# Question about "Quick Cure"



## GwenInNM (Feb 2, 2011)

Found a couple ich spots on both of my new female GBR. Male shows no signs. LFS recommended Quick Cure, and to use the dosage for tetras (which is 1 drop per 2 gallons). I started it on Sunday, dosed again on Monday. Only see one spot as of last night, probably by this afternoon there won't be any. Light is off now, too early to check on them 

Directions just say to stop when symptoms are gone. Should I just treat for the 48 hours? Should I treat one more day and than do a wc?

I wish the package had more specific directions. I know that with ich, there is a stage where it's not suceptible to treatment, right?

Thanks for advise from anyone who has used this stuff. I have live plants, and just didn't want to do the salt thing. I did move my 2 ammano shrimp to another tank. 

Gwen


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

GwenInNM said:


> Found a couple ich spots on both of my new female GBR. Male shows no signs. LFS recommended Quick Cure, and to use the dosage for tetras (which is 1 drop per 2 gallons). I started it on Sunday, dosed again on Monday. Only see one spot as of last night, probably by this afternoon there won't be any. Light is off now, too early to check on them
> 
> Directions just say to stop when symptoms are gone. Should I just treat for the 48 hours? Should I treat one more day and than do a wc?
> 
> ...


Is all I have ever used for ICH and mild fungus.
Treat at half dose for two days, then perform water change and wait to see if parasite returns.
Recently used it on cardinal tetra's and cherry shrimp were also in the tank.
At half dose,,they are still kicking three weeks later.(fish and shrimp)


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## GwenInNM (Feb 2, 2011)

1077 said:


> Is all I have ever used for ICH and mild fungus.
> Treat at half dose for two days, then perform water change and wait to see if parasite returns.
> Recently used it on cardinal tetra's and cherry shrimp were also in the tank.
> At half dose,,they are still kicking three weeks later.(fish and shrimp)



Okay, thanks. That means since I've done two days, I won't treat today, but I'll do a water change tomorrow. 
Let em "soak" one more day  I do have Cardinal tetras in the tank too. They have no spots. That sure is a quick cure - no pun intended 

Gwen


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## afremont (Nov 17, 2011)

You can't really kill ick when it's attached to the fish, this is called a trophont. It's entrenched below the fish's skin so it's impossible to kill. As soon as the trophonts detach to become a cyst in the substrate, the quickcure will make short work of them. They are called tomonts at that stage. When the cyst "hatches", dozens or even hundreds of theronts swim around looking for a fish. This is why ich is so bad in the tank vs. in nature. In nature, the free swimmers are extremely unlikely to find any fish, much less the same one. They only have two days to find a fish or die trying. 

On fish that can take it by cranking the temp to 86F, free swimming ich theronts will not be able to attach to a fish. At 89F, they simply die from the heat. If fish can take the heat, the best way to end ich in one cycle is heat and a bit of salt. I believe that the salt makes it tougher to attach to the fish since the slime coat thickens.


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## GwenInNM (Feb 2, 2011)

afremont said:


> You can't really kill ick when it's attached to the fish, this is called a trophont. It's entrenched below the fish's skin so it's impossible to kill. As soon as the trophonts detach to become a cyst in the substrate, the quickcure will make short work of them. They are called tomonts at that stage. When the cyst "hatches", dozens or even hundreds of theronts swim around looking for a fish. This is why ich is so bad in the tank vs. in nature. In nature, the free swimmers are extremely unlikely to find any fish, much less the same one. They only have two days to find a fish or die trying.
> 
> On fish that can take it by cranking the temp to 86F, free swimming ich theronts will not be able to attach to a fish. At 89F, they simply die from the heat. If fish can take the heat, the best way to end ich in one cycle is heat and a bit of salt. I believe that the salt makes it tougher to attach to the fish since the slime coat thickens.



So, here's my dilemma. I came home, and do see spots still on one of the fish, so I dosed the tank again (3rd time) and should be doing a weekly water change today. Figure I can wait another day, even till Thursday if I had to, but my nitrates are at 5ppm, which I usually only have 0 nitrates, but I've been feeding more than normal too. Want to ensure the smaller female is getting enough food. 

So, if I still see spots tomorrow, do you think I should go ahead and do a 50% wc, and then treat the tank again? It says to treat until there are no more "symptoms". I have the heat at 86, but these fish can tolerate more, so I'll turn it up slowly tonight. I really don't want to use salt, because I have live plants. My MTS are still okay, but I hear they will likely die off too. I see them on the glass now, which normally I don't see them till lights go off, so maybe they aren't doing so well. :-? Thanks!!

