# water evaporation?



## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

Okay this might be a stupid question but how important is it to have water evaporation in an aquarium? The way I have my lid I have very little if any because of how tight it is. Is this a problem?


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

That should not be a problem as long as you are doing enough water changes to keep up with your water quality needs. Lack of evaporation is actually a good thing. The process of evaporation can jump ammonia, nitrite, and especially nitrate levels all over the place. Water evaporates, waste levels do not, thus the waste becomes concentrated in the water. This is why water changes require removal of water before adding clean water... and why topping off a tank from evaporation can make problems worse (or create problems to begin with).


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

Forgot to add... just be sure there is some kind of circulation/ventilation at the water's surface for proper gas exchange (O2, CO2, etc).


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

bettababy said:


> Forgot to add... just be sure there is some kind of circulation/ventilation at the water's surface for proper gas exchange (O2, CO2, etc).


There is a gap between the water and the lid. I do have two holes cut in the plexiglass so the wires and hoses for the heater and filter to go in. So there should be some ventilation there I would think. Most of the the plexiglass is covered with condensation though.


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

bettababy said:


> That should not be a problem as long as you are doing enough water changes to keep up with your water quality needs. Lack of evaporation is actually a good thing. The process of evaporation can jump ammonia, nitrite, and especially nitrate levels all over the place. Water evaporates, waste levels do not, thus the waste becomes concentrated in the water. This is why water changes require removal of water before adding clean water... and why topping off a tank from evaporation can make problems worse (or create problems to begin with).



Thanks for that explanation on that!!


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

You're welcome. Also, remember... the only "stupid question" is the one that isn't asked.


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

bettababy said:


> You're welcome. Also, remember... the only "stupid question" is the one that isn't asked.


Okay thanks :-D


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

My only comment is that my tanks have run for years just as you have described. I have glass covers on the larger and the normal hoods on the smaller, and these are not airtight so there is more air circulation than you might think. But in the morning the glass and hoods are covered with water that has condensed from the tank, since the water is warmer than the air, and it drips off heavily. On the morning I do the water change the amount of water than can run off one piece of glass is quite remarkable. Once the lights come on it obviously evaporates faster until the glass under the lights is dry. If your water is hard, the whitish deposit left on the glass will be the minerals, and that needs to be cleaned off weekly during the water change; even a very thin "haze" will significantly block light penetration.

Aside from the tank issues Dawn mentioned, having all that water getting directly into the room is not good for the house. Just like in a bathroom after a shower. Water condensing on the walls and ceiling will penetrate the surfaces. Best to limit that, and a good fitting hood/cover on the tank does.

Byron.


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

Byron said:


> My only comment is that my tanks have run for years just as you have described. I have glass covers on the larger and the normal hoods on the smaller, and these are not airtight so there is more air circulation than you might think. But in the morning the glass and hoods are covered with water that has condensed from the tank, since the water is warmer than the air, and it drips off heavily. On the morning I do the water change the amount of water than can run off one piece of glass is quite remarkable. Once the lights come on it obviously evaporates faster until the glass under the lights is dry. If your water is hard, the whitish deposit left on the glass will be the minerals, and that needs to be cleaned off weekly during the water change; even a very thin "haze" will significantly block light penetration.
> 
> Aside from the tank issues Dawn mentioned, having all that water getting directly into the room is not good for the house. Just like in a bathroom after a shower. Water condensing on the walls and ceiling will penetrate the surfaces. Best to limit that, and a good fitting hood/cover on the tank does.
> 
> Byron.


Thanks Byron, It does leave a white haze on the lid I didn't put much thought in it being minerals and needed to wiped clean. I will start doing that with water changes.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Boredomb said:


> Thanks Byron, It does leave a white haze on the lid I didn't put much thought in it being minerals and needed to wiped clean. I will start doing that with water changes.


Doing it weekly will be easier. The longer it stays, the harder it is to remove. I have very soft water, so there is minimal mineral deposits on my glass, but it still occurs. I "wash" the glass with paper towels, using the water on the glass, then buff them dry with a cloth towel. If the mineral deposit is stubborn, vinegar can be used in the water to wash it off, then dry it completely.


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## SinCrisis (Aug 7, 2008)

wipe that condensation for sure, i didnt do mine before and now i have a permanent haze on my glass.


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

Byron, I'm jealous! lol I have very hard water here and the mineral deposit build up on this end is heavy and constant. About 1/2 of my tanks are open top and that is one reason for it. I do more frequent water changes when evaporation rates are high, but its worth the extra little bit of work for me. 

Thanks for adding this info to the thread... don't know how I forgot to mention it.


