# New BioCube 29



## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

Hello everyone. I'm brand new to all this, so any help anyone can offer will be greatly appreciated. I've been wanting a SW aquarium for years and just got one from my fiancee for Christmas.

It's a Bio Cube 29 PC/LED. Iv'e started it off with 40 lbs of live sand and 9 lbs of H2Ocean Pro+ Salt. 

As you can see in the photo, it's still very hazy. I placed a small plastic plant in the back to gauge visibility over the next few days.

Next step is to hit the books and do some research so I can decide which direction I want to head and what type of environment I want to end up with. Right now, I'm thinking a small reef environment with a couple fish, but not sure what species yet.


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## Benm1020 (Apr 3, 2011)

Hello, i just have set up a jbj 28 which is almost the same, you are going to need live rock for biological filtration. You will need close to 30 or so lbs of live rock to provide enough surface area for bacteria (good bacteria) to grow. Im sure reefing madness will come on here and give his normal quickstart guide.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Ask and you shall receive. I tried to make this as simple as possible. Any questions, fire any.

#1-Dry Rock, there are a few hitchhikers on Live Rock that people want to stay away from, so they opt for using Dry Rock, or Dead Rock. Macro Rock is a good place to start looking for that. Either way you go you will need a minimum of 1lb per gallon.

#2-Replacement filter media like filter floss and activated carbon (if you get a filter) Which is really not necessary.

#3-Multiple Power heads (2 or 3) 10x your water volume for just a Fish Only With Live Rock, and at least 20x your water volume for a Reef Tank. So lets say your going reef, and you have a 100g tank, you would need flow in that tank at minimum of 2000gph, or 2 1000gph power heads.

#4-Protein Skimmer, rated at 2 times your water volume. Unless your tank is under 30g, in which case you can do 10% water changes a week to rid the system of detrius. But, you'll have to watch the water parameters close, if things go haywire, you'll have to do more water changes.

#5-Saltwater Test Kits. Reef Test Kit. Test for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, PH, Phosphates, Calcium, ALK and Magnesium.

#6-Saltwater fish food. Mysis Shrimp, Squid, Cyclopease, Algae Sheets, Romaine . Flake food is not really a good food to feed your marine fish.

#7-Aquarium vacuum. This one is iffy. Most don't use one, if you have enough flow in the tank you won’t need one

#8-Rubber kitchen gloves

#9-Fish net

#10-Two, clean, never used before, 5-gallon buckets

#11-Aquarium thermometer, digital being the best.

#12-Brush with plastic bristles (old tooth brush) - needed for cleaning the live rock if you don't get Fully Cured Live Rock.

#13-Power Strip, possibly GFCI outlets by the tank.

#14-Optional but definitely recommend getting a Reverse Osmosis or RO/Deionization filter for the make-up water, and a barrel for storing the water.

#15-Possibly a Quarantine Tank for your new fish. They sit in here for a few weeks to kill off parasites and bacteria, to keep it from getting in your main tank

#16-Heater rated for your size tank.

#17-Saltwater Mix. Marine Salt. Instant Ocean is the cheap Salt that beginners and Advanced use alike.

#18-Saltwater Hydrometer or even better a Refractometer, which is more accurate. There is also a Digital Meter that is way advanced if you have the cash.

#19-Aquarium filter (not absolutely necessary if running with adequate amounts of live rock, but nice to have if you need to use a mechanical filter or activated carbon, or GFO and such)

#20-Aquarium substrate such as live sand or crushed coral. Some go bare Bottom, others choose the 2-3" bottom, others, more advanced will try the Deep Sand Bed, which is over 6" deep.

