# Black molly maybe have ick



## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Im relatively new to fish keeping and didn't want to join forums because I have nothing to offer.
The reason why i choose to join is because i think my blackmolly has ick due to white spots on/near his fin.

I have an 100 liter freshwater tank with:
9 whiteclouds
5 neon tetra
5 glowlight tetra
1 black molly 
4 Dalmatian mollies
3 gold dust mollies
4 swordtails
4 snails.

I do weekly water change. Water parameters are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates and ph of 5
Water temperature is between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius.

I have photo's of the black molly but dont know how to post it

Thank you in advance and please move post if it's in the wrong place


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

To post a picture you can go to "Go Advanced" and click the paperclip icon in the tool box area. It will bring a pop-up window where you can browse for your picture and upload it. 

First off, your tank is WAY overstocked! According to AqAdvisor.com, your tank is 177% stocked! Also, Tetra's need warmer water around 24-26*C, the white clouds and mollies are fine in cooler waters. I suggest removing the Tetra's since that will be the easiest fix. If you do that, at least your tank will go down to 161% stocked which is better at least but still a lot of fish for that small of a tank.

Likely what happened is your fish is stressed out from too much fish and became sick with Ich. It's pretty common. If you can find it (I got mine from Wal-Mart) Quick Cure is fantastic, Malachite Green is very effective and quick. If not, try pretty much any Ich med from your petstores.

And no worries about supposedly having nothing to offer  Forums work both ways! We exist to help and be helped so don't fool yourself! These sites are a wealth of information and we are all privy to it whether we lurk, post, or help ^_^ Welcome to the Forum!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

This is a second hand tank and the previous owner said he held 150 guppies in the same tank.

I dont tank i have a New home for the tetras. Will it harm the fish if it stay like this?

I will get medication for ick tomorrow and treat the tank


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I have no other tank for the tetras (dont know how to edited post)


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## henningc (May 20, 2013)

Here is another treatment and it will not harm your fish, any of them. Over a 24 hour period slowly raise the temp to 82 f. Ick hates heat. Also, put one tbs of aquarium or solar salt in the tank to begin raising the temp. 12 hours later put in another tbs salt and after 48 hours add a 1/2 tbs of salt. Allow the tank to run like that for a total of five days and the ick will be gone. Ick has to drop off the fish to replicate and it falls to the bottom where salt levels are toxic to it. 

Once treatment is complete, slowly lower your temp to normal. When you do your water change add another 1/4 tbs salt and repeat the process for 2-3 weeks. In the meantime, find a new home for the tetras.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I added the salt and a ick medication but i really don't know if i can get another tank. Any alternatives?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It doesn't really look like Ich to me, looks more like natural coloring. Is it raised from the skin or more flat like?

And just because someone else does something, doesn't make it right for you to do it. To be a good fish keeper, you need to watch what's good for the fish, not what you want to happen. I don't mean to be harsh, but there is a responsible way to be keeping these fish, if kept inadequately for a long period of time; you end up with disease outbreaks (like Ich and others) and a couple of them will probably die as well. Obviously, we all have to start somewhere with our learning so just keep that in mind for the future.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Some areas were raised this morning. I will try my best to get another tank but i highly doubt it cause I'm only a student.

I had 40 fish in it. One black molly developed white spots (thought it was neutral and so it died). Two died due to swimming under filter and one swordtail died suddenly


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I understand, I'm a college student myself.

You don't need to get another tank if you can't afford it, you may be able to surrender some fish to a local store or PetCo if you've got one. Some will take fish and other's wont so you can call ahead to ask if you want. 

And are you sure they died because of the filter? Filters are designed specifically for our fish, not to kill them :-/ if you found them stuck to the filter then likely they died before hand, could be due to excessive ammonia when you first started it up again or something. You know about the Nitrogen Cycle, right?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Yip. My water parameters were perfect. 1 small white cloud were stuck at the back of the filter (between the glass and filter) and the black molly were swiming underneath the filter wen i moved the filter down it was just floating.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

*Lost 5 neon tetras and glowlight*

After using ich medication for 2 weeks the black molly died. I changed the water immediately and got a test kit..
Sunday night 4 neon tetras disappeared. The monday after college i opened my filter to find it in there.
I changed 50% water and cleaned the filter. And 20% today
Today i tested the ammonia and it was 0.91 ppm and ph was 8. I just lost a glowlight and one swordtail is hovering at the bottom of the tank.

What else can I do?
Help me asap!!! I dont like losing fish 
Thanks in advance

[sorry for double post]


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Do as many water changes as necessary to get that ammonia down asap. How many fish do you have left? And are they still showing signs of Ich?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

No ich signs. I do 20L water change everyday. I have 8 whiteclouds, 3 sword tails, 4 glowlight tetras, 4 Dalmatian mollies, 1 normal gold molly
1 dalmatian is rising to the top (i think it has swim bladder.)
2 swordtails and another dalmatian is just siting at the bottom.
On the scale ammonia is between 0 and 0.25ppm (according the colour)


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Do you have well water or municipal (city) water? pH is always at or around 8? Do you by chance know your GH(Hardness) and KH(Alkalinity)? Do you add salt to the water normally? If so, how much do you use per gallon?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Do you have well water or municipal (city) water? pH is always at or around 8? Do you by chance know your GH(Hardness) and KH(Alkalinity)? Do you add salt to the water normally? If so, how much do you use per gallon?


City water than i use conditioner. Ph was 8 today also. I only know the ammonia (which were 0ppm today) and ph. I don't add salt anymore. Only used it when i treated the tank for ich.

The fish look better today. Gained a bit colour, everyone swiming around except one Dalmatian molly that rise to the top


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Alright, I suggest you use some salt for preventative measures in your tank to help the mollies; they'll appreciate the use of salt. It's not the same thing as making a tank brackish for them, but it will help improve gill function and other organ functions. You can use 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water. Now when you use this level, you'll have to watch what you take out with water changes if you want to keep that level because then you have to add back in what you took out. Always dissolve salt before hand as well.

But having that salt in the tank all the time can help keep disease away, help keep fish less stressed and as I mentioned, help improve organ function as well which means they can fight off diseases as well.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

5 gallons =18.927liters...
Can i divide 100l by 19l? And i used to put the salt in the net and let it dissolve in the tank. Is that okay?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You'll be using 5.2 teaspoons, so just 5 teaspoons is fine to use. And yes, the net method is fine to use since it's fairly slow dissolving.

I also forgot I was going to mention that it may help the fish stop dying as well. It's not a cure, but it still may help them hopefully. Just make sure you change you water weekly to keep ammonia down since you still have a lot of fish for that tank, it may not seem like there are a lot of bodies in there, but mollies and swordtails are biiiiggg poopers and so the more poop they have, the bigger the bioload which means more ammonia can harm them if the cycle isn't up for the job.

Because you just had some fish die off, there are too many Beneficial Bacteria in your filter. Their colony grows to compensate for all the fish you have in there, when that bioload goes down then there isn't as much food for the BB to eat and so some of the BB will die off. This can cause a mini-cycle which means you may see ammonia in the next week or so while the BB catch up and reorganize themselves to maintain the proper amount for the fish you have in there now. Does that make sense to you?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Because you just had some fish die off, there are too many Beneficial Bacteria in your filter. Their colony grows to compensate for all the fish you have in there, when that bioload goes down then there isn't as much food for the BB to eat and so some of the BB will die off. This can cause a mini-cycle which means you may see ammonia in the next week or so while the BB catch up and reorganize themselves to maintain the proper amount for the fish you have in there now. Does that make sense to you?


Soort of. I was thinking of change the water when ever ammonia isn't 0ppm. Is too many beneficial bacteria a bad thing considering an overstock tank?
If more die will ammonia appear again?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Okay, I'm going to go with a really weird hypothetical analogy right now, bear with me lol.

Picture this: there are four dogs and four bowls of food, just enough for each of them. Dogs represent the Bacteria here and the food is your fish. Now when some of your fish die, a food bowl disappears. Because there is only enough for each dog, they cannot share and so one dog also has to die because he is not fed. It doesn't happen right away usually but for the aquarium, it's usually within a week. So now we're left with three bowls of food and three dogs, the amount is always the same ratio. So now picture someone giving back the fourth bowl, a dog will eventually find it and now there are four dogs again. The bacteria in your filter and tank will grow to fit the needs of your fish but it doesn't happen right away. 

