# My first 54 gallon corner saltwater tank



## VerdantGrotto

Since my freshwater is doing great and is at full capacity I've managed to convince the Mrs. To let me build a saltwater tank. Not only did she agree to it but it would make the room look "off-centered" and then she suggested we get TWO!  . That being said, I'm starting the stand build immediately! I will be posting pics of the build as it progresses. 

On another note, the total build will require a lot of research as I have never ventured into the marine portion of fish-keeping. What little bit of research I've done has only created a million more questions... So here goes

What is the "best" filtration setup and why? 

What are the pros and cons of each filtration setup?

Protein skimmer , is it worth the money?

What is the easiest coral to keep?

Does live rock come in one color only?

What are some suggested fish tank stocking ideas?

...and the list shall go on and on :lol:


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## VerdantGrotto

Does the same general rule apply of "an inch of fish per gallon of the tank" in saltwater?


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## RSully

Inch per gallon definitely doesn't work for SW/Marine. I don't know the exact ratio but it's quite a bit lower. Take a look at Live Aquaria and look at there recommended tank sizes for some of their fish. Protein skimmer is a must from what I understand once you get above 30 gallons. (some get away without one on a bit bigger tanks but it will require more maintenance. Live rock does come in different shades. I'll leave the filtration to others but will say the majority of it comes from your live rock. You'll need 1 to 1 1/2 pds of LR per gallon. The easiest of corals are Green star polyps, mushrooms, Kenya tree, xenia, zoas etc. but all have their pros and cons.


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## VerdantGrotto

what size of skimmer should I get? (GPH)
I have a 54 gallon corner possible future reef tank


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## wake49

For a skimmer, I would get one that rates for 125 - 200 gallons. Always over shoot your actual tank size when it comes to skimmers. 

For filtration, the Berlin method is widely popular in this hobby. That is an abundance of live rock, a deep sand bed and a protein skimmer. Anaerobic bacteria deep seeded in the rock and in the deepest parts of the sand convert nitrates into nitrogen gas, which leaves the system naturally. The skimmer removes dissolved organic solids before they break down into nitrates. 

54 corner tanks can be difficult to light properly because of their shape. You might want a wide LED fixture or a metal halide to light it correctly...


Sent from Petguide.com Free App


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## VerdantGrotto

Thanks  

I got the aquarium ordered today :-D 
54 gallon corner tank to be picked up friday 

I guess i better get working on the stand for this tank. 
On that note, I am a little confused as to the size of sump I would need. I found a few products that are definitely cheaper than retail stores around me (400$). The one i found says it's rated for 75-125 gallon tanks and it's *$200*. This one is smaller than the $400 one the LFS manager suggested I get. So the breakdown is (A) $200 Berlin style sump (20Gallon capacity) rated for 75-125 gallons. Or (B) LFS suggestion which is approximately 30 gallons. What would you buy?:|


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## badxgillen

You could just buy a cheap used tank and make you own sump with baffles either acrylic or preferably glass. If you want a prefab one make sure its dimensions will allow you to utilize the equipment you are choosing for you build. It really sucks to find out later on that your skimmer wont fit or you cant add a reactor that you wanted.


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## VerdantGrotto

I know have the sump tanks purchased and I'm currently trimming the baffle walls. I had a quote to have them done and they were 38.75$ each... I'll be doing it myself, they're just sump baffles. How hard could it be?


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## VerdantGrotto

*Pistol shrimp compatibility with other shrimp*

Are Banded coral shrimp ok to house in a corner 54 gallon tank with a red and white pistol shrimp?


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## badxgillen

Yeah the shrimp should stay out of each others way.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Reef Tank Livestock list Questions*

After research I've narrowed down the list of inhabitants one of my two 54 corner reef tanks will hold. Please have a look at the list below and respond with your thoughts. I will assign a letter to them so It'll be easier to answer the top question I have for all of these awesome creatures. 

