# 37 gallon stocking suggestion



## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

Hey guys, i have 37 gallon tank and i dont know what to do wiht it. Can you give me some cool stocking suggestions. Im open to all suggestions


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## Sj45 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hell no, I can't stand anyone w/ a 37g tank. I've been looking for one for months. No I'm just kidding...but I'm not good at "decorating".


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## Tyyrlym (Jun 1, 2008)

Tiger Barb species tank.


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## Fishin Pole (Feb 17, 2009)

for a 37?..........Hmmm, 8 hatchet fish, 10 to 12 tetras of some kind, 6 cories, and some kind of gourami.........Thought you might like this list for your 37.........Its just a thought........


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Threadfin rainbows,pristella tetras,kuhli loaches.8)


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## jeaninel (Aug 24, 2007)

I have one Angelfish, Harlequin Rasboras and Sterbai cories in my 37 gallon.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

I think i have a rough idea of what i am going to get. I am going to have some dwarf chiclids in the tank. I also want some chocolate gouramis and maybe a school of rasboars. What do you think any othet suggestions


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## watts300 (Feb 21, 2009)

I just purchased a Siamese algae eater that I like a lot. 
He's the longest of my other fish so he stands out quite a bit. In my reading, I learned that they're amazingly efficient and gentle (on plants) algae eaters.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

Dont siamese algae eaters get to big, and aggresive, and what is yours guy thought on my ideas


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## catfishtabbi (Nov 10, 2008)

Hi jimmy , Just seen your post . I think the rasboras are too aggressive for the chocolate gourami and really the chocolates i kept liked the lower third of the tamk much like the dwarf cichlids so i doubt it will work. Chocolates are extremely difficult to keep. The cichlids go well in mopst tanks as long as water parameters allow for it, they do like hte floor to themselves. If your basing your decision on stats that say chocos like 7ph they're wrong, thye like it in the low 6's and breed in high 5's. Whats more they can be scared to death. Perhaps a sprcies tank for the chocos.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> I think i have a rough idea of what i am going to get. I am going to have some dwarf chiclids in the tank. I also want some chocolate gouramis and maybe a school of rasboars. What do you think any othet suggestions


I don't know your level of experience, so pardon me if you already know this. The chocolate gouramis are very sensitive fish, I had some several years ago. They must have soft acidic water and much warmer temperatures (above 80F up to 86F); at cooler temperatures or in less suitable water they are very prone to bacteria and skin parasites (note below). Rasbora would be very good tankmates, especially the rarer Rasbora espei, as would the Croaking gourami (Trichopsis vittatus) and the dwarf or pygmy croaking gourami (Trichopsis pumilus). For bottom dwellers, the horseface loach (Acanthopsis choirorhynchus) is ideal as it is quiet (frequently buries itself in the substrate). Dwarf loaches (Botia sidthimunki) would suit the tank, but might be too active a swimmer for the chocolate gouramis who like things quiet. All of the afore-mentioned would thrive in a tank with soft water, pH 6-6.8, around 82F and with a fine sandy bottom. Plants such as Hygrophila difformis (wisteria) and floating fern (Ceratopteris) are perfect and very easy, plus any of the crypts (Cryptocoryne species) that would thrive in such conditions. The floating plants will shade the tank from the light which also suits the chocolate gouramis.

This was almost the setup I had and it worked well for several years. The chocolate gouramis came down with velvet once, I was told it was because the tank was not warm enough (around 79-80 I think), and that was difficult to cure, but I finally did. They are very prone to disease if not kept in very particular water. Make sure the tank is well aged (several months) before adding them, and regular partial water changes are even more critical. 

I wouldn't recommend cichlids in this setup. The dwarf cichlids from South America prefer less warm water than what the gouramis must have, and keeping any fish in warmer water than it is biologically programmed for is not advisable because it weakens the fish's resistance and can lead to disease and death in some cases. Corys and many other catfish cannot stand water this warm; I lost all the corys in one tank when the heater malfunctioned and the temp went up to 85F.