Again, sorry for the strange analogy but it's what I could think of lol. Make more sense now? Your bacteria only grow to protect the fish you have in the tank, take away some fish and the extra bacteria die off which can cause an ammonia spike and a mini-cycle while the bacteria scramble around to figure out who's eating who's ammonia. And then when you add new fish, it takes time for the bacteria to multiply again to cover all the fish.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Im great with real life examples and that just did it for me. Thank you. Im glad i joined the forums


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Great! Glad I could help there ^_^


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Do i add salt daily or with every water change?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Not daily, you'd end up with a crap ton of salt if you did that. Once you add the initial dose, you only add whatever you took out. Say that you did a 20L change, you've just take out a fifth of the water content and also taken out a fifth of the salt content. Because you have 5 teaspoons total in the tank, you've essentially taken out one full teaspoon of salt with that change. So when you add back in those 20L, then you also add a teaspoon of salt to it. It can be a little annoying and tedious to keep it at that level, but it's worth it if you just pay attention


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I started today so ill add tomorrow when i change the water. The molly's gills look swollen and pink and one whitecloud are swimming at an angle


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

*Swimming at an angle*

Some whiteclouds are swiming off center. 2 Dalmatian molly are at the bottom of the tank (for 3 days now). And the rest appear normal.

Ammonia 0-0.1... (the colour of the test water is a little darker than 0ppm but not as dark as 0.25ppm)
Ph 8 
Temp 20 degrees Celsius


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

They could just be affected poorly from what happened before. Some fish will also swim according to where the light is coming from; livebearers are known for doing this, Endler's in specific; sun means up so they swim with their tops facing towards it wherever it is. Could be something like that that they're doing.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Just found out last night that the two Dalmatian mollies died. Does this mean my nitrogen cycle will have to start over because there's too much good bacteria? How long will it take for my tank to be fully cycled?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Not at all, the bacteria will just reduce with the numbers. Sorry about your fish though :-( Have you been doing your regular weekly water changes? If not, I suggest you do some deep cleaning in that tank with a gravel siphon; get as much as you can out of that gravel. That will help reduce Ich cysts if there are any left over; there shouldn't be but it can be sneaky sometimes.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I do weekly or sometimes when ammonia isnt 0ppm. I do siphon the gravel when I do water changes (about 1cm deep)


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Okay, how many inches of substrate do you hve? Is it just gravel? Mixture of something? If it's just gravel, you should be digging all the way into that to get what falls on bottom. Likely you're missing some stuff down there!

Even though your Ammonia may show zero, there are many other things that won't show up that can adversely affect your fish. One of them is TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) this includes ions, minerals, salts and metals. All can harm fish. So if you aren't doing a gravel cleaning deeply, then these can build up without you knowing and can stress out your fish which leads to disease of course.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Mostly 3 cm some areas at the back 4 cm (sorry for the different unit of measure). I have gravel only And next water change i will go all the way. 

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I don't mind, I can convert just as easy ^_^ And sounds good. Definitely let me know if it helps to do that. Hopefully!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Will do so tomorrow when I do water change. Their gills lok swollen and itnis white or pinkish red. Should I be worried?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It could be a sign of gill flukes possibly :-/ nasty critters. If you don't QT new fish or inverts, they can sneak in quite easily.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> It could be a sign of gill flukes possibly :-/ nasty critters. If you don't QT new fish or inverts, they can sneak in quite easily.


What is QT? And what is flukes


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

QT is quarantine; to keep separate to make sure that those fish are not ill from the store. It's a pretty important process to keeping a tank healthy.

And Gill Flukes is a parasitic disease, they live in the gill of the fish and make them red, sore, and swollen normally. If you can find PraziPro (Praziquantel), you can use that to treat them.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The first lot of fish that die was from a shop that wasn't as clean but i really wanted black mollies. And should I deal with it right now? Is it deadly?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It normally is deadly. Can you get some clear pictures of the fish? That will help. You can cup the fish for the pictures if they won't stay still/come up to get a picture. It may not be Gill Flukes, I just said it was a possibility.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Will do so tomorrow when I do a water change.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

While doing the water change the gills appeared normal (silver colour). The two Dalmatian mollies has brown spot on one side but it could be a color variation. If any physical symptoms appear ill try to photograph it.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

*Sorry for double post*

Since ammonia is 0ppm for a while now. And i do regular water changes and tank seems healthy. I was wondering if i can add anymore fish to my 100l tank. It seems too empty and dull.
I have 7 whiteclouds, 3 swordtails, gold molly, 2 Dalmatian mollies and 2 snails.

Im looking to give the whiteclouds back to a petshop if its allowed and only keep the rest.

If i can add any fish to the tank and not harm them i would like to get a center piece fish thats a bit different or bigger than the rest that will stand out. If possible? Would love some suggestions if it is possible.
Thank you in advance

Water condition
0ppm ammonia, ph of 8 and water at 20 degrees Celsius


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I would not add any fish until all your fish are healthy and not dying. If you do get more fish, you will want to quarantine them in some other tank for at least 2 weeks to make sure they aren't sick so your tank doesn't get sick again.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

How long do i wait before i add fish again? And i only have one tank so what do i do?

The first guy i went to has healthy set up Because each tank has its own filter or two


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Just because fish can look healthy at the store, doesn't mean they don't carry parasites or bacteria still. I really do urge you to quaratine at least two weeks. You can use anything from a 5.5 or 10 gallon tank on the floor or one of those plastic storage bins works too if they're new. Don't need a heater (unless you're in cold area) or filter for a QT, just keep them separate for 2 weeks to make sure they're healthy. Unless you want to go through this whole fiasco again....

Are your current fish still looking sick? Still pale?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

They look perfectly fine and i will see how much it cost and if i can get one. But il wait a month or two before i buy the fish.
Would like to know what i can get because like you said my tank is overstock?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Do you have all male swordtail and molly? Or mixed? You do know they can inbreed with each other right? All livebearer's can but they usually have dead fry or sterile fry as a result.

According to AQadvisor, this is what your tank looks like. I didn't know what filter you had so I just put one in that's rated for 50 gallons but I'm sure you have a smaller one:









Your tank is close to being fully stocked. I would get more White Clouds, bump them up to around 12-14, a bigger school usually looks better. You can also get 6-8 Bronze/Albino Corydoras to fill out the bottom section of your tank.

Then your tank will be:









The biggest thing is, you need to make sure you have enough filtration for all those fish. Livebearers are always very poopy so if you didn't have them and had some other type of fish, you could potentially put more fish in there but that's a little too late now


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I only have male swordtails (they all have the tail) of have 3 molly's of which i don't know their gender. 

I would really want to give the whiteclouds back cause the pet shop only suggested them as a start because they very hardy. Ill look at the bottom feeders and without the white clouds which "center piece" fish would work with the swordtails, mollies and corydoras (does it have to be that colours)?

[edit]
If i do return the whiteclouds how long do i wait for filtration to adjust before I add the new fish?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> According to AQadvisor, this is what your tank looks like. I didn't know what filter you had so I just put one in that's rated for 50 gallons but I'm sure you have a smaller one:


I have a DoPhin F1200 internal filter and a Boyu SF 102 but neither of the filters are there


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

If you replace the white clouds immediately then the filtration will be just fine.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

If my tank is overstocked. Is water changes the only thing i have to worry about?

Twice a week 25% and 30%


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

No, you may also have compatibility issues. Some fish don't like other fish who are rowdy and things like that. By increasing the fish you have in there, it can cause stress and lead to more disease which is why we normally will keep tanks at max capacity or understocked to keep the fish healthy. You can do what you want, but just know there are risks involved other than ammonia spikes.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

When i got home my daddy bought 2 paradise fish and 2 Angel fish with 4 brown cory. He said he likes the fish. What should I do? My tank is now overstocked and i was think two 25% water change would do me fine


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

O.O Oh god...Paradise fish are EXTREMELY aggressive!!! Angel fish are also agressive too especially when they start to pair up. If you've got two males of either of these fish, you're going to have a bloodbath on your hands!! If you can explain this to him, that'd be great. I know parent's don't always listen to their kids and stuff but I severely suggest the return of all those fish except the cory; those are fine if you want to keep them.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The plan was get 8 cory's but when i got from university i saw them. He said he bought male and female. And the only way he will listen to me is if he see it himself but i will try my best before the worst happen.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

:-( That's a shame. If they're from PetCo or PetSmart then likely they are not properly sexed. All the same, they are still extremely aggressive, I have a male at the moment myself and have seen their wrath. 

