# High Ammonia Levels - Stressing me out more than it is the fish!



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Hello all,

I'm just a little stumped. I have searched through these forums, as well as other various sites, but so far have been unable to fix my ammonia problem. Let me give you a breakdown of my setup and readings before going into any other details. 

Tank - 20 gallon
Fish - 2 Flame Dwarf Gouramis, 1 Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami, and 1 "Butterfly Algae Eater" (sold to me as that at LFS but I think its a Hillstream Loach)
No live plants
Temp - always between 76 and 78 F
Tank Age - 3 months
pH - 7.6
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 0
Ammonia - 4

Testing Kit: Constant Seachem Ammonia Alert to let me know its time to test
Jungle Ammonia Testing Strips
New - Starting to use the API Freshwater kit for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates and pH

Story time!

I started this tank about 3 months ago, start from scratch. I had it set up for about a month before adding any fish, but did add some food in there to get my nitrogen cycle going. After 1 month, I added in a betta male. He lived in there for about another month, no issue. My tank had seemingly cycled, as all of my numbers were in the clear at this time. Hooray! Time to add some fish.

I very possibly overloaded the bioload when I went to the fish store. Added in the above listed fish, and put the betta in his own 5 gallon aquarium (Wasn't going to risk a labyrinth fish fight)

Another month went by, and my levels went up a bit, which I was totally expecting, but they died back down to 0 again. This past week however, my ammonia level has SKYROCKETED. It is at an unprecedented 4ppm!

To get my levels down, I have been performing a 25% water change daily, alternating between Stress Zyme and Aqua Safe for conditioning the water. I tested my tap water, and it is 7.6 pH and 0 ammonia, just to be sure that THAT wasn't the culprit. When the spike first happened, I did use Ammo Clear to give them temp relief, and I know that this just neutralizes the bad ammonia. I ALWAYS vacuum the gravel when doing the water changes, and have moved all of my fake plants and decorations to ensure nothing was hiding out under it. I always monitor my fish while eating, especially when new, and all but maybe 1 or 2 micropellets or freezedried bloodworms gets eating. Even the algae disc is devoured in a few minutes! However, just to be sure, I stopped feeding them for a few days. I also made sure to rinse my filter cartridge in used aquarium water to clear it up a bit without losing the good bacteria it has. 

Today I have performed a 50% water change, and have switched to using Prime after seeing several suggestions to use it. 

The curious thing is that my fish do not look at all stressed by this number. They are not at all gasping for breath (and not even doing a lot of labyrinth gulping either, air stone must be working well), they are very active and playful, and they have a healthy appetite.


What else should I be doing to get this spike down? Is this just the "ammonium" I've recently read about being registered by my test kit? Should I switch to live plants? If so, which ones are the best? 

Any help or suggestions would be great!


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

what test kit are you using?? strips or liquid?? i would continue to use prime with every PWC and continue testing and changing water daily.....as far as plants go i would suggest checking out plantgeek.net they have a lot of plants and they catagorize them by type, care difficulty and so forth...im sure byron will come along with good advice regarding plants


----------



## Twistersmom (Dec 9, 2008)

How does the tap water test for ammonia? What filter and filter media are you using? Was there any changes made to the filter before the spike?


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

I started out with the Jungle Test strips initially, just because I couldn't get to the fish store (even PetSmart is 30 minutes away!) until today. Today I switched to the API Liquid Testing kit.

Tap water is a 0 on ammonia.

Filter is a Tetra Whisper 10-30 internal.

Have not changed the filter media, have only rinsed it in aquarium water, and that was after the spike. 

I'm currently using the BioBag filter cartridge that came with it.


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

ok API is a good kit.....i have that one too as do a lot of others on here...i am assuming your previous posted results where from the API kit??


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Yes, the results I have are from the API test kit.


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

are you dosing the whole takn with prime at each water change or just the new water??

how much are you adding?


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

I just got the prime today but I did enough dosage for the entire tank when I did my 50% water change. 