*(A) *_Neon Goby _- 
Quantity = 1
Max Size = 2"
Question = *Are these fish compatible with BS Shrimp Gobies?*

*(B) *_Blue Spotted Shrimp Goby - _
Quantity = 1
Max Size = 4"
Question = *How deep should the sand be for this fish and a Red banded Pistol shrimp?*

*(C) *_A. Percula _or _A. Ocellaris_
Quantity = 2
Max Size = 4"
Question = *What is the easiest/hardiest anemone these clowns will accept?*

*(D) *_Bangaii Cardinal_
Quantity = 2 to 4
Max Size = 3.5"
Question = *Should I get 2 , 3 or 4 ? Is it possible to breed them successfully in a display tank? *

*(E) *_Red Banded Pistol Shrimp_
Quantity = 1
Max Size = 2"
Question = *Should I occasionally get Ghost shrimp to feed them?*

*(F) *_Fire Shrimp _
Quantity = 1
Max Size = 2"
Question = *Why should I get 2 of these? Is it imperative to there "stress level"?*

*(G) *_Banded Coral Shrimp_
Quantity = 1
Max Size = *?*
Question = *Are any of the above shrimp and or fish destructive to Softies , Corals and/or Anemones ?*


*Also: *

*(X) Is the above list an OK fish load for a 54 Gallon Corner Reef tank?*

*(Y) Are there too many shrimp?*

*(Z) Does anyone want to buy a Kidney so I can pay for all of this?:lol:*


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## Chesh

I'm sorry I can't help with stocking, but I'm so laughing about the kidney comment! >.<
Hope you get the input (and funds!) you need, cuz' I can't wait to see you get this beauty together!


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## badxgillen

A: Do you mean Blue Spot goby? If so I am not too sure about it as the blue spot pavanoides gets rather large and I bet would try and eat a much smaller fish.

B: You can get away with a inch,inch and a half if you want and they will move it around. You can always add more if you are unpleased with the look. Make sure your rock work is secure and touching the bottom of the tank.

C: A bubble tip anemone that is captive raised and local,green or a rose.

D: If your tank has enough room you can keep a few but usualy they are best in pairs.

E: Nah just go with some frozen foods of reputable brands.

F: I have kept fire shrimp singly in several tanks for some time without issues,I would love any input as to why you would want two over one.

G: Everythign you have listed is reefsafe although some times the pistols will steal loos coral for there den.


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## VerdantGrotto

About the fire shrimp, I had read somewhere (I believe it was live aquaria.com) that they are social with there own kind and you should get two in an effort to relieve stresses from captive life. I'd prefer to have the fish load available for other creatures so it would be more diverse but I am perfectly fine with having multiple specimens of this awesome creature


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## VerdantGrotto

Any other opinions on the stocking list?


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## aussieJJDude

Gotta say, I love the stocking list!
It sounds super awesome!
Love the kidney comment, i get back to ya when I need one - if so, could I get bulk??


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## VerdantGrotto

I could use some help with an invertebrate / coral stocking list. I'm thinking softies , a mushroom or two and some kind of anemone or whatever a clown couple will take too ( I know it's not required but I like the interaction )


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## VerdantGrotto

*Sump DIY*

I have purchased two 20Gallon tanks to use as sumps for these Reef tanks. I have two 54 Gallon Corners that will eventually become Reef tanks.

I am in the middle of creating the baffle walls for the sumps using small acrylic sheets. Everything was going well until I tried to use a jigsaw. In hind-sight I would suggest to other DIY folks to use a thicker material than .093"... Quarter inch should be sufficient if the cuts are performed in junction with masking tape and the edge being cut close to a firm backing piece. Such as clamping it to a work table. I have .093" thick acrylic sheets and the jigsaw cracked it.


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## badxgillen

Well that sucks. On another note the thinner acrylic can bow more wich can lead to stress in the seams that you try and seal. Sometimes they bend enough to cause the sides of the baffle to leak.