Angels will eat all fish smaller than their mouth, so the larger platy and molly's are fine but fish like Neons and White Clouds (I know you said you wanted to get rid of them) will be eaten easily when they are full grown and Angels do grow quickly. Also, a pair of Angels needs a minimum tank size of 110 liters so you're close but that's the MIN size, ideally they should be housed in 125-150 liters so your other fish will actually have a possible chance of living :-( Also baby Angels cannot be sexed until they are full grown and close to breeding age, so if you end up with two males; one male will definitely die or succumb to the more aggressive male which means it will become stressed and then sick and possibly death.

I know telling you won't help much, but just so you may be better prepared for the future at least.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I will try my best and show my daddy this post. We in South africa and its a pet shop here by us. For now is there anything i can do to help? Besides begging and trying to convince my daddt they unsafe together. I will also phone the petshop and say they fighting and ask of i can bring 1 of each back


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You can keep the two Angel's for the moment, it will still be a couple months before they're totally growing and getting feisty. The Paradise fish though, those are not compatible at all with the fish you have so try to return those quicker as they're aggressive practically from birth. Then once the Angel's get to age, you can return one or give away one and keep the other.

Do you have a lot of plants in your tank? Fake or real doesn't matter. The more plant decor you have, the better the chances of lowering fighting. 

These are live plants but this is my 29 gallon tank (110 liters) which is close to your tank size. They don't have to be live but see how planted it is? I have lots of fish in there and you can't see half of them, this helps to offset fighting and sparring and gives weaker fish the chance to rest when they need to.


Bigger tank (45 gallons) again, similar idea. Not as thickly planted as my 29 but something like this is what you're looking for. Again, don't need live plants, silk plants will do just fine.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

They are beautiful and i wish mine look as cool. I have no plants. Maybe i can give one to my friend or are they aggressive alone?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

They're more aggressive alone unfortunately. It's either a pair or nothing, but if they aren't a mated pair then they'll pretty much ignore each other and go after the other fish.

Thanks  I do recommend getting some nice tall silk plants if you can swing it eventually. It doesn't have to be all at once, but the Angel's will really appreciate the hiding space!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Ill try and explain this added expense after all it is his fault for buying them. I hate losing fish and always try my best. Still a learner after all. Hopefully everyone lives in peace


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, the fish hobby is anything but inexpensive and easy. Unfortunately with pet stores and other big corporate, they make it seem like you can just throw fish together and they'll be happy without anything in the tank :-/ Perhaps you can exchange the Paradisefish for some fake plants?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Yeah, the fish hobby is anything but inexpensive and easy. Unfortunately with pet stores and other big corporate, they make it seem like you can just throw fish together and they'll be happy without anything in the tank :-/ Perhaps you can exchange the Paradisefish for some fake plants?


The petshop dont want it back. They say it could of got disease in my tank. So now my daddy say i must leave the whiteclouds in and not flash them away. There's no fighting as yet. The molly and swordtails fins isn't as open as it was and the one paradise is hiding in the tank or behind the filter and one is in the barrels. The angels are swiiming as normal.

I will test ammonia and change the water and by next week my daddy wil buy fake plants.
I don't want to lose fish please. I feel stupid to allow this to happen. The tank was so perfect


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

....that's a silly store then :-( Maybe you have some people around where you live or somewhere you can place an ad to sell/give away the fish maybe? Friends or other acquaintances? 

Well, if you can't, just try to get those plants to give them as much hiding space as possible. Your tank is overstocked again now so just watch ammonia each week and do a water change as needed. You probably won't need to do twice weekly changes, but just change it at least every two weeks and an extra if ammonia is spiking. Testing for ammonia is the easiest way to find out if you need a water change 

And don't worry, you didn't technically "allow" it to happen, dad just thought it would be good to add new fish, I don't recall you saying that you had any say in the matter. We live and we learn


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I changed the water today for the first time after adding the fish. Wil test water daily for the next two weeks to see how the tank is doing. I didn't add any salt because i searched on google and found out that angels are sensitive to salt and the cory. Is that correct? And is there anything else i need to know?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

They are but at such a low dose like that, it won't hurt them at all. Cory's are not actually "scale-less" like people are led to believe, they actually have very thick plates on them that you can actually see. True scale-less fish are loaches and eels like Bichir's. But yes, higher dosages of salt will not be that good for the cory to sit in because their natural habit is extremely soft waters of the Amazon, void of all salts, calcium, magnesium.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I didnt add any when i did the water change, can i add 1 tbsp now?

The one dalmatian molly is just sitting at the bottom of the tank. Looks like its near death.
Can i expect more casualties and my water parameters are perfect at 0ppm ammonia. Ph of 8 temp 24 degrees Celsius


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yes, if you want to 

Likely it's not your water parameter's any more but the stress of the new fish possibly trying to dominate the old ones. Even though they may not be visibly picking on the other fish, fish do have their own system of communicating and a lot of it has to do with body language. So even if another fish approaches another, it could be in a display of dominance or rivalry. There's a lot to it, fish can also create sounds that we can't hear as well, it's amplified with their swimbladders. So all this can contribute to stress to the fishes and too much stress can sometimes equal death. Unfortunately, since you can't remove the other fish, this may happen.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Makes me sad. Hopefully the salt and plants help.

Since yesterday or last night one of my new paradise have been acting strange


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It may just be trying to find a place to hide. They dig sometimes or push things around if they're light enough like gravel.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Im worried. I will find plants soon


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Decide to get real plants.
I would like to know if i planted it correctly and is there any tips or hints on how to be successful

Thanks in advance


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh okay, nice! It's going to be a little while before they're nice and lush, but it's a good start  You've planted them all correctly. You may need to use a liquid fertilizer (not sure what's available to you and what isn't) for some of them but most of the plants you have here are easy plants to deal with. Anacharis (Elodea) is in the first pic, you may see some melting of the leaves (they become transparent) but otherwise, it should grow very quickly for you. Valisneria is the tall grass plant, another good fast growing and tall plant. And the third one looks like Rotala Indica, pretty normal and easy plant. It likely won't keep that pink tone to it if your lights aren't bright enough but no worries, it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the plant, it's still healthy if it's growing new green leaves. It's good to give plants some space between the stems, otherwise you end up blocking out the light to the bottom (when you eventually grow more plants from these) and that can hurt the plant. So roughly half an inch to an inch is good spacing technique. The two stem plants (Anacharis and Rotala) can be cut anywhere on the stem at any time to be propagated; you plant the top part you cut off and the former bottom part will grow out some more stems from the side if everything is working right!

The plants will help suck up nitrate as well which is a big factor in overstocked tanks ^_^ That's why people with heavily, thickly planted tanks can get away with more stocking (like my 29 that I showed you), because the plants are keeping the fish safe and the fish are in turn feeding the plants. Of course, not all plants grow as quickly to suck up ammonia and nitrate, but the ones you have should help out a little bit until you can propagate them and have more stems growing!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The owner of the pet shop said i don't need liquid fertiliser and i believe him because his a businessman. I will get some when i go. For now do i leave the tank as is and do regular water changes?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Do i need to vacuum my gravel? I want to do my first water change tomorrow after getting the plants monday. Please reply asap and thank you in advance.

I also want to know if i can cut the plants that are too long and replant them?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Innocent159 said:


> I also want to know if i can cut the plants that are too long and replant them?


I couldn't edit my post. Actual question i wanted to ask was if i cut the planta that are too lomg do i plant the cut section or the top part?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I already answered that, you keep the bottom planted and snip off the top and plant that too.

