# Tiger Shovelnose



## cullens089 (Jun 19, 2007)

well i just got a tiger shovelnose 2 days ago and now he has ick. But he wont eat or move either. hes not dead cause if i provoke him to move he will move but i dont know what to do. i tried to feed him frozen brine shrimp, feeder guppies, and nightcrawlers and shrimp pellets. im going to be moving him into a quarantine tank soon but im so worried about him. the first nite i had him he ate so much and now he wont eat. btw the first time i fed him he ate frozen bloodworms. is it the ick that is taking his appetite away?


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## GregV (Aug 10, 2007)

if its ich, i would move him before the deasease moves into its transit state, you may even have to treat the aquarium as a whole now either way.

my best sugestion for now is move him to a tank, and slowly raise the temperature to 82 to 84 degrees over a period of a few days, add abit of salt awell. this will really help him out.


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## cullens089 (Jun 19, 2007)

i dont get why he has ick tho cause the tank itslef is pretty warm like 84-86 F but anywho hes the only one with it and you would think my clown loaches would get it becasue there prone to it but they dont. today is the first day ick showed up. you guys think a 20 gallon tote tub with a bubbler and heater to use as a quick hospital tank til tomorrow so i can go out a buy another tank. the bubbler is hooked up to a 100 air pump.


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## Lupin (Aug 2, 2006)

cullens089 said:


> i dont get why he has ick tho cause the tank itslef is pretty warm like 84-86 F but anywho hes the only one with it and you would think my clown loaches would get it becasue there prone to it but they dont. today is the first day ick showed up. you guys think a 20 gallon tote tub with a bubbler and heater to use as a quick hospital tank til tomorrow so i can go out a buy another tank. the bubbler is hooked up to a 100 air pump.


The only reason loaches are prone to ich is because they are scaleless which does not grant them full protection from the ich. Epidermis exposed and that's where the ich is not easily affected by the medicines and salt hence granting the recommendation to increase the temperature to allow the ich to cycle quickly and at free-swimming stage, it should render them totally vulnerable to medicines and salt.

I would actually treat the whole community. It is rather irrelevant to move the patient. What is the point anyway when ich has already been introduced?


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## cullens089 (Jun 19, 2007)

im going to treat the tsn in a seperate tank and the whole big tank also. the reason i moved him was cause no one els showed signs yet so i figured id get him out asap before he gives it to other fish. one question i have is would ick guard II which is made for scaleless fish be ok for stingrays. i have 2 in my community tank until my 240 is done cycling. oh and one more question would the ick be a reason why my tsn wont really move or eat also?


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## Gump (Oct 26, 2006)

higher temps don't kill ich but it does speed up the life cycle of the parasite a lot. I would treat the whole tank since if you can see ich its already in its last stage so its already in the tank. Raise the temp to 86, make sure you have good oxygen transfer and add some salt, just watch the progress of the cat and the loaches. I wouldn't even try to feed the fish for a few days.


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## cullens089 (Jun 19, 2007)

ok. the only fish who had ick was my tsn. i was worried my stingrays would be hurt by the ick guard II but its made for scaless fish.


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## Gump (Oct 26, 2006)

even if its made for scaleless fish i would still take great care with the rays.


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## GregV (Aug 10, 2007)

personally the temperture raise and salt is the best option IMHO


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## cullens089 (Jun 19, 2007)

thats why i havent used the meds in my community tank cause the rays are in there and i dont know if i can use the meds with them or the salt. but the temp is up and the tsn is in a hospital tank and being treated. but some good news is that the tsn is now eating


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