# Brooklynella hostilis



## ayane

need some help....

my clarkie clown has just die from Brooklynella hostilis 


nw i afraid whether it will start to infect my other fishes such as blue tand and emperor....


anyway to treat it.....


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## bettababy

First of all, how do you know for sure it was Brooklynella hostilis ?

Brooklynella hostilis is a parasite, and can be very difficult to diagnose, even for the experts. 
The first thing we need to do before anyone can help you is to get your tank information, as complete as possible, and make sure this is for sure what we're dealing with. The treatment is very specific, but treatment will depend on your tank and how it's set up, and what is in it.

How big is the tank?
How long has it been set up?
What animals are in it? (please list everything and number of each, and also sizes of each)
How much live rock?
Sand or crushed coral substrate?
What kind of filtration? Skimmer? UV? medias in the filter?
Water temp?
Water params for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and calcium?
SPG/Salinity?
How often do you perform water changes?
How much water each time? When was the last one?
When was the last fish introduced to the system?
Is this fish only tank or reef?
What foods are you offering? How often and how much?
Do you have a quarantine tank? How big is the qt tank? 

Please tell us anything else you can think of about your tank and the animals inside it, and when this started... and details of what happened with the clown, how long ago it died, etc.

The more information you give us up front the faster we are able to help you.

I will be away starting Friday evening through Sunday night. I will check in here before I leave, and then when I get home if need be. I won't have internet access where I'm going, sorry.

If you have a quarantine tank but it isn't up and running, please begin preparing it for the fish. The others here should be able to help you with the qt tank set up if needed while I'm away. I can't suggest a medication or treatment until I have all of the above information first.


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## ayane

i saw my clownfish body is producing slime....gasping for air.....restless....unlike my other fishes


- i have 3 blue tang around 4 inch.....1 juv emperor...and 1 bannerfish...1 anemone hermit crab...1 blue-legged hermit crab and 1 red hermit crab....

- tank has been around 5 mths old....3ft tank....

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10 kg of life rock...no sand or other substrate

--using internal filter....jebo skimmer......no uv....using biohomes as media...

--at times temp is 26 if the weather is warm...its 31

--ph-8.3, ammonia-0, no2 - 0.1, n03 and calcium i nv test...


- salinity is 1.024

-i change water once a wk....last change was 2 days ago....


- about 1/4 of the tank...last fish added was the emperor and the clownfish...


- its a fish only tank.

- i am offering spectrum pellets...brine shrimps...mysid shrimps( all frozen for shrimps)....spirulina ....

- feed them thrice a day small amts...soak ing garlic ocassionally....


- qt tank i haf a 1 .5 ft...


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## ayane

bty...my clownfish has just died yst after i perform a freshwater dip....


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## bettababy

Ok, well, I don't hear anything in your description that would indicate Brooklynella hostilis.

I do hear a number of problems, and if not fixed, they can be deadly to all of what is in the tank.

For starters, a "3 foot tank" doesn't tell us how many gallons of water it holds. Sizes of aquariums are determined by length, width, and height together. Just 1 measurement tells us nothing at all.
3 ft is 36 inches, which, if that is the length of the tank, it could be 30 gallons, 38 gallons, 40 gallons, 45 gallons, 50 gallons or 65 gallons.

Now, whether it is 30 gallons or 65 gallons, that tank is not big enough for all of the animals you have in there. Add to it there is no substrate, which will mean lack of biological filtration, and feedings 3 times/day... this is just a disaster starting to happen.

Knowing your nitrate levels and calcium levels is extremely important in keeping that tank healthy and thriving. I would have to guess that by now the nitrate levels are probably off the chart, or near it. 

The symptoms you described in the clownfish are all indications of heavy nitrate levels, low oxygen levels, and a lot of stress. .1 for nitrites is also toxic to all of those animals.

I am not going to suggest medicating the fish at this point. There is no medication that will fix water quality problems, low oxygen levels, or stress. With inverts in the tank, there is no way to medicate safely in the main tank if at some point that should be needed.

