# 10 Gallon Build Log



## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Hey guys, 

I decided to go ahead and setup a 10 gallon, and decided to start a small log for anyone who is interested, and and so you can help me . This is a continuation of this thread:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-aquarium/10-gallon-stock-ideas-74412/

This will be my last tank for a least a year until I move into a bigger place. It will either stick some ember tetras, dwarf rasbora and pygmy cories or 3 dwarf puffers. Have not decided yet, and it will depend on what I find locallly.

I painted the back of the tank black. It came out OK. It is a play sand substrate, I washed it for about 2 hours, it got really dirty once I filled the tank so I will be doing extra water changes this week.

It will be planted. Have not decided what will go in it, I will take what I can from other tanks.

I have a life glo bulb T-8 bulb and I will be using a sponge filter, which I did not get yet.

Here is a pic so far. THe water is so cloudy, and I need to remove a little sand. I hope the table it is on is OK. It is an Ikea table. It in not solid wood, but it is way stronger than particle board. Everything is level, and I have even sat on the desk before and did not feel any bowing under me.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

very nice


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Well, after two water changes it is still kinda cloudy. I will continue the changes until it is clean. 

I put in the Life Glo bulb, added some pennywort, a sword I hope will grow, and a crypt. Can anyone tell what kind of crypt it is?It is very large and I don't know how to trim it, or split it, and i need to know how large it may get because if it gets alot bigger I may put in in my 29gal and add a wendtii red to the 10. I also dosed with flourish.

I will be getting a sponge filter, hopefully tomorrow.Can anyone suggest an air pump. I was looking at the tetra ones. I don't know if I need to get the pump rated for 20gal or 10. I need it to be quiet but sufficient.

Will pond snails burrow in sand? Is it bad that I added a few if I plan on getting MTS? Will MTS do ok in soft to slightly hard water?

I have to figure out what other plants I can add and what rock/ driftwood I want. I have some java fern and more pennywort to add once the water is cleaner.

Oh and it looks like I will be moving more towards the community tank rather than the puffers.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

Sounds good, MTS do fine in your water if you have what you asked and pond snails don't burrow. Also don't bury the rhizome of the jave fern


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Christople answered on the snails and I agree. On the air pump, the Hagen Elite is the one I have, my old one was not bad for noise, the new one (had to get a larger one to run 3 tank sponge filters) is anything but quiet, but in my fishroom I don't care. You might want to look at the Whisper pumps which supposedly are quiet. Perhaps someone who has one can tell us.

Size of air pump is determined by the number of airstones it will run. Elite uses this method, I got one that would run 4 airstones and with 3 sponge filters I have very good air flow. For a single sponge filter you will probably manage with the smallest.

An air pump should run at full capacity; I have read this will prolong its life. With only one sponge filter, if you adjust it that means the pump will not run full out, so i wold get a dual valve. You can set the one valve to run the filter, and the other can have a 2-3 inch piece of tubing with a airstone on it--you need some restriction on the air or it will take the easiest route and bypass the filter valve.

Byron.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Byron said:


> Size of air pump is determined by the number of airstones it will run. Elite uses this method, I got one that would run 4 airstones and with 3 sponge filters I have very good air flow. For a single sponge filter you will probably manage with the smallest.
> 
> An air pump should run at full capacity; I have read this will prolong its life. With only one sponge filter, if you adjust it that means the pump will not run full out, so i wold get a dual valve. You can set the one valve to run the filter, and the other can have a 2-3 inch piece of tubing with a airstone on it--you need some restriction on the air or it will take the easiest route and bypass the filter valve.
> 
> Byron.


I think I'm going to get a 10 gallon tetra whisper as it is the smallest and very very cheap. I read if you put it on carpet to eliminate the vibrations there is almost no noise. However it only has one outlet. So can I take a t valve and do as you say.....one into the tank, controlled by how much air I need, and the other side to an air stone just sitting outside the tank? Do i need an air stone for my sponge filter? or does it depend on a filter?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> I think I'm going to get a 10 gallon tetra whisper as it is the smallest and very very cheap. I read if you put it on carpet to eliminate the vibrations there is almost no noise. However it only has one outlet. So can I take a t valve and do as you say.....one into the tank, controlled by how much air I need, and the other side to an air stone just sitting outside the tank? Do i need an air stone for my sponge filter? or does it depend on a filter?