Pet stores are only in it for the business. You kill your plants and you go back to buy more, they make money. Eventually you will need a liquid fertilizer to keep your plants healthy and growing actively. Most stores only know the basics of fish care.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I want to know if it's true that the plant is healthy even though it has holes in it and brown
pictures:


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Holes mean that it's either Potassium or Phosphate deficient, using a liquid fert will help remedy that and the new growth will all be very healthy. Likely it wasn't kept under proper lights at the store (or even if it was, it wasn't cared for properly) and so it's a little deficient for the time being. Part of it will likely die off if it's brown, you can clip the stem and replant the healthy part of it. Make sure you put some space between your stems and don't plant them all in a bunch; that is a way that the bottoms will brown and die off because it's not getting enough light down there.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Understood, that bunch's roots were altogether so I didn't want to break it apart (thought the plant may die). I will seperate it tomorrow and cut off the bad part. Will it help?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Ah, actually, cutting or trimming the roots a bit is healthy when you put the plant in a new tank! It will actually stimulate growth of the roots which is what you want  And yes, separate and trim off the mushy or brown parts and that should help it.

Plants go through an acclimation period just like fish do, so some of them may not be able to acclimate to your water; just know that. Some may die off for good and others may melt a little and then bounce back once they are happy with your water and adjusted to it. So don't get discouraged if you kill a few plants in the process, live plants is a big step to take most of the time  There is a lot to it than meets the eye!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I trimmed the roots of some of the plants nw and cut the bunch into single roots (if that's correct) and seperated all. The shortest distance two plants are 3 cm and there's two plants are connected with one root (i left it so).
I feel stupid because you explained already but i still don't know if I'm correct


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It's okay, we all learn in different ways so I don't mind it. But yes, you are good with what you did. If they are part of the same stem, you can leave them or cut them, either is fine to do and won't hurt the plant  You don't have to do huge spaces between them, but like a 1cm space is just fine  You can move them further apart if you really want to, it won't hurt the plant either way if you want to at least 1cm or further apart, you just don't want them all planted in the same very place.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

thank you alot. As they grow and i cut them. I will fill in the spaces in between. I just want to know when i can aquascape the plants the way i want it?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yep! You can scape it now and just let them grow. It won't look like much until you actually get more plants or let these ones propagate. It's going to take a few months before you get anything substantial going. The 29 gallon I showed you, that's been up like that for a year and a half now and the scape has changed quite a bit but the current scape has been growing for 8 months. But I also bought a lot of plants to begin with so it was more full when I started compared to yours. I just don't want you expecting a tank like mine right off the bat unless you spent lots of money! You'll get a tank like mine with time though, nice lush and full of plants!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Lol. Aslong aa i get there im happy. I just want my tank runing perfectly and see the transformation from where i started


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Is it a problem if paradise hide most of the day. One is in the shipwreck and one between the plants? And the smaller snail haven't move for 2days?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It means that the fish is stressed out. Paradise fish are kind of like dogs in the fact that they're always up and around you and happy to see you mostly. If they aren't, then they're stressed out from something. Likely it's being bullied by the other Paradise and the Angelfish.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Both paradise are acting like that after i changed the water this morning. I checked the parameters. Ph stil 8 but ammonia is slightly darker than 0ppm bit not the colour of 0.25


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Okay, pH is fine. They both could be bullied by the Angelfish. Paradisefish are like any other gourami or betta; they need highly planted tanks like mine usually to be happiest. Or at the very least, have some floating plants (fake or real doesn't matter) so they can claim a territory up at the top. Floating Water Sprite is the best plant for this or Hornwort.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I will first see how successful this grow and get fertiliser before gettinf new plants. Also can i usr Valisneria to cover some areas at the top


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yes, the Val plant will grow nice and tall and bend at the water surface  I wouldn't float it though, just let it grow upwards.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I was thinking let ot float from left to right and right to left and than let all the rest (Anacharis and Rotala Indica) grow tall and touch it


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Better to float the anacharis, that does better. The vallisneria doesn't like to be floated much


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

We had 5 hour loadshedding. I changed the water and vaccum the gravel. Water temperature was between 23-24. I tested the water a few hours later. Ph was 8 and ammonia was a bit darker than 0ppm.
Now some of the white clouds has pink gills and swordtails has swollen pink gills and there top fin are down.
What do I do? Is daily water changes the only thing i can do?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Do their gills look like this? If so, they are healthy:









Fish don't always hold up their fins so the dorsal being down isn't an issue at all. Are you sure the Molly's have swollen gills? Don't suppose you can get pictures of top view and side?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Yes it does. .


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, those look like healthy gills to me.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

But i will still do twice a week water changes


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Okay.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I woke up to this:


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Have I suggested PraziPro to you before? Can't remember, this thread has gone on forever it seems. Even if it's not Gill Flukes, it still could be some sort of parasite. You can try it and see if it helps your fish out.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I was too late when i got the fish i caught the paradise biting it and when I took it out, there were other bte marks (red blood spots)


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I'm sorry.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Can I grow my plants around the internal and sponge filter. Would like to hide it as much as possible but not lose bacteria or clog the filter intake


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Sure. I'd go with the tall plants like Valisneria so that the small leaves won't be sucked off and clog the intake.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Is the intake so strong cause at the moment i have rotala around it and all the leaves are present. I have a 2cm gap around it


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

The intake usually isn't that strong unless you have a huge filter, but it's still easier for it to get clogged when the leaves do die off. They will eventually die off when they're starved of light when you get more and more and they grow tall. It's normal for bottom leaves to die off so don't worry. But, whatever you want to do is fine.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

What is this?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

How do i handle brown cory eggs? Is it safe to leave so (dont want fry)
No extra tank to take out fish


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Those look like Angel eggs. Cories lay on the bottom of the tank and usually other fish will eat them, you likely won't get fry ever. Even if they do hatch, the Paradise and Angel will eat them when they find them.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Angel eggs . I wish i could make it work. But im looking at doing a diy tank extension in the new year for fry. No one is bothering at the moment.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You could have two females, they'd both still lay eggs still so don't expect fry just yet


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

How do i know which is male eggs or if the eggs were fertilised?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

What do you mean? Eggs are neither male or female until the fry are born. Fertile eggs will become clear and infertile will become milky white or be eaten.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Oh I'm sorry I don't know much. I didn't even know it's eggs until i searched the internet.
Two has been eaten already


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I have:
1 female paradise
3 male swordtails
4 brown cory
2 female angelfish
7 whiteclouds

My tank is lightly planted (but growing nicely) and i have a sponge filter and an internal filter rated 1200l/h
And air house.

I would like to add 7 more zebra danios. Can my tank maintain the added load?
Tank is been running since June but only stable from 5 or 6 weeks ago


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Noooo, don't add any more fish unless it's cories. Zebra's are insanely active, they will stress out your paradise and angelfish to the max! Then, you'll end up with more sick fishes >.<


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Added 1 Albion cory and one with black spots
And one big tetra (very slow swimmer).
Am i fine?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The lfs said it is a tetra and is fine with angelfish and tetra


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, that's a red-eye Tetra. They're fine. But the issue you still have is that Tetras are schooling fish. ALL Tetras, ALL Danios, ALL Barbs, they're all schooling fish which means you HAVE to have at least 5 together in one tank to be happy. This is where your issue first came about; your tank is overstocked severely and now you have a single Tetra that will not do well because he doesn't have a school. Same goes for that spotted cory cat, cory cats will NOT school with other species of cory. You need to have all the same type of cory for them to be happy and healthy. I will not be surprised if your tank gets ich again. I don't mean to be harsh but you've basically disregarded everything I've told you. I will no longer help with your fish issues, I will give advice on plants if you need it but I don't want to waste my time with someone who won't/can't learn. I'm sorry.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Yeah, that's a red-eye Tetra. They're fine. But the issue you still have is that Tetras are schooling fish. ALL Tetras, ALL Danios, ALL Barbs, they're all schooling fish which means you HAVE to have at least 5 together in one tank to be happy. This is where your issue first came about; your tank is overstocked severely and now you have a single Tetra that will not do well because he doesn't have a school. Same goes for that spotted cory cat, cory cats will NOT school with other species of cory. You need to have all the same type of cory for them to be happy and healthy. I will not be surprised if your tank gets ich again. I don't mean to be harsh but you've basically disregarded everything I've told you. I will no longer help with your fish issues, I will give advice on plants if you need it but I don't want to waste my time with someone who won't/can't learn. I'm sorry.


