# No Ammonia, high Nitrite & Nitrate



## Adamson

Hello all, I was wondering if you could help me figure out a confusing scenario I am experiencing.

The last few days I have been testing my water, and my readings have been:

Ammonia: 0 to .25
Nitrite: 5
Nitrate 10

Now the 50 gallon tank is pretty well planted, has a Fluval 206 Canister filter, and I am not sure if it matters, but yesterday I added a DIY moving bed filter.

I feel like my levels are kind of strange and I am worried about the fish. Could this just be the end of it cycling? (As the tank has only been running 3 weeks)

All advice appreciated.


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## Romad

Yes, you're in the midst of cycling. Those nitrates are still present (lethal to fish) but are being converted to nitrates. That's why you don't see ammonia since stage one has been completed.


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## Termato

Romad said:


> Yes, you're in the midst of cycling. Those nitrates are still present (lethal to fish) but are being converted to nitrates. That's why you don't see ammonia since stage one has been completed.


Nitrite to Nitrate 

I read this in the Cycle main forum:
Ammonia will go down first. Then when its completely gone the Nitrospira bacteria convert the nitrite into nitrate


In non-planted tanks, we must manually remove nitrate with water changes but in heavily planted tanks, plants can absorb nitrate and prevent it from building up in our tanks. Luckily, nitrate is safe at low levels so water changes and/or plants can prevent it from ever building up to problematic levels. The entire process takes anywhere from 4-8 weeks although cycle lengths shorter or longer than this time frame aren't rare.


Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...reshwater-aquarium-cycle-38617/#ixzz1n9zUmRqJ.


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## Adamson

Anything I can do to prevent fish loss?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Termato

Adamson said:


> Anything I can do to prevent fish loss?
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


If you haven't changed the water today I would do so.

Other then that you can trim off dead parts of the plants to keep it clean. There are chemicals you can use but your best bet is the water change. 

My Nitrate levels are so high I don't know how my fish are alive. I am going to have to do another water change right now.


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## Adamson

Lost 3 or 4 fish so far, I threw in a few doses of Prime, hopefully that helps. I just want this cycling thing to be over.


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## Termato

Adamson said:


> Lost 3 or 4 fish so far, I threw in a few doses of Prime, hopefully that helps. I just want this cycling thing to be over.


You lost fish...oh no! Im sorry.

Did you do a water change? Do you have any plants?

I don't understand it because my Nitrate reading is coming back as 60ppm for the TAP water AND the tank. The fish are swimming fine....

I have no nitrite though so that could be the big difference. I hope you water levels out.


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## Adamson

Termato said:


> You lost fish...oh no! Im sorry.
> 
> Did you do a water change? Do you have any plants?
> 
> I don't understand it because my Nitrate reading is coming back as 60ppm for the TAP water AND the tank. The fish are swimming fine....
> 
> I have no nitrite though so that could be the big difference. I hope you water levels out.


Did a 50% water change a couple hours before I tested the water today, at that point I had no fish loss.

I have a lot of plants in there.

I wonder if it has something to do with me putting in the homemade moving bed filter last night? Or if it just a very lethal part of the cycle..

Edit, here is how many plants I have


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## Termato

*Your Nitrite level is the only thing that is concerning because that is literally off the chart.*

I found High level of nitrate in my tap water. You should maybe try taking a sample from that to see if that could be the problem?

Your tank looks beautiful....and the plants in it should be more than enough according to everything I've been told and read.


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## Byron

Something is definitely wrong here. If there are lots of live plants, and some fast-growing ones like stem plants or better still floating plants, you should not see ammonia or nitrite at all in a new tank (unless the fish stocking is way over the top). Also, nitrites at 5ppm would kill all fish immediately, though if this number is correct the Prime is likely preventing that.

What exactly is this moving bed filter? If you could explain this, how it works, what it contains, I may have some suggestions.

Also, have you tested the tap water on its own for nitrite and nitrate?


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## Adamson

The moving bed filter is something I made out of a little bottle thing. Inside I have it about half full of cut up straw with an airstone moving the water through them. Holes in the bottom and top of the device to let water in and out, with a sponge blocking the bottom holes to act as an extra filter. If you look on my YouTube channel my newest video shows it. 

I have not tested the tap water but I will when I get home.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Adamson

The moving bed filters purpose is a bio filter to help with ammonia. I did it more because I was interested in in that stuff more than actually needing it.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Byron

I've not the scientific understanding to be certain, but this filter may be causing the issue. The straw may be feeding things.

As I mentioned previously, with sufficient live plants (as you say you have) there absolutely cannot be ammonia or nitrite. It just can't happen, unless it is coming in from somewhere.

Aside from that, any biological filtration is immediately working against the plants, competing so to speak. Biological filtration should never be "encouraged" in planted tanks. The plants are nature's biological filters, let them do their job.


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## Adamson

Shoot well I better get home quick and remove it, I feel awful about poisoning my fish!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Byron

Adamson said:


> Shoot well I better get home quick and remove it, I feel awful about poisoning my fish!
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


At least the Prime is saving them. But I would disonnect this and see if the nitrite dissappears within the week. Remember that even with Prime detoxifying it, it still shows as "nitrite" in tests.


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## Termato

Byron said:


> At least the Prime is saving them. But I would disonnect this and see if the nitrite dissappears within the week. Remember that even with Prime detoxifying it, it still shows as "nitrite" in tests.


So the only real thing you can do to remove the nitrite is going to be water changes.