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## VerdantGrotto

I assume the baffle walls are essentially for controlling the turbulence in the sump. Basically they're a wave break. My thoughts were that since there wasn't a heavy load against the wall that this stuff would be sufficient. In hindsight, I wish I would have purchased a thicker sheet of acrylic instead of trying to save money with a thin sheet. They just start getting really expensive after the 0.093" thick material. This entire system is a learning process for me which is great because I have a second 54G Corner Reef I will be building after this one:-D. I did get the baffle walls fabricated though. They came out OK. Without the specialized equipment that manufacturers have it makes it a little less accurate. I successfully made the cuts with a Router and a small bit. I simply clamped the baffle to a small sheet of plywood to use as backing support piece and made the cut. FYI... If your try to cut more than one at a time they will fuse together because the acrylic gets so hot that it melts (They were literally welded together) Let's just say I'm glad they'll be under the cabinet. They're not much to look at but they'll do just fine.

Also, The stocking list has changed slightly. Instead of a Blue spot Goby I'd like to get the *DIAGONAL BAR PRAWN GOBY*. I found them on liveaquaria.


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## VerdantGrotto

I've read a different suggestion on a hundred different links so I'll ask instead. Every answer seems vague. What size of a return pump should I get ? I

I will have a 54 gallon corner reef tank. With a Coralife protein skimmer in a Berlin sump system. The skimmer is a 125 gallon with a flow rate of 500 gph. 
I am considering either a maxi jet 600 or two of the next step down in different locations.

What setup would you suggest? Which power heads and which return pump? 

Multiple replies would be great!


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## badxgillen

Do you mean the maxi jets as your circulation pumps and a different pump as far as a return? If you are using a maxi jet as the return then I recommend a 1200 as they have the oomph you will need for the head height.


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## badxgillen

You may want a larger return pump but that may depend on a few factors. I personaly don't run too powerful of a return pump as it diminishes the dwell time of the water and the skimmer. It would be nice to know more about your overflow and return system. Do you have any elbows? Whats the diameter of the return, Is it a classic drilled in the corner overflow? Do you have multiple return lines to feed into?


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## VerdantGrotto

The maxi jets are for the flow in the display area.


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## VerdantGrotto

According to the schematics I've drawn there will be two 90 degree elbows on the inlet. Which would be a 1" ID pipe and there will be two 90 degree elbow on the return line plus the bend at the discharge location. I have no idea what the ID is or should be for this line. 

The overflow system is a drilled tank / reef ready portioned tank. 

20 gallon DIY Berlin style sump

The head height will be approximately 3 to 4 feet


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## VerdantGrotto

In retrospect, this system isn't built yet and the equipment hasn't even been ordered. This is an attempt to acquire information from experienced fellow aquarist as to what to get and how to build this system. If anyone has any input please don't hesitate to do so. Thank you ahead of time and btw... There will be a lot of pictures:-D


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## Chesh

I wish I had input, but I'm a freshie just following along for the ride and to learn what I can along the way. . . and, eventually, for drooling over the promised pictures when things start to pull together - and beyond!!! Best of luck to you - this project is going to be a fun one, I think!!!


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## VerdantGrotto

*20 Gallon Sump Build*

After endless late nights searching the Internet for Pre-made Sumps, I decided to build my own. The cheapest I could find for a decent Sump was $200. I need two of them (Twin 54 Gallon Reef Tanks) so this was a minimum of $400 buck and that's with out Skimmers , Socks , return pump , heaters , etc... Some of the Items I will be purchasing and not skimping on but the Sump seems like an easy way to "Save" several hundred bucks. On that note, I started combing the internet for DIY videos , articles , threads and anything that would help me understand the layout of and exactly how a Sump tank works. A nice hidden gem I discovered was on the Aqueon website. When you look at the pictures of there pre-made sump tanks you get a nice 3-D image of what a typical sump looks like. I personally am going with the Berlin Style setup but I'm sure the General Idea of the following steps would apply to any setup.


Please Refrain from commenting or interjecting any posts until the DIY steps are all posted. Thanks , VerdantGrotto


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 1*

Obviously you'll need to acquire a tank from somewhere. Choose a tank size that's appropriate for the size of your DT (Display Tank). I'm not sure which sizes are adequate but I am going with a 20 Gallon for my 54 Corner. When these are full they should be at or slightly less than Half the capacity of the Sump tank. Meaning, If you have a 20 Gallon sump, you should have approximately 10 gallons in the sump or less. This is so if there is a power or equipment failure the overflow shouldn't cause the Sump to over fill before you can get to it and hopefully prevent a flood...

