# String or hair algae !



## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Hey everyone,

I took a good look at my tank yesterday and damn these strings were all over they look like cobwebs i think its clear enough in the photo.

It looks like the growth of my plants are stunted for a lack of CO2 i've planted the shit outta the tank and i guess there isn't enough to go around maybe thats why these algae have come in , since the plants don't grow they aren't robbing the algae of nutrition. 

Ive got CO2 in the form of tablets will this help or do i have to get a canister of it .

Any help appreciated guys !


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## Maxillius (Sep 27, 2011)

hello! your tablets could help but a canister and diffuser would work best for sure! if you wana go the cheap way there is also a yeast co2 system that is very simple! just pick a 2l bottle of cola or anything along with a 500 ml one or smaller one , pierce the 2l with one hole and the smaller botthe with 2 holes then pass a tubing between the 2 l and the 500 ml one , the tubing needs to be long enough to go about the middle of your smaller bottle, this will serve as a bubble counter then pass a tubing that goes in the second hole from the top out of water of the smaller bottle in your aquarium, you can also add a return valve to it (between the smaller bottle and your aquarium) for diffusion you can use a air stone but i find it best to use coton or an used cleaned cigarette filter simply squeezed in the end of the tubing(helps if wet) then just add 39-40 degree celcius water about half way(in coke bottle) then 2 cups of sugar then any kind of yeast you find at the grocery store but the quick rise  shake well screw it tight then wait to foam , voila , simple co2


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## Maxillius (Sep 27, 2011)

I also recomend to hotglue the tubings or use any strong glue due to the presure its gona build , and to never ever use a glass bottle for this!m silicone is also a waste of time no matter how much you put in!


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Maxillius said:


> I also recomend to hotglue the tubings or use any strong glue due to the presure its gona build , and to never ever use a glass bottle for this!m silicone is also a waste of time no matter how much you put in!


you mean using silicone as a sealant on the cap doesn't work? and won't a hot glue melt the plastic


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## Maxillius (Sep 27, 2011)

a little but I heard it works I personally used gorilla glue(a kind of crazy glue)


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Don't jump to the conclusion there isn't sufficient CO2, I am more inclined to think the light may be too much (duration or intensity). All green algae occurs from light when the plants can't use it. To maintain a balance, the safer way is to reduce the light rather than messing with added this or that which can often (=usually) cause other problems.

We need the data on this tank. Tank size, light specs, light duration, nutrients (fertilizers) being added, fish load. I can see the plants from the photos.

Byron.


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Byron said:


> Don't jump to the conclusion there isn't sufficient CO2, I am more inclined to think the light may be too much (duration or intensity). All green algae occurs from light when the plants can't use it. To maintain a balance, the safer way is to reduce the light rather than messing with added this or that which can often (=usually) cause other problems.
> 
> We need the data on this tank. Tank size, light specs, light duration, nutrients (fertilizers) being added, fish load. I can see the plants from the photos.
> 
> Byron.


Tank Dimensions : 60l x 43h x 35w cm around 20-25 gallons
Fish Load : 1 VT Betta "Rojo" 
Substrate : ADA Power Sand , ADA Amazonia 2 
Fertilizer : Ferropol liquid dosing as on the bottle
Filter ower Head with carbon and sponge, last cleaned a month ago I think

I think it's the duration that screwed the balance i would put it on at 7 in the morning to 8 at night now it's till 6. thing is the plants you see on the right surrounding that red plant aren't doing well ,their leaves are somewhat shrivelled. 

If you could name the plants for me I'd be very grateful Byron so I can understand how to take care of them and the LFS has no idea what plants they bring in , although they are well stocke


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

TheAngryAadvark said:


> Tank Dimensions : 60l x 43h x 35w cm around 20-25 gallons
> Fish Load : 1 VT Betta "Rojo"
> Substrate : ADA Power Sand , ADA Amazonia 2
> Fertilizer : Ferropol liquid dosing as on the bottle
> ...


You haven't indicated the light intensity, which I can probably conclude if I know the type, number of tubes (assuming fluorescent) and watts. The info printed on one end of the tube might help. Duration might be better less, but here one has to find the balance with the nutrients and I'll need to know about the light.

The one thing that bothers me here is the liquid fertilizer. On their website [assuming this is JBL Ferropol] it does not give all the nutrients included, but does mention iron and potassium. Iron can be a problem, as I've written elsewhere. And iron does or can cause algae. Their claim that using this product will reduce algae is a bit skeptical. There are nutrients in the substrate too, and likely iron is included. Keeping a proportional balance among nutrients is important, which is why I recommend a complete balanced product like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive or Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. Have you been using their (JBL's) iron test that they mention in their blurb on this product, and if so, what numbers are you getting?

Don't replace the carbon in the filter; carbon will also remove essential nutrients in planted tanks. If you can physically remove it, fine, but if not due to the filter design, leaving it there (just rinse with each water change to remove suspended matter from the media) will be OK, it will become inert in time by adsorbing substances to the max.