One outlet from the pump is all you want; use a valve. The line to the sponge filoter connects directly to the air tube on the filter, no airstone. The "bleeder" airstone can sit beside the pump and valve. If you have an old airstone, fine, or buy one, they are inexpensive.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Great thanks. Yes I have not used an air pump since I was very young. Oh the days of treasure chests that open and close with bubbles.....
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Pretty mad because I went to the LFS to get the pump and filter and forgot to look at the wood and rocks for the tank :/ So it looks like I wont have any new updates untill the weekend.

I set up the filter, but the media is in my 29 gallons canister. I will take it out tomorrow and put it in the 10gal when I change the filter media in my canister. I am also using sechem stability. 

I have been neglecting my 5 gallon plants so in the process of cleaning it tonight I moved a piece of wood and java fern to the 10. some of the java fern is black and has holes, could this be because the roots actually grew down the wood and into the substrate?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Can you post a pic of the Java Fern?


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)




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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Could be nitrogen deficiency (ammonium), this comes from fish and bacteria (don't clean the substrate to encourage organics). The roots growing into the substrate is natural, not the issue itself, just so you know.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

The tanks chemistry is all off. It has allot of hair algae but the java fern is dying, and that crypt that is now in the 10 (and I made another post before) grows very well. I need to really work on it. I have reduced the amount of light and scrubbed the wood and it has been better. The betta seems to be doing fine and parameters are OK, i just need to finally get rid of the algae and redo the plants.

As for the 10. I will be taking the filter out of my 29gallons canister tomorrow and putting it in the 10. I added a few more plants and I'm using stability. If I can get to the LFS tomorrow ill hopefully find some wood and rock, and I may try some moss. I think im going to do the community tank, and I'm set with ember tetra, just don't know when I can get/find them.

Should I keep the damaged java fern in the tank right now? I'm not concerned with looks as I have nice, healthy green fern from my 29 that I will move into this tank, I just want the plants to start filtering the water so its safe for the fish.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

OK so I decided to do the community tank, and bought 7 Ember Tetra 3 days ago. They are doing great, and I really like them, they are really active. This tank is on hold until i get the driftwood to sink in my 29gallon, as the wood in this tank is the old wood from the 29 and but I may have to move it back into the 29 for a while.

While I work on the driftwood issue, I would like to add MTS, but I cannot find them locally


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

That's very nice. I would only add a pygmy chain sword in one front corner; it will settle and send out runners and you'll have a nice patch of thin-leaf plants around the wood.

If you could find some of the dwarf-species corys... that's an ideal setup for them.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Byron said:


> That's very nice. I would only add a pygmy chain sword in one front corner; it will settle and send out runners and you'll have a nice patch of thin-leaf plants around the wood.
> 
> If you could find some of the dwarf-species corys... that's an ideal setup for them.


Thanks for the plant suggestion, that is exactly what im looking to do.

Dwarf corys are in and out at my LFS so I will get them, but not for a while, especially because it looks like they are sensitive. My next addition will be some MTS shipped from a forum member hopefully next week.

Also, there are some white spots on the tetra and one had stringy white poop last night, so I need to keep an eye on that.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

i have a chain sword and I started with one and now have 12 runners, it over run my ten gallon, but then again, it looks kinda good


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

OK so its been a few days. Ember Tetra are doing great, I added some more plants, and adjusted the wood/heater/filter to the final positions.

I love the ember tetra. They are so active. Still light in color, but I will be feeding frozen food soon so that should help, plus I'm sure they are still getting used to their surroundings.

I will be adding MTS this week thanks to DKRST. He is sending me ~100, mostly small ones. How many should I put in the 10 gallon to be my clean up crew/move my sand around? The rest will go in the 29 gallon with the eco complete. My zebra loaches may enjoy them.

While messing with my 29 gallon, I broke the roots of my dwarf lily off its bulb. Will that continue to sprout or did I kill the plant? If its ok I moved a couple of sprouts with roots in the back right corner to see if it would grow, and I planted the bulb in the 10 so it would grow faster.

I cant decide on final stocking, although I know I want sparkling gourami (donno how many) and a dwarf cory (I was thinking 7). If I did that I don't know if I could add a dwarf rasbora if I ever found them. My LFS has rasbora brittani but I don't like them. I would rather have mosquito rasbora. I would also up my ember tetra from 7 to 10 maybe because I like them.