Volusion Demo Store

Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle and Cycling. Methods for Ammonia, Nitrite Removal.

aquarium heater in Aquarium & Fish | eBay

power heads in Pumps | eBay

New 0 10 Salinity Refractometer Salt Water Aquarium | eBay

MarcoRocks Aquarium Products

Bulk Dry Live Rock & Live Sand - Bulk Reef Supply

Live Rock and Live Sand: Live Saltwater Aquarium Rock and Sand

Fish & Aquarium Supplies: Marine Substrates, Sand, Crushed Coral, Live Sand

Aquarium Lighting, Light Information; Reef & Planted, PAR, Watt, Kelvin.

http://live-plants.com/

What Your Coral Needs | Successful Reef Keeping

t-5 lighting in Home & Garden | eBay

cree led aquarium in Lighting | eBay

Aquarium Salt Mix: Salt for Saltwater and Freshwater Fish Aquariums


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the comments and help. I can't wait to really get started. Of course everything is closed today, so will have to wait til tomorrow to get out and buy the live rock.


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## Benm1020 (Apr 3, 2011)

I would not buy all live rock because it gets really expensive around $8 a pound, i would get 10 lbs of liverock then the rest dry rock or do all dry rock, but if you have the money and cant wait you can get all live rock and it will cycle in less than a week
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Benm1020 said:


> I would not buy all live rock because it gets really expensive around $8 a pound, i would get 10 lbs of liverock then the rest dry rock or do all dry rock, but if you have the money and cant wait you can get all live rock and it will cycle in less than a week
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


It has to be all Fully Cured Live Rock, in order for the tank to cycle in a few days.


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

Reefing Madness said:


> It has to be all Fully Cured Live Rock, in order for the tank to cycle in a few days.


What if I'm not in a hurry? If I don't need it to cycle fast, just want it to cycle right? Is it worth spending the extra money or should I do the partial live, partial dry?


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Not worth it in my book. There are so many cool things that come on Live Rock, but there are some horrible things that will make you pull your hair out. I'd just go with all Macro or Dry rock. You can bring home stuff to add to the tank, that you really want in there instead of wakingup one morning and screaming.


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## MetalArm3 (Jun 22, 2011)

There is also Eco-Friendly "man made" rock that comes fully cured with no hitch hikers. I try to to lessen the human impact has on the environment, especially in such a great hobby. That goes along with captive raised fish and coral propagation.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=393+3122&pcatid=3122

MetalArm3
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

MetalArm3 said:


> There is also Eco-Friendly "man made" rock that comes fully cured with no hitch hikers. I try to to lessen the human impact has on the environment, especially in such a great hobby. That goes along with captive raised fish and coral propagation.
> 
> Live Rock for Coral Reef Aquariums: "Real Reef" Eco Friendly Live Rock - Fully Cured
> 
> ...


Live Rock for Coral Reef Aquariums: "Real Reef" Eco Friendly Live Rock - Fully Cured

For the Cost, I'd still go with Macro Rocks:
http://www.marcorocks.com/


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## MetalArm3 (Jun 22, 2011)

Very True. The most important thing is to do your research first and establish a budget.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

Thanks again for the comments. Found a couple great local resources for equipment and critters. I'll get back to ya in a few days when the water starts to clear.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*Day 3*

Again, thanks to everyone for their input.

I found a great deal on some "Real Reef" live rock at a local supplier and decided to go with it. I added it yesterday along with starting to introduce MicroBacter.

The difference in water clarity this morning is incredible.

I also bought a test kit and plan to begin testing the water this evening. How often should I test?


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Testing once a week is fine.


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*Yet another Noobie question....*

So, now that the water is clearing, there is sediment that settled on the sides of the tank and back wall. should I be doing anything to clean that off such as brushing or scraping? Or, should I just ignore it and it will eventually get cleaned by the CUC when I introduce them?


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

You can wipe it off if you'd like.
Aquarium Glass Algae Scrapers: Glass Only Mag-Float
Kent Marine Pro-Scraper II: Aquarium Maintenance


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*Filtration.....?*

In reading through the posts, I'm seeing differing opinions on filtration. With the BioCube 29, should I be using the bio balls and charcoal filter that are included, or is the live rock and protein skimmer enough?


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Live Rock and Protein Skimmer are sufficient. You can use that filter area to run GFO or Carbon from time to time.


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*Ready for cleaning crew?*

As of today, the water parameters appear to be ready to go. 

Temp: 76.1
Salinity: 1.025 g/cm3
Alkalinity: 8 dKH
Calcium: 440 mg/L
Phosphate: 0
Nitrate: 5 mg/L

I'll update soon with the new additions.