I get you. No problem. Not my fault the lfs said i can buy albino cory cause i have brown cory and the tetra can be on their own. I will have to take it out and flash it as it already has silver underneath
You said i can buy cories and thats what i did. She gave a spotted one and an albino


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

That's why you need to do research first. No matter what, don't trust the pet store; they only want your money. Google things before you purchase.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> That's why you need to do research first. No matter what, don't trust the pet store; they only want your money. Google things before you purchase.


Thanks, sorry for wasting your time. I will research everything from now on. Gave the tetra to my friend that has tetras and now im stuck with the albino cory and spotted cory


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Hey, my Rotala Indica is losing color and have brown edges but the rest of my plants are nice and green. Should i just add liquid fertilizer? And can I just buy more low light plants or is there any i need to know?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Sure, liquid ferts are always good for stem plants. I dose my tanks twice a week, you may only need once a week though. Did you get a liquid fert? If so, what brand?

And yes, you can certainly buy all the plants you want! Just keep in mind that, that means you may need to dose more ferts with more plants. If you get Amazon Swords or Cryptocorynes, they'll need root tabs under them. Stem plants like liquid and rosette/carpet plants like the ones I just mentioned, they like root tabs. But both types will appreciate both types of ferts so the Swords will also like liquid ferts and the stem plants like your Rotala, will also like the root tabs too.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Sure, liquid ferts are always good for stem plants. I dose my tanks twice a week, you may only need once a week though. Did you get a liquid fert? If so, what brand?
> 
> And yes, you can certainly buy all the plants you want! Just keep in mind that, that means you may need to dose more ferts with more plants. If you get Amazon Swords or Cryptocorynes, they'll need root tabs under them. Stem plants like liquid and rosette/carpet plants like the ones I just mentioned, they like root tabs. But both types will appreciate both types of ferts so the Swords will also like liquid ferts and the stem plants like your Rotala, will also like the root tabs too.


Nothing yet. Will but friday. I saw a tetra branded liquid fertiliser. Anything specific i need to search for?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

If you can find SeaChem Flourish (Not Excel, that's different) Comprehensive, that will last you quite a while and it's more concentrated than Tetra is which means it's better for your plants. 1 Drop per gallon once a week is all you need, Tetra needs more and so you go through it quicker. API is okay too.

SeaChem also makes root tabs, API does too, I use both and they're both good.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I can get API liquid fertilers. Will see if they have the root tabs and how do i use it (the tabs)?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

The tabs have directions. I just put a couple tabs, you push them into the substrate and the package has directions for how far apart they should be. I use less than they recommend and just put them near the plants that need it most like Amazon Swords. I don't put it directly under the plant but about 4-6 inches away or in between plants works as well.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Sure, thanks man. Will get the api fertilizer and tabs and some plants. Posting pics friday.
Another question that bother me. Why does the plants roots break easily wen fish bite on the plants?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

The roots may be dead then if they break that easy. Roots should be nice and white/green, healthy looking, not brown or black (unless it's a Java Fern or African Fern, those ones are black and stringy looking). Roots will grow anywhere on the stem, not just under the gravel so if they're ones that are floating or just not in the gravel, I wouldn't worry about it.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> The roots may be dead then if they break that easy. Roots should be nice and white/green, healthy looking, not brown or black (unless it's a Java Fern or African Fern, those ones are black and stringy looking). Roots will grow anywhere on the stem, not just under the gravel so if they're ones that are floating or just not in the gravel, I wouldn't worry about it.


Roots are brown on most of the once that break of but im sure after fertilizer and tabs it would be nices and ferm. Do i continuously use fertilizer even after i get the desired look and amount of plants ?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah, keep dosing once a week. The plants are constantly feeding on the nutrients so if you take that away, they'll start to die again.

It may take a few weeks to a month before you start to see good results from the fertilizers, so be patient and stick with it ^_^


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Thanks for always helping me. Just a pity about the fish. But im going for an all guppies tank. Buy 7 friday. Had a bad experience after not listening to you. Thanks once again


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

I'm glad to help.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The screenshot is a list of what I'm planing to buy tomorrow. 
I would like to create an carpet infront and back of the sponge filter. Any suggestions? (dont want java fern) and im looking at Marsilea Minuta (any reason why not?)
Behind the air house i would like to add Anubias. (any reason why not?)

Vas. Growing nicely to cover the internal filter
Thanks in advance


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Ah, your vals are looking fantastic!! :-D

I would not do Minuta, it's a sort of easy plant but you still need to have lots of experience under your belt before you try it. Why not java fern or java moss? Both are fantastic and super easy. Anubias is great, I recommend it!

Did you want some sort of moss to grow on the filter or just a plant to go around it like the Rotala is?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

If it wont hurt the filter than on it will also work.
Im looking for a carpet to cover the substrate.
I would like to create a low grass feel and the java wont get me that effect


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Ah, try to find Microsword; it's easier than dwarf hairgrass, needs lots of root tabs but will work. Takes a little while to grow but it will get there eventually with some care and nurturing ^_^

And no, Java Moss won't hurt the filter, it may be a little difficult to clean but you just need to squish/squeeze gently the sponge every now and then. Don't put it on the internal filter though, let the Vals grow bigger and they'll cover it eventually.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Ah, try to find Microsword; it's easier than dwarf hairgrass, needs lots of root tabs but will work. Takes a little while to grow but it will get there eventually with some care and nurturing ^_^
> 
> And no, Java Moss won't hurt the filter, it may be a little difficult to clean but you just need to squish/squeeze gently the sponge every now and then. Don't put it on the internal filter though, let the Vals grow bigger and they'll cover it eventually.


Yeah the vals is thr only plant growing on the internal filter side. I dont like the stringy look of the java moss and will take it as a last resort. Microsword is also a bit too long but will take it over the java moss. Anything similar to Marsilea Minuta but easier to grow?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

It doesn't get that tall, only about 3-4 inches usually.

You can trim java moss to keep it compact, it's not that hard actually.

And you can try Hygrophila sp. Japan if you can find it, easier but it is more stringy than M. Minuta, but you could grow it for sure and just trim it to keep it smaller. You can try the M. Minuta but you'll just have to be vigilant with your fert dosing and replanting root tabs when needed every 3-5 months or so depending on the brand you get.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> It doesn't get that tall, only about 3-4 inches usually.
> 
> You can trim java moss to keep it compact, it's not that hard actually.
> 
> And you can try Hygrophila sp. Japan if you can find it, easier but it is more stringy than M. Minuta, but you could grow it for sure and just trim it to keep it smaller. You can try the M. Minuta but you'll just have to be vigilant with your fert dosing and replanting root tabs when needed every 3-5 months or so depending on the brand you get.


The problem i see with java moss and microsword is that when i clean the tank i might vacuum the carpet with it.
I need liquid fertiliser for the rotala so M. Minuta is out. Ill go with microsword and trim it to 0.5cm cause that's the effect i want. I think the java moss will be to thin and the white substrate will easily show


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Uhh, no, what I was saying is that M. Minuta NEEDS ferts. I meant replace the root tabs every 3-5 months, not dose liquid ferts every 3-5 months, that needs to be done weekly or even twice a week if your plants end up needing it.

Microsword won't take too kindly to being trimmed. There is nothing that stays half a centimeter. You can do a carpet with Riccia tied to a flat rock.

You don't vacuum in the middle of the grass when it's first starting off, it may come up a few times but you just replant it. Once it's established and roots are doing well, then you can vacuum lightly in the grass.

When I get home, I'll show you what my Java Moss looks like as it's growing on my decor.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The reason i want m. Minuta is because it grows nice tall with leaves. Where the java moss look too thin for my liking. But i will listen to you and get that


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I would like to see your java moss please


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh crud >.< I forgot to get a pic, sorry! Ended up being super busy! I'll try to remember today!!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I saw on youtube that they trim it very low to the substrate. Bow i would just like to see yours but im going with java moss


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

So, I apologize, I should have gotten more pictures and my java moss is not trimmed by any means but I just wanted to show you that it grows on ornaments very easily! It's easily trimmed as you saw as well, it would grow nicely over your sponge filter.

But here, you can barely see the ornament underneath except for the front where it hasn't covered just yet.


