard to create.

And finally, lets discuss livestock. You have a small tank. This requires fish that reach a small ADULT size. Most marine fish reach 75% of their adult size within the first year of their life. Without proper space to grow they will not develop properly. Their immune systems are compromised and they generally do not fight off infections well. You need to buy fish that stay 3'' or less in size. You should be thinking 3 to 5 fish in total. The Clownfish are a good choice. The Tang is a horrible choice. You should consider a small Goby and Flasher Wrasse to complete the setup.


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## mikOll

Wow! I am saddened by what Petco, Petland, and local fish shops have been telling me then. So I should raise my salinity level a little more and remove my power filter. I have not start changing the water and adding livestocks which makes me safe. So what should I do from here? What should I add? There will be no filtration since I took out the power filter which contains carbonate. Carbonate is important isn't it? What about water movement and oxygen if I have nothing creating bubbles? Do I add chemicals now? I go to www.drfostersmith.com and read their articles and this is what they recommended also. This task seems very daunting to me now. Do you have a guideline on how this should be approached? Great advice by the way. Totally different. What would you recommend? Thanks.


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## Pasfur

Don't confuse activated carbon and carbonates. 

Activated carbon is included in the Penguin, and when used in large quantities removes organic acids from the water. You have a protein skimmer which will produce this result, and do so much more efficiently. The small amount of carbon included inside the filter pads provides almost no benefit, and could even become biologically active, hurting water quality.

Carbonates is a generic term used to refer to the ions which provide buffering ability. Your alkalinity, basically. You need to test alkalinity every week, twice per week for newer tanks. A buffer powder is added to the water to replenish carbonates which are lost as acids eliminate carbonates from the water. (Good protein skimming helps to remove organic acids, cutting down on alkalinity shifts.) 

I use Kent Marine SuperBuffer DKH in my aquariums. I attempt to keep alkalinity between 8 and 12 DKH. I add the buffer as needed to achieve this result. In addition to a buffer, you need to add calcium. Calcium is the major buffering ion in seawater and is best added separately from a buffering powder. Almost every successful marine hobbyist is greatly concerned with Calcium additions. I personaly use Kent Marine Liquid Calcium in my reef and my FOWLR. I test for Calcium weekly and aim for levels between 400ppm and 460ppm. 

When testing for alkalinity and calcium, you can get a feel for when water changes need to increase. If your test results provide low alkalinity and high calcium, then you have depleted buffers other than calcium, and a water change is needed. I change 10% monthly as a prevenative to this issue.

Moving on, water flow is important, yes. Most of us use a power head or two inside the aquarium to provide water circulation. If you want, you can continue to use the Penguin for water movement only, by removing the filter pads and biowheels. This would also allow you to "polish" the water on occassion, by adding a bag of carbon to the power filter. Carbon is effective at removing the yellow tint from water that comes with age.

Finally, you need more research. I'm not talking about the fun type of research. I'm talking about the boring stuff. You need to understand the CHEMISTRY that takes place inside your aquarium. Here is a link to get you started:
Chemistry and the Aquarium


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## mikOll

So it looks like I will need a test kit to test the water once or twice per week. As to water, what are your procedures before you add the new water to the tank? By that, I mean do you use water conditioners to remove traces of elements in tap water? Or do you buy salt water ready from shops?

As to the power filter I have already installed, I have removed the filter cartridges and the bio wheel. I think you told someone the same exact thing. As of now, I am only using it for water movement. But I want to know what did you mean by adding a bag of carbon? Is it something I have to buy and make or can it be bought from a shop? Because I want the filter to keep the water crystal clear for viewing pleasures as well.


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## Pasfur

For water, you have options. You can buy RO water directly from the LFS, then add your own salt. Or you can purchase an RO unit for home and prepare your own water. I do not recommend buying premixed saltwater, as it is much less expensive to add your own salt.

Activated carbon can be purchased in bulk and then placed into a mesh bag (also available at your LFS). I just drop the bag into my sump. In your case, just place the bag into the power filter. Water will not be forced to flow thru the bag, but it does not have to. Carbon is effective even with passive water flow.


