# Just setup 29G Biocube....



## Realistik84

So I set it up over the weekend.

I maintained everything stock at this point.

I added 30lbs aragonite
I added 20lbs of premium pre-cured live rock (selected pieces with lots of coralline)

Here are my questions:
- What should I look for over the next days/week?
- When should I look to add my CUC?
- When and how often should I test?

I broke some rules, and am wondering if I will learn to regret it?

For instance, in speaking with LFS, they said tap water at this point is fine, and the only risk is algae growth? I did this because to get RO/DI water and fill 29 gallon worth would be a pain...thoughts?

Should I leave lights on normal cycle? What cycle is said to be best?
I purchased this power strip --> 
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753204
Did anyone else use this and what do you think?

Waiting on wifey to find charger for camera then will post pics...


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## Pasfur

I think you are fine. It would have been ideal to start with RO, but this isn't going to be the end all of success for you. Just be careful about this stuff. Cutting corners in a marine tank can be a serious mistake.

At this point monitor for ammonia and nitrite. You may not see any readings at all, depending on the quality of the live rock you purchased and how long it had been at the LFS.

Within a couple of weeks your diatom bloom will begin. At this point add a small CUC, and begin testing for alkalinity and calcium, adding buffers and calcium supplement as needed.

The light cycle is not relevant until you get corals. It is more for your personal viewing pleasure.


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## Realistik84

Pasfur said:


> I think you are fine. It would have been ideal to start with RO, but this isn't going to be the end all of success for you. Just be careful about this stuff. Cutting corners in a marine tank can be a serious mistake.
> 
> At this point monitor for ammonia and nitrite. You may not see any readings at all, depending on the quality of the live rock you purchased and how long it had been at the LFS.
> 
> Within a couple of weeks your diatom bloom will begin. At this point add a small CUC, and begin testing for alkalinity and calcium, adding buffers and calcium supplement as needed.
> 
> The light cycle is not relevant until you get corals. It is more for your personal viewing pleasure.


 
Thanks. I have seen the advice you give others in the past. I think it is awesome that you are so passionate about something to enable others to be successful due to that passion. In other words thanks for being awesome!!!

They said the live rock has been there about 4 months (not sure how true...) 

It was out of water for about 1hr 30 mins.

So if I get this advice you gave me, I should wait for some algae (diatoms...are they the same?) to form before adding a CUC. 

The LFS told me come back in about a week to add a CUC and 1 clown or something...too early?


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## Pasfur

Realistik84 said:


> The LFS told me come back in about a week to add a CUC and 1 clown or something...too early?


I think it is far to early to add a Clownfish. You could add a CUC, but this causes some harm. They will browse on the microfauna that are growing in your sand and live rock. Copepods, amphipods, etc. These little critters will appreciate a few weeks to spread without having their populations lessened by opportunistic feeders. 

My only goal for the first 2 or 3 weeks is to get very strong populations of microfauna growing. If left alone, within a couple of weeks you will see copepods covering the front glass and amphipods scurrying about in the sand. This takes a trained eye, so watch closely for several minutes. Your eyes will adjust and begin to recognize what you did not see there before.

In a couple of weeks you will begin to see a light brown dusting on the rock and sand. It will happen almost overnight and cover almost everything. This is the diatom bloom. This is when I advise adding the first 1/3 of your CUC.


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## Realistik84

Well noted. I am all for being patient, especially considering cost lol.

Here is the latest update. I ran tests using API Marine Master Test kit

High Range PH - 7.8ish
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 0
Ammonia - 0
Salinity - 1.245

Here is what concerns me*.....MY TANK IS COMPLETELY WHITE! :shock:*

*Using my freshwater knowledge this typically means ammonio spike, but according to tests above it reads 0*. WHAT DO I DO HAHAHAHA

Here are some pictures:
Keepin it Real with da Walczaks: Tank Today

I am all for posting picture in here, but am unsure how.


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## Pasfur

It looks like your sand was stirred up. I would test for ammonia and nitrite again in 24 hours, just to see what you get. 

Here is how to upload pics:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/how-use-fishforum-com/how-upload-pictures-18568/

I personally download pics to Photobucket, then just copy the img code into the thread. Very easy.


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## Realistik84

Pasfur said:


> It looks like your sand was stirred up. I would test for ammonia and nitrite again in 24 hours, just to see what you get.
> 
> Here is how to upload pics:
> http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/how-use-fishforum-com/how-upload-pictures-18568/
> 
> I personally download pics to Photobucket, then just copy the img code into the thread. Very easy.


 
Thanks - that really helps. 

I noticed this morning that the cloudiness has subsided somewhat. It is still cloudy, but not nearly as much. 

I will keep an eye on it throughout the week.