Here is a pic of the tank now:









What is this on my substrate. Is it snail/ fish poop or junk from the wood/plants?


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

The stuff on the substrate looks like stuff from the wood imo. Is that the old piece of driftwood you said you had moved over to ur new tank? If so how old is it? Is it soft to the touch? If soo that stuff is probably from the wood and imo should be thrown away. But I would definitely get some others opinion for sure on this. As I am not really experienced on this matter. One thing I am sure of is I would definitely siphon it out of the tank.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

In a weeks time it covered a nice part on the tank. I got most of it out after I took this pic. The wood has been in my other tank for about 10-11 months. I also swished my fingers around above the substrate and it started to float an the filter got some of it out
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

I would not think that much waste would come from the fish in a weeks time nor the snails. Which makes me think the wood again. Did you notice this mess in your other tank?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I doubt that is fish waste too. Perhaps from the wood, or miniscule plant matter?


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

It must be wood/ plant matter.

anyway, I'm assuming 2 of them have ich, although it is so hard to tell. Two have some white specs on them but they all seem very active and they are not lethargic. They don't scratch or anything although they sometimes swim very close to the sand sometimes. The one sits under a leaf sometimes. I cant get a good pic. Any suggestions?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> It must be wood/ plant matter.
> 
> anyway, I'm assuming 2 of them have ich, although it is so hard to tell. Two have some white specs on them but they all seem very active and they are not lethargic. They don't scratch or anything although they sometimes swim very close to the sand sometimes. The one sits under a leaf sometimes. I cant get a good pic. Any suggestions?


Any chance of a "clear" pic? If there are whitish spots easily visible, probably ich; Velvet has very small spots and tends to cover the fish. I sometimes do nothing if the spots are ich and very few (1 or maybe 2) and only one or two fish, other than normal water changes with a good conditioner. But if it is more advanced, or if it is Velvet, raise the temp to 85F and treat once with Coppersafe at the dose on the label (1 teaspoon per 4 gallons, that is actual gallons in the tank so consider substrate displacing some water). Do this right after a water change of 50%, since future water changes will dilute the Coppersafe. Raise the temp slowly by turning up the heater over a day or two. Leave it for a week, then lower the temp by turning the heater back down. I usually do the next water change after 10 days rather than the week, and I do not add more Coppersafe. 

If you have plants, do not use Flourish Comp or any other fert as this plus the Coppersafe will damage many species. Too much copper I suspect.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

This is the best I can do, I assume if I use coppersafe I should not add MTS for a while


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Yes, that's ich, not Velvet (thank goodness, Velvet is nasty). Earlier advice holds. If this is on two fish, I would up the temp and dose once with Coppersafe. B.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

I did a WC yesterday so Im not going to do one again because I dont want to start a mini cycle since its a new tank. Just got back from the store (just in time) with the coppersafe. Thanks!


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

So far so good I guess. I think that everyone is acting a little better. 

My MTS should be here today. I wanted them for this tank, although they will mostly be babies, I guess I can't add them because of the copper safe, right? When will be safe to add them, since the medicine lasts for a month? Is there something else Incan keep them in for now? I don't want to put all of them in the 30 now because of the loaches, and i don't wanna move decor trying to get them later. But my 5 gallon has alot of pond snails, so will there be an issue if I put the MTS there?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## DKRST (Jan 11, 2011)

You'd want to avoid putting the MTS in there right now with the copper. They are tough snails, but copper is baaad for inverts. 

Just take the package when you get it, find a clean bowl or container of some type (I kept them in an old wonton-soup quart container for almost week before sending to you!). Put the snails in the container, add some dechlorinated water, and you should be ok for a while. Don't fill more than 1/2 to 3/4 full. I'd recommend doing a 100% water change every day in the temporary snail house, just pour off the water and replace with dechlorinated water. Feed an algae disk or two soon. They haven't been fed in a while! The Wardley (spelling ?) algae disks hold together pretty well in water. I bought mine at Petco.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

That sounds great! How bout a lid?? Can I have one with some holes poked in it? I have cats so a lid would be good just incase. I cant put them in my stand because they open te door. Maybe I'll leave it in the bathroom for now, and take them out when we shower because it gets hot.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## DKRST (Jan 11, 2011)

My dogs tried to drink them, so a lid might be recommended! I wouldn't worry too much about moving when showering. It won't change the water temp that much!


