# 20g Community: Are these compatible?



## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

Our water is neutral and soft, and the tank will be planted.

x1 Bristlenose Pleco
x1 Honey Gourami
x8 Harlequin Rasboras or Cardinal Tetras (depends on the availability, unless one of these is a much better choice)
x6 Corydoras


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## Blackfeet (Jul 23, 2012)

Yes they should get along fine and in your water. The harlequin is better adapted to your water than the cardinal. The cardinal will still live and do well, just not as long as th
Eir normal lifespan. 78 degrees is a good temp for your tank mates and all love plants.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

I would go with dwarf Cory's and a smaller pleco like a clown.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

Are the albino corys the small kind? I adore those.

Oh, there's smaller plecos? I was aiming for a little one, and seemed to remember the Bristlenose being in the lower-size range(and they are cute). Thank you for telling me! I will certainly look into those.

Also, I'll get Harlequins then, as I want the fishies to be as comfy as possible.


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## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

Albino cories are just albino versions of the bronze cory. They are some of the larger cories if I remember correctly. Pygmy cory cats, dwarf cory cats, and panda cory cats are some of the smallest. 

I also vote for the rasbora over the cardinal tetra. Cardinals aren't the hardiest fish and need a mature setup. Better to just stick with the harlequin rasbora. 

Personally I would just remove the pleco all together. They are little poop machines, and unless you really want one I would never add one to a tank. They only eat algae when they are young and become carnivorous when they age. If you're looking for a cleanup crew shrimp would be a better bet.


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

Yes, the albino/bronze corys are one of the largest.

Clown plecos are one that stay smaller, and there are a number of peckoltias (cousins of plecos) that will stay small. The pitbull pleco (peckoltia) is probably one of the most widely available. They are small and like to have a few buddies, kinda like otos.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

I love plecos, but I think I'll wait on one.

@thekoimaiden: It will be a couple weeks before we get the fishies, since we need to switch the substrate to sand for the Corys. You know my situation, so that's why it's directed towards you, but answers from anyone are welcome. They will be in the tank that Comet is in. If I run the 20g filter with the one in the 75g, will it keep the bacteria alive long enough until we get more fish? If not, I have a cycled Betta tank filter of the same size cartridge, it would just be easier to continue to use the one that is in it. 

What order should I add the fish if I go with:
Rasboras
Pygmy Corys
1 Honey Gourami

Thanks! I have no idea what order would be best.


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## Blackfeet (Jul 23, 2012)

As for the algea eater, I prefer oto cats. They only get to 2" long max and they never stop eating algea due to age unlike plecoptera species. For your size 3 will be quite adequate, 2 if you aren't going to heavily plant. Most seem to be wild caught and they need the algea at first to be where it is in nature, they adapt to eating algea wafers. 
As for the order on the fish, in the order you listed them, but get the gourami last. They are kinda finicky as to water quality and it always fluctuates some when you add stuff. For the bio filter get the plants first. Get it completely set up with only the rasboros in since your ph is neutral and soft water your plants will suck the KH naturally (I would advise getting a GH & KH general a
& carbonate hardness tester and a KH buffer to keep the KH up since your plants need it too) in the water and your ph will drop. In soft acidic water all ammonia converts almost immediately to ammonium which is not toxic to your fish and the plants use as a nutrient


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## Tannerj (Feb 11, 2012)

*Community Tank List, look good?*

56 Gallon Community Aquarium

Subject to change
15 Neon Tetras
10 Rummy Nose Tetras
8 Harlequin Rasboras
2 German Blue Rams OR 2 Pearl Gouramis
5 Marble/Silver Hatchetfish
1 Rainbowshark

Bottom

2 Kuhlii Loaches
2 South American Bumblee Bee Catfish
5 or 6 Panda Cory Cats


Yes Ive done my research over and over, and I also know that the tempuratures for some of these fish are different, Ive already got that planned out and solved. Suggestions on how it looks so far is greatly apreiciated.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

Blackfeet said:


> As for the algea eater, I prefer oto cats. They only get to 2" long max and they never stop eating algea due to age unlike plecoptera species. For your size 3 will be quite adequate, 2 if you aren't going to heavily plant. Most seem to be wild caught and they need the algea at first to be where it is in nature, they adapt to eating algea wafers.
> As for the order on the fish, in the order you listed them, but get the gourami last. They are kinda finicky as to water quality and it always fluctuates some when you add stuff. For the bio filter get the plants first. Get it completely set up with only the rasboros in since your ph is neutral and soft water your plants will suck the KH naturally (I would advise getting a GH & KH general a
> & carbonate hardness tester and a KH buffer to keep the KH up since your plants need it too) in the water and your ph will drop. In soft acidic water all ammonia converts almost immediately to ammonium which is not toxic to your fish and the plants use as a nutrient


Should I add the entire school at once? I read that adding too many fish is bad, so just checking.

Can someone help me find a 20g hood for cheap? We have one, but it's finicky. We think the starter in it is probably about to tear up.. it's very loud and blinks when it comes on (old tank). (Edit: Or if there was some way to fix it, or a DIY hood, also open to those options.) We're on a budget, so any help would be great. Also, direction towards where to get driftwood to tie some plants to would be immensely helpful. I really think it would look great for the set up I have in mind.


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## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

eaturbyfill said:


> @thekoimaiden: It will be a couple weeks before we get the fishies, since we need to switch the substrate to sand for the Corys. You know my situation, so that's why it's directed towards you, but answers from anyone are welcome. They will be in the tank that Comet is in. If I run the 20g filter with the one in the 75g, will it keep the bacteria alive long enough until we get more fish? If not, I have a cycled Betta tank filter of the same size cartridge, it would just be easier to continue to use the one that is in it.
> 
> What order should I add the fish if I go with:
> Rasboras
> ...


Definitely put the 20 gal filter on the 75 gal tank. Goldfish produce more then enough ammonia to keep the filter well "feed." When the new fish come in just take the filter and put it on the community tank. When this time does come to remove the 20 gal filter, keep and eye on the parameters in the goldfish tank. 

As for the order of fish I would add the rasboras first. Let the tank mature for about a month and then add the gourami. Pygmy cories are sensitive, so I would wait at least another 2-3 months before adding them. Not only does the tank need to be fully cycled, but it also needs to be mature for them to prosper. Hope this all works out!!


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

thekoimaiden said:


> Definitely put the 20 gal filter on the 75 gal tank. Goldfish produce more then enough ammonia to keep the filter well "feed." When the new fish come in just take the filter and put it on the community tank. When this time does come to remove the 20 gal filter, keep and eye on the parameters in the goldfish tank.
> 
> As for the order of fish I would add the rasboras first. Let the tank mature for about a month and then add the gourami. Pygmy cories are sensitive, so I would wait at least another 2-3 months before adding them. Not only does the tank need to be fully cycled, but it also needs to be mature for them to prosper. Hope this all works out!!


Thank you so much! 

In a week we will be ordering what we need from that Drs. Foster & Smith place since I've heard good stuff about them. We'll get:
sand
all of the food (some new Betta pellets, tropical flakes, and sinking shrimp pellets-- is that good for the Corys?)
heater (Is the Hydor Theo good?)
Prime conditioner
and maybe something else.

I planned on using the decorations we already have, but my husband is goofy and wants to pick a theme.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

Agh, it aggravates me when the edit button isn't there.

Edit: Is this sand okay? It says marine in the title, but fresh and salt in the description.. Just a little confused. Aquarium Substrate for Marine Aquariums: CaribSea Instant Aquarium Substrate Tahitian Moon


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## Pearl2011 (May 21, 2012)

That sand looks fine, but I would go with play sand. It is ridiculously cheap, I got 55lbs for 7.81. It is very dusty though and I spent at least an hour getting it dust free. But it was so worth it. I think the mix of different colors is more natural then black. 
But other choice is good, up to you.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

Pearl2011 said:


> That sand looks fine, but I would go with play sand. It is ridiculously cheap, I got 55lbs for 7.81. It is very dusty though and I spent at least an hour getting it dust free. But it was so worth it. I think the mix of different colors is more natural then black.
> But other choice is good, up to you.


