# 100g Build



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Me and the wife have decided to take the plunge and start a new first saltwater aquarium. After months of reading and reading and talking to people, and reading some more, we're ready to start.

We got a great deal on the 100g tank not "marine ready" however I don't mind a few tubes hanging off the side. We want to take everything slow, and make sure everything is right, starting it as a FOWLR at first and getting into reef months down the road. We also want to cure our own live rock first to save a little bit of money. Having it be reef down the road I'd like to keep it reef only fish at first etc.

So far we have this for a fish list:
2 Clown Fish (Percula or Ocellaris)
Pacific Blue Tang
Yellow Tang
Green Mandarin Goby
2 Domino Damsels
3-4 Blue Damsels
Yellow Watchman Goby

Anemones/Coral/Invertebrate:
Bubble Tip Anemone
Giant Carpet Anemone
Magnificent Anemone
Fire Shrimp
Blue Leg Hermit Crab
Red Starfish
Turbo Snails
etc. (haven't finished this list yet, any suggestions would be awesome)

I know both tangs might be aggressive with each other, however it being a decent size tank I'm willing to go for it if I get them in at the same time while they are young.


Equipment: (This is where I'm having trouble right now)

Eshopps Sump and Overflow
Skimmer (not sure)
Powerheads (not sure)
Lighting (some kind of T-5 fixture)
Fluval E Series Heater 300W
Still looking for a good RO filter as well

Substrate:
125-150lbs of dry rock (plus a bit of live rock to start curing)
Live sand (I want to keep it sand on top. Would it be wise or dumb to put a layer of crushed coral underneath the layer of sand. If not, what about a mixture of the two?)

Q-tank:
20g long
Whisper EX30
Standard heater

Gonna leave this post as is for now, it's getting long. Just wanted to get some insight on the basic equipment etc.


----------



## frothyspoon (Jul 21, 2010)

for the skimmer you may want to try a marineland protein skimmer because they are compact and there aren't pipes or motors hanging off of it. I have hydor powerheads and they really look nice in the tank. If you do use PVC for your overflow and return on the sump be sure to use marine approved silicon. You may want to buy some egg crate material from a hardware store and use it on the bottom of the tank before you add the substrate in case any of your rocks fall so it won't break the bottom of the aquarium. You can use the egg crate to anchor your live rock onto it using zip ties as well. Another good idea is using a small piece of the egg crate to cover the top of your overflow so no fish decide to take a trip to your sump. Last suggestion is to use threaded joints on your return and drain lines so you can take them apart for cleaning if you're using PVC. You probably knew most of this since i'm in the exact same position as you except i'm just adding water so if you have any tips you have learned and would like to tell me about them I would love to hear them.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks for the input Frothy. We haven't decided on much of anything just yet, but we really want to make sure we do this right (since this is our first marine). I'll try to help with any tips as we build ours. Do you have a link/post for your build?

I think what I may have to start out with is to finish waiting till the tank gets here (or go to where it is and measure the dimensions of the cabinet underneath to see how big of a sump I can put in it). Then just buy the overflow, skimmer, and pump once I figure out the size of the sump. I'm not comfortable enough yet to build my own. I figured I'll just buy my very first one, and any tank after (oh yes there will be more), I'll most def build it. (I know I'm leaving something out here).

As for the powerheads, I'm going to have to finish my reef/coral list and kinda see how much flow I'm going to need for whatever I put in there. I don't want to buy X powerheads and then learn later I have to have a more or less powerful one in a certain area of the tank (I hope I'm right on that). I may just get a couple cheap ones for the rock curing for now and then when I buy the ones I really want, move the cheap ones to my water change container to mix the salt better.


----------



## frothyspoon (Jul 21, 2010)

sounds like a great plan i'm looking forward to seeing it once it's finished

http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/saltwater-aquariums/new-saltwater-aquariums-need-bit-help-52458/
thats the post i made a few days ago listing everything I have going on in my tank. If you have any suggestions about my build I would love to hear them.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Well I'm stuck on a sump/refugium still. Not too many out there that will fit the skimmer I want (ASM G-2). Or I could find another skimmer. These two do but they are a tad pricey.