I filled up my 5 gallon bucket, put in 1 quarter of a cap-full in (cap-full is for 50 gallons), let it sti for 15 minutes. Then repeated with the second bucket. 

In total it was treated for 25 gallons.


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

good....i was afraid your were only dosing for the new water. besure to test your water before each water change to see where your ammonia is sitting and that can also help you determine how much water to change...how often are you feeding your guys? for some reason it seems like youre cycling again...when was your last fish addition and what kind and how many at one time??


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Right now I haven't been feeding them at all to cut down on the waste in the aquarium. 

Before that I was feeding them the micropellets or bloodworms in the morning, and then shrimp pellets or an algae disc at night.

I added all 4 of these fish at the same time, as stated, a little over a month ago, after the tank had cycled. 

The 4 fish added were 3 dwarf gourami (1 powder blue and 2 flame) and 1 butterfly algae fish (which is what it was sold to me as, but I believe it is a hillstream loach)


If my ammonia levels are so high, why aren't my fish exhibiting any signs of ammonia poisoning? From what I've read, with pH that high it should be pretty toxic at any level over .5, and CERTAINLY toxic at 4.0! But my fish are not gasping for breath, are very active, and when i am feeding them they eat it all up. They do not have red or inflamed gills.


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

i could be wrong but............when ammonia is turned into ammonium(sp??) is is no longer toxic(not sure if ammonium is toxic at higher levels) however it will still read as ammonia on the test. i am not sure if there is a way of telling if it is one or the other......if ammonia readings are over a certain # then you no it is ammonia and not ammonium????? that i do not know.....does my rambling make sence?? i cant think of any other way to word it....


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Yeah it makes sense, and was kinda what I was thinking too. I read somewhere that if the pH is below 7, then its converted to ammonium, but if its over 7 then its ammonia. Mine is at 7.6. I also don't know how to tell the difference between the two!

I've also read about products like Biospira, SafeStart, and Stability that add bacteria to the tank. Anyone had luck with these, and are they safe to use with the fish in it?


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

i used safestart when i first started my tank as i know this one is actual live bacteria and not something compounded...im not sure about the rest. while waiting for you to reply i found mention of a product on another forum called seachem ammonia test. supposidly this test will only test for TRUE ammonia reading and not that of ammonium. Sounds like the folks who have used this product that were getting reading of ammonia using testkits such as API, which will give you ammonia readings even if it is ammonium, have had good results with differentiating between the two.....i DID NOT find out if ammonium was toxic at any level. If i were you i would look into trying the seachem ammonia test before i adding anything other then your water conditioner to the tank. Again, i have no personal exp. with this particular seachem product, i am only speaking from reading about other who have. Maybe someone on here as used it and can give you their personal opinion


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks for doing a bit of research for me, I appreciate it! 

That seachem test thing might be why my in tank constant reader has a different reading...I just looked it up (have the Seachem Ammonia Alert located Seachem. Ammonia Alert) and apparently that reads ONLY free (toxic) ammonia. That one isn't as accurate (gives a range instead) and has me sitting between .05 and .2 ... here I thought it was just defective! I will definitely have to look into the test that they have to get some more specific readings.


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

if your seachem ammonia alert is reading at 0.05 and 0.2ppm then you should be ok so long as this is accurate. Much better then 4.0ppm!!!!!!!!!!!!! but if at anytime my API test shows more then 0.25ppm ammonia i do daily changes until it is down to 0 then go baack to the weekly changes


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Well then maybe that's the reason I've been stressing out more than my fish!! lol

Thanks so much for guiding me through this today  I still would like my ammonia at 0 so I think I'll continue with water changes until we get there


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

no problem, thats why we are here!! Keep us posted as to how everything goes!!


----------



## stephanieleah (Oct 31, 2009)

I'm a new tank-keeper too, but I do have some experience to share.

The main red flag for me is that your nitrate level is zero...where are you BB and why aren't they converting the ammonia? 

