# what fish can i put in a 20 gallon tank



## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

ok so i jsut got a new 20 gallon tank i have had it running for a day now and i was just wondering if the fish i have listed below will be fine in the tank i have a 20 gallon topfin tank with a 100 watt heater a power filter 20 topfin as well and a 24" flou bulb i have bight white rocks and right now three things in the tank and large hut and mid person thing and a small hut i plan on getting a large tree to go over the small hut the fish i want to get are as follows

6 Tiger barbs
1 Krib(the most common one)
1 Bristtlemose catfish


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

update I have a tank that is tall not long and I plan on putting the tiger barbs in first before anything else and I will not do that until 07/19/12


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## Tazman (Jan 15, 2012)

Do not add any fish until the cycle is complete.

You can read up on cycling methods here. Using fish to cycle a tank is NOT recommended as it causes unnecessary stress and may shorten the fishes lifespan. 

All those fish would work for your tank. The pleco would do well with a piece of Driftwood though.


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## Tazman (Jan 15, 2012)

Thread edited to remove link to duplicate posting. I will delete your other post which is identical to this one.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

ok thanks and how long of a time frame am I looking at for the cycle and i do not really plan and putting those fish in that soon i was just hoping i could


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## Tazman (Jan 15, 2012)

6-8 weeks.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

ok so i planing on using the fish-less cycle with the Shrimp in a pantyhose and doing water test what once or three times a week


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

and are there any other ways to get the bad chems out of the tank like drops or something that will let me put my fish in sooner then 6-8 weeks


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## Varkolak (Jun 9, 2012)

Add plants and skip the entire cycling process, if you have the plants using the ammonia and nitrate then you can put fish in immediately but you have to have the lighting for it. Anacharis, hornwort, duckweed, dwarf water lettuce, water sprite, pennywort, java moss, java fern, and anubias plants are all good low light tank plants


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

I would but i am still new to this stuff and I want to do it the best why i can to help my fish


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

*Need Help choosing the right fish for a 20g*

I just started the cycling my tank last night and I am trying to come up with some ideas for fish i would like to have 6-tiger barbs and 1-krib and 1-bristlenose catfish and maybe some snails to help clean i am willing to change. I just want so fish that like the middle to the top area of the tank and the then some for the bottom of the tank so it lots like i have a lot going on but i dont really thanks for your time and help


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## sidluckman (Jan 15, 2012)

To be honest, I think a twenty gallon tank is too small for barbs. Much as I like them, I have never kept them in tanks smaller than 48 inches long. It's their non-stop activity and need for companionship that, for me, require bigger dimensions. Possibly cherries or checkers, but even those need long stretches of straight and narrow swimming space.Once I kept a school of fifteen Odessas in a 125 and they still bothered the other inhabitants no end. Barbs never seem to have enough, save for those two small species I mentioned. When they spawn, they sort of race down the freeway of love side by side and drop the goods in a clump of plants. My checkers and rubies bred in my 55 planted, and my rosies in an outdoor pond. I can't imagine what they'd do if they got frisky in a 24" tank-- do loop-the-loops?

I think the ancistrus is a good choice, certainly better than the usual CAE or common Hypostomus Pleco. The krib and ancistrus might get in each other's faces. You know where the krib likes to be, right? I would say pick one or the other but not both.

I'd be inclined to try to fit the Ancistrus with some small schooler that might not be so active as barbs: celestial pearl rasboras, espei rasboras, even many of the little tetras are less active than barbs. Any thoughts? I hate to dash people's dreams, but the right combination of fish is worth finding, if it requires a special order at your LFS and a bit more time. . .

Warring fish are just no fun, and barbs are grumpy enough under the best circumstances. . .

What's your typical water like? Hard? Soft? Acidic?