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## catfishtabbi (Nov 10, 2008)

jimmyhoye said:


> Dont siamese algae eaters get to big, and aggresive, and what is yours guy thought on my ideas


YES and they're rather unattractive. With your good taste in gouramis, cichlids and rasboras i doubt that the SAE is for you.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

since i am being told basically from what i interpreted the posts as that i would probably want to pick either the chocolate gouramis or dwarf chiclids and not to mix them, but the rasboaras are fine both ways. I would rather have the dwarf chliclids over the gouramis so i am gonnna have them and the rasboras. Would i be able to have pearl gouramis with the rasboras and dwarf cichlids. Also is the horseface loach also know as the kuhli loach. And with a small school of hong kong plecos/hillstream loaches work in this setup.


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## catfishtabbi (Nov 10, 2008)

Yes, Yes Yes. Gouramis and dwarf cichlid and rasboras; i like the pinkish ones, sounds perfect. I'm working toward dwarf gouramis (which i have 6 altogether), rainbows and borelli cichlids myself. I also have small schools of many different tetras and a hilllstream loach and yo-yo loaches... few others. Good luck getting them all ,it will be a nice tank.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

thanks frall the help, the tank should be great


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> since i am being told basically from what i interpreted the posts as that i would probably want to pick either the chocolate gouramis or dwarf chiclids and not to mix them, but the rasboaras are fine both ways. I would rather have the dwarf chliclids over the gouramis so i am gonnna have them and the rasboras. Would i be able to have pearl gouramis with the rasboras and dwarf cichlids. Also is the horseface loach also know as the kuhli loach. And with a small school of hong kong plecos/hillstream loaches work in this setup.


No, the kuhli loach is very different (always makes me thin of a snake); do a Google search for the horseface loach (Acanthopsis choirorhynchus) and you'll see what it's like. I don't know how the hillstream loaches behave, I have only recently seen them in stores but never kept them, but from catfishtabbi's post I would conclude they are OK in community tanks.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

I looked up the horseface loach but im ont to interested in it. But i do need osme other help. I am planning on using sand as my substrate for this tank and im new to sand substrate, can you guys give me some clues on what sand to use nd how to care for it


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> I looked up the horseface loach but im ont to interested in it. But i do need osme other help. I am planning on using sand as my substrate for this tank and im new to sand substrate, can you guys give me some clues on what sand to use nd how to care for it


There is a thread entitled "sand" started on 03-12-2009 in the Aquariumn Plants section of this forum that you might want to read through, as several members offered comments. To save time, I'll copy my last response below.

I quote from Peter Hiscock's book "Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants" because he says it so well [page 43]. "Sand can cause problems if used as the sole substrate in an aquarium. Over time it will compact, preventing water movement and causing anaerobic conditions, which result in stagnation and the release of toxins. Stirring the sand gently and regularly will prevent this problem, although most plants do not appreciate constant disturbance. ... When using sand, be sure to choose a completely inert form. Many commercial sands contain traces of lime or calcareous materials, although most of the products sold by aquatic retailers are safe."

I'm assuming that you are somewhat familiar with the biological processes in an aquarium termed the nitrogen cycle, by which nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite, and nitrobacter bacteria convert nitrite into nitrate. This is an aerobic process, which means the bacteria use oxygen to perform these tasks. In the substrate, oxygen also needs to be present, and oxygen is releasd by plant roots. A substrate rich in organic material (waste and nutrient-rich additives) naturally contains large numbers of bacteria that break down these organics into nutrients that the plant roots can use. The oxygen is quickly used up in this process, and the substrate becomes anaerobic; different types of bacteria form which do not need large quantities of oxygen or which create their own. These anaerobic bacteria release toxic gases like hydrogen sulphide. As the bacteria use nitrates, nitrogen is released. As long as the substrate is not too fine and compact the combination of slow-moving current and the release of oxygen by the plant roots should prevent the majority of the substrate from becoming anaerobic. But if the substrate compacts, it will turn anaerobic, causing plant roots to rot and when released into the water cause problems for fish.

Just as with gravel you "stir it up" a bit with the syphon during the weekly water change, so you must with sand, but you can't use the syphon as watts300 said because it sucks up the sand. You can use your fingers to gently work through most of the sand to ensure it is not compacting, being careful not to disturb the plant roots. As I've never used sand myself, I can't say how much disturbance you need to do to ensure a healthy substrate. Others who have sand should be able to advise on that point. There will be pockets of anaerobic conditions in the substrate, whether sand or gravel, but they must never be allowed to expand to the point where they cause pollution as I've tried to explain. It seems to be a bit trickier to ensure a healthy substrate with sand than gravel.