The ammonium does read on the test kits, and according to Byron plants absorb and use that ammonium so live plants would definitely help. Probably using the ammonium fixing stuff converted your ammonia so the fish aren't reacting.

I'd also strongly recommend adding Safe Start (refridgerated BB in yellow bottle). My tank cycled very rapidly using this (like, in a week). My nitrate levels went up without an ammonia spike, and my levels have been pretty stable since. 

Glad your fishies are okay : )


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Yeah I found it odd that I had 0 for nitrates too...I did the test twice to make sure! 

I too have heard that about the plants so thats kinda why I was thinking that, but I have zero experience in that area. Used to have some swordtails that I bred back in high school, and never have had this much of an issue with my levels before!

I'm glad you posted about the Safe Start...I was kinda thinking about that stuff but hadn't heard anything either way about it.


----------



## stephanieleah (Oct 31, 2009)

Yeah I added more Safe Start today because my filter stopped and my bio filter dried out before I got the new filter up and running (people told me to put it in the tank water to keep the bacteria alive and working). Anyway, my tank is only a month and a half old and it didn't even really "cycle" (ie. no ammonia spike). I think it's because of the safe start but it could be because of my low bio-load (only six skirt tetras and one baby pleco).

Good luck, and I guess at this point--water changes!!!


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Yeah I've got the water change system down flat  Feel like thats all I've been doing lately! Hopefully the safe start will let me downgrade to once a week changes here soon


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I'm posting more to keep this as a subscribed thread; this way I'll be certain to see it regularly.

After three months your tank should be cycled. Ammonia and nitrite should always read zero, and nitrates anywhere from 1 to 20 ppm depending upon fish, plants (I know you have none), bacteria, feeding, etc. Ammonia will only show above zero if something happens (fish/plants dying, bacteria dying off, overfeeding...) or it enters via tap water during the partial water change. An ammonia-detoxifying water conditioner will handle the latter. If it is due to the former issues, the source must be found and rectified.

Keep us posted as to ammonia readings.

I looked at that Seachem link, and am not sure exactly how much I would trust such a device. I've no personal experience with it, so won't comment further on something I don't know about.

Byron.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Yeah I'm not sure what the cause could really be for the issue. I know that of course waste from the wish will add ammonia to the water, but im not finding any real waste in the gravel when I clean it, and I've made sure to clean it all. I've literally left no stone unturned! And just to rule out overfeeding, I've been feeding them sparingly once every 3 days. 

My thought was that it was the tap water, but I checked with my city and they do not use chloramine, only chlorine and fluoride in the water, and I tested it pre conditioned and it was a solid 0 for ammonia. 

As for the Seachem product, I never purchased it to be my #1, definitive ammonia reader. It was more as a gauge to alert me on a daily basis that something might be up so that I can rectify it, especially with a newer tank. I too have my doubts about how a product such as that could really be all that accurate. 

I did a 50% water change yesterday, and just tested the water again with the API Freshwater liquid testing kit. here are my readings:

pH - 7.6
Ammonia - Just shy of 4
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0

I'm also going to make the drive to get some Safe Start or similar unless someone tells me otherwise!


----------



## nfored (Mar 31, 2008)

Keep in mind that if your filter has not truly cycled then any water changes will only slow the process down.

If your Nitrate is trully 0 then I would say you have never cycled, but more likely your test kit is bad or your doing the test wrong. Almost all people I have talked to have small amounts of nitrate in their tap water. Maybe take some of your water to a LFS to have it tested.

If you are sure your tanks filter is cycled you can do this. Get a bucket fill it with tank water put the filter in the bucket. Then take out all the gravel or sand you have, and clean it with tank water and never let it dry.

Then empty the water out of the tank and refill it with water that is the correct temp, put in Dechlorinater wait about 2 minutes then put your gravel and filter and fish back in. If your filter is truly cycled and your tap water truly has 0 readings then you should have a fresh start, and you should have 0 readings on everything. This will also get rid of anything hidden in the substrate that could cause the problem. Then keep an eye on it for a couple days if the ammonia creeps back up you know you have not cycled your filter.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

I did not test the tap water for nitrates, only the tank water.