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## Calmwaters (Sep 2, 2009)

Just wanted to say I like the way the tank looks. I have ember tetra as well and they are one of my favorite fish. I hope yours make it ok.


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## DKRST (Jan 11, 2011)

Re: the MTS - they'd be fine in the 5 gallon with no loaches. When you want some for your 10g, just drop in an algae tab as bait, wait a few hours and grab what you want to transfer!

You can hand-pick the bigger MTS out to avoid/reduce the risk of introducing pond snails to your 10 if they are not already there.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Calmwaters said:


> Just wanted to say I like the way the tank looks. I have ember tetra as well and they are one of my favorite fish. I hope yours make it ok.


Thanks, means alot. I really like it being on my desk, as I work from home alot, and I can see all three tanks sitting at my computer chair, but I love the sand and the ember tetra in this one. I'm assuming since they lived this far with the ICH all should be well since I already began treatment, and they look better already.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

DKRST: I have been busy, but I got the snails, almost if not all of them seem healthy. I am keeping them in a container for now but may but them in the five. Thanks again!!!!!

I know about the life cycle of ICH so I understand why we raise temps, and when you are able to actually kill the parasite, but when should I start to see results? The fish seem better, as they are not rubbing on stuff, but the two are still covered. They look miserable


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

> I know about the life cycle of ICH so I understand why we raise temps, and when you are able to actually kill the parasite, but when should I start to see results? The fish seem better, as they are not rubbing on stuff, but the two are still covered. They look miserable


I've noticed in my two treatments of ich with Coppersafe that the spots will be on the fish (different fish/different spots, I don't know, but spots on fish) for several days, then gone. I'm actually not sure exactly, but could have been just under a week. Once the temp is at 85F and Coppersafe added, leave it for 10 days. I let the temp lower naturally by just turning down the heaters at 7 days this last time. Then I did a 50% water change on day 10 by which time the temp was back to normal. No additional Coppersafe. Worked both times.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Byron said:


> I've noticed in my two treatments of ich with Coppersafe that the spots will be on the fish (different fish/different spots, I don't know, but spots on fish) for several days, then gone. I'm actually not sure exactly, but could have been just under a week. Once the temp is at 85F and Coppersafe added, leave it for 10 days. I let the temp lower naturally by just turning down the heaters at 7 days this last time. Then I did a 50% water change on day 10 by which time the temp was back to normal. No additional Coppersafe. Worked both times.


Cool, hopefully everything works out. I treated late Monday night, and it is now Friday so lets see how the weekend goes.

Another thought (which could be compleatly stupid because I dont remember my high school science classes), I noticed some blueish spots on my substrate, under the lid of the tank. The color of coppersafe just happens to be the same blue color. Does all of the coppersafe (or Prime, excel, any dosed liquid) spread throughout the tank sufficiently? How about in sponge filters where this is little water flow??


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> Cool, hopefully everything works out. I treated late Monday night, and it is now Friday so lets see how the weekend goes.
> 
> Another thought (which could be compleatly stupid because I dont remember my high school science classes), I noticed some blueish spots on my substrate, under the lid of the tank. The color of coppersafe just happens to be the same blue color. Does all of the coppersafe (or Prime, excel, any dosed liquid) spread throughout the tank sufficiently? How about in sponge filters where this is little water flow??


Not sure what the blue on the substrate may be. When I add any liquid to a tank, be it Flourish, Coppersafe, etc, I add it at the top closest to the filter return so the flow carries it into the aquarium. Water conditioner I add where the Python is, obviously, as the fresh water from the tap is entering there.


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## DKRST (Jan 11, 2011)

Glad you received the snails. Any issues, please let me know. Regarding the coppersafe in the tank, I'd recommend several really good water changes before you put the MTS in the tank. You can always drop a few MTS into the tank after the water changes to see if they survive any residual copper. My MTS survived a treatment that killed pond snails and ramshorn snails - they are tough but not indestructible. You won't always see the MTS after introduction, since they burrow. Eventually, to check the post-coppersafe survivorship, just drop in an algae tablet and keep an eye on it for snails.

Good luck with the ick treatment!