As to type, anything inert will do. Some recommend play sand from Home Depot. Just don't use marine sand as it is intended to raise the pH as you need for saltwater fish, and you don't want that in a freshwater plant tank.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

Alright i am not doing sand because this is in my bedroom and i dont want a huge mess lol. I also had to go with a 30 gallon instead of a 37. What are some good live plants to go in a 30 gallon tank. I will also have rock build up in my tank.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> Alright i am not doing sand because this is in my bedroom and i dont want a huge mess lol. I also had to go with a 30 gallon instead of a 37. What are some good live plants to go in a 30 gallon tank. I will also have rock build up in my tank.


I've read back through this thread, let's see if I've followed it correctly. You're going to stock the tank with gouramis, dwarf cichlids (pair is best) and rasbora. Gravel substrate. Plants.

Now we need some info: what is your tap water pH (assuming tap water will be your tank water source)? Do you have a light for the tank, and is it flourescent, and if yes, how many tubes will it hold? This will determine the type of plants, and there are many I can suggest when we know.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

my tap water ph is around 7.4 i havbe a fluroescent light wiht one tube. And i thionly dwarf chiclids tank but i am unsure yet


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> my tap water ph is around 7.4 i havbe a fluroescent light wiht one tube. And i thionly dwarf chiclids tank but i am unsure yet


This will work fine. Make sure the flourescent tube is full spectrum with a rating of 6500K or higher. These are more expensive to buy than the "regular" tubes sold in hardware stores, but they are much stronger (which means more intense light that will penetrate the water and reach the plants), they have the right spectrum (closest to midday sun whch is what the plants need) and they look better (colours of the fish are best under full spectrum). Any good fish store will carry these tubes; to ascertain the length of tube measure between the end brackets in the light fixture. There are some newer types of tubes out now that provbide more light at less wattage than even 10 years ago. Any of these will be fine, just make sure it is full spectrum light.

To the plants suggestions. Almost any of the amazon sword species (Echinodorus) will be good. Some get big, others stay small. Several will send out flower spikes from time to time; these don't usually flower (the plant needs to be grown partly emersed, or requires much more light and CO2, etc) but plants will form at the nodes and you can either let them float along the spike in the water, which looks realistic, or when they grow a bit break them off and plant them as new plants. Most of the swords have dark green leaves, some have reddish-brown which is a nice contrast. If you look at the photos of my two aquariums, most of those plants are Echinodorus, and I have several species. They should be OK in your pH. Dwart cichlids will feel comfortable with these plants, they live together in nature at least during the floods. Arrange your rock work where you want it (and a piece of bogwood would be very nice) and then plant the plants around it. Make sure none of the rock or wood is dead centre in the tank, it looks odd and unrealistic.

Echinodorus bleheri is a good plant for along the back and sides, it will grow close to the water surface in your tank, and probably send out flower spikes. Easy to grow. Echinodorus tenellus is a small sword that will send out runners and little plants will root themselves in the substrate, and in time could cover the bottom of the tank (I have these in both tanks, the light green plants along the gravel). You can break off the runners and move them around. Nice plant, and does well with the light it will receive. Echinodorus osiris is a nice specimen plant, looks better on its own off to the side (never put a plant directly in the centre of a tank, it looks very artificial). Slightly wavy leaves, about 8-10 inches long; you can see one on the left front of my 70g.

Vallisneria will grow in your water, it has long strap-like leaves, and there are several varieties. Saggitaria is a very similar looking plant. Most of the bunch plants (the ones you buy as stems tied in a small bunch) require more intense light. However, I have good luck with Brazilian Pennywort, you can see it in the rear corners of my 90g. It grows very fast, has to be trimmed every second week or it would cover the surface. You can break off the stems and stick them in the gravel and they will root and grow. Once started, yuou'll never run out of this plant. I throw bits away every week after I've trimmed it.

Be careful with surface plants; they look nice, but reduce the light getting down to the rooted plants, and with only one tube I would stay away from surface plants. The light won't be too intense for the fish.