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

I have not gotten that far yet as i am still cycling the tank right now and please feel free to put down my "dreams" as this is why I am asking for help i want a great tank with as much activity as possible. What would be good fish for this and I really want the Rainbow Krid in my tank because i just love the way they look any and all help would be great


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## sidluckman (Jan 15, 2012)

Kribs are beautiful and assertive fish. The females, unlike lots of other cichlids, are the more beautiful sex. I think I would avoid other substrate-oriented fish if you are most attached to the idea of owning one of these. I am wondering though, what I would be willing to risk in a tank of this size. If this were a 40 long, the krib could probably set up housekeeping at one end of the tank and there would still be room for other fish without their being subjected to frequent clobbering!

Upside down cats? Synodontis are peaceful, but not pushovers. This is the smallest one I know of. Small tank size. Soft water neutral to acidic. . . I will keep thinking.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

A guy at my LPS(not petsmart) told me i could keep 10 bleeding heart tetras and 3-4 cory catfish with the krid


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## sidluckman (Jan 15, 2012)

Bleeding hearts might work. Last time I kept them they badgered my angels something fierce. They might be okay with the Krib: my last experience with them told me they are tougher than people think. Not occupying the same level in the tank as the Krib is also a bonus. Seems like a lot of fish for a twenty, but do-able if you are a faithful water-changer. 

Corys could be okay; I think you should include lots of tangled driftwood so everyone has their own "crib" so to speak!


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

OK so and I want to get a auto fish feeder but do i need two or three because of the different fish types?


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## sidluckman (Jan 15, 2012)

Probably not. Automatic fish feeders should be used to help you out on occasion, but can't solve all your issues. Some fish need an extra hand to make sure they get fed. If you have lots of very aggressive feeders that crowd the surface, will your ancistrus and cory cats get enough? Sometimes we need to "target feed" those fish, or feed at night when the lights are out so those nocturnal feeders won't go hungry. . .


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

About how many times should i feed a day for the fish I mean I am gone about 12-14 hours a day so I could feed them two times right now is that to little?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

I would not have Tiger Barb in this small a tank, and certainly not with a cichlid who will likely be targeted. The feisty nipping of TB can be curtailed by having a larger group (8 is minimum for this species) and in a larger space (30g minimum). Fewer fish and in a smaller space is much more likely to cause increased aggressive behaviour, and a sedate fish such as a krib would probably be targeted.

I would look for more peaceful and less rambunctious fish to mix with the krib. Some of the rasbora species (medium, not the dwarf species) would be better.

Byron.

P.S. I came across another thread on the same topic that had posts from other members, so I have merged it in to this earlier thread.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

If it was your tank what would be your top three types of fish to put in the tank with the Krib and the 3 Cory Catfish


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> If it was your tank what would be your top three types of fish to put in the tank with the Krib and the 3 Cory Catfish


I don't really like suggesting specific fish species to others, as it is your aquarium. When i see problems I comment, as i did previously.;-) But have a browse in the profiles, under cyprinids for the medium rasbora, and characins for some peaceful tetra. In a 20g I would have just one group of maybe 7 or 8, depending upon species.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

What about Black Phantom tetras have about 8 of them in there?


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

Sorry Change that I read the profile on them and they wouldnt do good in my tank How about Head and Tail Light Tetras


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> Sorry Change that I read the profile on them and they wouldnt do good in my tank How about Head and Tail Light Tetras


Yes. They are peaceful, and tend to remain in the upper half of the water column, so that works well with dwarf cichlids that tend to stay in the lower half.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

ok great thanks guys for the help :-D


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## KPainter (Jun 12, 2012)

I have to put a nod in for Von Rio Tetras. I love mine - they're fun to watch, have a nice bit of color and seem to do really well together. I have them in a 16g and they're doing great. (They've already spawned once that I know of...)


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

As soon as i get my video recorder back I will post a Video of my tank before and after my fish are in there


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## AndrewM21 (Mar 4, 2012)

I just stocked my 20G tank today and I put 6 tiger barbs (3 regular, 3 green), 3 Cory Cats, 1 Pleco, & 1 ADF. 