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## mikOll

Here's an update on the pictures. By the way, I removed the power filter and replaced it with a Sea Clone 100 gallon protein skimmer. Is there any way to add the activated carbon now?


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## flkeys21

mikOll said:


> Here's an update on the pictures. By the way, I removed the power filter and replaced it with a Sea Clone 100 gallon protein skimmer. Is there any way to add the activated carbon now?


 
hey what kind of lighting are you using?


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## mikOll

I am using the All Glass Aquarium 17 watt flourescent light. It came with the hood and housing.


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## wake49

What kind of tank are you planning on doing? Will it be Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) or Reef?

I see both the powerhead for the protein skimmer, and the wand for the filter (I assume its a canister). Are you running the filter empty? If so, there's a place to throw the carbon. Beware, you will have to clean out the carbon filter often if it is in a bag, or some type of filter material. Detritus will build up inside the bag (or filter pad), raising Nitrate levels. 

Are you doing a sump?


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## mikOll

I am doing a FOWLR tank. The powerhead is actually for the protein skimmer. I have no other powerhead because it's a SeaClone 100. It's so overrated that it's moving my sandbed. The wand is actually my 200 watt heater. It's by Marineland. I was looking at my protein skimmer the other day and that I might be able to to put the activated carbon inside the protein skimmer itself. Because there's this long tube that extends upwards. I'm not too sure. I'm going to need Pasfur's input on this one. I will not be doing a sump.


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## wake49

I personally wouldn't put the carbon into the protein skimmer, as that would inhibit bubble production.


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## wake49

Can you post a pic of the power filter you took off the unit?


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## mikOll

I don't have a power filter as I mentioned earlier. I replaced it with a protein skimmer instead. If you're wondering what that powerhead is, it's a Maxi Jet 1200 that came with the protein skimmer itself. The Maxi Jet 1200 is used to suck in water into the tube to create bubbles and clean water goes right back into the tank. But I will take a picture for you in case I'm confusing you.


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## Pasfur

I agree, I would not put activated carbon inside the protein skimmer. In my opinion, the best place for carbon inside your setup would be to run the power filter EMPTY and place a BAG of activated carbon inside. Do not force water to flow threw a carbon filter pad, just drop a bag of carbon inside the power filter chamber. 

I do this same thing in my 180 sump. A bag of carbon just lays on the bottom of the sump. It improves water clarity and only needs to be replaced every few months in this situation.


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## mikOll

So I guess I won't be using any activated carbon then because I returned the power filter because the protein skimmer replaced the spot where I had the filter. I was thinking. What do you think of the Visi Therm protein skimmer? It's really small and compact and it's rated up to 75 gallons I think. The SeaClone I have now is 100 gallons and is actually moving my sandbed, only the part where the water goes back into the tank.

About the livestocks. Is this too much for the tank? My tank is more of a community tank. Do inverts even count?
1 - 2 Clownfish
1 Royal Gramma
1 Firefish Goby
8 - 10 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
1 - 3 Cleaner Shrimp


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## wake49

Looks like a good stocking list. Inverts count, they are part of the bioload in a tank. They contribute to waste and use minerals sound in the water. For example, shrimp use iodine found naturally in seawater to molt. But I don't think that this looks overcrowded at all. Definitley add a pair of clowns. And I think you should add the Gramma last. The firefish might jump, I already had one jump from my tank, along with another type (bullet) goby. 

I haven't heard anything about the Visi-Therm, but I have used the Seaclone, and was happy with its production; I only upgraded to the superskimmer because I wanted a needle wheel skimmer. But the Seaclone 100 definitley did the job I needed it to do: skim waste.