As far as acquiring the tanks there are several options :

*(A)* One could spend a weekend visiting Garage Sales within a 50 mile radius and maybe come across a tank setup for very cheap... Good Luck

*(B)* Build a tank. I personally don't have much experience with this but I'm sure there are numerous articles and videos on it. This also seems like an inexpensive way to do it if you have the ability to do so. It would add the additional time and effort to the build though.

*(C) *Wait for a Sale at a local fish store. Several of my local fish stores frequently have tanks on sale but they're usually the odd ones that don't sell well. They also randomly have a $1 per Gallon sale , which I believe is an effort to keep up with the cheaper PETCO/PETSMART places. Petco and Petsmart frequently have a $1 per Gallon sale on tanks and it always seems to be around some holiday... Labor Day , Thanksgiving , etc... The tanks at Petco/Petsmart are usually the generic 10G , 20G , 30G , 55G and so on... This is the option I selected. (I bought two 20 Gallon tanks, one for each of my 54G Reef tanks).

_Tip: Verify that the sump will fit in the space desired. Under the cabinet , closet , etc..._


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 2*

The next step is to acquire all the tools necessary and setup an area to work.

*Items I will be using:*

*(A)* Several Dry Clean Hand Towels (I suggest washing these without using laundry detergent and fabric softener sheets)

*(B)* Coarse Grit Sandpaper (Sponges are Nice)

*(C)* Quick Grip Clamps (I prefer Irwin soft grip style)

*(D)* Straight Edge Ruler and Sharpie (Remove all ink prior to tank setup)

*(E)* Acrylic Sheets (I purchase 1' square pieces from Home Depot $5 each)

*(F)* Small Piece of plywood or OSB (A little bigger than 1' square)

*(G)* Hand-held Plunge Router (A sawhorse table will help also)

*(H)* Easy Peel Blue Painters masking tape (Width of tape at your discretion)

*(I)* Seamstress Tape and/or Tape Measure (Measure and plan everything)

*(J)* Nitrile Gloves (Keeps the silicone off of your fingers)

*(K)* Razor Blade and Alcohol lens cleaning wipes (Use caution with Razors)

*(L)* Aquarium Sealant (I purchased the aquarium specific stuff from Petco $8)

_Note: I've heard that one could also purchase Clear silicone from a Hardware store for much less as long as it's the kind that doesn't have Mildew preventers in it. However, most of these state they aren't designed for below water levels and some even specifically state that they aren't for Aquarium Use. I'm not sure about that but I personally like the piece of mind that the stuff I'm using won't wipe out my livestock down the road. Something about losing 150$ in fish and inverts to save $5 doesn't seem like a wise decision... Which is why I went with Aquarium sealant._


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 3 Baffle Walls*

The next step would be to create the Baffle Walls.
In a Berlin Style sump, this consists of 3 walls. Two of which are identical. 

The first thing you'll need to do is to measure the width of the tank in the ID (Inside Dimension). This needs to be as precise as possible. Scribe this number down because it will be the width of your baffle wall. I actually decreased the number by a 1/16th of an inch for ease of placement but the closer you can get to the actual dimensions the easier it will be to secure them with sealant. These aren't a structural joint. You're just trying to seal the edges so the water has to go through the ports you will cut.

The second step on the baffle walls will be to measure the dimensions and mark them on the acrylic sheets with a Sharpie. Accomplish this by measuring with a tape measure on both ends and then use the ruler or straight edge to scribe the line. This is easier by clamping the ruler to the acrylic sheet and your piece of plywood. 

The next step is the water ports. The two identical walls are the ones closer to the ends. These walls will help establish the height of water levels and there lack of turbulence. The middle wall is between the skimmer chamber and the return utility pump. See Images below for what they should look like. The quantities I have below are for (2) Sump tanks. If you are creating just one Sump the quantity will be half of what I have below.

Once all the cut lines have been marked you can proceed to the next step. 