And when I first started the tank, the ammonia went up, and then it went down to zero. It was at 0 until last week when this all started, about a month after my new fish were added. I did see a small ammonia increase, but it went back down within 2 weeks of their introduction. I did not have a nitrite/nitrate testing kit at that time, but I assumed that this meant I was cycled since _something_ had to be eating the ammonia!

I made sure that my test kit is not expired, according to the lot code on the API bottles it says it is only a few months old, and they should have a shelf life of a couple years, if I'm not mistaken. 

I still have to get to the LFS because by local I mean 30 minute drive, but I'll take some water with me to have it tested.


----------



## jmlampert23 (Oct 21, 2009)

i have had great success using the aquaclear ammonia remover insert. they are like 1-4 bucks depending on the size and they are in a mesh bag so you can probably use them in many different filters. 

check them out. like i said i have had a lot of success using these in my tank

here is a link to them at petsmart

AquaClear Ammonia Remover Filter Insert - Filter Media - Fish - PetSmart


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Well, just got back from PetSmart...they tested my water, and had all the same readings I did. So now we can rule out me testing wrong, or my kit being bad.

Of course they aren't generally fish experts, but when I work till 5:30, a half hour drive one way to Petsmart for some supplies is better than the 1 hour one way drive to my favored fish store (not to mention my fave is closed at 6 lol). And they came to the same conclusion that I've been headed towards - my tank is cycling again for some reason.

So, they don't have Tetra Safe Start but I went with SeaChem's Stability which is supposed to be essentially the same thing.


----------



## nfored (Mar 31, 2008)

Well you have a miracle filter that is worth millions. If you have no NitRates and the fiter was at one time cycled. It sounds like something has happened and you have lost your cycle and are starting all over again if you have possitive ammonia and negative nitrite and nitrate. The reason I mentioned nitrate in the tap water was because I assumed you used tap water for the water changes, so there for would be putting nitrate in the tank. It is possible that your tap water is nitrate free and your changing the water so often that its keeping the levels down. 

If your tank has lost its cycle water changes only slow down the process, you are better off stocking up on prime and detoxifying the ammonia until the tank cycles again. It is important that you don't use ammonia removing products as suggest above or you will never cycle, you must use product that detoxify the ammonia while still leaving it for the BB to eat.


----------



## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

If there are fish in the tank, You really have no choice but to perform water changes in my opinion. With that said, Unless you have been changing water daily,the ammonia levels being posted should have killed these fish. Originally, the tank had matured or cycled. Something destroyed the bacteria colony or it was removed. As long as API test indicates ammonia, and no other ammonia reducing chemicals and or powders are being used or have been used,,then I would assume that the filter is once again maturing. Any chemiclas other than dechlorinator should in my view be avoided. The tank and filter will once again mature. All bets are off if other ammonia reducing pads,powders, or potions that can skew test results are being used. Something in my view is Hincky, the ammonia levels reported would kill fish in hours. Possibly before a water change could be performed. I would feed these fish once every three days and no more than a dime size amount of food once.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

I am changing the water daily.

I used Ammonia Clear the 3rd day I had the spike, to provide temp relief to the fish. It has been now a week since I've used that. However, never have they exhibited any signs of ammonia poisoning.

The only chemicals I am now using is Prime for conditioning the new water, and Stability, which is supposed to expedite my bio filter.

I already am feeding them once every 3 days, and sparsely.


----------



## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Sounds like a plan. The reason for mentioning the dime size amount of food is that some folks can and do feed every other day ,or every three days, and then try to make up for the days missed by feeding a little more. I also have next to no faith in bacterial supplements and by testing my source water,,along with using only dechlorinator and said water,, I know what is in the water. Some report great success with these supplements and others do not. By eliminating what goes in the tank,, one can have a better grasp of possible contributers to problems regarding water.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Oh I understand  Hard to tell the experience level/methods of someone's fish keeping based on a few posts!