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## SinCrisis (Aug 7, 2008)

Byron, if vinegar doesn't work, is tehre anything else that can remove it? Ive even tried razer blades, but to no avail for my mineral deposits. My water gets run through a softener as well but i get tons of deposits. Only recently, with the warmer weather, my glass is always wet so maybe that will help dissolve some of it?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I've never come across evaporation that bad, with the mineral deposit I mean. Unless it was let go too long. The lights of course will harden it, and the water will soften it, so it needs to be kept in check regularly.

Maybe Dawn can offer something beyond vinegar and razor blades, since she has liquid rock too:lol:.

Byron.


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

I do have another suggestion to offer if its really bad. Python Products has a liquid lime scale remover that works quite well. Its called RYDYT. There are 2 different versions of this product, RYDYT 1 for aquariums that are set up and RYDYT 2 for empty tanks (no plants or animals). The difference in them is the concentration. RYDYT 2 is toxic to the animals if it gets into the water.

Here is a link to the page, scroll down about 1/2 way
Aquarium Accessories - Python Products

If this is to be used for the cover, where it can be removed and rinsed before putting it back onto the tank, I would suggest working with the RYDYT 2, especially if this build up is more than what vinegar seems to handle.

Another option is to soak the cover in straight vinegar for an hour or 2. I have always had better luck with the vinegar than anything else, but just wiping it on/off doesn't usually do the trick, it needs time to soak and sometimes takes repeated attempts. Using a scrubbie pad (fish safe, of course) will help both vinegar and RYDYT cut through the lime scale. Thick lime scale can be a hassle to get through, but keep at it. Once you get through it and can keep up with it regularly (once/twice each wk) then it isn't so bad.

Hope this helps.


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## SinCrisis (Aug 7, 2008)

what kind of vinegar do you normally use? Last time i tried it, all i had was rice vinegar and 2 hrs of soaking turned it only 1 shade less translucent than before.

I cant seem to find rydyt on sale at any of my usual supply sources which worries me. Has this been pulled from production? Actually i cant find much of python's products anywhere anymore...


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

I had heard a while back that Python was struggling with the bad economy. They may have closed down now. I haven't had the time to keep in touch with the owner (whom I am personal friends with) over the past couple of yrs. It will be a sad thing if they have, their products were some of the best on the market. 

I have a family who is all sick with flu/virus issues at the moment, but if I get the chance later this week I can give him a call and find out whats up and if its available anywhere to order.


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## Boredomb (Feb 21, 2011)

Byron said:


> Doing it weekly will be easier. The longer it stays, the harder it is to remove. I have very soft water, so there is minimal mineral deposits on my glass, but it still occurs. I "wash" the glass with paper towels, using the water on the glass, then buff them dry with a cloth towel. If the mineral deposit is stubborn, vinegar can be used in the water to wash it off, then dry it completely.


I wiped it off earlier today with a paper towel and the water that was on the lid and it came right off so it wasn't to hard. It has been like that for about 2 weeks but it always stays wet. I will keep wiping it every week though I don't want it build up to bad and not be able to get it off


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## Mikaila31 (Dec 18, 2008)

Any acid should do, just take them off soak and rinse well before adding. If 5% doesn't work try something stronger lol...

Bettababy I'm impressed that you can run open top in this climate. All my tanks are about as sealed as they can be and evaporation is very minimum. Come winter though I still get a ton of ice built up on the inside of windows. My 55gallon has the glass tops taped to the tank to keep my eels from pushing them up. Everything except where the lids open is taped up.


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## bettababy (Oct 12, 2006)

Mikaila31 I have always run open top tanks whenever possible, I prefer them. I have high evaporation rates at times, up to 2 inches from the 75 gallon in just a couple of days... but if anything it just keeps me diligent on water changes. I can't slack, otherwise we can't hear the tv over the water flowing back into the tank, lol. 

Because of the location of one tank I need to keep it open top or the temp goes over 90 during the winter months and goes down to near 60 in the summer because a heat/AC vent blows on it and the deflectors don't help. Its an African cichlid tank, so they can handle the upper 80's that I maintain it at yr round without a problem. It took a lot of tinkering to find what worked best, 1/2 is covered and the other 1/2 has a cover that stays open yr round, with heater set to upper 80's. 

I have never had ice build up on my windows here. I've lived in Wisconsin most of my life, born and raised here... so I do know what you mean about the icy windows, but this house we bought about 4 yrs ago is insulated quite well. In the winter months my thermostat is always set for at least 72 - 74 degrees, which I'm sure helps, along with the high humidity level that spans the first floor in nearly every room. Between all of the tanks I have almost 1000 gallons of water, and the pair of 215 gallon tanks are both open top. The 75 will be getting a glass tight fitting cover soon when I change it over to saltwater/reef, not sure how much difference that's going to make because it will gain an open top sump of about 20 gallons and a 20 - 30 gallon refugium which will also likely be open top. We were just discussing yesterday what we will be using to cover the thermostat, wall, and carpeting around and under that tank to avoid salt damage to the house. 

But overall, this climate has never been an issue for me with running open top tanks.


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