# Getting rid of green hair algae.



## otter (Aug 10, 2012)

This stuff suffocates my plants and its ridiculous.

I've heard of things that you can buy at the pet store that get rid of algae.... What is that? Like liquid pesticides for fish tanks?
Tell me, are those any good?
Do they work?
Any tips on getting rid of this troublesome algae?


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## cwmorrow (Dec 25, 2011)

I've gotten rid of it by keeping the lights off for a day or two, especially in the tank receives natural light.


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## otter (Aug 10, 2012)

awesome I will try that


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Never use any of those algaecide. They can kill plants, and they may harm fish and bacteria.

Light is the cause of all green and red algae. The light intensity has to be sufficient for the plants but no more, and the light duration must be sufficient to balance the required nutrients. Light should be the limiting factor to plant growth, by which we mean that is the the "requirement" that first runs out. If this is the case, algae doesn't stand a chance.:lol:

The blackout mentioned will obvious do something to most algae, but if the initial issue is not resolved, it will only come back. Knowing more about your setup (light and fertilization) may allow some of us to suggest any issues.

And, you are sure it is hair algae, and not brush/beard algae?

Byron.


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## otter (Aug 10, 2012)

I think you are correct, it is brush/beard algae. 
Um I have a 15 watt bulb on a 55 gallon tank and most of my high lighting plants are dying and also very affected.
my ph is really high, around 9 or even 10. I cant tell because my testing strips only go to 9.
Everything else is perfect.
The KH is 240 though, and the GH is 0.
I see it worst on my anubias and java fern.
I use plant food every few weeks when I remember.
Its just called "plant food" I got it at petsmart. heh.


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## AbbeysDad (Mar 28, 2011)

I might add that although light intensity and duration is a significant factor, you might also consider water chemistry. I have found that high phosphates and/or nitrates can result in algae problems. Resolving these along with appropriate lighting may be the answer.

Many water chemistry issues are addressed with simple weekly water changes. Perhaps you need to increase the volume and/or frequency of your partial water changes (in addition to the lighting issue) ?
Failing the above there are synthetic resins that adsorb phosphates and nitrates effectively removing them from the water column.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

otter said:


> I think you are correct, it is brush/beard algae.
> Um I have a 15 watt bulb on a 55 gallon tank and most of my high lighting plants are dying and also very affected.
> my ph is really high, around 9 or even 10. I cant tell because my testing strips only go to 9.
> Everything else is perfect.
> ...


I need more detail please. On the light, can you be more specific: fluorescent tube (presumably), and what length; what type is it (name, Kelvin, etc)? The tank is a standard 4-foot long 55g, correct? Knowing this may help me to suggest something re the plants.

Algae (and brush/beard is the most common problem, which is why I suspected it) as I mentioned is due to light and nutrients being out of balance so the plants cannot use either, in this case anyway. Fertilizers have to be regular, as plants need food (nutrients) regularly just as we do. But here we come to what is in this particular fertilizer. What brand is it--Topfin (a Petsmart brand)? Does it list the nutrients?

Byron.


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## cwmorrow (Dec 25, 2011)

I thought the plants would out compete algae for food.
An example is my outdoor ponds, which have green water in the Spring, but become clear when anacharis and hornwort begin growing.

I've used less light to rid tanks of algae with some with sand and plant tabs, some with gravel and earth, and some with eco complete. I'm cutting down on light now in my new Tanganyika tank, sand, plant tabs, typical fluorescent tubes, vallisneria and beard algae.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Plants will out-compete algae but only when things are balanced. The light must be balanced by available nutrients. Light should be the limiting factor. And the biology of on ourdoor pond is very different from an indoor enclosed system aquarium.


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## cwmorrow (Dec 25, 2011)

Byron said:


> And the biology of on ourdoor pond is very different from an indoor enclosed system aquarium.


I see. 
And there is certainly much more room for error with a pond.


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## otter (Aug 10, 2012)

photo1_zpsdb149c20.jpg picture by Audiepop - Photobucket[user]=116906640&filters[recent]=1&filters[media_type]=video&sort=1&o=1
Here is the tank, and i beleive it is top fin plant food, or some brand like that. maybe it was aqueon? 
it just says on the bottle that it gives plants the nurtients they need.
erm, I do weekly water changes of %10.

The water chemistry is not ideal.
The GH si 0
The KH is 240 
and the PH is around 9, and it wont go down, im guessing thats because of the high KH?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

otter said:


> photo1_zpsdb149c20.jpg picture by Audiepop - Photobucket[user]=116906640&filters[recent]=1&filters[media_type]=video&sort=1&o=1
> Here is the tank, and i beleive it is top fin plant food, or some brand like that. maybe it was aqueon?
> it just says on the bottle that it gives plants the nurtients they need.
> erm, I do weekly water changes of %10.
> ...


That's quite a nice aquascape. I would just get a plain background, something as simple as black construction paper from a craft/hobby store. It will really expand the space, and the fish and plants will really stand out.

On the parameters, yes, the high KH buffers the pH so it is very unlikely to lower. The only way to achieve this is to dilute the water in the aquarium by replacing some of it with "pure" water (rainwater is ideal if this is collected safely, or distilled or RO water). I go into this in the article on hardness and pH:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-articles/water-hardness-ph-freshwater-aquarium-73276/
and can explain more if asked.

On the plant food, if it is now used up I would get a good product like Seachem's *Flourish Comprehensive Supplement* [I think Petsmart carries this]. Just make sure it is the Flourish Comprehensive, as Seachem make several products in this line and this one is the complete basic that will help.

Byron.


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## otter (Aug 10, 2012)

Thanks this helps a lot.
I will head off to the store, currently, it isnt really getting worse, its just attacking the high light plants that where slowly dying


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