I always monitor my fish within the first few weeks to see what their individual appetites are, as they never seem to be the same. Even between my flame dwarf gouramis there is a difference! I start out small and then gradually work up to how much they can eat in 3 minutes. Never had more than a micropellet or two go wasted! 

I've personally never used the bacterial supplements either before now, but the fact that I now have live fish in this toxic environment has me trying anything. Since I have heard some reports of it doing good things, I figured it couldn't hurt. However,ammonia removing products I am avoiding, because as was said before, that can only delay this whole process right now.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

mikaboshi said:


> Oh I understand  Hard to tell the experience level/methods of someone's fish keeping based on a few posts!
> 
> I always monitor my fish within the first few weeks to see what their individual appetites are, as they never seem to be the same. Even between my flame dwarf gouramis there is a difference! I start out small and then gradually work up to how much they can eat in 3 minutes. Never had more than a micropellet or two go wasted!
> 
> I've personally never used the bacterial supplements either before now, but the fact that I now have live fish in this toxic environment has me trying anything. Since I have heard some reports of it doing good things, I figured it couldn't hurt. However,ammonia removing products I am avoiding, because as was said before, that can only delay this whole process right now.


1077 and I generally agree on almost everything, the exception being biological supplements. I would certainly use Stability in your situation. I have used it myself, and it is live bacteria and that cannot hurt. Some of these "supplements" are chemicals, I agree not to use them. But I believe Stability is OK.

Prime is detoxifying the ammonia by changing it to ammonium which is harmless to fish, that is why the fish appear fine. Test kits read ammonia and ammonium as the same, so the high ammonia number indicates obviously this is ammonium. The fish will be fine. But the source of the ammonia is still an issue, however, if you continue your present method of pwc with Prime and Stability I would expect the nitrification cycle to re-establish itself. The nitrosomonas bacteria use ammonia and ammonium so no issue there.

On the pwc, it may not need to be so often, given that the "ammonia" is actually ammonium which is harmless to the fish. Monitor the fish's behaviour; any sign of gasping at the surface means ammonia (in this case the most likely reason) and a pwc will help if that occurs.

Byron.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Thanks Byron for the shoutout on the biological supplements. 

I was thinking that daily water changes wouldn't be helping if I'm trying to reestablish my bio filter, so I'm glad you chimed in about that as well. 

Thanks everyone for the all of the help you have provided me! I truly appreciate it


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Well, its been almost 2 weeks since I last posted. I've only done 1 water change since then, of ~20%. This was done with a nice cleaning of the gravel. I didn't want to do more because I wanted my bio filter back!! I used Prime at full tank strength to remove chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia from the new water. 

I've been doing my daily regiment of Seachem's Stability product. I've been feeding them every 3 days, and sparsely. If there was anything wasted out of these feedings, both myself and the fish missed it. Besides Prime and Stability, I have used no other chemicals in my tank. 

My readings right now: 

Ammonia - 4
Nitrites - .25
Nitrates - 0

So I don't know if the biological supplement is really helping me or not; in two weeks I would think that it would have done a bit more than that if the Stability was really helping at all. This seems to me just a normal cycling. 

My fish still aren't exhibiting signs of stress or ammonia poisoning, so I can be grateful that they are being such troopers! Especially for dwarf gouramis which in the past have not been quite as hardy for me. 

So, it looks like now all I can really do it wait for the cycle to occur! At least NOW I have some proof that its planning on doing it at all! (again... haha)


----------



## Hawkian (Oct 29, 2009)

Do daily water changes of 20% until your ammonia levels drop considerably.
Don't feed the fish more than once a day - even then a small amount.
Have a fast day for your fish. I fast my fish every wednesday.
Make sure you vacuum the gravel thouroughly at every water change.
See what your levels are after a week...?

BTW - i'm unclear as to why your nitrites and nitrates levels are at '0'. Nitrites at least should have peeked by now but you;ve added some chemicals to control the ammonia so that may be the problem there...?