Eshopps Refugium R-300, 2nd Gen
ADHI Refugium 45

Both fit underneath pretty good, so thats not a problem. Or I could just get brave and just glue two pieces of acrylic into a 10 gal. (more or less)

Other pieces...I guess I'm going to go with a PF-1200 Eshopps for the Overflow Box, and a Mag MD-12 for the sump pump. Still working on the powerheds, but I'll get into that later.

If anyone has any other suggestions PLEASE feel free. I'm almost up in arms here.


----------



## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

your trying to keep alot of things that may not do the best here. why all the damsels? thats asking for trouble in itself. by green goby im guessing the dragonet? you also want 3 anems which are inverts by the way but i suggest not getting one until the tanks been going steady for about a year. i would also hold off on the dragonet for about a year too so theres a supply of pods. the starfish can be tricky too as they need a good food source on the rocks to graze on. im not saying any of this cant be kept but it will test your patience. 
i do suggest looking into glass-holes for an overflow, thats what i would do personally. i would also construct my own sump from a used tank. the store made ones look nice and fancy but the price really is up there. they also arnt very custom when it comes to things fitting and being build how you want it. you may be better off with 2 slightly smaller heaters then rather 1 large one too. i personally like hydor Ks for powerheads. i wouldnt mix the crushed coral and sand personally i would just do all sand. either less then an inch or 4 - 6 inches. anything in between creates a problem. i like ASM too, i ran a mini G on a smaller tank awhile back and liked it. hope that helps some.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

> your trying to keep alot of things that may not do the best here. why all the damsels?


At first I only wanted 1 or 2 blue damsels. Then I heard from a couple places it was good to keep the 4+ blue damsels in a group for schooling purposes. I know a lot of tangs and damsels are very territorial so it really didn't make any sense to me. 



> by green goby im guessing the dragonet?


Yes



> you also want 3 anems which are inverts by the way but i suggest not getting one until the tanks been going steady for about a year.


Exactly. I want to take this slow, however I thought it might be important to list everything I'd like in the end (12-18 months down the road)



> i do suggest looking into glass-holes for an overflow, thats what i would do personally.


Do you mean a whole new aquarium thats marine ready? The aquarium I'm getting the deal on has tempered glass on the bottom (I'm not sure about the sides though). Should I just forget that one and find something totally different that has holes predrilled?



> you may be better off with 2 slightly smaller heaters then rather 1 large one too.


Yeah, I realized that last night. Maybe one in the sump and another in the tank. I also just figured I'm going to go with all sand too. About 4-5 inches.

Thanks a ton for the input. I'm still learning a ton, but everyone has to start somewhere I guess.


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

denrgb said:


> We also want to cure our own live rock first to save a little bit of money.


Even better idea... buy dry rock from Marco Rocks The finest aquarium rock available, base rock, live rock, reef rock, marco rock, reef tank saltwater fish, live corals, Marco rocks, Fiji live rock, Tonga Live rock and save a TON of money. A lot of us on this site have used their Fiji and/or Key Largo dry rock with great success. For ideas on how this works, check out my 180 build: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/saltwater-fish-pictures-videos/pasfurs-180-fowlr-build-21979/ 



> 2 Domino Damsels


I can't recall this coming up here before, but to everyone reading this... beware! Domino Damsels of unbelievably aggressive and grow extremely fast. This is a fish suitable for very few situations.

The Blue Damsels are rather aggressive in their own right. If you are fixed on Damsels, the Yellow Tails are somewhat more passive and would be a better choice.



> I know both tangs might be aggressive with each other, however it being a decent size tank I'm willing to go for it if I get them in at the same time while they are young.


I doubt you will have a problem, given that they are two different Genus of Tangs. I would suggest adding the Blue Hippo before adding the Yellow Tang.



> Live sand (I want to keep it sand on top. Would it be wise or dumb to put a layer of crushed coral underneath the layer of sand. If not, what about a mixture of the two?)


I would suggest a 4'' minimum to 6'' maximum depth of aragonite sand. It doesn't have to be live when you buy it, because it will quickly populate with microfauna such as amphipods and copepods.



> Q-tank:
> 20g long
> Whisper EX30
> Standard heater
> .