Blue tangs, aka hepatus tangs grow to about 12 inches each. Emperor angels grow to about 15 inches. At 4 inches each for 3 of those fish, and with only about 22 lbs of live rock in the tank... there simply isn't any way to fix that other than to get them into a proper sized tank with the proper environment set up, and proper filtration and stable temps. Bare minimum for what you have now, at least 200+ gallons, but they shouldn't be started in anything less than 125 gallons. Those fish need space. Also, the tangs are primarily algae eaters. Your list of foods is mostly meat based, which isn't going to be enough to keep them healthy long term. 
I would suspect that your clownfish died first because it was one of the last to go in, and by the time it went in the tank water was probably very polluted. 25% water changes once/wk are not going to be enough to keep something like that clean. .1 nitrite now tells me there was a recent ammonia spike. Nitrite is the byproduct of ammonia. The addition of an animal will add ammonia, which will break down into nitrite, and then to nitrate. So as your nitrite level goes down, your nitrate level goes up.

Another problem is the temp fluctuations. There should be a heater in that tank to keep the temp more stable, and if weather takes your temp too high, then you should be running a chiller. Temp fluctuations, especially that drastic (5 degrees up and then down again) are deadly to those animals.

About the best thing I can ask you to do here is to either get the remaining animals into at least 100+ gallon, or start finding new homes for them. I would expect the anemone to be next on the list of things to die if left in the current situation, but your remaining fish are probably already suffering as well. In that tank those animals dont have a chance of surviving long term.

I'm sorry this probably wasn't what you were expecting or wanting to hear, but there are limits to the things we can accomplish when we keep fish in a glass box. Those animals have specific needs that must be met, and from your description, that isn't happening. The end result is death, such as with the clown. Adding medications will kill your inverts (anemone and crabs), and likely the fish because of the polluted water, and as I said earlier, there isn't a medication to treat for the problems you have. 

I'm not sure what else to tell you... but if you need help in setting up a proper environment for those animals, please let us know. We can guide you through it 1 step at a time.
Best of luck to you.


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## bettababy

I forgot to mention your bannerfish, aka Heniochus butterfly. These fish grow to about 10 inches, and are very sensitive to water quality, stress, and temp fluctuations. This is not an easy fish to keep, and they do best in pairs to small groups. They are a schooling fish. Minimum tank size for one of these is about 90 gallons. They are also not reef safe, and are known to eat many differnt types of corals and feather dusters. You may find that the butterfly picks at the anemone, too.
Sorry for forgetting this one...


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## ayane

oh thx bty....i tik the diagonis is wrong....


bty wad setup shld i use if i wan 2 change my tank......

how to i move my fiishes to the new setup if i wan 2 avoid new tank syndrome...


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## ayane

i tik is my no3 high....and high level of stress....nt the disease....


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## bettababy

To safely move those animals to an appropirate environment, you will need a tank of 125 - 200+ gallons, and you will need at least 100 lbs of live rock, live sand substrate, good filtration (I would strongly suggest a sump system with skimmer) and test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and calcium.

Cycle the tank before adding any animals to avoid "new tank syndrome".


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## ayane

oh k i will change my system....


but nw i suspect my emperor has velvet....patches of white on yis body....wad shld i do?


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## ayane

wad r the symptoms of velvet...

notice my emperor is breathing fast....

sometime swimming at the top.....

most of the time at the swimming at middle to btm...


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## bettababy

Considering the many problems with your system, there is no way to medicate those fish in the main tank.
Can you post pictures of your angel so we can get a better idea of its problem? 
The best thing to do is to get the main tank fixed as quickly as possible. If that doesn't happen, one animal at a time is going to have problems, and there isn't anything more to do about it than to get them into a proper environment.

In the mean time, if you set up a quarantine tank, a sick fish can be moved to the quarantine tank for needed treatment. Please be aware that moving a sick fish to a quarantine tank and then returning it to the current main tank is only going to bring the problems back. 
You might want to consider getting rid of some of those fish until you have a proper environment set up and ready for them.


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## ayane

i have remove all invertebrates to another time and treat my tank wif para guard...


unsure whether it will work...


thinking of using a ozone...


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## bettababy

Please be forewarned, Paraguard contains malachite green, which is not safe for all fish. That is a very harsh medication. If there is ammonia or nitrite present, or nitrates are over 40, malachite green can be toxic.


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## ayane

oh thks for the information....


bty just bought a gd uv light to sterilise the water.....


will it kill all the parasites?....


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## bettababy

UV alone will not kill all parasites, and won't do anything for parasites that are on a fish.
The way UV works is that the tank water is circulated through the chamber, which exposes it to the UV light. Water that passes through the UV chamber will then come back into the tank "clean" of all those little nasties. 

How effective a UV unit is depends greatly on the amount of circulation in the tank. Parasites will tend to live in sand beds, on rock, and on the fish. Unless they are in the water that passes through the UV, they would be completely unaffected.


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