Here is another plant that I was talking about: Hydrocotyle sp. Japan. Not sure if you can get it in your area but it's great if you can. It's a creeping plant and can grow upwards, but you can trim it or weigh it down to keep it short.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I have my list of plants to get  and I'm runing diy co2 now and have fertiliser. Im adding more guppies and plants next month. Your tank look beautiful and that japen plant (i hope i get it).
I have a video of the airstone runing but cant post it. Thanks for your help. 
I will post as soon as i have new plants. At the moment i didn't add root tabs yet. The lfs said i should try diy co2 with the fertilizer first and come back after a month if i see no results


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Got 3 new plants and all the stores i went to doesnt have java moss. I would like to know if everything was planted correctly and all planta except the Anubias were planted in a bunch tied together. I would also like to know the name of the other two plants


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

The anubias looks good! The second pic is some sort of Cryptocoryne I think. The first, the one with larger leaves is some Ludwigia and then the Rotala.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Only found out today it's a crypto and it is planted correctly. Seeing it grow vertically with new green stem (if that's correct) and the fertiliser doesnt help with the brown spots because it doesnt contain phosphate. Do i have a problem even if new leaves are nice and green?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

How do i cut a rotten leaf off the cryto? Can i cut anywhere?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You can cut anywhere but preferably cut near the base because the stem will rot if you just cut the leaf off. Some plants will self-repair but most won't, so if they have brown spots then it's best to just cut off that leaf/stem/node and let it grow new leaves or stems. If the new leaf is green then you shouldn't have an issue, it might be from the tank it was in before is all. Crypts are also known for melting, so if they turn slightly translucent on the leaves, it's okay, it's just acclimating to your water.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

This is the plant. Is it worth leaving on the plant?

Is this a good sign or something bad?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

The slightly brown leaf? Meh, I'd just leave it on, it won't do any damage unless it's 50% dead/dying, and then you can cut it off.

And what's the gravel pic for? You have some mulm build up (poop and other debris make up mulm) but that's what gravel vacuum's are for ^_^


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> The slightly brown leaf? Meh, I'd just leave it on, it won't do any damage unless it's 50% dead/dying, and then you can cut it off.
> 
> And what's the gravel pic for? You have some mulm build up (poop and other debris make up mulm) but that's what gravel vacuum's are for ^_^


Lol no, there's air bubbles but i read online it's only a problem when the air bubbles smell like rotten egg when you pop it and it doesnt. Want to make sure if i should worry?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh, no, you don't have to worry. That's only if your substrate exceeds 3 inches in that spot and is tightly compact like sand is. Gravel usually doesn't have that issue unless you literally have 3-4 inches. What you have is normal.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I have 8 guppy fry so I'm just as sensitive as they are to anthing in the tank.
I have floating rotala in the breeder tank. What is the white line growing from it (can't explain) (not transparent)


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Guppy fry really aren't super sensitive, I also raise guppy fry. There is nothing wrong with your substrate, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Guppy fry really aren't super sensitive, I also raise guppy fry. There is nothing wrong with your substrate, it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do.


I meant in the previous post. "Floating Anacharis". Like a white string. If it is roots. How do I plant it?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh, I see you edited the post. It sounds like a root. Can you get a pic of it?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Oh, I see you edited the post. It sounds like a root. Can you get a pic of it?


Yes it is. How do i plant it if its coming from all the sides and not at the bottom?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Just plant the bottom and eventually the roots will form. Roots coming form the side is totally normal, especially if they're floating; the roots just go down from wherever they come from. As I mentioned before when we first started to talk about plants, I did mention that the roots will form anywhere on the stem and you can cut them just under the roots to make two separate stems if you wanted. Or just plant in the gravel and that root will eventually grow into the substrate too.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Some is in the gravel and ja i know that. But I dont know how to plant it (to have new plants). Can I leave it and when i take the breeder tank out than plant it again (any way)?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You should see the leaves facing upwards, that is usually the top and that isn't planted. But yeah, sometimes it's hard to tell what is the top, usually the top is bending towards the light and that's a good indication. If you can't find which is top and which is bottom just yet, let it float for a couple more weeks until it's clear which is top.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Thank you very much. Sorry for not listening the first time


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I've been searching crypto galleries and i cant seem to find a plant that look close to mine. Any other ideas of what it might be


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I know you said i mustnt speak about fish but i would like to add 5 or or so ottos to help with hair algae on plants. Please help me. Don't want to make the same mistake. Lfs said they would be fine


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Innocent159 said:


> I've been searching crypto galleries and i cant seem to find a plant that look close to mine. Any other ideas of what it might be


Try searching Crypt or Cryptocoryne instead, no one says Crypto 



Innocent159 said:


> I know you said i mustnt speak about fish but i would like to add 5 or or so ottos to help with hair algae on plants. Please help me. Don't want to make the same mistake. Lfs said they would be fine


And Oto's won't eat hair algae, they only eat soft green algae and Diatoms (brown algae). If you want to get rid of algae, reduce your lights to 6 hours daily (plants need 6 hours minimum) and manually remove the algae by either rubbing it off the leaves gently or pluck the leaves if the plant has enough leaves to spare.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> And Oto's won't eat hair algae, they only eat soft green algae and Diatoms (brown algae). If you want to get rid of algae, reduce your lights to 6 hours daily (plants need 6 hours minimum) and manually remove the algae by either rubbing it off the leaves gently or pluck the leaves if the plant has enough leaves to spare.


I had to pluck a few of my vas and throw away a rotala. And what if the tank is getting direct light only. Close the curtains after 6 hours would help?
Vas had black algae but only on one and rotala's hair algae were behind saving.
I also think I have green water. Not sure but my breeder net is green and tank water look greenish


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Having a tank in sunlight is a recipe for disaster with algae outbreaks.

Throw a blanket or big towel over the tank and keep lights out for 3 days, this will help kill off some algae. Then plants should have a growth spurt when they see light again. Don't worry about feeding fish, just let them be. This should help with greenwater too.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Last question... What about the diy co2 i have?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Did a 30% water change looks clearer. Should i start 3 day treatment or kust lower light duration for now?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Start 3 day black out first and then after that, keep lights to 6 hours maximum for about a week and that should help. Doing water changes helps too.

If you want to do your CO2 and figure that out then go ahead. Your Ancaharis (in that photo, the very right plant) may melt so be aware of that.

Also, the supposed "crypt" plant, does it look more like a stem plant? It's in this picture, right? Towards the back? It has a red stem? It looks more like a Hygrophilla species!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Start 3 day black out first and then after that, keep lights to 6 hours maximum for about a week and that should help. Doing water changes helps too.
> 
> If you want to do your CO2 and figure that out then go ahead. Your Ancaharis (in that photo, the very right plant) may melt so be aware of that.
> 
> Also, the supposed "crypt" plant, does it look more like a stem plant? It's in this picture, right? Towards the back? It has a red stem? It looks more like a Hygrophilla species!


Will start with the blackout. And run my air pump. I have the co2 running. Yes im looking to chuck out some of my smaller plants and get others but first java moss.
I made another thread and a member said its not crypt because it has a stem so he said its hydrophilic. But i replanted it and separate the stems because it was rotting


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I want to move my tank. Currently have 8 guppies and 9 guppy fry. What are need to knows? Wpuld you advise it. 
I have a spot that get far less direct sun. I want to put 60liters of the tank water in containers and the gravel and than move the tank. Is it dangerous for plants or fish?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Innocent159 said:


> Will start with the blackout. And run my air pump. I have the co2 running. Yes im looking to chuck out some of my smaller plants and get others but first java moss.
> I made another thread and a member said its not crypt because it has a stem so he said its hydrophilic. But i replanted it and separate the stems because it was rotting


Yes, run your air pump for sure, that will help.

And yeah, definitely a Hygrophila species. From your first pictures of it, it did look more like a Crypt since I didn't see the stem very well, but that's okay, it's still a good plant. And it's okay to separate the stems too, better for the plant.



Innocent159 said:


> I want to move my tank. Currently have 8 guppies and 9 guppy fry. What are need to knows? Wpuld you advise it.
> I have a spot that get far less direct sun. I want to put 60liters of the tank water in containers and the gravel and than move the tank. Is it dangerous for plants or fish?


I'm almost afraid to ask but...what happened to your other fish?