I'm debating on moving the ADF to my 50G tank though since barbs tend to be semi-aggressive at times if there aren't enough in the tank but I'm not sure yet, we'll see how it goes but I'm sure he'll be fine in there. 

I'm not recommending any of the fish above since it's your aquarium but I thought I'd chime in since I just did the exact same thing you are in the process of doing. 

I did however skip the traditional cycling methods by planting the tank, which I do with all of the tanks I get now and I haven't had a problem to this date.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

_Posted via Mobile Device_

A few pics of my fish tank without fish right now


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## sidluckman (Jan 15, 2012)

Addition of live plants (and accompanying substrate) might bring in some beneficial bacteria and so speed up the cycling process. From my limited reading, plants seem able to absorb ammonium, though not ammonia, through leaves and utilize nitrates through their roots; nothing I found suggested that plants could keep up with metabolic wastes produced by fish and thus replace a fully cycled biological filter.

I really don't like to contradict people on open forums (my apologies, Vark!) so I will gladly "eat my hat" if I am wrong. I will also widely advocate the addition of live plants to new systems! 

My usual suggestion to speed the cycling process is to borrow media from an established (and healthy tank) and insert it into your own system where it can inculcate the new aquarium.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

I was told that the with plants you could skip the whole cycling part or at least make it faster then 6-8 weeks because the plants will take in the Nitrite and ammonia in the tank and the CO2 that the fish give off I will be putting more plants in there that are fast growing and then in a week I will check the chemls in the tank and post my readings to see.


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## sidluckman (Jan 15, 2012)

I read that post, too, and since this is your first tank I just wanted to let you know I am not sure the information was accurate. I did a little reading, as I mentioned, and did not uncover anything that assured me that plants can be made to work in place of a fully cycled filter.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

I am going to keep testing it once I get the kit for it and when the lvls are right I will then add in the fish, but I still like the idea of having real plants in there because IMO they look better then the fake ones but takes for the heads up.:-D


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

sidluckman said:


> I read that post, too, and since this is your first tank I just wanted to let you know I am not sure the information was accurate. I did a little reading, as I mentioned, and did not uncover anything that assured me that plants can be made to work in place of a fully cycled filter.


It may be a misunderstanding as to exactly what occurs, so I'll try to elucidate.

All new aquaria will go through a "cycle" during which nitrifying bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira) become established. This takes time, and rather than go into all that, have a read of my article:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-articles/bacteria-freshwater-aquarium-74891/

The benefit of live plants, provided there are enough of them and they are reasonably fast growing (floating and stem plants generally supply this), is the uptake of ammonia from day one so that fish can be put in the new tank with no harmful effects to the fish, provided they do not overwhelm the ability of the plants. Lots of plants and few fish, with the fish increased gradually. There is thus no waiting, and no detriment to the fish. The bacteria will still establish, but minimally by comparison to having no live plants. You will not detect any ammonia or nitrite using our test kits because the ammonia is grabbed quickly by the plants and any left gets taken up by Nitrosomonas bacteria.

That covers the initial "cycling" period. Long-term, live plants can replace the filter, again provided there are sufficient plants and the fish load is balanced. Plants can take up pretty much anything likely to appear in the aquarium in the way of natural toxins. Nevertheless, most of us do have a filter; the primary task is water circulation and removal of suspended particulate matter (the mechanical filtration aspect). Chemical filtration (carbon and such) is never required with plants, since this competes for nutrients. And biological filtration will occur in any aquarium, but should not be encouraged. The plants will do the job if allowed to.

Byron.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

Thanks Byron you have been a big help I will be picking up some Giant Hrgrophila and some Wisteria when i get off work to put into my tank when i get home. 

This should help cycle the tank because they are both fast growing plants right?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> Thanks Byron you have been a big help I will be picking up some Giant Hrgrophila and some Wisteria when i get off work to put into my tank when i get home.
> 
> This should help cycle the tank because they are both fast growing plants right?


Yes. They will need fertilizing with a complete liquid fertilizer. Fast growing plants need more nutrients and good light.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

What brands would be best for those plants?