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## Adamson

Oh yeah I do plenty of water changes normally.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Byron

Termato said:


> So the only real thing you can do to remove the nitrite is going to be water changes.


Yes. Prime detoxifies nitrite but Prime is only effective for 36-48 hours. The detoxified nitrite still shows as "nitrite" in tests.


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## Termato

Byron said:


> Yes. Prime detoxifies nitrite but Prime is only effective for 36-48 hours. The detoxified nitrite still shows as "nitrite" in tests.


Byron, my tap water is reading out at over 40ppm sometimes over 80ppm of Nitrate. I called the water department to find out their readings are between 4ppm to 6.8ppm max. The guy said it was probably in my plumbing system.

Any suggestions?


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## Byron

Termato said:


> Byron, my tap water is reading out at over 40ppm sometimes over 80ppm of Nitrate. I called the water department to find out their readings are between 4ppm to 6.8ppm max. The guy said it was probably in my plumbing system.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Yes. Which test kit are you using? If it is the API, are you aware that Regent #2 should be shaken for 2 minutes before adding the 8 drops? The instructions say 30 seconds, but this frequently gives a false (and much higher) result. If you weren't before, try this and see what you get.

Second, I can't see how the plumbing would affect this. Nitrate for our purposes is caused by organics. People on well water can have high nitrates due to seepage from agricultural things like farming (plants release nitrate into the soil if they have excess) and livestock. But I can't see this coming from plumbing.

Byron.


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## Termato

Byron said:


> Yes. Which test kit are you using? If it is the API, are you aware that Regent #2 should be shaken for 2 minutes before adding the 8 drops? The instructions say 30 seconds, but this frequently gives a false (and much higher) result. If you weren't before, try this and see what you get.
> 
> Second, I can't see how the plumbing would affect this. Nitrate for our purposes is caused by organics. People on well water can have high nitrates due to seepage from agricultural things like farming (plants release nitrate into the soil if they have excess) and livestock. But I can't see this coming from plumbing.
> 
> Byron.


API Master Test Kit.

Regent #2 needs to be shaken for 2 minutes "Vigorously" - Inga walked me through it. I followed the direction from the kit too. I tested it 3 times.

Mine said add 10 drops from each bottle. not 8.









I don't understand how it goes from 6.8ppm to 60ppm from the source to my tap.


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## mrbprint

Byron I like this *The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.* _[unknown source]_

​


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## Termato

mrbprint said:


> Byron I like this *The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian.* _[unknown source]_
> 
> ​


Yes it is so true.

I got a perfect 5ml sample too.... I returned the kit and am going to purchase another one tomorrow at PetSmart when they get their new shipment in (they are receiving new ones tomorrow).

I also removed the two CAE's and gave them back to the store.

tomorrow I receive more plants and I am going to give away the two tetras so my tank should be fine


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## Byron

Termato said:


> API Master Test Kit.
> 
> Regent #2 needs to be shaken for 2 minutes "Vigorously" - Inga walked me through it. I followed the direction from the kit too. I tested it 3 times.
> 
> Mine said add 10 drops from each bottle. not 8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand how it goes from 6.8ppm to 60ppm from the source to my tap.


That's a newer version of the test; mine is 8, but it is 2-3 years old. At least they have corrected the time issue.

Does the water supply have a website? If you can post the link I'll have a look. Something is out here, maybe they have a different measurement. If you multiply their 6.8 by 10 you are close to what you test. We need to be talking apples and apples, not apples and oranges.


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## Termato

Byron said:


> That's a newer version of the test; mine is 8, but it is 2-3 years old. At least they have corrected the time issue.
> 
> Does the water supply have a website? If you can post the link I'll have a look. Something is out here, maybe they have a different measurement. If you multiply their 6.8 by 10 you are close to what you test. We need to be talking apples and apples, not apples and oranges.


I returned the test and am gettinga new one from petsmart tomorrow. I think one of my fish is sick....i posted it under the disease thread.


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## Adamson

I tested my tap water and the results were quite disturbing.

PH: Over 7.6 (No surprise)
Ammonia: .5 (Why..? Not the end of the world I guess)
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 10 (????)

Why are there Nitrates in my tap water? I shook the [2nd] bottle for probably 3 minutes!


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## Termato

Adamson said:


> I tested my tap water and the results were quite disturbing.
> 
> PH: Over 7.6 (No surprise)
> Ammonia: .5 (Why..? Not the end of the world I guess)
> Nitrite: 0
> Nitrate: 10 (????)
> 
> Why are there Nitrates in my tap water? I shook the [2nd] bottle for probably 3 minutes!


Mines came out at 40-60....what is the world coming to...


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## Byron

This is not all that unusual, though disturbing. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate can be present in municipal water supplies, which is why I always recommend aquarists to check their tap water for all three so they know what they are dealing with. And, this can change from time to time. One of our members, aunt kymmie, discovered a sudden and unexpected appearance of nitrite in her tap water.

The ammonia is easily handled. At a level of 0.5 it will easily be handled by live plants at water changes, but I would stay with 30-40% volume changes so as not to overload the system. At higher levels, a conditioner that detoxifies ammonia can be used, this would turn the ammonia to ammonium for 24-48 hours by which time the plants and bacteria would handle it.


The nitrate could be handled similarly, Prime is the only conditioner I know that detoxifies nitrate, there may be others. And the plants will help. With high levels though I might want something along what Termato is asking about, and I'll be interested in other members' views on that. I've never had to deal with nitrates myself.

Byron.


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