Yes, you can move your tank. 60 liters is plenty to keep for them. If you're strong enough, you can leave the gravel and plants inside of it and have your dad help you or something. But if you need to take the gravel out, that's okay too. Keep plants in a container with water while you move the tank, they don't need to be in sunlight or anything but just keep them moist while they're out of the tank (same goes for fish too haha!) and then just set it back up with old water and some new water. Plant it first, set up heater/filter first and add fish last after everything is all set. Make sure you let them float for a while if you add lots of new water, that way they won't be shocked if there is a temperature difference in the new water


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Got it! Thanks alot.
Uhm the new cory lost their eyes so i blamed the lfs and said they must quarantine all my fish and so i bough 8 guppies. I showed them your post and they agreed that tetra need to be in a school and so i told them one of the workers said i can buy the one.
Long story short some survived and got quarantined.
I will probably move the tank next month. Me and my dad will first build the frame and cupboard.

Any idea on nice substrate for better plant growth and roots? Want to use fertilizer sand and my old gravel on top


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh okay, well, glad the LFS came around a little even if it's just a small thing.

Fertilizer sand? Do you have something in mind for that?

You can use regular sand (some sands are unsafe so go with pet store sand). You can use Play Sand, I'm not sure what you have around you for stores but if you have some sort of home improvement store, they will likely have play sand or pool filter sand. The only issue with these sands is that you have to rinse them like there is no tomorrow, rinse, rinse, rinse! If you look up youtube videos on how to wash play sand for aquarium, you'll probably get some videos on how to do that. The good thing about sand meant for the aquarium is that it's usually fairly clean and only needs one rinse before it goes into the aquarium.

DO NOT BUY AFRICAN SAND or sand that boosts your pH level. Always read the package before you buy it so you don't buy the wrong thing. African Cichlid sand is meant to boost your pH waaaayyy up to 8.4 or so and if you have high pH already, it's not going to help you very much and will make it hard on your guppies. Guppies do like hard water and high pH levels, but not that high. So just make sure it just says Aquarium Sand.

I mix my sand and something called FloraMax, it says "Enhanced Substrate" but it doesn't have like plant fertilizer in it, it's just clay (as most enhanced substrates are) and is good for plant roots, but it doesn't fertilize plants. So don't get mixed up in thinking that enhanced substrate is better, it's nice to have but it's not necessarily better.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Any problem with finer gravel? The problem i have is my roots come easily lose but the plants gravel everything is fine.
One of the stores suggested a layer of some gravel (called it fertilers sand). This is when i went to go look for fertilers


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Nope, as long as you keep the substrate under 3 inches in any spot, you're all set! Nothing bad will happen  Though, it's still good to poke the gravel/move it around a bit every now and then if you don't run a gravel siphon through it to clean it. You might get some air bubbles but unless they smell absolutely terrible, there's nothing to worry about.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

And what do i need to create java moss carpet also how?

I was thinking to use the square tiles but i dont know where to get it. Any other way to plant moss?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Usually you tie it to something, so you can tie it to some medium-ish sized rocks and have it grow like that and trim when needed. You can use Craft Mesh from craft stores, that's what most of use. You can sandwich the moss between two sheets and have it grow up from there. You'll have to anchor the mesh down somehow with a large rock or something or wedge it in there somehow. Google moss carpet or moss wall and that should give you some ideas.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Oh i have the idea just need to know if i can use plastic once in the aquarium?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Plastic mesh, yes. Just not metal mesh. Also, make sure it's something new and hasn't been sprayed with chemicals. If it's regular craft mesh then you can use it but if it's something else then I'd give it some good rinses under some hot water if you can.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Plastic mesh, yes. Just not metal mesh. Also, make sure it's something new and hasn't been sprayed with chemicals. If it's regular craft mesh then you can use it but if it's something else then I'd give it some good rinses under some hot water if you can.


Ill first look at the aquarium shop if they have something like that before going to a craft shop. At least now I lnow what to look at


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

It has been a week now that the tank has been in the new location bur now i have a problem with little to no pearling.
Is that a problem?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You shouldn't have pearling unless you are running a full CO2 system. So no, no problem at all


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Qhen my tank were in the sun. Pearling happen daily with the vallisneria and rotala and anubias. But now only the anubias realise bubbles and its one or two. Not like a string of bubbles. 
I thought i need stronger light (i currently have 20watt T8 running 5 to 6 hours a day).

My new anubias leaf isn't as strong as the rest and is a bit discolor\brown


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Have you tried rubbing the leaf? It may just be brown algae on it.

It likely wasn't real pearling, it doesn't happen until you have CO2. What you saw was air being trapped under the plant and it releasing slowly, that happens pretty often sometimes. Some of my tanks do it too. But Anubias don't really pearl in the first place anyway.

Do you know the Kelvin rating of the bulb? That's the important part. The wattage tells me nothing. You can slowly increase your light time by an hour or half an hour a day if you like. You may get algae but you can find a nice balanced spot, probably around 8 hours is a good time for your plants. It's an experiment, your plants might like more or less, so you can try that. If you find you have more algae then you should cut back again or stay at that time.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Yeah im doing that now currently runing7 hours a day gor this week. No the leaf is brown and slightly brittle but maybe it gets stronger with time and growth. I don't think the kelvin rating was high due to the price of the light and at the time i didn't have plants. Im looking to get a 55 watt light with kelvin rating of 5500/5400 not sure.

At the bottom near the substrate green spot algea appeared today should i stay with 6 hours?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

*edit: some pictures


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

The Anubias look okay, how tight did you tie them to the wood? I would just leave the plants alone for now and let them grow some before fiddling with trimming and all. Ideally, when you get a new plant, you're supposed to leave it alone for 6 weeks. After the first 6 weeks, you can trim or move if needed and then leave alone for another 6 weeks and by then the plant has acclimated fully to your tank and you can do anything to it.

What kind of green algae is it? Is it hard to scrape off or soft like and come off easy? You're going to get algae no matter what you do and if you get a better light, that means more algae. The way to combat that is to have faster growing plants in the tank so they can out-compete the algae for food. Regardless, every fish keeper will get algae though, it's just natural. You will have to manually remove some of it. You can use an algae scrubber pad or your fingers if it's soft enough. Never use sponges meant for the kitchen though!! They have chemicals in them which can harm your fish!

The val's look great though!!


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> The Anubias look okay, how tight did you tie them to the wood? I would just leave the plants alone for now and let them grow some before fiddling with trimming and all. Ideally, when you get a new plant, you're supposed to leave it alone for 6 weeks. After the first 6 weeks, you can trim or move if needed and then leave alone for another 6 weeks and by then the plant has acclimated fully to your tank and you can do anything to it.
> 
> What kind of green algae is it? Is it hard to scrape off or soft like and come off easy? You're going to get algae no matter what you do and if you get a better light, that means more algae. The way to combat that is to have faster growing plants in the tank so they can out-compete the algae for food. Regardless, every fish keeper will get algae though, it's just natural. You will have to manually remove some of it. You can use an algae scrubber pad or your fingers if it's soft enough. Never use sponges meant for the kitchen though!! They have chemicals in them which can harm your fish!
> 
> The val's look great though!!


They losely tied and the roots growing nicly into cracks and creeks of the driftwood. Only problem is I moved the driftwood to the middle of the tank so i think that is the problem. I will leave all my plants for 2 months.

For the algae i use a kitchen sponge but it is without chemicals. Been using the same sponge for 5/6 months. Any suggestions on lighting (can I go with 8 hours)? (algae is soft).


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Even if the sponge doesn't say it has chemicals in it, they all do, it's to help with keeping away mildew and mold growth on them.

For lighting, if you want to go 8 hours that's fine, you just may need to remove a little more algae when it comes up. If you want better growth, go with a bulb that is Daylight. The kelvin rating should be 5,500 or better; 6,500K is true 'daylight' light. Again, you'll have a little more algae until you can find a good balance with hours and plants.

I doubt that moving the driftwood caused any harm to the Anubias. As long as the plant is growing new roots and leaves like you say, you're in good shape! Some old leaves may fall off/die, but that's normal.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Okay. Im looking on getting 5500k and run it 6hours. I was looking for the 6500k but couldnt get T8 fitting.
I'll throw the sponges away and get a scrub since it's not that expensive. Thank you.

I ran this week 7 hours and got little algea. Will run one more week 7 hours just to see


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

My leaves are turning yellow than brown. Is it the light intensity?

I dose fertilizer every 2nd week (1drop after water change (as instructed)) but my Hygrophila species are turning from yellow to brown (one of the plants) and the new leaves turned all brown.