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## Pasfur

mikOll said:


> What do you think of the Visi Therm protein skimmer? It's really small and compact and it's rated up to 75 gallons I think. The SeaClone I have now is 100 gallons and is actually moving my sandbed, only the part where the water goes back into the tank.
> 
> About the livestocks. Is this too much for the tank? My tank is more of a community tank. Do inverts even count?
> 1 - 2 Clownfish
> 1 Royal Gramma
> 1 Firefish Goby
> 8 - 10 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
> 1 - 3 Cleaner Shrimp


The Visi Therm is horrible. I am not joking. I can't believe this piece of junk is still sold in the pet shops, much less produced by the manufacturer. I find it insulting to the hobbyists that this skimmer even exists. The SKILTER 250 will outperform the Visi Therm, if that tells you how bad the Visi Therm is. It might make a good door stop or paper weight.

By the way, you need to IGNORE THE RATINGS on a protein skimmer. The ratings are set by the manufacturer in an attempt to gain your purchase. The SeaClone 100 is adequate for a 38 gallon FOWLR aquarium at best.

If the SeaClone is moving your sand bed, then I suggest replacing the power head. You could slow down the flow rate, and then use your existing power head for additional water movement.

The stocking list looks good to me.

By the way, have you set up your Quarantine aquarium yet?


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## mikOll

As I mentioned earlier, my tank will mainly be a community tank. I wanted to add a three striped damsel, but people said that damsels are aggressive and that they might nip at my community fishes fins. What are your thoughts on this? I also wanted to add a mandarin dragonet, but people said that they are difficult to care for. Do you think I should go for it or no? I'll list some others I had in mind. Can't think of them as for the moment.

As for the Quarantine Tank, I have not set one up yet because I will leave it the way my tank is for now until I come back in August. I'm just doing the set up and the cycle sort to say. For the moment, I'm just asking questions and researching on what I can stock. I will post pictures on my set up and progress in the specific thread as to how well or how bad I'm doing. Haha! More inputs please! Thank you!


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## Pasfur

mikOll said:


> As I mentioned earlier, my tank will mainly be a community tank. I wanted to add a three striped damsel, but people said that damsels are aggressive and that they might nip at my community fishes fins. What are your thoughts on this? I also wanted to add a mandarin dragonet, but people said that they are difficult to care for. Do you think I should go for it or no? I'll list some others I had in mind. Can't think of them as for the moment.


This is accurate information. The Three Stripe Damsel is extremely aggressive and would almost have to be kept by intself in your tank. The Mandarin Dragonet is extremely difficult to keep and is downright impossible to keep long term in aquariums under 75 to 125 gallons, preferably larger. This is a dietary issue that call for HUGE quantities of natural foods from the sand bed.


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## mikOll

Pasfur, you mentioned earlier about a Wrasse to complete my setup. What do you think about the Cleaner Wrasse? How is the care level of it? I was thinking one should be more than enough since it feeds off other fishes bacteria. Thanks.


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## mikOll

After a long day at work today, I came home to see that one of my clownfish's lower fins is ripped. I don't know why, but maybe it's from the humidity we've got because the temperature right now in the tank is 82 degrees. I wouldn't expect any aggression since I put them both in the tank at the same time. I also checked the parameters and they're pretty much the same since Sunday besides the temperature rise. Any solutions besides a chiller? They're very expensive the last time I checked.


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## onefish2fish

attach a fan


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## Pasfur

When I added a fan to my 54 reef the temperature dropped 4 degrees F. Inexpensive and simple.

I have mixed feelings about the Cleaner Wrasse. I have personally found them to be rather easy to keep, but this fish has received a lot of criticism for its difficulty of care, due to dietary concerns.


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## onefish2fish

and that fans on a controller so it only turns on when it needs to, just like my heater. :wink:


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## mikOll

Long story short. I just returned from Michigan for vacation. Lo' and behold I see a Blue Regal Tang in tank. I was happy and in shock at the same time. Apparently my uncle bought this for me while I was gone. I didn't want to tell him I couldn't keep it so I kept it until now. It has been in the tank for about 2 weeks now. It seemed fine when I came home and monitored its health. One morning all of a sudden the Tang is covered with Ich and now my two Clownfishes are too. Is there anything I can do to save them? The Clownfishes look fine meanwhile the Tang is not doing so great. Poor thing looks like it's hyperventilating. Please help! I hate LFS who just tries to sell their products without proper information. I have two Clownfishes which I bought from day 1 and never added anything then until I came home to a Tang. Help!