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

There seem to be less spots on the two infected fish, so that's good news. It will be one week today that I started treatment. However, I did wake up to a dead tetra today, one who had no ich spots. His fins were completely missing. It looked like the others may have attacked him. I have no other explanation since they were all alive last night.

I will do a water change in a minimum of 3 days from now. Then go back to my normal schedule. I will not add new fish until I get back from vacation at the end of the month, but I would like to add the MTS before I go away so the person house sitting does not have to deal with the container everyday.

Every now and then, maybe 2-3 times a day, an air bubble pops up from the sand. Should I be moving the sand around by hand every now and then before I add my MTS?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> There seem to be less spots on the two infected fish, so that's good news. It will be one week today that I started treatment. However, I did wake up to a dead tetra today, one who had no ich spots. His fins were completely missing. It looked like the others may have attacked him. I have no other explanation since they were all alive last night.
> 
> I will do a water change in a minimum of 3 days from now. Then go back to my normal schedule. I will not add new fish until I get back from vacation at the end of the month, but I would like to add the MTS before I go away so the person house sitting does not have to deal with the container everyday.
> 
> Every now and then, maybe 2-3 times a day, an air bubble pops up from the sand. Should I be moving the sand around by hand every now and then before I add my MTS?


I see bubbles from gravel and sand, it may well be trapped air. Often occurs after a water change interestingly, I can only assume the change in water pressure may have dislodged some of the substrate, freeing the trapped air pockets. Wouldn't worry. If this is a planted tank, I would never touch the substrate.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Good news and maybe bad news. Ich looks cleared up, today is day 10 so Ill do my first WC today or tomorrow.

Bad news is, I think i have one overly aggressive tetra. Sometimes when I look over there is alot of chasing. This normally wouldn't concern me, although I lost a tetra a few days ago overnight, and his fins were ripped apart. Could this be something else?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> Good news and maybe bad news. Ich looks cleared up, today is day 10 so Ill do my first WC today or tomorrow.
> 
> Bad news is, I think i have one overly aggressive tetra. Sometimes when I look over there is alot of chasing. This normally wouldn't concern me, although I lost a tetra a few days ago overnight, and his fins were ripped apart. Could this be something else?


Which species, how many, and what is the tank size?


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

It is the 7 ember tetra from this tank. 10 gallon. 8 days into their ich treatment. The one who died to not have any ich spots. No other fish in the tank.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> It is the 7 ember tetra from this tank. 10 gallon. 8 days into their ich treatment. The one who died to not have any ich spots. No other fish in the tank.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Don't worry. Torn fins are common with ich, so that is probably the explanation. And this species, Hyphessobrycon amandae, is unlikely to be aggressive; the chasing is most likely normal, mine do it a lot.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

The one with torn fins died within a 5 hr time period, and he did not show any spots. He whole back fin was compleatly missing. Thats why I was worried

The rest have recovered from ich and are active again, but they chase alot
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

So I have decided on sparkling gourami (if and when I can find them) How many for a 10 gallon. Stock would look like this if possible:

7 Ember Tetra
? Sparkling Gourami
7 Dwarf Rasbora Species or Scarlet Badis
7 Dwarf Cory Species
MTS
Maybe Red Cherry Shrimp

Good or Bad?


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Would Celestial Pearl Danios work in this tank?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

No mention is made in this thread of water parameters. Celestial Pearl Danio need basic medium hard water, they will not do well in soft acidic water. Ember Tetra are better in soft acidic water. I personally would not combine such opposites.

I must caution on the Sparkling Gourami, believe it or not. I have had these fish several times over the years, and never before noticed problems. But my current group of five has given me no end of trouble with their aggressive behaviour to all other fish in the tank. I've had to move them into the 90g. I had in the 5 2 males and I think 3 females, as it turned out (no way to tell until they interact, from what I can see). This species will readily spawn in good conditions, such as my soft acidic water. And the males--like all gourami males--defend the nest vigorously. All the other fish in the tank were forced into hiding at the bottom under wood and plants. I have seldom seen such ferocity and from so tiny a fish.