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Even when I was doing the daily water changes, I had no change in ammonia levels. 

And I always only feed my fish once a day unless a problem like this occurs - thus why I am now on every 3 days. 

If you read my last post my nitrites are now starting up, they are at .25 now instead of 0. I only ever added Ammonia clear the 3rd day I had the huge spike because I was worried that an amount that big would severally stress them out or outright kill them. That was about 3 weeks ago. Now the only chemicals I am using are Prime and Stability. 

And I never, ever do a water change without doing a sweep with the vacuum. It makes absolutely no sense to me why I would go through the trouble and not just do that little thing while I'm in there! And I have lifted every single ornament in my tank to ensure nothing was hiding out in there. 

And my tank already cycled once, yes. I don't know what happened to kill my bacteria. 

At the time of my posting on 11/14, the very first post, I had already been doing daily PWCs of 20% and that did not help me at all - my levels from 3 weeks ago to now of ammonia have remained at a constant 4.0. The only change is now that I've STOPPED doing the PWCs I've finally got a cycle going again, it seems, as evidenced the presence of nitrites. So I think nfored was right when they said the water changes were just slowing me down.


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

There is something here but I can't deduce what it is. An ammonia reading of 4 is very high and at a pH of 7.6 the fish would be dead. Fortunately you are using ammonia detoxifying water conditioners so that means the ammonia is actually ammonium (that's how Prime detoxifies ammonia) which is harmless. But the nitrite stage will not be harmless, and a daily 50% water change will be mandatory if the nitrite rises.

I went back and you state that the tap water has zero ammonia--you are certain? It has to come from something. And I don't think the tank is overstocked with the 4 fish you mention.

I'm at a loss.

B.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Yes, I've tested the tap water for ammonia. Twice before, and I actually just went and tested it now as well. It is at zero - a solid golden yellow. I also emailed my city's water department, and the only additives they use are chlorine and fluoride, no chloramine even. 

I retested the tap water also so Nitrites and Nitrates - both also zero.

Just did another test on the tank as well to cure my own curiosity on where those levels are at:

Ammonia - 6.0 (!!)
Nitrites - .50
Nitrates - 0

So both my ammonia and Nitrites are now higher from yesterday!

I'm at a loss as well - never have I had this issue in the past!!


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

mikaboshi said:


> Yes, I've tested the tap water for ammonia. Twice before, and I actually just went and tested it now as well. It is at zero - a solid golden yellow. I also emailed my city's water department, and the only additives they use are chlorine and fluoride, no chloramine even.
> 
> I retested the tap water also so Nitrites and Nitrates - both also zero.
> 
> ...


 
"Golden yellow" is zero? Earlier you mentioned the API test kit; my API ammonia kit has zero as white which is clear, no colour in the tube at all. Golden yellow with my API kit would be extremely high ammonia. I can't explain that.

Monitor the fish behaviour; at any signs of stress, heavy respiration, gasping at the surface, do a 50% pwc. That's my best advice. And maybe get the store to test the tap water for ammonia.

B.


----------



## cerianthus (Jul 13, 2008)

There are 2 different kind of ammonia test kits. One with Nessler Reagent (1 bottle) which goes from clear to yellow.
Another one is Salicylate method (2 bottles) which goes from yellow to green.
Thus depending on which one, will show different colors.

As Byron stated, high ammonia at pH lower than 7.4, no need to panic. 

As far as levels increasing, cant say for sure but DO NOT vacuum gravel nor disturb the filter during such mishap. By disturbing, you are probably reducing amount of benefial bacteria.

Simple, small but frequent water change and controlled feeding shoud reestablish this tank with time.
As long as nitrite is registering, tank is going toward right direction.

Just have patience and try,* if possible*, to keep pH lower than 7.4, until at least ammonia is well under control. What is pH of your tap?


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

My Ammonia test goes from yellow (0) to A very dark green (8.0)

I scanned the card I have to illustrate this (colors are a bit off from the scan but I think the point gets across that in my test kit, golden is good)









pH of my tap is 7.6, same as my tank. I've always shied away from messing with pH as I know done incorrectly it could really stress out my fish!