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## mikOll

By the way, I see these little clear white worm crawling along the tank glass. Are they a hazard? I see the Clownfishes eat them when they're spotted.


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## onefish2fish

worms? or something like this


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## mikOll

Nope. That's not the one. They're much smaller. They stick to the glass and they're clear in color. I can't get a picture of them since they're so tiny and barely have color.


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## onefish2fish

Live Rock Hitch Hikers


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## mikOll

I can't identify it but it looks like the picture where it states, "An Ophelidae swarmer releasing its payload." Worm Hitch Hikers About 75% down. It looks like the payload, not the worm itself. Clear and white.


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## aquakid

u should use at least o1 wpg for fowlr aquarium


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## Pasfur

aquakid said:


> u should use at least o1 wpg for fowlr aquarium


 Aquakid, please offer constructive comments on the threads that in some way pertain to the topic at hand.


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## mikOll

Bad news guys. I woke up to a dead Tang this morning. I used a net to net it out. They can still cut when they're dead right? Because of the fins? Any suggestions you guys would recommend? I have 2 Clowns, 1 Cleaner Shrimp, 5 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs. The Clownfishes seem to have caught Ich from the Tang. I can't tell about the inverts. My tank is probably Ich infested now huh?


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## Pasfur

You need to wait at least 90 days before adding additional livestock. At this point, I would personally begin feeding garlic enhanced foods 2 times per day. I personally use Formula Two Marine Pellets by Ocean Nutrition. Assuming the ich is not advanced, a garlic supplement alone is usually enough. I would also consider the purchase of a UV Sterilizer.

If you have a very advanced case of ich, that included labored breathing and constant scratching behaviors, then you will need to treat the fish. 

How advanced are the symptoms?

Oh yes, this is also a good time to remind you that you should be using a quarantine tank. For some reason this advice is overlooked by the beginner, but there is rarely an experienced hobbyist who would skip the quarantine process. For example, I currently have a Majestic Angelfish which has been in quarantine for 4 weeks. It is a beautiful, healthy fish. But I understand the value of a Q period.


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## mikOll

I am currently using the Formula One and Formula Two Marine Pellet by Ocean Nutrition. I also purchased turbo twist uv sterilizer by Coralife. Don't know if it's any good. I wish I purchased this earlier as I have lost a Tang and one of my Clownfish.

The symptoms were pretty bad I think. The Tang was covered with white spots and died in the tank. As for the Clown, it was too, but battled it longer than the Tang. Neither survived and now I am left with one Clownfish, 1 Cleaner Shrimp, and 5 Hermit Crabs.

I do have a Quarantine Tank set up as it is bare to the bone. For the two Clownfish I didn't quarantine them because there was no other fish in the tank. As for the Tang, I don't think my uncle quarantined it. I think he just tossed it in there and when I came back from my vacation, that was when things started to look ugly. Then I bought 1 Cleaner Shrimp and 5 Crabs hoping they would help the tank. They did for the first day or two, but the Tang got sick again. I just acclimate my inverts and put them in there directly. Is it the wrong method? Or should I put them in Quarantine also?

As of now, what should I be doing? Many help. Many thanks. :-?


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## Pasfur

At this point I would personally wait things out. I would go a full 90 days before adding any additional livestock. You want to get the parasites out of your system completely, and going 90 days without any signs of ich will provide you with this confidence. I know this sounds like a long time, but you will be thankful long term.


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## mikOll

This is depressing. I just noticed my shrimp shedding its skin. But now I see a few black spots on it. What does this mean? My temperature is also fluctuating back and forth from 80 to 86 due to the horrid weather we're having in the city. :-(


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## Pasfur

You shrimp behavior is normal. Don't worry.

You need to lower that temperature. I would add a small fan, blowing over your sump or across the water surface. This will drop the temperature below 80F, I would expect.


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