Rooted plants like swords are heavy feeders, but I find that liquid fertilizer keeps them growing fine. Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Plant Supplement is good, as is Kent's Freshwater Plant Supplement. You want a basic trace elements fertilizer like these; they also make many others that are specific to this or that mineral, but the trace element one is mandatory and all you'll need. Use the recommended amount after the weekly water change. If the plants start developing yellowing leaves or leaves that become transparent (like cellophane), do a second dose midweek. I've experimented with mine, they are fine with two doses per week, but if I cut back to one they start showing it. 

A last note on the gravel; get the smallest-sized grain of gravel you can. In most fish stores you can buy this in bulk (rather than the bags) which is much cheaper. Whatever type you like, but the darker or tan coloured are more natural looking for both the plants and the fish. Plant roots are best in the smaller gravel, and it will not trap uneaten food.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

Wow thanks a ton. I have already groen some of these plants before and they are doing great. The pygmy chain sword, is it easy to find i havent seen it before. Is it similar to liliaeopsis. i dont know if i spelled that right. Would anubias nana work well also.Shoud i use java moss at all.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> Wow thanks a ton. I have already groen some of these plants before and they are doing great. The pygmy chain sword, is it easy to find i havent seen it before. Is it similar to liliaeopsis. i dont know if i spelled that right. Would anubias nana work well also.Shoud i use java moss at all.


Yes, Anubias nana would be good, sorry, I forgot that one, and I have some in my 70g at the far left side, the dark green plant. Java moss grows on rocks, wood, I have some in the 70g attached to the wood on the left at the front and the wood standing behind; just place a piece on a piece of wood or rock and it will root and grow fast (you might have to weigh it down until it roots, a small pebble or something, otherwise it can float off). 

The pygmy chain sword is well known and you should be able to find it, or if you have a good fish store they may be able to track it down. I've never kept Lilaeopsis but according to my plant encyclopedia it is a bit similar but very thick like a grass lawn, in fact, the common name in the book is New Zealand grassplant. The book says it needs strong light, which may not be so good in your tank (nor in mine frankly). 

If you've had success before, you'll do great with your new tank. Keep us posted; and ask questions, we're all here to assist where we can. Good luck. Byron.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

If i put java moss in, is there a way to keep it in a desired location or will it just spread uncontrolably


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## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

catfishtabbi said:


> Hi jimmy , Just seen your post . I think the rasboras are too aggressive for the chocolate gourami and really the chocolates i kept liked the lower third of the tamk much like the dwarf cichlids so i doubt it will work. Chocolates are extremely difficult to keep. The cichlids go well in mopst tanks as long as water parameters allow for it, they do like hte floor to themselves. If your basing your decision on stats that say chocos like 7ph they're wrong, thye like it in the low 6's and breed in high 5's. Whats more they can be scared to death. Perhaps a sprcies tank for the chocos.


Ditto these comments. Chocolates are extremely difficult feeders and generally require a species tank. This is not a fish to take lightly. I consider my marine systems to be much easier to care for that this fish.


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## jimmyhoye (Dec 7, 2008)

Pasfur said:


> Ditto these comments. Chocolates are extremely difficult feeders and generally require a species tank. This is not a fish to take lightly. I consider my marine systems to be much easier to care for that this fish.


a few posts after that one i decided to not do chocolate gouramis


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

jimmyhoye said:


> If i put java moss in, is there a way to keep it in a desired location or will it just spread uncontrolably


Once it roots on a piece of bogwood or rock, it will keep spreading but not overly fast, and each week when I do the partial water change I run the siphon through it to pull out the bits of food and dirt that will naturally settle in it, and some of the jave moss usually pulls apart and into the hose. You can also just take hold of a bit of it and pull it off and start it somewhere else or chuck it out. It's good stuff for a fry tank, if you ever have fish spawning.


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## Jai ullu (Apr 6, 2009)

I suggest you focus more on the decor rather than the fish. Just get some glamorous brightly colored fish and focus on making a central theme. I have decorated about 20 30 gallon tanks in my life(as a part time job when I was in college) and each has a different theme. The most popular one was the retro style and the roman style. But to get the decor youd have to visit many stores. Like: petsmart, petco, walmart, k-mart, target and preferably a local pet store.


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