Good decision. Glad to see you will be using a Q tank.



denrgb said:


> Well I'm stuck on a sump/refugium still. Not too many out there that will fit the skimmer I want (ASM G-2). Or I could find another skimmer.


It was mentioned that the Marineland skimmer would fit nicely. I agree and it is an adequate replacement to the ASM G2.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks for the tips Pasfer. The way you cured your rock is exactly how I'd like to do it. I LOVE your build. I'm jealous of that tank. It's pretty much exactly what I want to do first. Then after having that a while, throw some reefs in there and learn that part as well. 

I have been looking at more aquariums now. I REALLY like the corner flo you have. I'm thinking of doing a 125 reef ready like that instead of the 100g originally planned. It might be a few hundred more bucks, but I think it'll definitely be worth it. It seems really hard to find a drilled bottom with tempered glass (drilling first then tempering obviously). Does anyone know of anyplace that makes tanks like that? I really don't want to go acrylic, and I'd love a sapphire front, but it's not THAT important. 

I'm going to head out to a few LFSs this weekend and see what I can come up with, and see if I can find something better (along with the net). I like the idea of having 12 extra inches in the 125-180g (esp. with the blue tang if I decide to try it).


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Update:

After searching for what seemed like forever, I think I'm going to be happier with a different tank (ordering it this weekend). We are going to get a 125g 72"x18" reef ready (with two double bulkhead overflow on each corner, tempered bottom tank. (took me forever to find a drilled tempered (after drilled) RR tank.

Probably our Ro  

or this

The sump/fuge Yeah I COULD build my own, but I feel safer dealing with this for now till I get the hang of things. This being the first salt tank.

ASM G-2 Skimmer

Mag MD12 Water Pump (for sump)

Hydor Theo Heater (x2) 100W for the sump and a 300 for the tank, or a Hydor 100w for the sump and a Fluval E Series 300w for the tank. (wouldn't mind two heaters).

150 lbs of Key Largo rock, (curing it myself), 200-230ish lbs of sand from marco (4-6" of bed). All from Marco.

20-40 lbs of live rock from LFS or elsewhere (to start the cure)

2-3 Hydor powerheads. Not sure on the whole flow thing yet. Going to get the cured rock going first before going into gph on heads and all of that. Worst comes to worse, Ill throw extra powerheads into my water change/salt mix cans and get exactly what I need in the DT.

Sound good? Should I change anything? Suggestions? comments? We're getting there!


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

denrgb said:


> 150 lbs of Key Largo rock, (curing it myself)
> 
> 20-40 lbs of live rock from LFS or elsewhere (to start the cure)


I'm being picky here, but the language used in the saltwater hobby can get confusing, and the concept of "curing" live rock actually does not apply here. 

The curing of live rock refers to the process by which living things are allowed to die. When a rock is removed from the ocean, there are a lot of things on the rock which will not continue to live in an aquarium. This is why a new shipment of live rock at the LFS stinks so bad that you can tell the moment you walk in the door that new live rock has arrived. A good LFS will "cure" the rock by placing the live rock into a vat of saltwater, with a very good protein skimmer attached and water pump for circulation. 

This same concept of curing live rock may apply if you purchase rock that has been sitting in stagnant water, such as off ebay or on Craigs list. Often the rock has not been "used" in an active aquarium for many months or longer, and many things have died within the rock. This rock would also need to be cured.

In this particular thread dry rock is being used, which has no curing time. The rock is sold pre-cured, and with no living organisms in the rock. Nothing can die during shipment, so there is nothing to cure. In actuality, you are wanting to give the rock time to mature and become "live", which will happen in a few short weeks after exposure to live rock. The existing microfauna and bacteria in live rock will VERY quickly spread and populate the dry rock. In a matter of months you will not be able to determine which pieces of rock were originally dry or live, because all of the rock will at that point be "live" rock. 

So, just for clarification, you may never see an ammonia or nitrite reading in your tank. Bacteria already exist in the live rock, and by adding live stock slowly the bacteria will quickly spread to keep pace. In saltwater tanks this is a rather easy task to accomplish, because you will be going 3 or 4 weeks between live stock purchases, allowing time for quarantine.