On a side note - I purchased a Red Sea Hydrometer 
Aquarium Testing: Red Sea Hydrometer with Liquid Crystal Thermometer

So far, I am not pleased. I read the instructions thoroughly and cannot get an accurate reading. Also, the digital thermometer is not working. I will be trying to figure it out today otherwise it is going back. 


I know I have to be patient and let things settle....but man it can be frustrating. I know the beauty will make it rewarding though. I cant wait to get some nice pics up here for everyone.


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## Realistik84

The tank is definately clearing up now. I am going to set the measurables again tonight. 

Here is the latest picture...I re-scaped the live rock. I am so excited about this setup!


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## Pasfur

Very nice. I like the aquascapping! I know the picture is cloudy, but I don't see any power heads. Be sure to add at least one, and preferably 2 as soon as possible. Water circulation is critical to helping prevent problem algae and cyno outbreaks.


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## teddyzaper

looking good, i also really like the aquascaping! i hope mine will turn out at least half as good!


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## Realistik84

As of right now only the stock pump for water flow. My LFS (and I have quite a few reputable nearby which is odd for Buffalo, NY) suggested that I purchase a Koralia 2, it was around$35. I couldnt get it because I just spent $192 on live rock and heater.

BTW - Did they screw me? Since I purchased, I see many who buy base rock with maybe 10-20% live rock, where as I purchased 100% live rock!!!!

When should I "expect" diatom blooms, and microfuana growth?


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## CamryDS

Realistik84 said:


> As of right now only the stock pump for water flow. My LFS (and I have quite a few reputable nearby which is odd for Buffalo, NY) suggested that I purchase a Koralia 2, it was around$35. I couldnt get it because I just spent $192 on live rock and heater.
> 
> BTW - Did they screw me? Since I purchased, I see many who buy base rock with maybe 10-20% live rock, where as I purchased 100% live rock!!!!
> 
> When should I "expect" diatom blooms, and microfuana growth?


Koralia 2 has a huge footprint in a 30 gallon bio cube, I'd go for a koralia 1 instead.


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## Realistik84

"BTW - Did they screw me? Since I purchased, I see many who buy base rock with maybe 10-20% live rock, where as I purchased 100% live rock!!!!"

What about the above piece - I am really curious to know what experts would say about that....


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## Bluetangclan

Well if you are in the US and paid 192 bucks for 20 pounds of live rock then my vote is yes you got screwed. If you are in Canada or Australia then it sounds about right(assuming both locations sell at the same average). Thats what 8.99 a pound plus tax? Not overly so, just seems high to me for some reason. Expensive rock here is 7.99 or so, normal is 4.99 - 6.99 depending on the LFS.


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## Pasfur

I use about 80% dry rock and at most 20% live rock on my setups. On a 29 gallon tank, I would suggest 25 pounds of Key Largo dry rock from Marco Rocks The finest aquarium rock available, base rock, live rock, reef rock, marco rock, reef tank saltwater fish, live corals, Marco rocks, Fiji live rock, Tonga Live rock and about 10 pounds of good quality live rock. This method takes longer for a tank to mature, but results in amazing quality rock after several months. Look at the dry rock from my 180 FOWLR, set up in April 2009:









It takes time to look totally natural, but within 3 months or so, in my experience, you can't tell it from purchased live rock. For all practical purposes, it is live. By the way, that is coraline algae growth you are seeing.


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## Realistik84

Wow that is an amazing picture - look at that corraline.

So, maybe this will help me rest assured - Since I bought ALL premium live rock, is it safe to say my tank will be cycled within 1 month rather than 3? From your message it also seems that base rock + live rock will have better long term effects?

I am just going to be pissed (and let them know) if most of the corraline will die off over the next month to the point where it is really no more beneficial than 90/10 base:live rock ratio.


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## Pasfur

Realistik84 said:


> So, maybe this will help me rest assured - Since I bought ALL premium live rock, is it safe to say my tank will be cycled within 1 month rather than 3? From your message it also seems that base rock + live rock will have better long term effects?
> 
> I am just going to be pissed (and let them know) if most of the corraline will die off over the next month to the point where it is really no more beneficial than 90/10 base:live rock ratio.


This isn't really what I was trying to communicate. I was trying to say that over the long run, after a few months, it doesn't matter if you use 100% live rock or a mix of both. Either way, you will get the same effect. One is not better than the other. It is the QUALITY of the rock that matters, not if the rock is live or not at the time of purchase. You want porous rock that can easily seed with bacteria and microfauna.

If you want that coraline to thrive, then alkalinity and calcium tests will be your best friend!