You need some floating plants. This will be much appreciated by the Betta, plus it will shade the tank and help with the light. To ID the plants, left to right, as best I can from the photo:
Lower left corner, not sure, maybe a sword
Behind is a crypt with reddish underleaves
Background is akin to Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) or Water hedge (Didiplis diandra)
Large dark leaf in front of that is Anubias
Small plants to the right of Anubias look like Sagittaria
Centre plant in back is a sword (Echinodorus bleherae or E. amazonicus likely)
Right of that the green stem, not sure
Reddish stem I think is Ludwigia
Carpet plant in front I can't see well enough, might be a Hemianthus


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks I think this whole site is glued together by you, anyway at work now and will check out the markings on my lights i know they are T5 two of them.

About the floating plant cover , the carpet plant you see in the front is java moss and i read on this site that they will float, like will they float at the surface? but if thats the case and they do help to dim the lights then won't the red plants suffer as I heard that they require a lot of light which was the only reason I got these new lights. 

As to the fertilizer where I live (UAE / Dubai) aquarium fish and products aren't really that good a commodity in the pet shop. Most often The Locals buy them as show pieces at their home or offices (mostly marine). Ex-pats are mostly the people who have this as a hobby. So few Products and species are available here for freshwater tanks while marine species are abundant as the locals have literally buckets of money . 
Therefore Seachem is not one on the list. Is tetra a good substitute? or any Sera products? OR can I trust an online site to source this stuff any suggestions , so far some sites i've seen are way more cheaper than what i have to pay here.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

TheAngryAadvark said:


> Thanks I think this whole site is glued together by you, anyway at work now and will check out the markings on my lights i know they are T5 two of them.
> 
> About the floating plant cover , the carpet plant you see in the front is java moss and i read on this site that they will float, like will they float at the surface? but if thats the case and they do help to dim the lights then won't the red plants suffer as I heard that they require a lot of light which was the only reason I got these new lights.
> 
> ...


I would not suggest Java Moss as floating, it will be too thick. Water Sprite is best. Some stem plants do well floating, ones like Brazilian Pennywort, Green Cabomba, Wisteria. Amazon Frogbit and dwarf Water Lettuce. Salvinia. These are all in the profiles with data and photos.

Fish do not like bright overhead light. So some floating plants is in my view essential. You work out the balance so the plants manage but the fish are not being stressed out.

Sera products are highly recommended. I have not tried them, as they are quite expensive here, but if you can manage them, they should work. Just don't go overboard with additives. A basic complete nutrient fertilizer is all that is needed.

Byron.


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

here's my lights byron . I get cabomba here but how do i make them float ? do i anchor them to the side, i think I've thought of a way of doing that, but will they float otherwise?


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Oh yes and I've switched my liquid fertilizer to Sera florena which was lying around from a promotion offer ...... oops i just noticed it has enriched iron, chelated iron hmmm .. It also has Zinc , Copper, Magnesium, Manganese and calcium .... should i continue with this or try to find another fertilizer that does have iron as an "enriched" ingrediant , right now i'm trying to get my plants to flourish and deprive the algae of it's nutrients.

I've also taken out the carbon in my filter and replaced it with a sponge um should i use bio balls in that space instead ?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I'm not familiar with that lighting, but it seems bright, so reducing the duration will help. i suppose one of the tubes can't be removed and the other still light?

Most all fertilizers will have iron in them, but it will be balanced with the other nutrients in good products like Sera, Flourish, FlorinMulti.

Filter doesn't matter, with plants all you need is mechanical, so the floss/pads are probably more useful.

Cabomba will float if you just lay the stems across the surface. You cold bunch them at the cut end and use a piece of cotton thread to tie that end to a filter stem or something if you want to have them in a certain spot. If there is surface movement they will probably float around otherwise.

Byron.


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks Byron , I guess thats all the questions i have for now , I really appreciate it !


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

Lighting appears to be two 55 watt bulbs over 20 to 25 gal tank for 110 watts of CFL lighting.
I think without pressurized CO2 and increase in all nutrient's both macro, and micro,that this lighting will only encourage excess algae even with six to eight hour photoperiod.
Do not believe CO2 tablet's would maybe last long enough to provide what is needed under this lighting .
Maybe DIY CO2 application could make improvement but reducing intensity to half what is now being used ,would not place such a demand from plant's for more CO2 than is available and consequently more demand for nutrient's.


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

1077 said:


> Maybe DIY CO2 application could make improvement but reducing intensity to half what is now being used ,would not place such a demand from plant's for more CO2 than is available and consequently more demand for nutrient's.


Problem is i don't think that i can get a check valve over here , is it quite a common item ?
anyway is there anyway i can change or modify the design , but with something else in place of the check valve ?


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## TheAngryAadvark (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks everyone the photo period was all i needed to change ! The algae has reduced considerably.


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