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> What brands would be best for those plants?


I know of two complete fertilizers in liquid. Brightwell Aquatics' *FlorinMulti*, and Seachem's* Flourish Comprehensive Supplement*. I use the latter because I can buy it in bulk (2 litre jugs) and save a lot of money long-term.

Whichever you get, make sure it is the product specified; both manufacturers have several different products in their respective line.

Byron.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

The guy at my LFS told me not to worry about that yet as I am still cycling the tank right should i get some later down the road like a month after it is done cycling?


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## AndrewM21 (Mar 4, 2012)

Capra said:


> The guy at my LFS told me not to worry about that yet as I am still cycling the tank right should i get some later down the road like a month after it is done cycling?


If you intend to have plants then I would really recommend having some type of supplement for them. I agree with Byron's suggestion in regards to seachem flourish. I have been using this product twice a week for a while now and I have only seen improvements from it. 

Of course if you are going to cycle your tank plant-less then none of that is necessary. 

Some hardy plants that I used in my 20G are below, I enjoy them but it all really depends on your personal preference 

Spiralis (Very messy when moving, adding, removing though. But they look great!)
Anacharis (Floater, one of my favorites)
Java Fern/Moss (Love both, the moss is a great addition to Decor)


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## KPainter (Jun 12, 2012)

What kind of substrate is that? Gravel might be hard on the cories.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> The guy at my LFS told me not to worry about that yet as I am still cycling the tank right should i get some later down the road like a month after it is done cycling?


I've heard this advice previously, and I don't agree with it. Plants need food--nutrients. And in new tanks these are non-existant so it is even more important to provide them. A comprehensive liquid is sufficient.

Also, remember we are technically not "cycling" the tank, we are setting it up on day one and going from there, so the sooner we get all the biological processes working together, the better.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

Bright White gravel made by topfin in hindsight I would have got something different but to late now I guess:-( maybe later down the road when I have the time and money I will get something else but until then I am stuck with it.

And Byron I will pick some up on Monday as my LFS is closed until then thanks for the help will post new pics with my new plants added in.

I also got another piece of drift wood and when you see the pics tell me if I should add it i dont think there is room for it.


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> Bright White gravel made by topfin in hindsight I would have got something different but to late now I guess:-( maybe later down the road when I have the time and money I will get something else but until then I am stuck with it.
> 
> And Byron I will pick some up on Monday as my LFS is closed until then thanks for the help will post new pics with my new plants added in.
> 
> I also got another piece of drift wood and when you see the pics tell me if I should add it i dont think there is room for it.


Make sure the "white" gravel isn't calcareous, which will raise GH and pH; it should say this on the bag. If you want to change, now is the time to do it; tearing down a tank that has established to change the substrate is more work than changing now. And for something inexpensive, use play sand. I have 5, soon to be 6, tanks with Quikrete Play Sand. A few dollars for a 50 pound bag.;-)


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

So I tested my water and everything is fine I am about to add my two new kribs in there in 20 mins


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## Tazman (Jan 15, 2012)

Fine in what sense? what are the readings?


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

idk my LFS tested the water for me they didnt give me the readings but said everything was where it needs to be to put fish in


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## Byron (Mar 7, 2009)

Capra said:


> idk my LFS tested the water for me they didnt give me the readings but said everything was where it needs to be to put fish in


Not saying anything is necessarily wrong here, but for the future so you know--always ask them for numbers. If there should be a problem here, and you asked us for advice, without those numbers we would be unable to offer any. What is "fine" to the store employee might not be to me, or Tazman, or whomever.

And it is worth the investment to get yourself a basic test kit. API make a "Master" liquid kit (more reliable than test strips) that includes tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. These are the basic tests you want to be doing initially, and once the tank is both cycled and established, periodic tests for pH and nitrates is wise.
Byron.


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## Capra (Jul 17, 2012)

ok will do I will get a testing kit asap and post the numbers


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