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## Realistik84

Pasfur said:


> This isn't really what I was trying to communicate. I was trying to say that over the long run, after a few months, it doesn't matter if you use 100% live rock or a mix of both. Either way, you will get the same effect. One is not better than the other. It is the QUALITY of the rock that matters, not if the rock is live or not at the time of purchase. You want porous rock that can easily seed with bacteria and microfauna.
> 
> If you want that coraline to thrive, then alkalinity and calcium tests will be your best friend!


 
I see...If we assume for a moment everyone uses RO/DI water that is 100% purified, would I be correct in assuming everyone would have the same alkalinity/calcium levels?

Have you had good luck with chemicals being introduced or have you found that it is a not necessary money pit.


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## wake49

Realistik84 said:


> I see...If we assume for a moment everyone uses RO/DI water that is 100% purified, would I be correct in assuming everyone would have the same alkalinity/calcium levels?


I wouldn't assume this myself. I would rather say that two tanks with similiar stocking levels, amounts of Rock and sand, and even s.g. would use calcium at different rates. My friend and I both have 150 gallon tanks. We set them up within weeks of each other. I have to dose Calcium and Alk twice a week minimum and he doses twice a month if that. We both use RO/DI, have corals (both LPS and softies), and keep our tanks with generally the same stocking levels. I have coraline all over my glass, baffles, rocks and powerheads (it actually is becoming a nuisance). He has almost no coraline growth what-so-ever.


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## Realistik84

Well,
This much is for sure, those who maintain an active and healthy saltwater aquarium are scientists. 

So scientists, I propose this question:

For the 29Gallon Biocube currently with stock pump:
- What Protein Skimmer would be ideal, and is a protein skimmer a must have (or even highly recommended) in a tank of this size. 

- When should it be introduced?


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## Pasfur

CamryDS is working on a 29 biocube thread with an extensive amount of information specifically related to the protein skimmer options. This is a very specific question that applies only to the BC29, so I would look at his thread, or perhaps he can elaborate on the information provided by BettaBaby. (Her husband is somewhat of an expert on the biocubes, as a sales rep for marineland)


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## Realistik84

Havent updated in a while but here is the latest.

I have re-aquascaped...well actually the wife did. You will see this in the *2nd Picture.* She watched all 4 of my revisions, and it was funny to watch her because she was so scared to put her hands in the tank hahaha. nonetheless, to see an outsider's point of view for a few times helped her. She did a good job building off of my orignal ideas and failed attempts to construct it...

I would like a few people to look at the following pictures and give me some thoughts:

1st and 3rd: SHow some white hair like looking growth. Also, you can see that rocks have sand on them. I feel like the sand is impossible to prevent from being on live rock, but also remeber previous posts indicating its not good...is this normal?

4th and 5th: You can see the live rock looks "rusty" - Is this diatom growth? I always understood this to be an overnight things and NO WAY to miss it...but I would quite classify the pictures being "live rock absolutely covered in in".


Any advice one can offer is greatly appreciated, and since Pasfur has been the main one aiding me in my venture...thanks in adavance Pasfur!


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## Pasfur

A small dusting of sand on the live rock will be hard to prevent. You are fine at this point.

I don't think that is a diatom. The key is looking at the sand, because it is solid white. The diatom will cover both sand and rock. I think you just have some interesting growth on the live rock right now. 

It is possible, but unusual, to not have a diatom bloom. If the rock was very mature and carefully transported, then you may have to watch for other signs of tank maturity. Coraline algae growth would be one indicator, as would watching for a prolific supply of copepods and amphipods.


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## Realistik84

Its been a few weeks since updating - Everything is coming across nicely. For those who are new and feel so lost, comfort comes with time, and patience is key.

Below are some pictures of final aquascape and some life.

- I currently have:
2 Clowns
6 hermits (3 Blue legged, 3 Red Reef Hermits)
1 Astrea Snail
1 Margherita Snail
2 Nassarius Snails
2 Peppermint Shrimp

I am thinking a need for a few more snails to eat the hair algae growing on glass and back panel....Thoughts?

Some may think I moved kind of fast, there may be truth to that. I did purchase ALL premium live rock, which showed signs of being fully cured...thoughts on this would be appreciated as well?


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## Pasfur

You know, you moved a little fast in the traditional sense, but the tank looks nice. Every tank behaves a little bit differently, and purchasing the high quality live rock made a huge difference in the time frame you have had to deal with. I think you've done a nice job.

I would like to see some coraline algae begin to spread soon. Are you on top of the alkalinity and calcium levels?


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## Realistik84

Pasfur said:


> You know, you moved a little fast in the traditional sense, but the tank looks nice. Every tank behaves a little bit differently, and purchasing the high quality live rock made a huge difference in the time frame you have had to deal with. I think you've done a nice job.
> 
> *I would like to see some coraline algae begin to spread soon. Are you on top of the alkalinity and calcium levels?*




NO! How do I measure? my API test kit is labaled as "Marine", and I believe I came across a "Reef Master" test kit from API in the past...I assume that would measure the alkalinity/Calcium?