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

You should be dosing every week, not every other. I would even bump it up to twice a week if the plants aren't doing as well. So dose on Saturday and Wednesday or something like that (those are just the days I do ). It doesn't have to be after a water change either, wasn't sure if that's what you thought or not, it can be any time.

But yes, going yellow to brown means a nutrient deficiency of some type. Bumping up ferts is the first step, if that doesn't help then you can look at getting a new light. How long have you had your light? Ideally, you're supposed to replace Fluorescent's after 6 months since they dim and lose intensity; you might not notice but the plants will.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Can ve 3 months but the light itself is not intensive and i will start dosing twice a week and get a new bulb soon


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Got the aqua-glo t8 20w and it's rated 18000 K. The lfs said that's not accurate and its more like 8000 K. He also suggested 8 to 10 hours light periods and 2 Chinese algae eaters. Before making hasty decisions i want to ask you if what he said is correct and is it safe to get the fish?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

8,000K is going to get you a lot of algae so just be aware of that. Stick to 6 hour period for now and increase if you need to. You can also split up the time if you like too, say 3 hours in the morning and 3 at night or whatever you want.

Chinese Algae Eaters are absolutely terrible, they don't actually eat algae and will kill your fish as they age. They're very good at sucking the slime coat off your fish! Instead, if you absolutely need an algae eater, go with Otocinclus. They're sensitive so you need to absolutely make sure that your water parameters (ammonia and whatnot) are perfect or close to perfect; do you water changes weekly and all that jazz. Otherwise, they'll just die. They also only eat soft algae's like green and brown (diatom) algae. So yeah, don't get the CAE's, they also get too big for your tank.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> 8,000K is going to get you a lot of algae so just be aware of that. Stick to 6 hour period for now and increase if you need to. You can also split up the time if you like too, say 3 hours in the morning and 3 at night or whatever you want.
> 
> Chinese Algae Eaters are absolutely terrible, they don't actually eat algae and will kill your fish as they age. They're very good at sucking the slime coat off your fish! Instead, if you absolutely need an algae eater, go with Otocinclus. They're sensitive so you need to absolutely make sure that your water parameters (ammonia and whatnot) are perfect or close to perfect; do you water changes weekly and all that jazz. Otherwise, they'll just die. They also only eat soft algae's like green and brown (diatom) algae. So yeah, don't get the CAE's, they also get too big for your tank.


I would like to add no fish as i would like to have 30 to 40 guppies. Ill start with a spilt up 6 hour light period as there are already bits of green algae by the substrate.
Can strong lighting cause green water or hair-like algea? Im worried about this 18000K Kelvin rating


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Oh yes, there are many types of algae. Green Water, Green Spot, Soft Green, Hair algae, Black Beard algae, Cyanobacteria (Blue-Green Algae), staghorn algae, and so many more. The more light you have and the more nutrients are in the water and the longer the light is on, the more algae you get. The way you combat this is to have fast growing plants like Water Wisteria and floater plants like Dwarf Water Lettuce or Salvinia Minima. Or, to dose an Algalcide like SeaChem's Excel or Accu-clear will get rid of green water. Manual removal is really the biggest thing, sucks, but that's what you have to do to keep plants. I do it too.

You can get a Nerite snail if you have them around, they're fantastic at cleaning soft algae's like Diatoms and soft green algae too. One will clean a 10 (20 liter) gallon in just a day or two! So for your 100 liter, you could keep 3-4 and they'd be pretty happy in there  Don't get Apple (Spixi snails) snail, they eat plants! Mystery snails are okay but they prefer to eat prepared foods like cucumber, zucchini, or algae wafers versus eating actual algae.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I have none of that plants and had to throw out one of my species cause all the leaves were covered in hairy algea. I put my rotala indica under the current of my filter and the Val i pluck when it get hairy algea or black spots.
My anubias are developing like white spots (3cm diameter) but it looks healthy and i get new roots and 2 new leaves.
I forgot to turn off the light today and it was on for 9 hours would that have a negative effect on the tank?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Won't have a negative effect but may fuel algae is all.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Nerite snails are banned in our country and alot of other imported snails. What else can i do? With the 8 hours of daylight and 2 weeks of fertiliser. I see little algae on substrate. I'm just worried about my slow growing plants and some other plants i want to get in a later stage


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

What snails do you have available then?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

The only snail i ever saw (at multiple fish stores i visit) is the mystery snail and i don't want it again. They got out of their shells..


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Uhhh yeah, Mysteries don't do that lol, must have been something else then? Mysteries are only out of their shells if they've been pulled out and killed by a fish. Otherwise, no snail actually does that, I wonder what it is that you saw?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Uhhh yeah, Mysteries don't do that lol, must have been something else then? Mysteries are only out of their shells if they've been pulled out and killed by a fish. Otherwise, no snail actually does that, I wonder what it is that you saw?


Probably got killed. I just got empty shells. I had aggressive fish at the time. So i can buy 2 mysteries? Won't they eat my plants and do they eat algae?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Ah, I see, yeah, that's probably just it then. 

Yes, two Mysteries is fine. Mysteries won't eat plants, they will eat dead plant matter so they may cruise along your plants and you'll see them munching but don't worry, I gaurantee that they aren't eating plants, they eat the microfilm and algae on top as well as the dead particles! They do eat the soft algaes (there really isn't anything that eats hard algae anyway) but they will need supplements time to time. Your fish will love you if you throw in some blanched cucumber or zucchini time to time! Not all fish should eat this (for example, betta's or Gouramis) but livebearers and tetras and cories are mostly omnivores so they eat everything ^_^ fresh veggies are good for them! They may not find the cucumber the first time so don't worry about that, just take it out after a day and try again later. Try to put it in a similar spot each time so that they know where to find it :-D


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

lilnaugrim said:


> Ah, I see, yeah, that's probably just it then.
> 
> Yes, two Mysteries is fine. Mysteries won't eat plants, they will eat dead plant matter so they may cruise along your plants and you'll see them munching but don't worry, I gaurantee that they aren't eating plants, they eat the microfilm and algae on top as well as the dead particles! They do eat the soft algaes (there really isn't anything that eats hard algae anyway) but they will need supplements time to time. Your fish will love you if you throw in some blanched cucumber or zucchini time to time! Not all fish should eat this (for example, betta's or Gouramis) but livebearers and tetras and cories are mostly omnivores so they eat everything ^_^ fresh veggies are good for them! They may not find the cucumber the first time so don't worry about that, just take it out after a day and try again later. Try to put it in a similar spot each time so that they know where to find it :-D


Cucumber and fresh veggies we buy for us???? And yes they know where their feeding spot are. As soon as i open the lid they come to the corner where I feed them


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Yes! Just a slice, you don't need a whole heck of a lot. And I mean because the cucumber will sink if you blanch it (partially cook it but let it cool before serving) or you can weight it down with a rock or fork. That way, the snails will know where to go for feeding when you feed the veggies.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Okay thank you. Ill try feeding veggies after i get the snails. How often do they need veggies? And do i cook it up first? (all the vegetable i will feed them)? Can it be any veggies? Are there any tips or precaution?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

They not eating the cucumber?


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## lilnaugrim (Mar 27, 2013)

Blanch the veggies, that means to put into a container with water, cover halfway and microwave for about a minute. Water will be very hot, let cool for abut 15 minutes or about 10 if you take it out of water and toss water out. If you can do it once a week then that's good, twice a week if you don't have much algae for them.

Most veggies, stick to solid ones like Zucchini, Yellow Squash, Cucumber, lettuce, etc. Stay away from watery ones like tomatoes.

Did you just put some in? As I mentioned before, they might not find it the first day at all, you need to let them find it first and that might take a couple tries. If cucumber slice is getting kind of gross before 24 hours, just take it out and toss. Try again another day, keep putting it in the same spot or near the same spot. It's going to take more than just an hour for them to find it, be patient.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Yeah. After about hour and half. Everyone were munching on it. Will try again once i get snails but my guppy loved it.


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

Can a plant survive without leaves? Only as a new green leaf developing (very small)


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

I want to cut both my anubias nana in two and want to know if it will survive with only one leaf?


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## Innocent159 (Jul 16, 2015)

How do you clean java moss from this:? And driftwood. Tried gravel vacuum but doesn't work


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