----------



## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

That's explained. So with this same test kit, the one scanned, your tap water is yellow but the tank is dark green, correct? Just want to ensure this is so.

Agree with previous advice, monitor and do pwc as this works through.

Byron.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

yep! you got it byron 

And yep, I'm definitely monitoring them and am ready to do a PWC if needed right away.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Well, its definitely cycling!

Tests have my ammonia at a little less than .05 right now for ammonia. about 1 for nitrites and 5 for nitrates. I'm quite amazed at the progression from last week to this week to be honest!

Of course been monitoring the fish, still no signs of stress, still have healthy appetite and very colorful. Been doing my Stability bio-additive every day still, and will until ammonia and nitrites are down. Based on these readings, it doesn't seem to be hindering my progress at all.

Thanks everyone again for all of the help you've provided. Just wanted to chime in and let those of you watching the thread know the status!


----------



## molliefan09 (Sep 21, 2009)

im glad to hear you tank is finally starting to complete its cycle!!


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

For the second time! LOL


----------



## stephanieleah (Oct 31, 2009)

isn't it awesome when you get a detectable level of something besides ammonia??? I know the feeling of your tank showing signs of cycling...because I just went through it myself : ) and afterwards, there's nothing like a nice, unquestionably yellow vial for ammonia.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

Haha yes, I felt like such a dork when nitrites stopped being just baby blue and started turning pink/purple. 

What was funnier is I got excited and rushed to show my fiance, who just looked at me with a blank stare as I showed him the vial. Number 1, he likes fish but leaves the science to me, and didn't really understand the significance of it. Number 2 - he's color blind lol

Glad you're ammonia problems are behind you, too!


----------



## Angel079 (Feb 14, 2007)

LOL sounds like my hubby, he loves the tanks and loves watching them but leaves anything else to me and on the new one's he kept going like "is it ready yet? LOOKS ready don't it" and I'd say like "Naw its only reading 0.25 yet" and I gotta stare back and he'd ask next day is it reading YET llol....


----------



## stephanieleah (Oct 31, 2009)

My husband's philosophy: just put some fish in and see which ones stay alive. If it were up to him we'd have a bunch of fish eating each other and dying from ammonia poisoning. 

That's why I'm the designated fish goddess of our house. Which means we should all be praying for my fish LOL


----------



## nfored (Mar 31, 2008)

mikaboshi said:


> Haha yes, I felt like such a dork when nitrites stopped being just baby blue and started turning pink/purple.
> 
> What was funnier is I got excited and rushed to show my fiance, who just looked at me with a blank stare as I showed him the vial. Number 1, he likes fish but leaves the science to me, and didn't really understand the significance of it. Number 2 - he's color blind lol
> 
> Glad you're ammonia problems are behind you, too!


This is how my Wify looks at me when I get excited, I was excited about how my fish finally stop freaking out when I stick my hand in the tank to do clean up. Although this had one side effect, I used to be able to take off the guard on the drain to clean it, now I cant because the fish have no fear and swim up to my hand; I have to quickly cover the drain with my palm.



stephanieleah said:


> My husband's philosophy: just put some fish in and see which ones stay alive. If it were up to him we'd have a bunch of fish eating each other and dying from ammonia poisoning.
> 
> That's why I'm the designated fish goddess of our house. Which means we should all be praying for my fish LOL


My wife said she used to get the fish that only live a couple days???? I was like what fish is that? I never heard of a type of fish that only lives few days. So now I always tease her, because she wants a puppy; so I ask are we getting one that only lives a few weeks 

I am glad your tank is back to normal with all the fish healthy.


----------



## mikaboshi (Nov 14, 2009)

LOL good times. I'm glad I'm not the only one who gets excited about these things! (I'm also 

Yeah I can't imagine which fish would only live a couple of days, and that puppy comment is hilarious!


----------