Gwen


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## 1077 (Apr 16, 2008)

GwenInNM said:


> So, here's my dilemma. I came home, and do see spots still on one of the fish, so I dosed the tank again (3rd time) and should be doing a weekly water change today. Figure I can wait another day, even till Thursday if I had to, but my nitrates are at 5ppm, which I usually only have 0 nitrates, but I've been feeding more than normal too. Want to ensure the smaller female is getting enough food.
> 
> So, if I still see spots tomorrow, do you think I should go ahead and do a 50% wc, and then treat the tank again? It says to treat until there are no more "symptoms". I have the heat at 86, but these fish can tolerate more, so I'll turn it up slowly tonight. I really don't want to use salt, because I have live plants. My MTS are still okay, but I hear they will likely die off too. I see them on the glass now, which normally I don't see them till lights go off, so maybe they aren't doing so well. :-? Thanks!!
> 
> Gwen


Have only ever dosed the way I mentioned. 
Half dose for two day's,water change,half dose for two day's,water change.
I do it this way cause med can begin to affect biological filter, but perhaps in planted tank,,this may not be issue.
Still ,,water changes have always been my friend when in doubt.


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## BobtheSnail (Oct 6, 2011)

I've used that stuff in the past and it didn't work at all for me. I ended up just giving up on it and spent my time and money making the tank more stable for the fish and, finally, all of the fish recovered, and have been ich-free for a few months now.


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## jeaninel (Aug 24, 2007)

Gwen, I would continue to treat for at least 3-4 days after you no longer see spots on the fish. As Afremont stated the ick can't be killed while it's on the fish. Once the trophonts fall off the fish into the gravel they hatch after a few days and the free swimming parasite can then be killed by the meds. Continue to dose and do water changes making sure to vacuum the gravel. I've always had good results using Quick Cure. You just have to make sure to dose long enough along with extra water changes/gravel vacs.


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## GwenInNM (Feb 2, 2011)

jeaninel said:


> Gwen, I would continue to treat for at least 3-4 days after you no longer see spots on the fish. As Afremont stated the ick can't be killed while it's on the fish. Once the trophonts fall off the fish into the gravel they hatch after a few days and the free swimming parasite can then be killed by the meds. Continue to dose and do water changes making sure to vacuum the gravel. I've always had good results using Quick Cure. You just have to make sure to dose long enough along with extra water changes/gravel vacs.


Thanks much! I was going to do a water change yesterday (it's due), but still see a couple spots, now on the Cardinals  So I just took out a small amount of water and did re-dose. I'll do a big water change today and re-dose. I'm "cheap" with my water changes, because I have to buy the water, so I have the low ph of 6.3 :-D

I've never had ich, I keep my water parameters very good, doing weekly water change. It was one of the new females, and she must have gotten it from stress. She is not picked on by any means "terribly", but I do see that the male will frequently chase her over to the other side of the tank. From what I know about these fish, a certain amount of that is normal, but I do feel bad about this for her. She does come right back out, and is very confident/brave, whatever. I really like her attitude, and hate to get rid of her, but I'll have to continue to watch how the 3 do together. 

Gwen


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## fish monger (Dec 29, 2011)

Does anybody remember the old Nox Ick ? You'd raise the temperature to 82, 1 drop per gallon and zap. The ick was gone.


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## fish monger (Dec 29, 2011)

Could be wrong, but I think the water changes are primarily for preparing for the next dose. I'm using Tetra Ick Guard. The directions say to do a 25% water change before any new treatment. Other than that, it makes no mention of water changes.


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## GwenInNM (Feb 2, 2011)

fish monger said:


> Could be wrong, but I think the water changes are primarily for preparing for the next dose. I'm using Tetra Ick Guard. The directions say to do a 25% water change before any new treatment. Other than that, it makes no mention of water changes.



This brand says to "check water parameters before you begin". Making sure they are within acceptable range. After that it's just add the drops daily until all fish show no signs. The amazing thing is I bought a lot of java moss, which came with many tiny baby RCS. I've figured by now, they are either all eaten, or would have died with the treatment.

I disturbed the moss, and ended up seeing tiny shrimp, alive and well in my bucket water. I saved them, but didn't expect that :-D So, this treatment isn't as "lethal" as the directions say about removing inverts.

I'm still treating the tank, to go a few more days after the spots are gone, per advise given here. 

Gwen


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