_Note: The width of your Baffle Walls is depicted by the ID of your Sump Tank_


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 3 Continued...*

Once all of your lines have been scribed you can cut the perimeter dimensions with an Acrylic Knife. Clamp the Acrylic sheet to a Work table with a sharp edge. Rounded edges could cause the sheet to break at the wrong place or irregularly. I found this is easier by sandwiching the sheet between a 1" x 4' and the work table. By using the acrylic knife, score the line where your cut will be. Don't apply too much pressure. You're just trying to score the line as accurate as possible. Repeat the score line over and over. This might seem redundant but if you want a clean line this will take about 50 drags across the line. Don't Rush! You can break the scrap piece off when you're more than 3/4's of the way through the acrylic sheet thickness. I however, went almost completely through the sheet before i applied even pressure along the scrap piece to break it off. It practically fell off for me. _Test the fit in your sump tank. It should almost be a snug fit._ You'll have a total of 3 Baffle walls

Next you'll cut the ports. This is accomplished by clamping the sheet very securely to your small piece of plywood and the work table. Be sure to allow room for the "footprint" of you handheld Router. First drill a Pilot hole (_very slowly so you don't crack the acrylic_) and then by using the router travel along the edges of your sharpie mark. Be sure to remove all the ink with the router (_Not sure if the ink is toxic to fish_).

Image 1: Clamp location 
Image 2 : Skimmer to Sponge Filter Wall (Chamber 2 to Chamber 3)
Image 3: Sock Filter to Skimmer Wall (Chamber 1 to Chamber 2)
Image 4 : *DONT USE A JIGSAW TO CUT ANY EDGES! THEY WILL CRACK!*


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 4*

Once you have the 3 Baffle Walls cut you'll need to clean the edges. I suggest doing this by using a coarse Sanding Sponge. This will also knock down any sharp edges and prep the perimeter for secure bonding of the Silicone sealant. Don't forget to clean the edges of the Ports. 

_Scuff the perimeter of the Baffle walls approximately 1/4" to 1/2"_


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 4*

Clean all surfaces thoroughly. 

The acrylic sheets can be cleaned by scrubbing them under running tap water with a wash cloth. 

The Tank can be cleaned by scraping the glue off with a Razor blade and scrubbing any left over residue off with a lens cleaning wipe or Rubbing alcohol. Once you've got the display sign glue off rinse the entire tank (Inside and Out) with a Garden hose. 

Once these items are clean, dry them off with clean dry towels. Making sure to thoroughly dry all areas. Water could prevent adhesion of the silicone.


_NEVER USE DISH SOAP OR AMMONIA BASED PRODUCTS SUCH AS WINDEX!_


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## VerdantGrotto

*Tip*

Always carry the tanks by the base. Firmly gripping the trim. If the tanks are too large then ask for help. I'd rather ask for help then ask for a broom to sweep up a bunch of glass...


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## VerdantGrotto

*Tip*

Only use clean dry towels to dry the water off after rinsing. The key here is to not contaminate any portion of the tank with detergents or chemicals.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Tip*

By using a razor blade you can get the bulk of glue used to affix display signs off. Finish removing glue with rubbing alcohol (Evaporates quickly). I found it's just as easy to use Lens cleaning wipes like the kind you use for your iPad.

Inspect the Sump tank by holding a flash light parallel to the surface of the glass. This will high-light any residue on the tank.

Be sure to thoroughly inspect prior to rinsing the tank off with a garden hose.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Tip*

When rinsing the tank out with a garden hose be sure to do this over soft grass, cardboard or a wood deck. This will minimize the chance of damaging the glass on hard surfaces such as Bricks, Concrete or Rocks. When you think you've finished rinsing it off... Rinse it off one more time (Just to be sure). _Don't forget to carry from the base._


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## Chesh

Loving these lovely step-by-step postings! Lots of interesting info here to help newbies along! ^.^


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 5*

Once you have the tank clean and returned to the work table, grab a notepad and a pencil. You'll need to measure the length of the ID and record this info. You'll also need to record the dimensions of the equipment you'll be placing in each of the chambers. For my sump, I'll have a filter sock and bracket in the first chamber, a 125Gallon Coralife Protein Skimmer in the second chamber, technically the sponge goes in the third chamber and then the Utility Return pump in the fourth chamber. 