Previously, I had this species in a 70g well planted, and they spawned continually, several fry survived to spawn themselves. I guess the large area and thick plants kept things relatively calm, as I never noticed this then. But in the 33g it was terror. Now they're in the 90g with some much larger fish, and I'm hoping the other fish will readily devour the eggs and that will put a stop to the defending of the nest. Aside from spawning, the gourami are fine. In your small space of a 10g, there would be no escape from these guys, so I wouldn't risk it; I had Dwarf Rasbora, about the same size and colour as your Embers, in with them and they were hounded and nipped. On their own, with perhaps some substrate fish (they didn't seem as interested in my loaches, more the upper fish, though they did charge and nip at the pygmy corys when they surfaced for air) they will be OK.

Byron.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

OK that works, for both the danio and the gourami (did not have alot of time to look into the gourami, my pH is 7 out of the tap but lowers with wood, etc)

Anyway, is there anything you can think of as a sort of "center piece" that would work with the stock above?

Oh and my hardness, not sure the exact numbers, but it is soft to moderately hard, we have stated in another thread.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> OK that works, for both the danio and the gourami (did not have alot of time to look into the gourami, my pH is 7 out of the tap but lowers with wood, etc)
> 
> Anyway, is there anything you can think of as a sort of "center piece" that would work with the stock above?
> 
> Oh and my hardness, not sure the exact numbers, but it is soft to moderately hard, we have stated in another thread.


There's mostly red in the present mix. Interesting how so many of the "dwarf" species are red. Colourful anyway. Might have to give this some thought, and research more like.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Byron said:


> There's mostly red in the present mix. Interesting how so many of the "dwarf" species are red. Colourful anyway. Might have to give this some thought, and research more like.


Yea it is strange, Im leaning towards mosquito rasbora if possible. And RCS, so yea alot of red, which I don't mind. I just want something as a "centerpiece", does not have to be elaborate or anything, just something different than a school of fish. What do you think about honey gourami? Too small a tank?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> Yea it is strange, Im leaning towards mosquito rasbora if possible. And RCS, so yea alot of red, which I don't mind. I just want something as a "centerpiece", does not have to be elaborate or anything, just something different than a school of fish. What do you think about honey gourami? Too small a tank?


"Single" fish suitable for a 10g are rather limited. The obvious Betta, but not with the others that would readily be eaten. Gourami I am not prone to keep individually; they like to interact, and a 10g is rather small for a pair of Honey Gourami when other fish are included. The Bolivian Ram is good solitary, about the only cichlid that is, but I would not subject one to a 10g; I have a beauty at almost 4 inches in my 115g, and I can't imagine him in my 10g even alone. Another maybe is the Spotted Headstander; I have a sole fish in my 115g and he could probably manage in a 10g; as a vegetarian it is unlikely to eat small fish. Mine does get belligerent at feeding time, he eats sinking foods and is continually trying to keep the corys away from "his" tidbit, with little success of course. The best options are probably among the substrate fish. A whiptail catfish would do well.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

would a whiptail catfish fit in a ten gallon


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Christople said:


> would a whiptail catfish fit in a ten gallon


Yes. The "smallish" species included in our profile is only 5-6 inches, and very, very thin. It is inactive, grazing surfaces as it basically crawls along. It never "swims" as such. With lots of wood a Whiptail Catfish would be in fishy heaven.

Just don't get the larger "Royal" type species. Stick to Rineloricaria genus. You have to know what you're acquiring, and these do look a lot alike.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

sorry to steal the thread but what kind would you recommend for a 38 gallon, I am getting manzinitan wood and what ever I can find at my local river that is okay to put in


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Christople said:


> sorry to steal the thread but what kind would you recommend for a 38 gallon, I am getting manzinitan wood and what ever I can find at my local river that is okay to put in


What kind of which fish? If you mean substrate/catfish generally, a Whiptail Catfish works in any tank, and they graze algae. A Farlowella vittata provided the water is soft (yours is, if memory serves me), these are super algae eaters, comparable to otos. There are some smallish (under 4-5 inches) Hypancistrus, two are in our profiles. A Bristlenose Pleco is another.

Some of these have territorial issues esp among males, the pleco do, so one is preferable.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Well. I don't really need a "single fish", just something to stand out from a group of tetras, corys and rasbora. That's the reason why I liked 2 or 3 sparkling gourami. The headstanders are cool.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

I think maybe the gourami, and yes my water is about 3dGH or 51.9 GH. I am getting a lot of wood soon also.