----------



## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

www.glass-holes.com the reef ready tanks IMO take up an entire corner, if not 2 corners or the center of a tank depending where the massive overflow is placed. these are much smaller but involves you having to drill the tank. www.youtube.com has videos on drilling.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks for the clarification Pasfer. Now if I talk about it at the LFS I wont look like a total newb (even though I am).

*Update*:

Took a little drive to a few farther away LFSs this weekend to buy the aquarium, but decided not to just yet. A few people we talked to said that we should maybe consider getting a 180 for the bigger depth of the tank to help with the aquascaping and for more room if we decide on a Blue Hippo and or other tang (yellow or naso). Going to sleep on it (this thing just keeps getting bigger and more expensive). Decision time in the next couple of days. Months down the road, I don't want to find out I should have done this or that and regret something. However I'd like to get this thing set up and going before the snow starts falling.

Another question...We want to paint the back of the tank. Anyone know of a good type of paint to use? Something that might be better than typical spray paint.


----------



## kitten_penang (Mar 26, 2008)

goby's don' do really well in young tank but thats just IMO


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

denrgb said:


> Took a little drive to a few farther away LFSs this weekend to buy the aquarium, but decided not to just yet. A few people we talked to said that we should maybe consider getting a 180 for the bigger depth of the tank to help with the aquascaping and for more room if we decide on a Blue Hippo and or other tang (yellow or naso). Going to sleep on it (this thing just keeps getting bigger and more expensive). Decision time in the next couple of days. Months down the road, I don't want to find out I should have done this or that and regret something. However I'd like to get this thing set up and going before the snow starts falling.


Very wise advice. I debated between a 125 and a 180, but it took me about 2 seconds to make that decision. And if you want Tangs, the 180 will make a HUGE difference in your odds of success.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

After looking through tons and tons of lighting I found two that I like. 

AquaticLife Six Lamp T5 

and 

ATI Sun Power T5 

I'm leaning twords the Aquaticlife right now as I like the braces instead of the suspending lights. I also like the led moon lighting. The fact that I only have to buy one fixture and not 2 36" is another huge factor. Oh yeah, and the price.

Anyone have any other suggestions on a 72"x24" tank I might have missed?


----------



## pretzelsz (Jan 14, 2010)

Here is some low low budget lights(I have a 48 HO T5 with moonlights and love it) http://shop.aquatraders.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=72" The ones you posted are probably way better but this is another option if money is short. and they come with legs for the aquarium.


----------



## onefish2fish (Jul 22, 2008)

flat black spray paint will work great for the back of the tank. more light coats allowing each to dry then a few heavy ones. tape and newspaper on the rest of the tank you dont want paint on.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Thanks onefish. I kind of figured, but I talked to one guy and he said use appliance paint. I'm sure it's not much better, but I just wanted someone else's opinion/experience JUST in case. Last thing I need is paint peeling off the back later on.

Still haven't decided on lighting. Hoping I figure it out soon, it's killin me.


----------



## denrgb (Sep 14, 2010)

Well I ordered the tank, stand and plumbing today (180G with corner overflows). Should be here in 7-10 days. They are even delivering it to me (thank god). I really didn't want to deal with getting a 350 lbd tank home. I think it looks almost exactly like yours Pasfer. Pics when it gets here!

I also found someone that is going to help me build a 35 gal sump for it cheap. That should be done as soon as the acrylic comes in. 

Lighting, pumps and powerheads are my only issue right now. Think I'll go with the Mag, one of the HO fixtures I linked above, and 2 Koralias with the controller.

Marco is out of Fiji again. I guess I'll wait till its back in stock and order it then.  Who knows when that will be.

Q-tank is going to get set up next week. However, I may delay it and get an acrylic one. I heard certain medicine can get into the silicone of a glass tank and get released later. I don't know how much of a problem if at all something like that would be, or if its even true. Everyone has glass Q-tanks and I don't hear of anyone having problems. I would like to put frags in there at certain points though later on. I have to research that a bit more.


----------



## Pasfur (Mar 29, 2008)

denrgb said:


> Marco is out of Fiji again. I guess I'll wait till its back in stock and order it then.  Who knows when that will be.


Marco is almost always out of Fiji. The Key Largo is equally impressive rock and readily available.


----------