Using the scratch paper, sketch the layout of the chambers with the recorded dimensions. This will help you work through any flaws with the size of the chambers.

_Keep in mind that you may want to add additional equipment in the future such as Phosphate or Calcium Reactors_


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 6*

Using the baffle walls as a guide, trim the size of the sponge filter to fit your sump. I recommend having the filter approximately 1/16" to a 1/4" too big. This will have your filter fit nice and snug which will keep it in place and prevent it from being easily dislodged. Don't have it too snug because then it'll be too difficult to remove for maintenance cleaning...


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 7*

Gather your equipment and set the sump and the tools on a work table with plenty of space to move around. Once you're ready, make a mock up of the finished product using the masking tape, a measuring tape and your sketch. It's a good idea to triple check the measurements to your sketch and ensure the baffle walls are in the correct location. Once you're satisfied with the mock up you can use a strip of masking tape to mark the exact location of each wall. When you're applying the silicone the sponge filter needs to be removed.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 8*

Almost ready to apply silicone. 

Remove the 3rd wall (the one between the sponge filter and where the utility pump will be). 

Now that you've got only two walls in the sump, secure them on one side firmly with masking tape. You'll be applying the silicone to one side of two of the walls. Be sure to place the tape so it can be easily removed after the sealant has cured or is firm enough to not be marred.

Now either measure from the wall you have secure (or if you used masking tape to mark their locations when you mocked it up) set and secure the second wall. 

It's easier to mark all of the baffle wall locations when you have the project mocked up. You will probably be moving the walls in and out so it'll definitely save some time. Just be sure to place the location marked tape high enough to not interfere with the baffle walls and there installation.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 9*

With two of the walls secure and your equipment ready, don vinyl or nitrile type gloves. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the instructions on the back of the container. 

Depending on how wide the gap is between your tank wall and the baffle wall you'll need to trim the applicator nozzle accordingly. I'd err on the side of caution here and trim it so a nice heavy bead is applied. Keep in mind that the sump will more than likely hidden under a cabinet so cosmetic appearance is trivial.

_Tip : It is easier to apply a smooth bead if you cut the applicator nozzle on a 45 degree angle_


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 10*

Starting at a bottom corner, firmly grip and squeeze the tube until the sealant starts to flow. When this occurs, slowly move up and/or along the joint to apply an even bead of silicone. The bead doesn't have to be perfect at this point.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 10 continued...*

Immediately after applying the bead of silicone, stick your finger in the bottom corner and run it along the bead. This will force the sealant into the joint and create a nice uniform bead. Repeat these actions for the remaining joints on the two walls then it's time to let them set. I waited overnight and continued the project the next morning.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 11*

Clean Up

When you're finished with one side of the two walls and letting them set, clean and store the silicone. 
Immediately cap the tube and set aside. You should then use several Q-tips and push the silicone out of the Applicator nozzle. I suggest doing this several times to ensure all of the sealant is out of the Nozzle.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 12*

The following morning, remove the tape from both of the baffle walls. You can then apply the silicone to this side. Remember to don your vinyl or nitrile gloves, these actually make it easier to apply the sealant and make for easy clean-up.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Easy modification of the Sponge Filter*

When you've applied the sealant to the second side of the 2 walls I would wait a few hours to let it set up. The Baffle walls should be secure at this point so it should be ok to proceed with the final wall. 

However, in the mean time you could make this quick and easy modification to the sponge filter :

By using fishing line and a large sewing needle you can make a handle which will assist you in removing the sponge in the future for maintenance. 

Simply tie the line to the needle and feed it through the height of the sponge near one end of the sponge. You then should feed it back through the sponge near the other end of the sponge. 

_Tip: You could also slide beads or even ceramic bio noodles to create a nice handle._

When you have two loose ends on one side of the sponge secure them by tying the following knot...http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18fcontmeh4m8gif/original.gif

See Pics below for assistance.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 13*

Now two of the walls are secure and it's time to set the third baffle wall. 
Using the masking tape marks as a guide, set the third wall with masking tape on the sponge filter side. It'll be easier to apply silicone on the inside if the wall is already secured. 