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## Quantum (Jul 23, 2011)

I wonder if a pair of Peacock Gudgeon (_Tateurndina Ocellicauda) _would work as centerpiece fish for your 10 gal. As is the case most of the time, there is contradictory info, but most sources I've come across say a pair could manage in a 20 inch tank and are generally peaceful with other species.

No personal experience with the fish, but they look interesting and could be an option.


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## Reece (Aug 10, 2011)

Ha. I wonder what the cat wants...


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

So the girlfriend and I decided to take a trip last night to "That Fish Place", which some of you may or not know. Its about 1hr and 45mins away from me. Well they had sparking gourami, so i decided to get 3, hoping there would be no spawning. The smallest of the three (they are reaaaalllllly small) passed overnight, so I now have 2, and obviously returning to the store is not really possible at the moment, so we will see how it goes. The one is defiantly a gourami, you can see the colors on his dorsal, very nice. The other is small, and i believe is a gourami but they were in a tank with Gertrude rainbowfish, and they were all so fast, It looked like the person was bagging the gourami but it was hard to tell untill i got home. It may also be a younger female:shock:

The ember tetra are very interested in them, but have not bothered them. Im working from home today so ill be able to observe them. They are not shy, and have been able to share the morning meal with the tetra so thats good. We will see where this take me.

Anyway would a group of 5 panda corys be OK in this tank, I am having a hard time finding pygmy corys, and my LFS may not be able to order them.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

bigehugedome said:


> So the girlfriend and I decided to take a trip last night to "That Fish Place", which some of you may or not know. Its about 1hr and 45mins away from me. Well they had sparking gourami, so i decided to get 3, hoping there would be no spawning. The smallest of the three (they are reaaaalllllly small) passed overnight, so I now have 2, and obviously returning to the store is not really possible at the moment, so we will see how it goes. The one is defiantly a gourami, you can see the colors on his dorsal, very nice. The other is small, and i believe is a gourami but they were in a tank with Gertrude rainbowfish, and they were all so fast, It looked like the person was bagging the gourami but it was hard to tell untill i got home. It may also be a younger female:shock:
> 
> The ember tetra are very interested in them, but have not bothered them. Im working from home today so ill be able to observe them. They are not shy, and have been able to share the morning meal with the tetra so thats good. We will see where this take me.
> 
> Anyway would a group of 5 panda corys be OK in this tank, I am having a hard time finding pygmy corys, and my LFS may not be able to order them.


Yes, five Corydoras panda in a 10g is fine. This species is very sensitive, so make sure the tank is cycled fully and established; I usually consider a new tank to be "established" (sufficient for what we are talking about) in 6+ weeks. Acclimate the panda slowly, mixing water from the tank etc., and get all five together.


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## dhutch (Aug 1, 2011)

Bighuge what type of fish is that in your avatar?


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

It is a cichlid from the Baltimore aquarium. I dunno what species, it has a hump so maybe a frontosa or something related.

So the gouramie did not work out. Two of three died, laying in the same spot at different times. Allthough they are the smallest ones so that may be why. I think i went to fast since there is still some coppersafe in the tank. Good thing is the third one is doing well. He is pretty shy, but good news is he is coming out to eat with the tetra. He loves exploring the maze of floating pennywort.

So the question is, will he be OK by himself? Or does he need friends? And He will be bigger by the time I get to add new ones, so will that make him more aggressive.

My stock will be:
6 Ember tetra (would like to raise this to at least 7, but dont want to get them from the same LFS that had ICH).
7 of some dwarf rasbora or something small I can find
___ Sparkling Gourami
5 Panda cory or 7 pygmy cory
Red Cherry shrimp
MTS

Not adding anything until September when I'm back from vacation. Ill post some pics tomorrow


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Under the circumstances (issues, vacation, etc) I would not add more fish at this time. The sole gourami will be fine. But in September, if you like the species, get a couple more. Just be aware that when they spawn the males can be territorial and rather aggressive on small fish. A gourami is a gourami.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Yes, this will be the plan. Thanks again


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Back from vacation. All is well with the tank, I changed the water and added the 5 panda corys. These guys are awesome. My cat loves them too, he watches them for hours.

The lone sparkling gourami has been out more since I added them, could be because I added a small portion or java moss to the tank, it is floating for the moment until I have time to attach it tomorrow, the gourami likes picking at it.