I was going to use play sand, but we have a background with lots of pretty blues and I thought it would make everything sort of "pop". I don't have my mind made up for sure, though. I think I'll scout the nearby stores' sand. How can I be sure the play sand doesn't have any harmful additives?


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

Oh, geez, just measured the tank.. Turns out it's 15g! What?! It does not look like one. Is the community still doable? 

http://www.aqadvisor.com/AquStockIm...200909300094:,4:201002091344:,1:200909300098:


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## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

Your equipment list looks good. Hydor is a good brand. The sand is also good for freshwater, too. I contemplated using it for my 29 gal community as I wanted a good black sand, but it is kinda sharp. I've heard it said that the particular sand isn't good for substrate fish like cories and loaches. I went with another brand that was actually cheaper and highly recommended. It's the Estes UltraReef sand. I found some very cheap (shipping was also cheap) through google shopping. It's just a thought. 

Hmm. Now knowing it's a 15 gal tank, it might be a bit cramped. I would certainly lower the numbers in the schools to 7. The honey gourami might be a stretch in there. I would wait and add him last. If you seem to have trouble keeping the tank clean or fish keep getting sick I would skip the gourami.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

How long should I quarantine them? I've never had to before.


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## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

What other tanks do you have? You could also look into getting a large plastic container. I'm currently using one as a QT.


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## eaturbyfill (May 22, 2012)

I have an empty 10g I was saving to be a quarantine tank


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## jaysee (Dec 9, 2009)

Quarantine tanks are essential.


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## thekoimaiden (Oct 19, 2011)

eaturbyfill said:


> I have an empty 10g I was saving to be a quarantine tank


That's great! Just make sure you have a cycled filter (a lot of people like to have a spare sponge filter in their main tank for just this occasion) to put in it. 

As for length, well that really depends. At least two weeks after you've seen the last symptoms of disease. It would also be a great idea to feed the fish NLS Thera-A formula. It has more garlic (which is a natural anti-parasitic) than the normal formula. If you make the tank as low-stress as possible often times the fish will be able to fight off any diseases they may have had before. Have some live plants in there, too is always a great idea.


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## Blackfeet (Jul 23, 2012)

eaturbyfill said:


> Can someone help me find a 20g hood for cheap?


I have one I would be willing to give you free. It is 24 inches long. Is that the right length for you?
As for adding the fish do it slowly of one school at a time (A school is 5-6 fish for most breeds). If you are not going to get a full school of any breed then all of those fish at once say of 4 fish or less then give it at least 5 days to ensure you didn't bring any deseases. FYI quarantine tanks are great for just that purpose, and you can treat them without getting concerned about damaging your bio filter


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## Blackfeet (Jul 23, 2012)

Before you go any further with that you should consider spending the extra cash and getting a t5 fixture with 2 bulbs in it. You don't need high output for your tank. A daylight bulb of 10,000k or 12,000k will hav a nice affect of picking up the blue irredenseent parts of you fish while at the same time enhancing reds (I know it made my cardinals really pop), it is also good for plants and a plant bulb of 5500-7000k (k refers to the internal temp of the bulb and is also the part that gives you the color spectrum of the bulb). The second bulb is specifically for the plants and will give you good growth. More things to consider here are fertilizer and CO2 with the extra light you need fertilizer in the substrate for rooted plants and in the water for others and CO2 (a fermentation system is cheap since you can make your own and should do fine) cause the plants might need more due to more light equals more growth. I call it the planted triangle of headaches as I am new to planted aquariums, and here is why if any of the 3 things are higher than the others you will have algea. I have had the fastest and lowest maintenance result dealing with algea by using a UV sterilizer.


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