When you set the wall up, make sure the filter will have a nice snug fit by sliding it in to place.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Step 14*

Once the sealant has been placed on one side of the final wall, remove the tape. This next step will be the most difficult step of this build. 

When you apply the sealant to the inside of the sponge chamber you could use a tool (such as a baby spoon) or just closely place it along the joint and use your finger tip to accurately set the bead. It is also easier to use a full tube of sealant instead of an almost empty one. When you've successfully applied sealant to all the edges, remove all of the masking tape. Don't forget to clean the applicator nozzle and cap the sealant tube.

_Let the Sump sealant cure overnight before moving._

_When the sealant has cure you can use a razor blade to remove any excess or accidents._

_When the Sealant is Fresh/Wet it has a strong Vinegar odor. Work in a well ventilated area._


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## VerdantGrotto

*Completion*

You now have a customized sump that cost a fraction of what a Pre-fab one does. 

I was looking at sumps on the internet and the size I needed cost anywhere from $200 to $400. This build was approximately $50 - $60 not counting the Sponge filter or fishing line. All of the tools I already had so there was no expense there either.

Since I will have TWO 54 Gallon Corner Reef Tanks, the cost of purchasing sumps for the pair would have been $400 to $800 !!!:shock:

But since I built them myself I saved almost *$700 !!!*

To put that in perspective... That's about how much I will be spending on ALL the equipment for the Reef tanks (The Skimmers, Powerheads, Pumps, Heaters, and even lighting!)


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## VerdantGrotto

If anyone has any additional Tips that could be beneficial for those using these steps as a guide please feel free to post them. 

Thanks and Happy Reefing!


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## VerdantGrotto

Ugh. I'm about to go work out of state at an Oil Refinery Shutdown... This means they'll be shutting down a good portion of the Refinery to perform Maintenance and Repair tasks. That being said, I will be working nights for a month straight... 12 hours a day and 7 days a week... The extra revenue will be nice though.

Dr. FosterSmith here I come :lol: ...


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## Chesh

We'll _try_ to be patient for the next installment. . . keep up the great work, and have a safe trip!


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## VerdantGrotto

*Reef tank circulation question*

So I've done some research and from what I've gathered the following. Post your responses and opinions please...


FLOW RATE
Tank type = (# times tank capacity)
FO = 10 X laminar
FOWLR = 20 X laminar
Reef with beginner inverts = 20 to 40 X (depending on inverts) turbulent , wave
Reef with hard corals / inverts = >40 X turbulent , wave

My reefs will likely contain :
Zoas , mushrooms , Kenya , feather duster and (even though it's not required) some sort of anemone or host for a pair of clowns... I was also considering maybe a soft coral but haven't done enough research.

With the equipment I'll have there will be approximately 37X water flow of turbulent not laminar circulation. 


What are your thoughts on this setup?


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## badxgillen

Some of those numbers seem high but if you are doing stony corals you want the high range. I shoot for 20-40 times turn over rate for my coral tanks and most of them are a mixed reef including soft,LPS,and SPS corals.
37 times turn over rate should be about right especially if there are multiple points of flow.Also I really like DIY so I look forward to seeing your sump in action.A little work can save alot of money.


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## VerdantGrotto

*Lion Fish Mouth Size?*

After scouring the inter webs for days every article/forum/website states that the Lion fish will and/or could eat any fish that could fit in it's mouth. Not one ever states the size of said mouth. I understand that different types of lions have different size mouths but throw us a bone here... 

So let's ask this...

What is the largest size of fish prey a Dwarf Zebra Lion could consume (In inches or cm please) ???

Volitans?

Any other types of lions that are common as well too please.

Thanks


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## badxgillen

A volitan can eat huge things like cardinals,damsels,aother fish and inverts they can catch. I would say a full grown volitan could easily put down a 4 inch fish. Now the dwarf lions such as the fuzzy or zebra wll stilll be able to eat fish about 1 inch in size and try to eat your crustaceans.That being said once they are housed with a fish that they think they cannot eat or catch then they will start to not look at it as food anymore.I have seen a few damsels that the volitans just did not care for any more.


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