Here is one pic, ill get better ones later.

Trying to decide on some amano shrimp or red cherry shrimp. In the case of the red cherry, they are cheaper online and will hopefully have baby's, I would like to add them to my betta tank to see if the betta will allow them, or they can maybe live in my 30 and be delicious snacks for my loaches, (sorry if that offends anyone). 

Or I was gonna get a few amano, as long as they will be OK living off whats naturally in the tank and some algae wafers


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## Calmwaters (Sep 2, 2009)

Its looking very good!


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Indeed. I like the very natural use of a tangle of floating plants; that will calm the fish considerably. Floating plants is undoubtedly one of the best things in an aquarium of forest fish.


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## MarinePsycho (Aug 16, 2011)

How many gallons is that tank? I know the title says its a ten gallon tank but for some reason it seems bigger to my eyes.


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

it's a ten gallon... dimensions are 20Lx10Wx10H


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## MarinePsycho (Aug 16, 2011)

Oh ok thanks.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

It's actually about 20x10x12, but christople is correct. I plan on taking some more pics soon. I'll post them when I have them. Also ordering some RCS today
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

RCS added. I got 6, with two females with alot of eggs. I can never see more than 2 at a time but they have a mess of floating pennywort to hide in,. I hope i dont take any out when i soon replace the pennword with salvania.

So out of the 5 panda corys, one likes to sit on the heater (its horizontal). is this ok? Temp is at 78.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

So i have alot of updates for you guys, but have been very busy. I come to you know with an issue. One cory is flopped over sidways, it looks like he is about to go. He looks normal, but I cant get good pic. I do have a pic of another cory that seems fine, but all the corys look "dirtier". Its hard to explain but you can see the dirt in their scales. Is this normal, I dont want to loose all my corys.

I also notice that they gobble up alot of sand and it comes out their gils. I forget the work for that. Is that normal?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I have known corys to flop over on their sides. C. panda too if memory serves me correctly. It may be fine, or there may be trouble. I can't offer more, so just observe. Notice the respiration, if it is normal, probably nothing to worry about; if it is laboured or fast, may be something. Respiration will be faster after feeding, active swimming so that's normal; and slower if at rest. I usually try to compare the respiration of all fish in the tank if there is one fish that is questionable.

On the darkening, this is likely the fish. Fish have cells called melanophores that contain hundreds of melanin-filled pigment granules called melanosomes that can be dispersed throughout the individual cell (colour lightens) or congregated together (colour darkens). The cells are light sensitive and respond directly to light by what is termed melanosome translocations; this is why fish become pale and washed out during total darkness, and regain colour in daylight; this is non-voluntary. But fish can also voluntarily adjust these melanosomes in response to environmental stimuli, social interactions, and stress. Often fish will lighten their colour over white substrates (a sign of stress), and darken over darker substrates. I have seen this in my C. panda. I would here again carefully observe the group, along with other fish in the tank. Given the many reasons for this change, it could be an issue or it could simply be the fish responding naturally.

Byron.


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Thank you for your input, unfortunately the Cory was gone this morning. All others seem normal and active. They go crazy at times, digging and exploring, and they rest on and under the leaves when they are done, so I see what you mean about resperation during and after activitys. They all look normal to me, other than the pic I showed you. They have all darkened up.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Well, all the other seem to be fine. I decided it was time to clean the "dirt" from my substrate which is coming from my wood (see older posts). I cant get enough out when i do water changes so i decided to attatch a HOB filter. It is really helping. I took the wood out and rinsed it. I also rubbed it to see any came off, but it is still pretty solid.Im assuming this is just gunk and build up from the first tank it was in because I never rinsed it off, i just moved it from tank to tank. My substrate is pretty clean now, im just waiting for the water to clear.










Can someone tell me how to propagate ( i think thats the right word) my anubuis? It flowered under the lid!!


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## Christople (Sep 7, 2010)

To propagate the plant, just cut the rhimzone and put in a crack in the wood.


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## MarinePsycho (Aug 16, 2011)

What exactly is RCS?


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## bigehugedome (Aug 2, 2010)

Everything cleaned up nicely. Alot of the mess came from the flourish tabs I tried in the sand, maybe the MTS shifted them to the top.

I was able to verify that all 6 of my Red Cherry Shrimp (RCS) were still alive. Im hoping for babies.


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