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## Benm1020 (Apr 3, 2011)

RichCotte said:


> In reading through the posts, I'm seeing differing opinions on filtration. With the BioCube 29, should I be using the bio balls and charcoal filter that are included, or is the live rock and protein skimmer enough?


I have my build the jbj 28 which is very similar, i think you should put macro algae (chaeto) in the place where the bioballs are ( actually whatever is on top) so you can put a light overhead and run that to pull out extra nutrients. I dont know what biocubes filtration is like but the jbj has a 3 layer tray right where it the overflow is and i run my 3 layers like this. Top- chaeto algae, Middle- filter sponge, bottom- purigen
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Benm1020 said:


> I have my build the jbj 28 which is very similar, i think you should put macro algae (chaeto) in the place where the bioballs are ( actually whatever is on top) so you can put a light overhead and run that to pull out extra nutrients. I dont know what biocubes filtration is like but the jbj has a 3 layer tray right where it the overflow is and i run my 3 layers like this. Top- chaeto algae, Middle- filter sponge, bottom- purigen
> _Posted via Mobile Device_



Very good idea here.


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

RichCotte said:


> As of today, the water parameters appear to be ready to go.
> 
> Temp: 76.1
> Salinity: 1.025 g/cm3
> ...


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*Circulation pumps?*

Thanks for the input and idea on the algae in the internal sump area. I'll definitely take a look at doing that.

How about circulation pumps? I have one of the small Oceanic 250 GPM pumps that I want to add in. Should it push the flow in the same direction as the water return from the main pump, or should it be set to create a competing current?


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

Benm1020 said:


> I have my build the jbj 28 which is very similar, i think you should put macro algae (chaeto) in the place where the bioballs are ( actually whatever is on top) so you can put a light overhead and run that to pull out extra nutrients. I dont know what biocubes filtration is like but the jbj has a 3 layer tray right where it the overflow is and i run my 3 layers like this. Top- chaeto algae, Middle- filter sponge, bottom- purigen
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Are there any posts on here that you're aware of that detail how to set this up?


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

RichCotte said:


> Thanks for the input and idea on the algae in the internal sump area. I'll definitely take a look at doing that.
> 
> How about circulation pumps? I have one of the small Oceanic 250 GPM pumps that I want to add in. Should it push the flow in the same direction as the water return from the main pump, or should it be set to create a competing current?


Ive found that competing current will make more random flow, out of hitting each others flow in the tank.


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

Reefing Madness said:


> Ive found that competing current will make more random flow, out of hitting each others flow in the tank.


So.....competing flows are better?


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

I don't know if they are better, jsut giving you my insight on what I've done before. I've had 4 poewr heads in my tank, on the back wall, all blowing forward, it blows everything to the back of the tank, nto a bad thing, you can't see all the crap, but, the skimmer nor the sump gets it, and it accumulates in the tank. I've got my powerheads now, on each end of the tank, blowing at each other, makes it a bit more random. Current kind of goes the same way, but breaks up now and then.


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## RichCotte (Dec 25, 2012)

*First occupants*

So, just added the first of the CUC to the tank. 

5 Red Leg Hermits
5 Margarita Snails

Plan on watching them for a week and retesting the parameters before adding additional crew.

Any suggestions on an optimal mix (type and numbers) of CUC?

:redyay:


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## Reefing Madness (Jun 26, 2011)

Turbo Snails, Bumble Bee Snails. Turbis are big, Bumble Bees are small. Hard to put a number on them. I only have 5 Turbos in a 240t tank. Go like 5 Turbis and 15 bumblebees, that outta do it.


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## Benm1020 (Apr 3, 2011)

RichCotte said:


> Are there any posts on here that you're aware of that detail how to set this up?


Look at my build going on called just ordered my jbj 28 cf quad i just posted what mine looks like it
_Posted via Mobile Device_

Edit- ill just copy and paste my post 




Benm1020 said:


> Alright for other people to know how i set up my back compartments i have the heater in its designated spot, the jbj skimmer kit in its designated spot, the filter tray in its spot i am running top-chaeto middle - filter sponge bottom- purigen
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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