What should I really keep in mind for Coralline growth, what suggestions (or resources to be studied) do you recommend?


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## Pasfur

Coraline growth is a good indicator of the stability of a marine environment. As it takes hold it makes it difficult for other algae types to to spread. Coraline grows best in an environment that has proper alkalinity and calcium levels, which is no surprise because calcium is the leading buffering ions in saltwater and exists in a perfect ratio with all the other buffering ions. Testing for alkalinity and calcium together allows you to observe the trends, and get a "leading indicator" as to the overall stability of the environment, long before actual problems begin to occur. More on this here: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...calcium-testing-important-every-marine-33079/

I keep my alkalinity between 8 and 12 dkh. I keep Calcium at 400 to 460 ppm. I use Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH as an alkalinity buffer and Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Chloride as a calcium supplement. This are the 2 test I do every week, and I consider them far more important than my other tests. In fact, my success with saltwater systems really began with the purchase of an alkalinity test kit and buffer.

For the record, many hobbyists, including Wake and others here at TFk, use the B Ionic 2 part calcium and alkalinity additive. It is also very reliable and easy to use.


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## Realistik84

Pasfur - I just realized you are in "Recovery Mode" - I hope you are feeling better and all is going well.

I guess on the upside - you are able to sit around and look at your masterpieces all day

Do you have any familiarity with "Red Sea Test Labs Master Reef Lab" - It seems like a nice price point, and tests for lots of things...if not that, what do you recommend for testing.

I currently have the API Marine test kit only.

Also, from the tests I assume it would be expected to be low, and thusly need to dose.

You use Kent Marine Super Buffer DKH as an alkalinity buffer and Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Chloride as a calcium supplement.

Others use the B Ionic 2 part calcium and alkalinity additive.

Are there pros and cons of each - Time, cost, your method/products are better quality? 

Not sure which route to take. 

Thanks Pasfur


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## n1zjd

I have the Red Sea Marine Lab and the API Reef Master test kits. I like the API kits MUCH better. The results are easier to read IMO. I also have the BIonic 2 part but I havent needed to use them yet. My tank is on week 3 of the cycle right now so Im still just waiting patiently.


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## Realistik84

I still have yet to purchase a test kit, because I am thoroughly confused. It seems like over 100 test kits exists... :-( 

I currently have testing for PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate. 

I need something for Calcium, Alkalinity but dont seem to find one that has both of those tests?

I have found:

API Reef Master - Calcium, Carbonate Hardness, Phosphate, Nitrate
Red Sea ReefMaster - PH, Ammonia, Alkalinity, Nitrite, Nitrate
The two above each contain stuff I already have tests for, but neither contain both Calcium and Alkalinity.

Then there are tests for Magnesium, Iodine, Silica, Residual Ozone and Oxygen, Carbonate Borate, Strontium...? WOW!

"A Saltwater hobbyist is by all means a scientist" - Realistik

Any help would be great.


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## Pasfur

Realistik84 said:


> I have found:
> 
> API Reef Master - Calcium, Carbonate Hardness, Phosphate, Nitrate
> Red Sea ReefMaster - PH, Ammonia, Alkalinity, Nitrite, Nitrate
> The two above each contain stuff I already have tests for, but neither contain both Calcium and Alkalinity.
> 
> Then there are tests for Magnesium, Iodine, Silica, Residual Ozone and Oxygen, Carbonate Borate, Strontium...? WOW!


I used the Red Sea kits for years, but am in the process of a complete switch to API. The API kits are easier to use and read. You have to buy Calcium and Alkalinity individually, they generally don't come in the kits. There is a school of thought that says these kits are only needed on reef tanks, which is ridiculous in my opinion. I think this originates from the LFS trying to convince the average Joe that saltwater isn't much different than freshwater.

As far as product, you could make an argument that BIonic is the best. I use the Kent products because I am comfortable with them after 10 years or longer using them. The BIonic product is really about the same thing, with one part being Calcium Chloride and the other part being carbonate and bicarbonate buffers.


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## n1zjd

Realistik84 said:


> I have found:
> 
> API Reef Master - Calcium, Carbonate Hardness, Phosphate, Nitrate
> Red Sea ReefMaster - PH, Ammonia, Alkalinity, Nitrite, Nitrate
> The two above each contain stuff I already have tests for, but neither contain both Calcium and Alkalinity.


Call me crazy, but isnt Carbonate Hardness in the API Reef Master kit what we want for an Alkalinity test?


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